Month: December 2022

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News

Chablis Commission Pleased with 2022 Harvest

Chablis grand cru vineyard

While Chablis declared 2021 to be a ‘complicated’ year, 2022 has proven to be a real contrast, with the Chablis Commission having declared this year’s harvest to be a healthier and overall higher-yielding one.

Paul Espitalié – president of the Chablis Commission – commented that 2022 was a much more dynamic vintage when compared to 2021, as the years before it had ushered in ‘challenges for winemakers in Chablis with the changing and unpredictable climate’.

Many winegrowers in Chablis rejoiced after the harvest this year as yields were plentiful and almost up to the maximum amount permitted. Because of this, the commission is hopeful that the region will be able to make up some lost ground with regards to volumes for export markets, where the UK still holds the top spot.

Espitalié commented that: ‘The UK continues to be our most important export market and we believe a key element to the continuing success of Chablis wines’. He also added that one of the commission’s main focuses is to increase consumer awareness of both Petit Chablis and Chablis wines.

‘These appellations have just as much to offer the market, particularly in the current financial climate in terms of offering great value wines,’ he said.

The 2022 harvest’s wines will be available in the UK shortly. Over the course of a year, a total of 3.8 million bottles were sold in the UK in 2021 – 2022.

Looking ahead, 17% of all Chablis vineyards are currently 100% organic and the subregion is also on track to hit the Burgundy-wide target of becoming carbon neutral by 2035. The aim of these initiatives is to improve the vineyards’ health and protect the local industry for the years to come.

Read more about the potential of Burgundy’s 2022 harvest here.

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Report

Insights from leading Bordeaux fine wine producers

Sunny Saint Emilion vineyard

Our Insights from leading Bordeaux fine wine producers report is now available to download. This report is the result of 32 face-to-face interviews WineCap conducted in 2022 with some of Bordeaux’s leading châteaux owners, winemakers and senior representatives. 

While global stock and bond markets have had a turbulent year, the fine wine sector has continued to perform strongly. Thanks to its low correlation with mainstream asset classes and defensive characteristics, fine wine is attracting a wider investor audience.

WineCap recently undertook research among leading fine wine producers responsible for many of the highest quality vineyards in Bordeaux. We are delighted to share some key findings, which include, wine producers’ oldest vintage and favourite year, their views on new permitted grape varieties and how they are coping with challenges such as climate change.

Despite the perception that older vintages are more desirable, it’s fascinating to find that most leading Bordeaux producers prefer wines from the last decade. Find out which vintages they mention in particular in this report. 

While six new grape varieties are now permitted to be planted in Bordeaux, to help producers adapt to climate change, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the dominant grape variety, representing 32% of the total 1,668 hectares in the region. 

A key priority for the wine producers we interviewed is to maintain the same volume to all their existing customers, while attempting to supply as much as possible to new ones. While some producers have acquired adjacent land to expand production volumes to meet growing demand, volumes can vary dramatically depending on the quality of the harvest. Managing demand expectations is therefore a key challenge and calls for a flexible approach on the part of the customer.

Download our new report to discover key insights from one of the world’s top fine wine regions.

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News

Champagne Producers Fight Against Zero Herbicide U-Turn

stormy skies over champagne vineyard

Winemakers in Champagne have written an open letter – published in Le Monde on the 6th of December – that voiced their opposition to the professional bodies’ reneging on a commitment to phaze out the use of all chemical herbicides in the region by 2025.

The date was significant: it was the day of the Annual General Meeting of the Association Viticole Champenoise (AVC). At the AGM, both the Syndicat General des Vignerons (SGV) and the Union des Maisons de Champagne (UMC) had officially announced – five years previously – that herbicides would be banned.

Jean-Marie Barillère, former president of the UMC, commented in 2018: ‘There are only two possible outcomes: either we move forwards or we are forced to move, with all the risks the latter entails in ecological terms, in terms of image and therefore in economic terms for our industry and our businesses. I prefer to forge a path towards a virtuous Champagne, rather than keep dwelling on the past.’

Maxime Toubart, president of the Syndicat General des Vignerons, also said at the 2018 AGM: ‘Our objective is, in a few years’ time, to be able to talk about a 100% sustainable Champagne, that takes its commitments seriously and can be held up as an example, and which can proudly proclaim: zero herbicides.’

Despite previous assurances, in 2022, Toubart refused to add the zero-herbicide policy to the cahier des charges: the Champagne appellation’s rulebook. Because of this, the dispute between the SGV, the Association Biologique Champenoise (ACB) and a union of organic growers, has only gained momentum.

President of the ACB, Jérôme Bourgeois, commented: ‘It is unacceptable that a prestigious appellation like Champagne can even imagine walking back a core environmental promise made five years ago, especially in today’s ecological climate.’

While the main Champagne body (the CIVC) didn’t comment on the open letter at the 2022 Annual General Meeting, David Châtillon – UMC president – did speak about the importance of preserving ‘Champagne’s perceived image’. Promisingly, he also made it clear that the Champagne region is committed to its zero-herbicide pledge, although no deadline was given.

In their address, Toubert added that ‘Champagne was greener than it ever had been before.’ This was supported by Arnaud Descotes, the CIVC’s technical director, who highlighted that the new herbicide law brought in last year has restricted the number of treatments permitted, as well as which herbicides are allowed.

Whether the initial deadline to rule out herbicides by 2025 will be met remains to be seen. However, one thing is for sure, those who signed the open letter are still keeping up the pressure: ‘We, Champagne winegrowers, Champagne houses and members of cooperatives, call upon the SGV and the UMC to continue implementing their progress strategy by respecting the deadline of ‘Zero Herbicides by 2025’, embracing an effective and sustainable commitment of our sector, in the interests of all stakeholders in the Champagne region and our fellow citizens.’

Read more recent Champagne news: Moët Hennessy’s Champagne Stocks Running Low.

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News

Christie’s London Auction Reaches Over £2.12 million

Christies flag hanging outside building

Christie’s recent Finest and Rarest Wines & Spirits sale that took place in London on the 1st and 2nd of December reached over £2.12 million at auction. Lots included anniversary collections from Champagne Philipponnat and California’s Ridge Vineyards, as well as six bottles of Pétrus 2000.

The top lot was made up of six bottles of Pétrus 2000 and fetched an impressive £30,000, which was the same value as 12 bottles of Le Pin 2018. Representing Burgundy, six magnums of Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares 2005 went for £25,000.

Other notable wine highlights in the sale included some very special lots unearthed from King’s College Cambridge’s cellars: six bottles of Château Lafite-Rothschild 1959 that raised £20,000, 12 bottles of Taylor 1948 Port that went for £11,875 and six bottles of Croft 1945 that sold for £6,875.

The London sale celebrated Ridge Vineyards’ 60th anniversary. The collection comprised wines from each of its six decades and raised a total of £117,075. Mixed lots consisted of bottles, magnums and large formats of the leading Napa producer’s most exclusive wines, offered straight from its cellars. The star expression was undoubtedly nine magnums of Ridge Monte Bello that sold for £7,500.

Another key milestone the sale paid honour to was the 500th year anniversary since April de Philipponnat arrived in Champagne in 1522. The Champagne house presented 11 lots direct from its cellars and all of them sold, raising a total of £13,763. Particular highlights included three magnums of Clos des Goisses L.V. 1996.

A spokesperson from Christie’s commented that buyers from 22 countries, across five continents took part in the auction. Interestingly, millennial collectors were well represented, with 46% of new registrants being part of this demographic.

Read more about the recent Hospices de Beaune Burgundy auction here.

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News

2020 Château Mouton Rothschild Label Unveiled

Painting on 2020 Mouton Rothschild label

Château Mouton Rothschild has unveiled its 2020 label by Scottish artist Peter Doig. The renowned figurative painter settled in Trinidad in 2002 and divides his time between there and Scotland. Doig is the first British artist to have been commissioned to paint this leading Bordeaux château’s label since Lucien Freud in 2006. Other famous British contributors include (formerly) Prince Charles in 2004 and Francis Bacon in 1990. 

The initiative to invite an artist to adorn the Château Mouton Rothschild bottle label with a painting first began in 1924 with the poster artist Jean Carlu. 

The 2020 label is of a dreamlike scene showing red grapes growing under the light of a full moon with workers in the vineyard. Doig has drawn parallels with other renowned artists such as van Gogh, Bacon and Cézanne who have all painted farm or vineyard workers. The main figure in the centre of the piece – Emheyo Bhabba – is one of Doig’s close connections and muses. A Trinidadian cuatro player, Emheyo has previously performed in one of the artist’s previous exhibitions in Paris using this four string guitar.

‘The painting shows something of what goes on behind the scenes in the production of wine, what happens offstage, as it were’, commented Doig. ‘It’s a sort of ode to workers, to all those involved at the various stages of making a wine before it’s finally bottled. It’s a dream with a romantic streak, as if someone spontaneously decided to sing in the vines. It’s a moment of poetry, where you can take your time. It’s neither really day nor really night, but rather something in between, between waking and sleeping. It is possible to see it as a progression, a dream journey in the world of the harvest.’

Commenting on this new label, Julien Beaumarchais de Rothschild said: ‘We wanted an artist who uses canvas and pictorial material to express figurative subjects.’ ‘Unrivalled as a colourist, Peter Doig focuses entirely on painting and has become one of his generation’s foremost exponents of the discipline, holding exhibitions all over the world. There is something very special about his technique and his universe that sets them apart in contemporary figurative art. His subjects are very varied, his painting resists any classification: he has succeeded in creating his own, inimitable world.’

Take a closer look at the 2020 label and at previous years’ here.