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Bordeaux | Regional Report

Bordeaux has long been the most important fine wine region in the world. Its rich heritage, high-quality production, and unmatched ability to cultivate globally-recognised brands have all cemented its position at the pinnacle of the fine wine world. Already in 1787, Thomas Jefferson noted the collectible potential of the region’s top wines.

Bordeaux is, thus, naturally the cornerstone of the wine investment market as we know it today. At its peak in 2010, Bordeaux accounted for a staggering 96% of the fine wine market by value. The First Growths – Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild – drove the lion’s share of that dominance.

Despite the recent broadening of the market, Bordeaux remains the most influential player, with its performance often setting the tone for global fine wine investment.

Our Bordeaux Report delves into the fundamentals of this fascinating region, including the evolution of its investment market, historic performance, and key players.

Discover more about:

  • The First Growths and their second wines
  • En Primeur 
  • Bordeaux’s key appellations
  • Bordeaux’s future in a diversified market
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Understanding Burgundy’s regional divisions

Burgundy – a region synonymous with some of the world’s finest wines – is a patchwork of complexity. Its intricate divisions span geography, quality, ownership, and production. Among these, the regional distinctions are perhaps the most foundational, forming the backbone of Burgundy’s identity as the most expensive fine wine region in the world. Today, we explore the five distinct regions of Burgundy, each offering a unique contribution to the region’s storied reputation.

Regional divisions

Burgundy is divided into four contiguous regions and one satellite. Although Beaujolais is geographically sometimes considered part of Burgundy, administratively it forms part of the Rhône region. The total area is around 30,000 hectares under vine, of which more than 80% is subject to some form of AOC classification. From this, Burgundy produces around one quarter of the volume of wine made in Bordeaux’s commensurate with a significantly smaller area under vine.

Chablis (Satellite)

The historic town of Chablis is located a mere two hours from Paris. The town and its historic vineyards live up to their reputation of creating a high calibre of Chardonnay.

Whether it is the limestone soil, the reticence towards oak ageing or the mineral quality that make the wines from the region so unique, the result is the same: the wines of Chablis are like no other. The area lay underneath a vast tropical sea some 200 million years ago that slowly transformed the seabed into limestone soils. Absorbing deposits of fossilised marine life — particularly seashells — those remnants live on in the rich, mineralised soil that is the region’s premier advantage.

Chablis is divided into four categories of excellence. In descending order, they are: Chablis Grand Cru, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis and Petit Chablis. Grand Cru production is small and elusive; only seven ‘climats’ running parallel to the Serein River are elevated to Grand Cru status. These wines have low production and high price tags. In contrast to Grand Cru’s seven ‘climats’, Premier Cru claims 40 vineyards, including the highly desirable Vaillons, Montmains, Fourchaume and Vaulorent sites. Chablis is the most predominant appellation, with Petit Chablis, while still being praiseworthy, ranking last among the four.

Côte de Nuits

The Côte de Nuits is home to many of the greatest names in Burgundy wine. Situated in the Northern part of the Côte d’Or, it produces largely red wines and is a true paradise for Pinot Noir, accommodating a tremendous number of legendary Grand Crus. The terrain is essentially a narrow strip of hillside, sometimes just 200m wide, and the Grand Crus that adorn it are some of the smallest appellations in France.

The region has a rich history. As far back as the third century AD, viticulture has featured in the Côte de Nuits thanks to the Romans. Though a challenging terroir to manage, the wines of the area were the envy of the Roman Empire. Later on, under the care of the Benedictine and then Cistercian orders, the renown of the wines made famous the concept of unique terroir and its impact on expression. In the 17th century, much of the area came under ownership through the outlandish bidding wars of the bourgeoisie, but the French Revolution saw it sequestered and sold to independent ownership.

Its Grand Cru holdings include such internationally revered appellations as Chambertin, Clos Saint Denis, Clos de Vougeot, Échézeaux, Romanée-Conti and La Tâche to name just a few, and the Premier Cru holdings are also high-quality.

Côte de Beaune

The Côte de Beaune is situated around the town of Beaune and produces both white and red wines. Beaune, the second-largest town in the Côte d’Or, has been so closely associated with Burgundy’s wines that, for a time and well before the 1936 appellation was granted, all wines from this region were simply called ‘Beaune wines’. Because it is also based in the geographical heart of the wine trade industry, the area is one of the diverse few that offers a mix of farming and trade. Most of the activity takes place on the western side of Beaune as this is where the vineyards are located.

The appellation has a high proportion of Premier Cru plots, with over 40 ‘climats’ that stretch from north to south, uninterrupted by commerce or residential development. The wines from Beaune are predominantly red, but the trend towards Chardonnay has sparked a new increase in white wine production.

Côte Chalonnaise

Producing both ruby reds and graceful whites, Côte Chalonnaise lies to the south of the Côte de Beaune. A landscape punctuated by hills with southeast facing slopes, hot summers and generally dry weather sees grapes develop with excellent phenolic ripeness. Sharing similar soils to the Côte de Beaune, it is often considered a natural extension of the region.

Vines planted here are predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but are also home to the Aligoté grape in select areas. The reds are clean and firm and, though austere in their youth, will handle ageing well. Whites are clear and floral with fleshy and lively bodies.

Côte Chalonnaise is home to such celebrated appellations as Montagny, Givry, Mercurey and Rully. Sporting a good number of Premier Cru ‘climats’ among them, these areas have a number of poignant historical claims, including that Givry’s wines were the favourites of the French King Henri IV. In the early 19th century, négociants with vines in Mercurey and Rully hosted a man from the Champagne region. Shortly after, sparkling white wines were produced and Crémant de Bourgogne was born.

Mâcconais

Mâcconais is the southernmost of the five wine-producing regions of Burgundy. It is a pastoral rolling landscape nestled between two valleys. With the Grosne to the West and the Saône to the East, it is home to stony outcrops of monumental proportions.

Historically speaking, the Mâcconais was shaped by its religious significance, with the Benedictine tradition of prayer and labour encouraging the monks of the Abbey of Cluny to cultivate vineyards in 909. Thanks to the wealth generated by these vineyards, which stretched further north than the Abbey’s southern location, another abbey, the abbey of Cîteaux, was later founded in 1098. 

80% of the vines in the Mâcconais are planted as Chardonnay, with the remainder being largely Gamay and, to a much smaller extent, Pinot Noir. With its southern facing aspects it produces wines of tremendously rich and aromatic character and is home to such renowned appellations as Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé. 

Looking for more? Read our Burgundy Regional Report, which delves into the fundamentals of this fascinating region and the development of its investment market. 

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Burgundy En Primeur 2023 and the current market

  • The 2023 Burgundy vintage is bountiful but heterogeneous in quality.
  • Careful selection of reputable domains and top producers is necessary when making purchasing decisions.
  • In the secondary market, Burgundy prices have fallen 15.2% in the last year.

The Burgundy En Primeur 2023 campaign brings a vintage full of potential and expectations: potential due to the quality but mostly quantity of the vintage in a region defined by scarcity, and expectations for reduced pricing given producers’ desire to sell.

This article provides an overview of the 2023 Burgundy vintage and the market environment that surrounds its launch. 

A heterogeneous but plentiful vintage

The 2023 Burgundy vintage first made news for its volume, which surpassed the region’s average production levels by 30%. Despite heat, drought and flooding challenges, the overall perception is of success – large quantities and above-average quality. Sarah Marsh MW summed it up: ‘The 2023 Burgundy was a bounteous but heterogenous vintage in which the white wines outshone the reds’. 

2023 saw a late-season heat spike that concentrated the fruit. Chardonnay benefited from earlier harvests before extreme heat, while Pinot Noir avoided dilution concerns and achieved natural alcohol levels of 13 – 13.5%. 

The vintage’s overall quality depended heavily on producer management, such as controlling yields for reds and maintaining freshness and acidity in whites. In comparison to the richer, more consistent 2022 vintage, the 2023s demonstrate greater precision, transparency and approachability. Growers and critics have suggested that the 2022/23 might mirror the 2015/16 or 2009/10 pairs.  

The highlights include Bonnes Mares, which stood out for its opulence and structure, with the best examples from Domaine de la Vougeraie and Domaine Dujac. For whites, cooler and mineral-driven sites like Puligny Caillerets and Meursault Perrières were particularly compelling, showcasing precision and vibrancy. Producers like Comte de Vogue, Jean Chartron, and Violot-Guillemard have garnered critical praise. 

Market context

The Burgundy En Primeur 2023 campaign unfolds against a backdrop of shifting market dynamics. Following a robust 2022 vintage and a successful campaign, producers are navigating a softened market. Burgundy prices have fallen 15.2% in the past year, more than any other fine wine region.

Burgundy 150 index

Additionally, seven Burgundies dropped from the list of the most 100 most powerful brands in the world in 2024. Still, Burgundy continues to dominate the list, cementing its place as a powerhouse in the global fine wine market. The region’s market share also remains strong, hovering around 25% and sometimes reaching 30%.

Pricing strategies

As producers seek to gather momentum with the 2023 vintage, some are keeping stable pricing levels or even lowering prices. The sizable 2023 yields stand in contrast to the tiny harvests anticipated in 2024, further amplifying the value proposition of the current release.

The 2023 vintage can thus represent a strategic opportunity. Careful selection – looking both at quality and value compared to older vintages – will be necessary, especially as the downward market trend offers a window to secure high-quality Burgundy wines at more accessible price points. More and better priced stock from older vintages has become available, creating competition for the new releases. 

The current market dynamics, characterised by adjusted pricing and evolving consumer trends, create an intriguing context for the campaign. As Burgundy continues to adapt to market shifts and climatic challenges, its enduring prestige remains as compelling as ever.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today

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Fine wine vs crypto? History, volatility and market returns

  • Fine wine offers steady, long-term growth with controlled price fluctuations, while Bitcoin’s extreme volatility presents both high-risk and high-reward opportunities.
  • Fine wine’s centuries-old market is supported by scarcity, provenance, and established ecosystems, contrasting Bitcoin’s shorter, speculation-driven history.
  • Fine wine appeals to risk-averse investors seeking diversification, while Bitcoin caters to those pursuing rapid investments.

Bitcoin has recently captured investment interest as it surged past the $100,000 (£80,000) benchmark for the first time in December last year, up from $45,000 (£36,000) at the beginning of 2024. With its meteoric rise fuelled by regulatory approvals for cryptocurrency exchange-traded funds and mostly the results of the US presidential election, Bitcoin demonstrated its ability to deliver unparalleled gains. Yet, crypto remains a high-risk asset defined by dramatic volatility. From its genesis in 2009, Bitcoin has seen multiple boom-and-bust cycles, with price swings of over 50% in both directions within a single year not uncommon. 

By contrast, fine wine represents a markedly different asset class, appealing to those who prioritise stability and long-term appreciation. The fine wine market has a storied history spanning centuries, with values driven by scarcity, provenance, and global demand rather than speculative hype. While prices in the fine wine market can fluctuate, they tend to avoid the extreme volatility seen in cryptocurrencies. Instead, they enjoy steady growth that outpaces inflation and provides a reliable hedge against economic uncertainty.

Volatility

Bitcoin’s price chart tells a story of rapid ascents and precipitous falls. For example, its 2017 bull run saw prices climb from £800 ($1,000) to nearly £16,000 ($20,000) only to crash to £2,400 ($3,000) the following year. Similar patterns occurred in 2021 and again in 2024, leaving investors questioning when the next downturn might strike.

Fine wine, on the other hand, avoids such dramatic shifts. Prices typically rise or fall within a controlled range, supported by consistent demand from collectors and investors worldwide.

Historical context

Cryptocurrencies are a product of the digital age, with Bitcoin gaining widespread attention only over the past decade. Its rise has been driven by speculative interest, technological innovation, and the allure of decentralisation. However, its short history leaves it vulnerable to regulatory uncertainties, technological disruptions, and shifting investor sentiment.

Fine wine, conversely, boasts a legacy that stretches back centuries. Iconic regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Tuscany have long been synonymous with quality and value. Investments in fine wine are supported by an established ecosystem of producers, merchants, and auction houses. This historical grounding provides a level of security that new asset classes like cryptocurrency struggle to match.

Market performance

One of the defining features of fine wine as an investment is the importance of regional performance. For instance, Burgundy has risen 550% on average over the last twenty years, with some wines achieving returns of over 1,500%. 

The world of fine wine has its own higher risk and higher return investments but it also offers a range of reliable long-term performers. This is why building a fine wine portfolio requires expertise and careful curation. A well-diversified portfolio includes big brands but also undervalued wines and vintages from a variety of regions which can see their value rise based on demand, critic scores, age or other intrinsic factors. 

Liquidity: fast vs steady

Liquidity is another key difference between fine wine and crypto. Bitcoin can be bought and sold 24/7 on global exchanges, making it one of the most liquid investments available. However, this liquidity can exacerbate price swings, with significant moves often triggered by news events or changes in market sentiment.

Fine wine, while less liquid, offers a more controlled market environment. Secondary sales typically occur through investment companies and trading platforms, with prices reflecting a stable and growing investor base. This slower pace can be an advantage for investors seeking to avoid speculative bubbles.

Diversification and portfolio strategy

In today’s investment landscape, fine wine and cryptocurrency appeal to very different investor profiles. Bitcoin caters to those seeking high-risk, high-reward opportunities, while fine wine offers steady, long-term growth and diversification. Incorporating both into a portfolio can provide balance, but the emphasis should align with an investor’s risk tolerance and financial goals.

Fine wine also underscores the importance of expertise. A portfolio focused on iconic regions and proven vintages can deliver strong returns, with minimal exposure to the broader market’s ups and downs. As seen in the market of 2024, the best-performing wines relied on deep knowledge of regional trends and intrinsic dynamics.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The evolution of Bordeaux’s vineyard prices: what’s behind the price tag?

  • Vineyard prices in Pauillac have risen over 700% in the last 30 years.  
  • Sauternes has faced a 90% decline during the same period. 
  • Pomerol has significantly outpaced Saint-Émilion, partly due to its compact size and luxury appeal.

The American Association of Wine Economists has released data on the evolution of Bordeaux vineyard prices from 1991 to 2023. Over this period, Bordeaux has become the centrepiece of a thriving, regulated wine investment market.

Global demand for Bordeaux wines has fueled remarkable growth, with top estates achieving iconic status as luxury brands. A 2011 valuation revealed that over 50 of Bordeaux’s leading châteaux belong to the €50 million club, with a combined market value exceeding €15 billion.

In the past two decades, Bordeaux fine wine prices have risen by an average of 200%, accompanied by significant increases in vineyard prices in its most sought-after appellations.

This article delves into the shifting dynamics of Bordeaux’s wine industry, examining their impact on vineyard prices and the contrasting trajectories of key sub-regions like Pauillac, Sauternes, Pomerol, and Saint-Émilion.

 American Association of Wine Economists Bordeaux vineyard prices

Pauillac’s extraordinary growth

Pauillac’s vineyard prices have experienced extraordinary growth over the past three decades, surging by 700.6% from €374,700 per hectare in 1991 to €3 million in 2023. The region is home to the First Growths Lafite Rothschild, Latour, and Mouton Rothschild.

When compared to other regions, Pauillac’s relatively small size – spanning approximately 1,200 hectares under vine – is a key factor contributing to its high vineyard prices. This limited vineyard area, combined with the prestige of its châteaux, creates a scarcity effect that drives up demand and valuation. Despite its compact footprint, Pauillac has managed to consistently dominate the fine wine market.

The rise of Pauillac aligns with the global increase in demand for fine Bordeaux wines, particularly during the 2000s and early 2010s, when new markets like China became major consumers. However, this growth has slowed in recent years. This could stem from market saturation, with collectors shifting their attention to other Bordeaux appellations or entirely different regions such as Burgundy and Champagne. 

The decline of Sauternes

In stark contrast to Pauillac, Sauternes has suffered a decline, losing nearly 90% of its vineyard value since 1991. Once valued at €293,000 per hectare – higher than Saint-Émilion at the time – Sauternes vineyards are now priced at around €30,000 per hectare, according to AAWE. This fall can largely be attributed to waning consumer interest in sweet wines.

The production costs associated with Sauternes, which involve the labour-intensive process of harvesting botrytised (noble rot) grapes further compound the issue. While top producers like Château d’Yquem continue to uphold the region’s reputation, the broader market for Sauternes is facing challenges due to changing consumer preferences.

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion: a tale of two trajectories

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion present an interesting comparison, with Pomerol emerging as a high-growth luxury niche and Saint-Émilion maintaining steady performance. From 1991 to 2023, Pomerol vineyard prices rose by 213.4%, reaching €2 million per hectare, while Saint-Émilion saw only a modest 14.7% increase to €300,000 per hectare. These differences can be explained by several key factors.

  1. Size and scale

Saint-Émilion spans a vast 5,400 hectares, compared to Pomerol’s much smaller 800 hectares. This sheer scale means Saint-Émilion includes a wide range of producers, from elite châteaux like Cheval Blanc and Ausone to lesser-known estates producing more affordable wines. In contrast, Pomerol’s compact size results in a higher concentration of prestigious vineyards, with fewer smaller players to dilute its overall market perception.

  1. Classification systems

Saint-Émilion’s classification system – updated every decade – categorises its estates into tiers such as Premier Grand Cru Classé A and B, and Grand Cru Classé. However, the frequent use of the “Grand Cru” designation (applied to over 60% of the region’s wines) might work against it, and partly diminish the exclusivity of this title.

Conversely, Pomerol lacks any formal classification system, allowing individual estates like Pétrus and Le Pin to dominate through their reputations alone. This lack of stratification has paradoxically bolstered the region’s image as a luxury appellation. Its reputation as a source of small-production, Merlot-dominant wines has further cemented its status as a ‘cult’ appellation among collectors and investors. 

  1. Smaller players and price dilution

Saint-Émilion’s large number of smaller, lesser-known producers contributes to its lower average vineyard price. These producers often operate outside the Grand Cru Classé system, pulling down the overall valuation of the region. In Pomerol, the scarcity of vineyards and the dominance of high-profile estates create a ‘halo effect’ that supports consistently high valuations, even for lesser-known properties.

Implications for the wine investment market

The contrasting trajectories of Bordeaux’s appellations highlight the complexity of the fine wine investment market. Pauillac’s recent plateau demonstrates that even the most prestigious regions are not immune to market saturation, while Pomerol’s steady growth underscores the enduring appeal of scarcity and exclusivity. In contrast, Sauternes illustrates the vulnerability of regions reliant on shifting consumer preferences. However, renewed efforts by producers to embrace sustainability, innovation, and rebranding may help revive interest in sweet wines and mitigate some of these challenges.

Despite fluctuations, Bordeaux’s iconic estates and global reputation remain a cornerstone of the fine wine market. For investors and collectors, navigating the nuanced landscape of vineyard prices and evolving market dynamics will be crucial to securing long-term success in this ever-changing industry.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today