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The best-performing wines of H1 2025: the bright spots in a soft market

  • Fine wine prices continued to decline in H1 2025 against a challenging global economic backdrop. 
  • A small group of wines outpaced the broader market by a wide margin, with the best-performing wine rising over 36%.
  • In a recalibrating market, scarcity, selectivity, and substance will continue to define success.

The global fine wine market continued its cautious descent through the first half of 2025, extending a downward trend that began in earnest in late 2022. From Champagne to California, regional indices recorded further losses – a sobering contrast to the post-pandemic surge that peaked in September 2022. What followed has been nearly 18 months of persistent price softening.

Yet even in this declining market environment, select wines showed resilience and in some cases, delivered double-digit growth. A small group of wines outpaced the broader market by a wide margin, with the best-performing wine rising over 36% in H1 alone. These rare outliers were not driven by hype or thematic rotation, but by a return to fundamentals: scarcity, maturity, critical acclaim, and name recognition. In a soft market, selectivity became strategy, and quality, its own form of currency.

The macroeconomic backdrop: volatility returns

H1 2025 unfolded against a challenging global economic backdrop, with fine wine caught in the crosscurrents of:

Reignited trade tensions

The surprise announcement of 200% US tariffs on EU wine imports in March rattled the industry. While the final figure was scaled back to 20% and implementation delayed by 90 days, the initial shock had an immediate effect. US demand plummeted initially, and confidence took time to recover – despite evidence of resilient buying behaviour by Q2.

Subdued Asian demand 

In Asia, sentiment remained quiet. Many buyers – particularly in Hong Kong and mainland China – adopted a wait-and-see posture, citing political and market uncertainty. The result was lower volume and thinner trading conditions for key regions like Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne.

Monetary pressures impact

Persistent interest rate pressure globally has reduced the appeal of illiquid assets such as wine. With safer yields available in cash or bonds, some collectors have hesitated to commit fresh capital or have chosen to sell.

A tepid Bordeaux En Primeur campaign

The Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur campaign, already burdened by a slow market and a hesitant consumer base, failed to inspire broad demand. Pricing fatigue, underwhelming back-vintage performance, and merchant overstocking created difficult conditions even for well-scored wines.

Liv-ex indices reflected the climate:

    • Liv-ex 50 (tracking First Growth performance): -6% in H1, now back to 2016 levels.
    • Liv-ex 100 (Liv-ex benchmark index): -4.9% in H1, now back to 2020 levels.
    • Liv-ex 1000 (broadest market measure): -4.7% in H1, now back to 2020 levels.

Amid these headwinds, investment allocations required precise selection more than ever.

Regional performance – H1 2025

Though every major region ended H1 in negative territory, the magnitude of decline varied, offering insight into what categories still command investor attention and which ones may face longer-term repositioning.

best performing wine regions half 1 2025

The best-performing region: the Rhône

The Rhône 100 index emerged as the most defensive performer in H1, down just 2.5%. This may come as a surprise, given Rhône’s traditionally lower liquidity compared to Bordeaux or Burgundy. Yet in periods of risk aversion, the region’s combination of world-class producers (e.g. Jean Louis Chave, Guigal), lower pricing, critical appraisal, and hence good value for money have made it an increasingly attractive hunting ground for value-driven buyers.

Several Rhône wines appeared in the H1 top 10 performance list, including Chave’s Hermitage Rouge 2021 (+36.8%) and Guigal’s Côte Rôtie Château d’Ampuis 2018 (+20.0%) – reinforcing Rhône’s reputation as a quiet outperformer in challenging times.

The worst-performing regions: Bordeaux, Burgundy and California

Three major regions – California, Burgundy, and the broader Bordeaux 500 – each fell 5.6%, making them the weakest performers year to date.

  • Burgundy’s fall reflects an overdue correction after its dramatic run-up in 2021–2022. Though top-tier names (like DRC and Clos de Tart) remain in demand, the broader category has struggled under inflated pricing and speculative fatigue.
  • Similar to Burgundy, California, particularly its cult Cabernet segment, has suffered from reduced international demand.
  • Bordeaux’s broader weakness may be attributed to the underperformance of back vintages. However, its Legends 40 sub-index, focused on top estates with market longevity, proved more resilient (-2.6%).

H1 2025 top performers: the outliers that defied the trend

While most indices slipped, a handful of wines delivered double-digit returns.

best performing wines half 1 2025

Insights from the standouts

The Rhône leads with Chave’s Hermitage

Despite the Rhône 100 index declining 2.5%, Jean Louis Chave’s 2021 Hermitage Rouge rose 36.8% – a stark outperformance driven by limited availability and increased global recognition of its collectible status.

Sweet wines surged

Both Château d’Yquem 2014 and Château Suduiraut 2016 featured in the top ten, defying the quiet backdrop for Sauternes. This suggests renewed collector interest in undervalued dessert wines, particularly when linked to exceptional vintages.

US cult wines hold their own

Screaming Eagle 2012 proved resilient, with a 24.4% rise in value since the start of the year. Despite the California 50 index falling 5.6%, high-end Napa commands global attention in top-tier vintages.

Champagne’s prestige cuvées still sparkle

While the Champagne 50 index fell 4.9%, Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2015 bucked the trend with +24.4%, showing how top releases can outperform broader categories when aged and ready to drink.

Key takeaways for investors

Market-wide corrections are not uniform. Even in downturns, well-selected wines can deliver strong returns.

Rarity and recognisability drive results. Names like DRC, Yquem, Chave, and Screaming Eagle continue to act as safe harbours.

Blue-chip vintage selection matters. Wines from ‘off’ vintages like Canon 2014 offered some of the best entry points and upside surprises.

Sweet wines are staging a quiet comeback. This suggests contrarian plays may have room to run in H2.

Selectivity as the strategy for H2 2025

The first half of 2025 has confirmed what seasoned collectors already know: not all wines move with the market. Even as regional indices declined across the board, a handful of exceptional bottles bucked the trend, delivering standout returns through a combination of rarity, critical reputation, and maturity.

In today’s climate, the challenge isn’t access to wine but making the right decisions. Broad market exposure has offered little protection. Instead, performance has come from targeted allocations, where deep knowledge of producers, vintages, and release histories gives investors the edge.

Looking ahead to H2, the outlook is cautiously constructive. While macroeconomic headwinds remain – from tariffs and interest rates to uneven global demand – opportunities still exist for those willing to look beyond the indices.

In a recalibrating market, scarcity, selectivity, and substance will continue to define success.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Do wine critics still matter in 2025? Bordeaux Diaries Part I

Discover how wine critics influence Bordeaux wine investment in 2025 and whether Robert Parker’s legacy still shapes today’s market.

Provenance, a good vintage, scarcity, and brand are all factors that influence the price of fine wine, and hence the world of wine investment. Another factor that has, traditionally, impacted wine value is the critic. A top score can inspire confidence in the price performance of a wine, while an unfavourable rating can have the opposite effect. 

However, is the role of the wine critic as important as it was in the past? With the retirement of the hegemonic world-renowned wine reviewer, Robert Parker, who helped put Bordeaux, California and the Rhône at the forefront of wine buyers’ minds, and the rise of digital media, what does the future hold?

WineCap met figures from leading Bordeaux estates for their insights into the place of wine criticism in 2025 and the years ahead. In Part I, we discuss the legacy and the evolving role of the wine critic.

  • Robert Parker’s era of singular influence is over – today’s wine criticism is a collective effort.
  • Critics still shape wine investment decisions, but their role is now one of many in a more democratic media landscape.
  • The rise of digital voices and ‘wine educators’ is expanding access and perspective in the fine wine world.

Wine criticism in transition: legacy vs digital influence

Several producers saw formal wine criticism as a keystone of information for customers, but also recognised that it was part of a developing media ecosystem largely because of the impact of the internet.

Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Jean-Luc Thunevin, owner of Château Valandraud, thinks the importance of the traditional wine critic remains important for his château as the legacy of Robert Parker endures.

‘Parker had a hegemonic position; that is, he represented 80% of global influence. Today, in any case, there are collaborators who worked for him, who are very talented and who, two or three years ago, represented Parker’s influence,’ Thunevin told WineCap. ‘We can say that today, when you are a wine merchant, we use five or six major journalists, and we get an idea of what the wine is worth.’

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

‘In terms of the impact of the wine critics on the fame of our wines, we are very respectful of the job of the critics,’ Pierre-Oliver Clouet, technical manager at Château Cheval Blanc, explained. ‘We produce wine, there are wine distributors there to distribute the wine, there are wine collectors that collect the wine, and there are wine critics, who have to critique the wine. So, everybody has their own job in the wine world.’

The vast and varied selection of wine makes the role of the critic key, with Clouet adding that ranking wine estates, vintages, appellations, countries, and regions is important for consumers. 

‘The impact of critics is so important for the final client because the number of wines available on the market is huge. You have to find the critique who has your taste, and you have to follow him or her. This is the job: to help the consumer, to know more about what they’re going to purchase’.

Château Clinet, Pomerol

Ronan Laborde, managing director and owner at Château Clinet, is adamant that professional criticism is still an important fixture in the wine world, but acknowledges that information is more accessible to collectors and laymen alike today than in decades past. ‘We still need wine critique. When Robert Parker was reviewing and ranking, there was less wine criticism, and the web was not so widespread. Nowadays, there continue to be a lot of highly respectable wine critics.’

Laborde added that clients also have opportunities to bolster critic ratings with their own first-hand experience. ‘There are a lot of people who are really interested in wine and have the chance to visit wineries, taste the wines, and import the wines. So, it’s easier nowadays to try and have your own opinion than before. Robert Parker was a reference at the time he was active, but nowadays, it’s more split.’

Wine critique landscape in 2025: complexity and change

Château Margaux, First Growth, Haut-Médoc

Philippe Bascaules, managing director at Château Margaux, had an open-minded perspective on the shifting, changing, landscape of wine critique, not jumping to any conclusive opinion on its direction for the time being.

‘We are in a time when it’s very difficult to know the direction of journalists and social media and all this new communication, and how the consumers will use all of it to buy wine,’ he said. ‘Of course, it used to be so simple. Today, it’s much more complex and I think probably it’s even a good evolution, I would say, because then it can be a little bit more diverse, and everyone can find his own advisor. I think we are in transition and will know later exactly where it will lead and what it will mean.’

Château Coutet, Premier Cru, Sauternes

Other producers echo this sentiment. At Château Coutet, marketing director Aline Baly appreciates the rise of ‘wine educators’ who help spread awareness about lesser-known properties. 

‘In the last decade, we’ve seen a lot of new wine critics, or I also like to call them “wine educators” because they’re helping us get the message out there,’ marketing director Aline Baly told WineCap. ‘Some of the vineyards in this region are very tiny. We can’t be everywhere. We can’t be travelling and opening our wines and describing these wines. So, the wine critics, or wine educators help us get the message out.’

Regarding the growing number of critics, Baly was enthusiastic. ‘There is definitely a change from having very few people who are the spokespeople for all the vineyards in the world to a larger group of individuals who’ve come to visit, who’ve tasted wines and helped us get the message out there.’

Why wine critics still matter: education and expertise

Château Calon-Ségur, Third Growth, Saint-Estèphe

‘At the time of the Primeurs, we host many journalists from France and around the world,’ general director and owner of Château Calon-Ségur Vincent Millet said. ‘Today we have about fifteen journalists who come to taste the Primeurs every year. But what is also interesting is that these are the same journalists who will taste the wines when they are bottled, or a few months after bottling. So, they have a vision of a very young wine and a wine that has been aged in barrels, as well as a few months after bottling.’

This educational insider experience was invaluable for consumers, he added. ‘Today, what is interesting to see is that journalists have a culture of wine, follow the properties, follow the history of the property, and in some ways, these same journalists become true authorities on our wines. Even if we work with the brokers and merchants, the consumer will still look at the notes and comments of these same journalists. It is important for us to be able to explain how we work and what our philosophy is so that journalists can better understand the wines when they taste them’.

From Parker to pluralism: collective influence in wine

Several producers agree: the days of one critic dominating the wine conversation are behind us.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

‘I don’t think that we will ever again see one critic have such a completely dominant position as Robert Parker had. It was an accident of history in many ways. He just started at the right time, in 1982, when America was discovering the great wines of Bordeaux, and became accepted as the utterly reliable guide that he was,’ explained Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Pichon-Baron

‘Today, there are many talented wine tasters and critics, and I think that it’s more of a collective influence. So, there will be perhaps a dozen really major critics who move the market, and I think on a collective basis, this is actually a much healthier thing. I think that for one person to have so much influence was probably slightly unbalanced and dangerous. These days, you can choose, as a consumer, from a number of very good critics and decide which ones you like best and follow them.’

Château La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

‘The time of the likes of Robert Parker is completely finished,’ said owner of Château La Mondotte Stéphane von Neipperg. ‘Now we will have perhaps five to ten well known wine critics for the consumer. So, it will be a much more open game. Parker was an important guy because he made what makes a good wine understandable for a lot of people. However, it is also good to have different opinions.’

Von Neipperg pointed to the 2021 vintage as an example of how critic viewpoints can vary significantly, supporting his view of the benefits of such diversity. ‘If you read about the ratings of 2021, there were sometimes five to ten points difference for the same wine.’

As Bordeaux and the broader wine world evolve, so too does the role of the critic – moving from singular gatekeeper to a chorus of trusted voices, guiding collectors, investors, and enthusiasts through an increasingly nuanced landscape.

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. 

Start your wine investment journey with WineCap’s expert guidance.

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How UK and US investors react to tariffs

  • Wealth managers in both the UK and US anticipated increased demand for equities, real assets, and alternatives amid shifting trade policy landscapes.
  • US respondents showed stronger confidence in alternative assets, while UK managers leaned more toward traditional equities and property.
  • Fine wine was viewed in both markets as a resilient, inflation-resistant asset with long-term appeal, especially in portfolios seeking diversification.

With President Donald Trump back in the White House, global markets have once again entered a period of trade policy uncertainty. In late May 2025, the administration proposed sweeping 50% tariffs on European Union imports, initially planned for June 1 but now delayed until July 9 following negotiations with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. The move echoes earlier policy cycles that disrupted cross-border commerce, and while implementation remains uncertain, it has revived conversations about portfolio resilience and asset class performance under changing geopolitical conditions.

In our Wealth Management survey earlier this year, investors across both sides of the Atlantic were asked to consider how a renewed focus on domestic trade policy and market protectionism might shift capital allocation preferences. Their responses revealed an appetite for assets considered resilient, global, and responsive to consumer growth.

A recalibration of confidence across core and alternative assets

Across both markets, wealth managers projected increased demand for a wide range of asset classes, albeit with slightly different emphases. In the United Kingdom, demand was strongest for traditional equity exposures, particularly US stocks (94%) and emerging markets (90%), reflecting a continued belief in global growth opportunities despite the shifting trade backdrop. Property and non-US developed stocks also garnered attention, as did cash and bonds – indicating a balanced appetite for both growth and defensive positions.

*UK

In the US, the tone was more expansive and optimistic. US stocks topped the list at 98%, with similarly high sentiment for non-US developed markets (92%), cash (90%), and emerging market equities (86%). However, American wealth managers also showed a greater inclination toward alternatives – digital currency (88%), real estate (80%), startups (76%), and luxury collectibles (74%) all ranked notably high. This suggests that, even in the face of policy shifts, US investors were inclined to look for opportunity amid change, particularly in sectors with strong long-term narratives or tangible value.

*US

A nuanced position for fine wine and luxury assets

Fine wine and other luxury collectibles were not among the top-tier asset classes in the survey but nevertheless held their own as part of a well-rounded diversification strategy. 

While only 58% of UK respondents expected an increase in demand for luxury collectibles compared to 74% in the US, both figures reflect a belief in the long-term value of tangible, non-correlated assets – especially during periods of policy uncertainty.

Historically, fine wine has performed well in such climates. Its low correlation with traditional financial markets, combined with intrinsic scarcity and global appeal, positions it as an attractive option for wealth preservation. 

US respondents in particular noted that if Trump’s policies were to echo those from his previous term – most notably tax cuts that increased disposable income among high-net-worth individuals – then demand for luxury goods, including fine wine, could grow in tandem with consumer confidence.

Inflation resistance and tangibility remain key themes

Another through-line in both markets is the recognition that tangible, inflation-resistant assets may offer stability when macroeconomic or policy environments shift. While digital assets and equities continue to dominate discussions, the inclusion of fine wine and real estate in both countries’ top ten expected demand growth areas suggests a common view: that real, finite goods still hold a trusted place in long-term strategies.

This sentiment aligns with broader investment trends of the past five years, during which fine wine has steadily gained credibility as an alternative asset. From a performance standpoint, it has demonstrated resilience through downturns and delivered attractive risk-adjusted returns over the long term. And as more platforms offer increased liquidity and data transparency, fine wine is becoming more accessible to wealth managers seeking both diversification and durability.

Looking ahead

While our survey preceded the most recent tariff developments, the views it captured reflect a broader mindset already taking shape among global investors. As the July 9 tariff deadline approaches, and with the potential for further policy changes, these pre-existing preferences offer a lens into how wealth managers may continue to allocate in an evolving geopolitical environment.

For fine wine in particular, its dual role as both a passion asset and a portfolio stabiliser could prove increasingly valuable. Whether driven by renewed domestic consumption or a search for global, inflation-resistant stores of value, fine wine appears poised to remain a quiet but meaningful part of the wealth management conversation on both sides of the Atlantic.

Looking for more? See also: 

WineCap Wealth Report 2025: UK Edition

WineCap Wealth Report 2025: US Edition

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Lower En Primeur volumes: Bordeaux estates explain

The nature of Bordeaux’s En Primeur campaign varies each year depending on growing conditions and market forces. However, one aspect is emerging as a strong trend across vintages: volumes released during En Primeur are decreasing.

WineCap spoke with prominent Bordeaux producers for deeper insights into the reasons for this pattern.

  • Interviewed châteaux release between 60% and 90% En Primeur.
  • Rising temperatures and organic farming reduce yields and En Primeur offerings.
  • Châteaux need to consider both on- and off-trade customers.
  • Climate change necessitates holding wine for style, and brand preservation in future.
  • Competition to produce the highest quality reduces volume.

Decreased production and adaptable approach

Several producers WineCap interviewed explained that, in addition to the variable vintages typical of the Bordeaux region, global warming and changing vineyard practices are lowering yields.

Château Pichon Comtesse, Second Growth, Pauillac

Nicolas Glumineau, CEO and winemaker, recognised lower yields and wine volumes in recent years as contributing to the changing dynamics of the En Primeur system.

‘For Pichon Comtesse, it’s not due to the fact that we want to retain more volumes here in the cellars,’ Glumineau told WineCap. ‘I really do believe in the En Primeur system, despite seeing less and less volume of wine released this way. Volumes released have gone down because of lower yields over the last ten to 15 years. Still, I want to play the game of En Primeur, so that’s why we release something like 80% of our production every year’.

Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé, Graves

Florence Cathiard, co-owner with her husband Daniel of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, said that low yields influenced their decisions to reduce En Primeur volumes but commented that it was possible some maneuvering occurred.

‘For us, it’s not voluntary. It’s because of organic certification, which means we tend to have too low volumes,’ she said. 

Château Margaux, First Growth, Haut-Médoc

‘The En Primeur volume, of course, is lower than ten or 20 years ago because the yield is much lower than before. Also, we are much more demanding in our selection for Château Margaux. So the total volume of Château Margaux has decreased tremendously,’ managing director, Philippe Bascaules, told WineCap. ‘That said, the quantity of En Primeur hasn’t changed a lot. Depending on the vintage, we can sell 70% to 85% of the production’.

Bascaules emphasised that it was the level of the yield and strict selection for quality control, rather than the house’s reluctance to participate, that created an impression of reduction. ‘En Primeur is very important for us’.

Château Pavie, Premier Grand Cru Classé (A), Saint-Émilion

‘At Château Pavie, we haven’t really changed the policy of let’s release less wine or let’s release more wine,’ Olivier Gailly, commercial director, said. ‘We adapt vintage to vintage. There is no strict rule as to what we want to release; the percentage might change vintage after vintage, depending on the dynamic of the market and of the vintage itself’.

Château Clinet, Pomerol

‘I think the main reason for the reduction in En Primeur volumes is the fact that sustainable viticultural practices reduce the volumes made per producer,’ Ronan Laborde, managing director and owner, explained.

‘Also, there is a strong competition to produce the best wine possible. You cannot do this with high volumes. So that’s why you also see more and more Bordeaux wine producers offering second wines or sometimes third wines. So, the quantity produced on the first wine is reduced. I think these are the two main reasons why the En Primeur volumes that are offered seem to be smaller than in the past’.

Customer choice

While some Bordeaux producers have a flexible strategy to their En Primeur releases, others believe that such versatility can have drawbacks, and that producer marketing and client demand should dictate stability in decision-making.

Troplong Mondot, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Ferréol du Fou, commercial director of Troplong Mondot, described lowering En Primeur quantities as ‘a huge mistake’, citing customer appetite as a key driver to the house’s stance.

‘Our strategy is to release 80% of the production every year, even if production is low. People need wines, and we need to show the label to the world. En Primeur is a way to offer a good deal for the consumer’.

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Julien Barthe, who co-owns Château Beau-Séjour Bécot with his wife Juliet, has a similar position.

‘I think it’s a big mistake for many châteaux because they want to increase their prices, so they deliver a small volume. I really don’t think it’s a good way to promote your wine,’ he told WineCap. ‘This is not the case at Beau-Séjour Becot. We release around 85% to 90% of our production every year because we want to offer a good number of bottles to all our clients. We want to say ‘thanks, guys, you buy my wine, we are happy, we will be happy when you drink this wine’’.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, which owns Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, also believes that offering customers options is crucial, even if this involves holding a substantial amount of stock.

‘We release about half of our production of Grand Vin En Primeur, and we keep the other half back for a number of years,’ he said. ‘The reason we do that is that it gives our customers two options; if they want to buy En Primeur, they can. If they don’t feel like buying En Primeur and would like to come back and buy the wine from the property five years later, we still have stocks of wine for them here. The chances are it’s going to be a little bit more expensive a few years later, but it would have been kept in the perfect location at the property. So, by doing half En Primeur and half stock available at the château, we feel that we’re offering our customers the choice’.

Châteaux traditional commercial activities

An important influence on En Primeur release quantities for several chateaux is retaining volumes to maintain established business activities on site and throughout on- and off-trade networks.

Château Beychevelle, Fourth Growth, Saint-Julien 

Philippe Blanc, general manager of Château Beychevelle, stressed to WineCap that the house took local customers into account when making decisions about what levels of wine to release En Primeur.

‘We don’t play the scarcity game, we play the game of En Primeur’, he said. ‘We’ve got over 100 negociant customers, which is a lot, and we sell 85% of our production En Primeur. Before 2016, we were selling 95% or 96%, which is extremely high. We were frustrated to not have any volumes of available wines for doing anything. For example, if tomorrow you decided you wanted to have an event with us, we could make an event because we always have enough wine for drinking, but we have no wine for selling. It was a bit frustrating for us and the merchants here or abroad when they asked for, say, five cases of wine for customers, and we had no wine. So, we decided to decrease the shares sold En Primeur to 85%.’

Blanc went on to explain that, while there had been a decrease in En Primeur volumes, there was no intention to go lower. ‘And why are we so dedicated to En Primeur? Beychevelle, as you probably know, is a wine which increases its value over time, and our golden rule is that the Primeur price is the lowest you can get. We could say, okay, keep more, because the price will go up, but we don’t want this policy, because setting the price at a more reasonable level makes it possible to sell it to the traditional market. So, we stick to that.’

Château Canon, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

Nicolas Audebert, winemaker and general manager of the Saint-Émilion estate, has the same perspective on En Primeur with the house operating within its framework. It also considers the on-trade environment when making decisions about wine proportions for the annual campaign.

‘We consider that the En Primeur moment and campaign are extremely important, and we play the game. We do not put a small volume in En Primeur,’ he told WineCap. ‘Of course, we keep some volume here at the chateau to be able to have wine for the next 20 years, to have wine for the bibliothèque, and be able to do fantastic tastings 80 or 100 years from now.’

The chateau puts a minimum of 70% of the production, every year, En Primeur, with Audebert describing it as a ‘fantastic time where everybody’s looking at Bordeaux’ and ‘a win-win for the consumer and for us’.

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

At between 60% and 70%, Pierre-Oliver Clouet, winemaker and the technical manager at the Right Bank house, sometimes commits even lower amounts than peers to the En Primeur campaign.

‘We keep around one-third of our crops to sell in five, ten, or 15 years, to have an opportunity to provide some bottles to restaurants, wine shops, or distributors who don’t have the opportunity to have storage. We alter the model a little between two-thirds En Primeur and one-third available for the market – ready-to-drink, in fact’.                                                                

Wine heritage

For Cos d’Estournel, the annual En Primeur allocation decision relates to the house’s legacy: mitigating the impact of climate change on the classic and recognisable style of the house’s wine is of prime concern.

Cos d’Estournel, Second Growth, Saint-Estèphe

‘Well, in terms of En Primeur, the volumes are quite different compared to before because before, the context was different,’ commercial director Charles Thomas told WineCap. ‘Twenty, 30, or 40 years ago, when you couldn’t sell your wine, you would sell all your wine if you could. Also, when you look at global warming, the style of wine could be a bit different in 20 years. So, in terms of style, it’s also quite important to keep some wine that we make now and to be able to release it later on.’

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

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How fine wine investment attitudes differ in the UK and US

  • UK investors are moving faster than their US counterparts in handing over to a younger, tech-savvy generation, with a sharper decline in ‘very experienced’ participants.
  • US portfolios still allocate more to fine wine on average, reflecting a greater appetite for alternative assets despite similar downward trends in allocation.
  • Both markets are embracing digital tools and AI-driven insights, but the UK appears slightly ahead in integrating fine wine into a broader fintech-enabled investment strategy.

The fine wine investment market in 2025 is experiencing a paradigm shift on both sides of the Atlantic. While the United Kingdom and the United States share many overarching trends like the rise of a younger, tech-savvy investor base and the repositioning of fine wine as a strategic asset, the nuances in their trajectories highlight key cultural, financial, and strategic differences.

A shared generational shift at different paces

Both the UK and US reports depict a clear generational handover in fine wine investment. Baby boomers, once the stalwarts of the market, are selling off holdings accumulated over decades. In their place, a new cohort of Millennial and Gen Z investors is emerging – individuals who see wine less as a consumable luxury and more as a data-driven, alternative investment.

*UK

However, the pace of this transition is more pronounced in the UK. Only 32% of UK investors in 2025 are now classified as ‘very experienced’, a sharp drop from 52% in 2024. In contrast, the US market still holds a stronger base of experienced investors, with 44% falling into that category – a modest decline from 48% in 2024.

*US

This suggests that while the UK is undergoing a more aggressive generational overhaul, the US market remains slightly more anchored in legacy investor behaviors. This could reflect cultural factors, such as the USA’s longer-standing tradition of wine collection, or structural elements like the greater maturity of digital investment platforms in the UK.

Diverging portfolio allocations

In both markets, fine wine is increasingly treated as a complementary asset class rather than a core holding. This shift is evident in declining portfolio allocations. In the UK, the average portfolio allocation to fine wine has dropped from 10.8% in 2024 to 7.8% in 2025. US investors have larger allocations overall, which have still declined from 13% to 10.7% on average year-on-year.

While both reductions are linked to recent price corrections and broader diversification strategies, the US still shows a greater willingness to commit higher portions of wealth to fine wine. Notably, 40% of US investors still allocate 11–20% of their portfolio to wine, compared to 18% in the UK.

This discrepancy may be driven by different attitudes toward risk, or a reflection of the US investor’s broader enthusiasm for alternatives – including crypto, art, and collectibles – where fine wine fits comfortably into a high-yield mindset.

Technology and the new investor toolkit

One unifying force across both markets is the use of AI, data analytics, and digital platforms. The new generation of investors is not relying on intuition; they’re using dashboards, price trends, and machine learning models to inform their trades.

*UK

This transformation is blurring the line between emotional and analytical investment, enabling fine wine to shed its image as a passion-led endeavor and gain legitimacy as a financial tool. However, the UK appears slightly more mature in this regard, perhaps due to a tighter integration between fintech and alternative asset platforms.

*US

Market sentiment: recalibration, not retreat

Despite recent price softening, neither the UK nor US market is retreating. Instead, both are recalibrating. Experienced investors are taking profits, newer investors are entering at lower price points, and portfolio managers are redefining what role wine should play – most now agree it’s a diversifier, not a pillar.

Crucially, both markets anticipate that today’s corrections will lay the groundwork for tomorrow’s gains. Historically, fine wine has shown resilience and rebound capacity. The current dip may ultimately broaden participation and enhance long-term sustainability.

Two markets, one destination

The UK and US fine wine investment landscapes are converging in vision, yet diverging in pace and personality. The UK is evolving faster – more volatility-tolerant, more digitally advanced, and more dynamic in reallocating portfolios. The US, by contrast, remains a more anchored, cautiously progressive market, with higher average allocations but slower risk adoption.

Yet both markets are ultimately moving toward the same future: a fine wine investment world that is younger, smarter, more inclusive, and increasingly strategic.

As fine wine sheds its elitist past and embraces a tech-enabled future, investors on both sides of the Atlantic recognise fine wine’s growing potential.

Looking for more? See also: 

WineCap Wealth Report 2025: UK Edition

WineCap Wealth Report 2025: US Edition

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Fine wine in the age of AI

  • AI has emerged as a transformative force in investment management. 
  • 98% of UK wealth managers expect AI to have a significant impact on fine wine investment in the next five years. 
  • Key areas include greater investor control, wider market acceptance and improved transparency.

Artificial intelligence (AI) has emerged as a transformative force in investment management, reshaping industries through advanced data analysis, predictive modelling, and automation. From equities to property, AI-powered tools can process vast amounts of information, identify patterns, and spotlight opportunities with unprecedented speed.

The fine wine sector, traditionally reliant on expert opinion, historical market trends, and insider knowledge, is now at the cusp of a similar transformation. AI is set to redefine how fine wine is valued, traded, and perceived within investment portfolios. Only 2% of WineCap’s latest survey respondents believe AI will have no impact on fine wine investment in the next five years. This overwhelming consensus highlights the disruptive potential of AI and its role in increasing market efficiency, accessibility, and transparency.

So, how exactly is AI poised to reshape fine wine investment? Insights from industry participants highlight several key areas of transformation.

Greater investor control: A shift away from brokers?

The most significant impact predicted by 76% of respondents is that AI will make it easier for investors to control their investments independently.

Historically, fine wine investment has required expertise from brokers, consultants, and wine merchants who provide insights into market pricing, provenance, and expected returns. 

However, AI-driven platforms might reduce reliance on intermediaries by offering investors real-time valuations based on live market transactions and historical performance, automated risk assessments and tailored portfolio strategies.

This shift means that both new and experienced investors will have more tools at their disposal to make informed decisions, potentially leading to a more democratised market.

Fine wine as a more widely accepted asset class

AI’s ability to provide data-backed insights is expected to enhance the credibility of fine wine as an alternative investment category. According to our survey, 72% of UK wealth managers believe AI will make fine wine a more widely accepted asset class.

Currently, one of the biggest barriers to institutional investment in fine wine is valuation inconsistency and market opacity. Unlike stocks, which trade on transparent exchanges, fine wine prices may vary across different auction houses and merchants. 

AI can help solve this problem through improved risk modelling, more accurate valuation algorithms and enhanced demand forecasting to predict which wines will appreciate over time.

With these advancements, institutional investors and wealth managers will find it easier to allocate capital to fine wine, increasing its legitimacy alongside other alternative assets like gold and property. 

Attracting a new generation of investors

Nearly 48% of our survey respondents believe AI will make fine wine investment more appealing to younger generations. This shift is critical as baby boomers – who have traditionally dominated fine wine collecting – begin to exit the market, and younger investors with a digital-first mindset step in.

AI-driven platforms might lower entry barriers for new investors by offering intuitive user interfaces similar to modern trading apps like Robinhood or Wealthfront and providing personalised investment recommendations based on user preferences and risk tolerance.

By enhancing accessibility, AI can help bring fine wine investment into the mainstream of digital wealth management, positioning it alongside equities and ETFs as a viable portfolio component.

Improved transparency in the fine wine market

Lack of transparency has long been a challenge for fine wine investors, making it difficult to track pricing trends, authenticate bottles, and assess liquidity risks. However, AI-powered analytics are poised to change this by introducing new levels of visibility and accuracy into the market.

According to the survey, 38% of respondents believe AI will bring greater transparency to the industry. Key improvements might include live tracking of historical price movements, enhanced authentication processes, and supply-chain analytics;

These improvements will increase investor confidence, reduce information asymmetry, and create a more efficient secondary market.

WineCap Wealth Report 2025: UK Edition

What does the future hold?

While AI is still in the early stages of adoption in fine wine investment, the technology is already proving its value by enhancing investor control, broadening market access, and increasing transparency. The next five years are likely to see even greater integration of AI into fine wine investment strategies. Potential developments include blockchain integration, predictive analytics, and automated trading platforms.

As the fine wine investment landscape evolves, those who embrace AI-powered insights will gain a competitive edge, benefiting from greater market clarity and data-driven decision-making. The fine wine sector is on the brink of a technological revolution – one that could reshape how investors interact with and perceive this centuries-old asset class.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

 

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How does Bordeaux set its release prices?

In the springtime of each year, all eyes turn to Bordeaux as the region begins its extended En Primeur campaign when châteaux across this prominent region set their wine prices.

Such decisions require the navigation of multiple factors within a delicate financial and cultural ecosystem. WineCap spoke with eminent producers for insights into what influences the all-important price setting.

  •         Previous vintages and price key influences
  •         Profitability for all players is an important driver
  •         Compelling price point for customers is critical
  •         Brand and critical ratings have some impact

Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé, Graves

“Don’t believe people say, ‘I do it all by myself’,” said Florence Cathiard who co-owns the Graves house with her husband Daniel. “It’s a long process and very delicate because we have to take several parameters into account.”

These include contemplating pushing prices higher because of swift sales in previous years, the vintage quality, and the general global environment.

“We also take advice from some of the best négociants, brokers, and even some importers — not those who are just trying to put the price down, to sell high, but the real friends.”

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, has devised a formula for the optimal release price of a Grand Cru Wine.

“The ideal price is the highest price possible at which my existing customers will buy the wine with enthusiasm,” he said. “It has to be the highest price possible, otherwise I might get fired. But it has to be the highest price possible at which my existing customers will buy the wine with enthusiasm. If you go too high, your existing customers might buy it without enthusiasm. If you go much too high, maybe your existing customers won’t buy it, and that would be terrible. It’s a personal judgment based on experience.”

Château Pichon Comtesse, Second Growth, Pauillac

Nicolas Glumineau, CEO and winemaker of Château Pichon Comtesse, combines mathematics with common sense.

To price the wine correctly, you have to be very respectful of your market. And what we do is to have a very sharp eye on market prices,” he explained. “We consider that each step of the distribution chain has to get remuneration. It’s very important for each of us to earn money thanks to the distribution of Pichon Comtesse.”

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

Pierre-Oliver Clouet, Managing Director at Château Cheval Blanc has a similarly logical approach.

“En Primeur should be forever the lowest price you can find in your bottle,” he told WineCap. “The release price depends on many things: the quality of the vintage, the economic context in the world, and, as well, the price of new vintages available on the market. So, ultimately, the definition of the price En Primeur is not something difficult to reach. This is something mathematical.”

Château Canon, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion.

Nicolas Audebert also follows mathematical logic in the pricing game. “If you go En Primeur, the interest for the consumer, the guy buying the bottle is that ‘if I buy en primeur, the bottle that I will put in my cellar and not able to drink now, it has to be at a lower price of the same quality I can buy in the market and drink now’,” he told WineCap.

Audebert takes an equivalent quality vintage from recent years, considers the margin, does some precision-calculations, and arrives at a price that offers a ‘win-win’ for all parties.

“Of course, afterwards, you can have ‘plus-value’ on the exceptional quality of the vintage or something like that. But if we play primeur, we have to play the game of logical pricing.”

Château Pavie, Premier Grand Cru Classé (A), Saint-Émilion

“There are some secrets,” jokes Olivier Gailly, commercial director for the Perse wine family at the renowned house. “There are a lot of different factors, which are, first of all, the history of your château, the different vintages and prices in the past, and how successful it was.

If the market demands, you have to push some, but you have to listen to it as well. Of course, ratings still play a role, meaning the feedback from the customers when they come and taste during the En Primeur week in Bordeaux. We then meet with Monsieur Perse and take the decision together. The final one will be his, being the owner of the property.”

Château La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

“If you have the wrong price, it’s a disaster,” Stéphane von Neipperg, owner of the Right Bank house said. “Nobody wants a lot of people wh don’t want to buy the wine.”

When his team goes to the market, they consider the global economy, the local market price direction, and information from brokers and négociants. “You have to absolutely test the price with negotiants, brokers, and also with your friends, the importers. Then we can say, ‘well, this would be a good price’. A good price is when everyone in the business makes money.”

Cos d’Estournel, Second Growth, Saint-Estèphe

Charles Thomas, commercial director of the Left Bank château, places an emphasis on quality and the good value the region offers when deciding on price. “I would be lying if I said it doesn’t depend sometimes on the exchange rate,” he said. “But also, it’s according to the quality we have — and this is the most important thing. Bordeaux is not expensive when you look at Burgundy and Napa Valley and some wine from other appellations.”

Vintage has more of an impact than elsewhere and can link to market price, Thomas added. “Of course, in Bordeaux you have the vintage effect that you don’t always have in other parts of the world. We try to be more stable for the client or the consumer, though, so they can accept any necessary price variation.”

Château Angelus, Saint-Émilion

As well as previous vintage pricing in Bordeaux and internationally, for Château Angelus CEO Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, two more factors are key influences when the prestigious house goes to market.

“The volume as well, of course, because it makes a real impact,” she explained. “I’d say the strength of the brand as well.”

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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What makes fine wine a great portfolio diversifier?

  • One of the key characteristics that make fine wine an attractive diversifier is its low correlation to traditional financial markets.
  • Its scarcity and tangibility further drive up its value. 
  • According to the WineCap Wealth Report 2025, 96% of UK wealth managers expect demand for fine wine to increase, a testament to its growing recognition as a valuable asset class. 

Moreover, fine wine’s value is tied to its provenance, condition, and aging potential, making it a tangible investment with intrinsic worth. Unlike cryptocurrencies or speculative stocks, which can experience extreme fluctuations based on sentiment or market cycles, fine wine benefits from an established secondary market where demand remains steady among collectors, investors, and luxury buyers.

Inflation hedge and wealth preservation

Fine wine serves as a natural hedge against inflation, protecting purchasing power when traditional assets are eroded by rising costs. As inflation increases, the prices of hard assets like fine art, real estate, and fine wine tend to appreciate, maintaining their value in real terms.

Wealth managers increasingly recommend allocating a small percentage of a portfolio to alternative assets like fine wine to safeguard against economic turbulence.

Tax efficiency for UK investors

For UK-based investors, fine wine presents a significant tax advantage over traditional investments. Unlike stocks, real estate, or business assets that are subject to Capital Gains Tax (CGT), fine wine is classified as a “wasting asset”, meaning it has an anticipated lifespan of less than 50 years.

This classification makes fine wine exempt from CGT, allowing investors to realise profits without the same tax burdens as other asset classes.

For example, a traditional investment yielding a £5,000 profit could be subject to CGT at rates of up to 24%, reducing net returns. In contrast, a fine wine investment with the same £5,000 profit would be tax-free, maximising gains for high-net-worth investors.

This tax efficiency makes fine wine particularly attractive in wealth management strategies, especially as the UK government has lowered CGT allowances and increased tax rates in recent years.

Growing institutional and HNW investor demand

The perception of fine wine as a viable financial asset is rapidly evolving. Traditionally the domain of private collectors and enthusiasts, fine wine is now being incorporated into portfolios managed by wealth advisors, family offices, and institutional investors.

According to the WineCap Wealth Report 2025, 96% of UK wealth managers expect demand for fine wine to increase, a testament to its growing recognition as a valuable asset class. 

Additionally, AI-powered investment tools are making fine wine more accessible to a broader range of investors. Fine wine companies and professionally managed portfolios allow investors to gain exposure without needing deep industry expertise.

This institutional adoption further legitimises fine wine as a serious financial instrument, enhancing its liquidity and long-term viability.

Why fine wine deserves a place in your portfolio

Incorporating fine wine into an investment portfolio provides stability, tax efficiency, inflation protection, and strong diversification benefits. Its low correlation with traditional assets makes it particularly valuable during periods of market uncertainty, while its scarcity-driven appreciation ensures long-term value retention.

For investors seeking to protect and grow wealth, fine wine remains one of the most compelling alternative investments available today.

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Part II Bordeaux climate change: adaptive viticulture the way forward?

With vineyard temperatures on the rise in Bordeaux, WineCap spoke with leading Bordeaux estates about how they’re fighting back to protect both wine heritage and future generations.

  • Adaptive viticulture is a widespread method of coping with climate change.
  • Traditional and experimental moderating methods are both in use.
  • High temperatures can be beneficial for recent and, potentially, near-term vintage quality.

Vineyard layout, clones, rootstocks, and varietal proportion: Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, Château Margaux, Château La Conseillante, and Château Pavie

To moderate the impact of climate change, Julien Barthe, co-owner of Beau-Séjour Becot has implemented a radical vineyard layout change to prevent berry burn. ‘The vineyard was formerly planted in an east-west direction. From mid-day to 1 pm, the sun arrived on the west side, right on the berries. This is why we changed the orientation from north to south ­— to avoid the same effect.’

Philippe Bascaules, managing director of Château Margaux has taken the same approach. ‘We decided to change the orientation of our rows,’ he told WineCap.

Barthe also explained that the house is using new clonal selections of Cabernet Franc to help retain the freshness in its Merlot-dominant blends.

Cultivating resilient vines was, similarly, the approach of Marielle Cazaux, the general manager of La Conseillante. ‘Climate change is a big question. We are thinking long term about rootstocks and grape variety.’

Referring to early-ripening Merlot’s vulnerability to climate change, Cazaux stressed the importance of preserving its classic wine profile. ‘We are adapting the rootstock to be more resilient against hydraulic stress and thinking about changing the clones a little bit.’

Olivier Gailly from Château Pavie said that his team had already begun experimenting with climate-resistant proportions of grape varietals at the turn of the century. The house replanted its vineyards with an increased quantity of later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly-behaving Cabernet Franc to blend with Merlot. This proportion has helped to maintain wine freshness as temperatures rise. 

Adaptive vineyard management: Château Cheval Blanc, Château Angelus, and Château Calon Segur

Traditional vineyard management techniques such as dense canopy cultivation, durable old vine revival, and biodiversity practices that support the mitigation of climate change have been intensified around Bordeaux since at least the millennium. While some methods have a short time frame, Pierre-Oliver Clouet, winemaker and technical manager at Château Cheval Blanc, which famously voluntarily withdrew from the Saint-Émilion classification system in 2021, spoke about the need for a long-term view.

‘We should adapt today to preserve Cheval Blanc in 20 years,’ he told WineCap. ‘Global warming is going to be a problem because, with two or three more degrees, the wine quality is still going to be good enough, but the identity will not be the same.’

Clouet said the château implements cover crop techniques to protect the soil from high temperatures, enhance soil nutrients and resilience, and to conserve rainwater more efficiently. He has also planted trees to expand cooling shade for vines and is training plants that are heat- and disease-resistant.

Saint-Émilion peer Château Angelus, which also opted out of the appellation’s classification system in 2022, uses a device that assists with hydrating and cooling vines in a region with stringent irrigation rules. President and CEO Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal explained: For hail, we have a device that is a balloon that auto launches. It’s blown with helium and contains salt crystals so when it’s swollen by a cloud, it spreads out the salt and allows the ice to melt. Instead of having hail, we have rain,’ she told WineCap.

Cooling heat-stressed plants was also a priority for Vincent Millet, general manager of Château Calon Ségur. He told WineCap how he and his team are refining a mechanism to conserve cooling dampness in vineyard plots: ‘We are setting up specific enclosure systems which can trap and return humidity to the plant.’

Research and experimentation: Château La Dominique

While age-old vineyard methods are adapted to counter the perils of global warming, innovation is a key part of Château La Dominique’s philosophy.

General manager, Gwendoline Lucas, detailed the producer’s efforts in this area. ‘We are very concerned about climate change, so we started working with Bordeaux Sciences Agro years ago to do some research about how we can better manage our vineyard,’ she told WineCap. ‘We are also part of VitiREV, which is the first European fund specialising in viticultural ecological transition. We are like a laboratory testing new solutions from startups. We see a lot of proposals and when we think that something is quite interesting, we try it in our vineyard.’

Beneficial natural environment: Château Pavie, Château Canon, Cos d’Estournel, and Château Margaux

While acknowledging the potential hazards of climate change, several producers told WineCap that they had, to date, avoided any serious consequences of rising temperatures across Bordeaux by dint of resilient terroir. Whether location or soil composition, nature provides a mitigating influence to the heat, ensuring balance and traditional character in yield and wines.

‘We are fortunate to have this exceptional limestone terroir which really keeps a lot of freshness in the wine,’ said Olivier Gailly, commercial director of Saint-Émilion house Château Pavie. ‘Then we have the forests around the château which are very important to keep a bit cooler.’

Soil make-up was also cited by Nicolas Audebert, winemaker and general manager at fellow Saint-Émilion house, Château Canon. Referring to climate change, he said: ‘We see it in berry ripeness every day, but we still have a long way to go before we get into trouble because we are on a fantastic, limestone terroir.’

The water-retaining freshness of limestone guarantees that vines do not suffer severe heat stress, Audebert added, also noting the benefits of micro-practices.

‘There are a lot of fantastic wine producing regions in the world where the climate is warmer than here and they manage,’ he said. ‘I spent ten years in Argentina making wine so I have some experience of how we can evolve our viticulture to protect it. There are thousands of small things we can adapt to keep that elegant, vibrant, precise, style we like.’

Vineyard coolness was also cited by Charles Thomas, commercial director at Cos d’Estournel. ‘We are lucky enough to be in the north part of the Médoc where we have the Gironde River providing freshness to the vineyard.’

Not all Bordeaux producers regard climate change unfavourably and are optimistic that, with a responsive approach, the trials of the decades ahead will be overcome.

‘I think we are just at the beginning,’ Philippe Bascaules of Château Margaux told WineCap. ‘For the last ten years, summer drought and heat have helped us to make even better wine. But, of course, we know that if the temperatures continue to increase, we will be in big trouble because it will not only change the quantity of wine but also the style of the wine we want to produce.’

To this end, the chateau continues to be attentive and flexible in the face of global warming. ‘At least for the next 50 years, I’m quite optimistic that we will find the parameters and the techniques to continue to produce the wine of Château Margaux as it exists today,’ he said. ‘I don’t know about after that because who knows what the temperature will be in Bordeaux in 50 years?’

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

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Climate change in Bordeaux: are new varieties the answer?

WineCap spoke with leading Bordeaux estates on the much-discussed possibility of introducing new, heat-resistant grape varietals to this leading wine region to mitigate the impact of global warming.

    • Adaptive viticulture and winemaking were the prevalent answers to coping with climate change.
    • The minority considered old resilient Bordeaux varietals and new grapes.
    • Heritage and current appellation laws are significant.

 Adaptive winemaking: Château Pichon-Baron

Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Château Pichon-Baron was firm that the response to climate change was not the introduction of new cultivars but rather adaptive winemaking.

‘Here at Pichon, 25 years ago, the blend tended to be around 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot. These days, it’s 80% or more Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot,’ he told WineCap. ‘It’s not an answer to climate change, but it’s how we’re adapting because we are having more hot, sunny years which enable us to get the Cabernets magnificently ripe. In the old days, when we hadn’t got the Cabernets perfectly ripe, a nice bit of ripe Merlot was a useful element in the blend. It’s still a useful element, but we need less of it.’

This approach also softens the grape alcohol content that has steadily risen along with warmer growing seasons. ‘Merlot grapes here will probably have one degree more of alcohol than Cabernet. If you want to keep your wines under 14% abv, which we do at Pichon, one way of doing that is to increase the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon.’

Traditional vineyard management and quality over trend: Château Canon-la-Gaffelière and Château Calon Segur

Stéphane von Neipperg, proprietor of Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, was uncompromising on his views about new varieties, preferring skilled, traditional viticulture instead.

‘Increasingly, some technical people are speaking about new varieties for wines. I’m just against it,’ he told WineCap. ‘They’re not proving that the quality is outstanding. They only prove that they don’t need to spray against mildew.’

Von Neipperg stressed the château’s effective practice of copper spraying which complements the composition of its vineyard soils and its cultivation of old vines that display hardiness to warmer summers.

‘We are well known for old vines. We have our own genetics and I think this is much more important than these new varieties.’

Vincent Millet, general manager of Château Calon Ségur has a similar approach to dealing with rising temperatures: massal selection and a decades-long vineyard restructuring plan to be completed in 2035.

‘We recovered old Merlot vines from 1940, Petit Verdot from the 1930s, and Cabernet Franc from the 1970s. We have created our own collection,’ he told WineCap. ‘This collection allows us to preserve a genetic heritage…which allows us to try to resist the increases in temperature.’

Under this climate change-defying scheme, rather than planting new cultivars, the château plans to plant more Cabernet Sauvignon and adjust the quantities of the other traditional Bordeaux varietals.

Potential of resilient Bordeaux varieties: Château Saint Pierre and Château Beychevelle

For co-owner of Château Saint Pierre, Jean Triaud, there is the possibility of regional heat-tolerant grape varieties thriving in warmer climates, making a comeback. He cited Malbec, a varietal that originated and still grows in southwest France and now flourishes in Argentina and Carménère, formerly planted widely in the Médoc and now the flagship black grape of Chile.

‘Those great varieties come from Bordeaux, but finally work much better in other places thanks to the weather. Why not come back?’

However, referring to appellation laws, he acknowledged that the situation was complex. ‘But it’s not so easy because here we don’t decide all the rules,’ he added.

While acknowledging the strict limitations of the appellation system, Philippe Blanc of Château Beychevelle had a similar perspective.

‘The most sensible thing would be to take varieties coming from the south, mainly Spain and Portugal, and see how they adapt here,’ he told WineCap. ‘It’s always this way. You go north and plant Pinot Noir in Sweden or Brittany or Chardonnay in Kent. Maybe it’s good to invest in Brittany or Normandy to make new vineyards in the future.’

Restrictive appellation laws: Château Beychevelle

General manager of Château Beychevelle, Philippe Blanc, is open to the possibility of introducing new heat-resistant grape varieties but recognises that the French appellation system is slow to react and evolve.

‘It takes a lot of time to reach an agreement. If I decide to plant Shiraz, I can make Vin de France, but I can’t make Saint-Julien. So, in terms of value, it’s difficult to do,’ he said. ‘I’ve got no new varieties but, we’ll keep an eye on this and as soon as we’re allowed to plant new grapes, even 2% or 3%, we’ll do it.’

Value of regional heritage and legacy: Château Margaux and Château Troplong Montot

Philippe Bascaules, managing director of Château Margaux said that the estate has the possibility of cultivar changes in mind and a designated block of vineyard for experimentation with new varietals. However, he told WineCap, ‘it’s not decided’.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon is the core of the blend of Château Margaux. The decision to change that is a big one. I’m not considering doing it in the next 50 years.’

Commercial director of Château Troplong Montot, Ferréol du Fou, was more direct about the option to use heat-resistant grapes as a buffer against climate change.

‘Burgundy has Pinot Noir. Bordeaux has Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. The solution is to work more in the vineyard, it’s not planting Tempranillo. It’s a plaster, it’s a bandage. We have to think about the next generation,’ he told WineCap. ‘Making Tempranillo in Bordeaux is stupid. I’m a bit harsh, but this is the truth for me.’

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.