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Small but Exceptional Port Vintage Expected in the Douro

As the Port producing region of the Douro has just begun grape harvesting, producers are expecting dramatically reduced yields this vintage due to the impact of extreme heat and drought conditions that have characterised 2022. 

This year’s rainfall is more than 70% lower than the 30-year average and follows on from three years of below-average rainfall. Producers in the region are becoming increasingly concerned about this series of drier years. They are most worried about their younger vines as they are more susceptible to drought and hydric stress as the roots don’t reach as far down into the ground as those of older, established vines.

Less rainfall means reduced grape yields which in turn means higher production costs for winemakers at a time where there are other inflationary pressures at play. 

Another factor that has exacerbated the lack of rain is the combination of heat and wind. CEO at Taylor Fladgate, Adrian Bridge, commented that ‘the wind normally picks up at 6pm, but at 2pm it has been whistling up the (Douro) valley – having a hairdrier effect on the vines, so the grapes are shrinking’. He added that this has contributed to the grapes having very thick skins this year and a lot more grapes will be required to make the same quantity of Port.

‘I believe that this is going to be one of the lowest yielding harvests ever in the Douro,’ commented former chairman of Symington Family Estates, Paul Symington

However, while producers will have to wait over the coming weeks to see just how much wine it will be possible to make, there’s a sense of optimism among the Douro winemakers that this year’s vintage will turn out to be a small but exceptional one. 

Christian Seely, managing director at Quinta do Noval, commented that: ‘The occasional hot dry year is not a disaster and can produce remarkable, memorable wines: ‘45 and ‘17 had that sort of profile and both of them produced some of the most remarkable vintage Ports ever produced – and in 2017, remarkable red wines too, to my surprise’.

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Heatwave Provokes Bordeaux Fires

The UK recorded some of the highest temperatures on record at over 40°C on the 20th of July and fires broke out across England. For the WineCap team that was in Bordeaux at the time, it was an all too familiar scene.

France, like other countries on the continent, has endured sweltering temperatures in recent weeks. The combination of the mercury rising and the tinder-dry ground have provided the perfect conditions for forest fires which have ravaged large parts of South and South-West France since the 12th of July. Around Bordeaux, over 6,500 hectares have already been burnt in the Landiras commune and over 3,000 have been scorched in La Teste de Buch according to the Copernicus website.

While no vineyards have been directly affected yet, the fires have come too close for comfort for some producers. Loic Pasquet, owner of Liber Pater, based in the previously mentioned Landiras commune just North-West of Sauternes, revealed that a fire had come almost within 500m of his vines. Fortunately, it has now been fought back to 7km away.

Some 2,000 firemen and a combination of sea planes and water bombers have been battling the blazes in the region. This, combined with temperatures dropping from 41°C to ten degrees cooler, has provided a much needed respite and the forces are currently optimistic that they will be able to contain the fires unless circumstances change.        

Although Bordeaux has experienced large scale fires before – in 1949 and 1989 – none have been as severe as these. For wine lovers, the risk of fires and smoke taint affecting wineries and grapes is something that they’ll probably have read about most with California wines. In 2020, Napa’s ‘Glass Fire’ caused wineries Cain, Newton and Behrens Family on Spring Mountain to suffer complete losses.

It’s too early to tell in Bordeaux if smoke taint has affected grapes and therefore the 2022 vintage. Producers who think their vineyards may have come into contact with the smoke are being urged to take samples and perform tests. The mood in Bordeaux remains optimistic, but with the August and September months still to go before harvest, we’re sure many producers are keeping everything crossed.