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Do wine critics still matter in 2025? Bordeaux Diaries Part I

Chateau Clinet vineyard

Discover how wine critics influence Bordeaux wine investment in 2025 and whether Robert Parker’s legacy still shapes today’s market.

Provenance, a good vintage, scarcity, and brand are all factors that influence the price of fine wine, and hence the world of wine investment. Another factor that has, traditionally, impacted wine value is the critic. A top score can inspire confidence in the price performance of a wine, while an unfavourable rating can have the opposite effect. 

However, is the role of the wine critic as important as it was in the past? With the retirement of the hegemonic world-renowned wine reviewer, Robert Parker, who helped put Bordeaux, California and the Rhône at the forefront of wine buyers’ minds, and the rise of digital media, what does the future hold?

WineCap met figures from leading Bordeaux estates for their insights into the place of wine criticism in 2025 and the years ahead. In Part I, we discuss the legacy and the evolving role of the wine critic.

  • Robert Parker’s era of singular influence is over – today’s wine criticism is a collective effort.
  • Critics still shape wine investment decisions, but their role is now one of many in a more democratic media landscape.
  • The rise of digital voices and ‘wine educators’ is expanding access and perspective in the fine wine world.

Wine criticism in transition: legacy vs digital influence

Several producers saw formal wine criticism as a keystone of information for customers, but also recognised that it was part of a developing media ecosystem largely because of the impact of the internet.

Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Jean-Luc Thunevin, owner of Château Valandraud, thinks the importance of the traditional wine critic remains important for his château as the legacy of Robert Parker endures.

‘Parker had a hegemonic position; that is, he represented 80% of global influence. Today, in any case, there are collaborators who worked for him, who are very talented and who, two or three years ago, represented Parker’s influence,’ Thunevin told WineCap. ‘We can say that today, when you are a wine merchant, we use five or six major journalists, and we get an idea of what the wine is worth.’

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

‘In terms of the impact of the wine critics on the fame of our wines, we are very respectful of the job of the critics,’ Pierre-Oliver Clouet, technical manager at Château Cheval Blanc, explained. ‘We produce wine, there are wine distributors there to distribute the wine, there are wine collectors that collect the wine, and there are wine critics, who have to critique the wine. So, everybody has their own job in the wine world.’

The vast and varied selection of wine makes the role of the critic key, with Clouet adding that ranking wine estates, vintages, appellations, countries, and regions is important for consumers. 

‘The impact of critics is so important for the final client because the number of wines available on the market is huge. You have to find the critique who has your taste, and you have to follow him or her. This is the job: to help the consumer, to know more about what they’re going to purchase’.

Château Clinet, Pomerol

Ronan Laborde, managing director and owner at Château Clinet, is adamant that professional criticism is still an important fixture in the wine world, but acknowledges that information is more accessible to collectors and laymen alike today than in decades past. ‘We still need wine critique. When Robert Parker was reviewing and ranking, there was less wine criticism, and the web was not so widespread. Nowadays, there continue to be a lot of highly respectable wine critics.’

Laborde added that clients also have opportunities to bolster critic ratings with their own first-hand experience. ‘There are a lot of people who are really interested in wine and have the chance to visit wineries, taste the wines, and import the wines. So, it’s easier nowadays to try and have your own opinion than before. Robert Parker was a reference at the time he was active, but nowadays, it’s more split.’

Wine critique landscape in 2025: complexity and change

Château Margaux, First Growth, Haut-Médoc

Philippe Bascaules, managing director at Château Margaux, had an open-minded perspective on the shifting, changing, landscape of wine critique, not jumping to any conclusive opinion on its direction for the time being.

‘We are in a time when it’s very difficult to know the direction of journalists and social media and all this new communication, and how the consumers will use all of it to buy wine,’ he said. ‘Of course, it used to be so simple. Today, it’s much more complex and I think probably it’s even a good evolution, I would say, because then it can be a little bit more diverse, and everyone can find his own advisor. I think we are in transition and will know later exactly where it will lead and what it will mean.’

Château Coutet, Premier Cru, Sauternes

Other producers echo this sentiment. At Château Coutet, marketing director Aline Baly appreciates the rise of ‘wine educators’ who help spread awareness about lesser-known properties. 

‘In the last decade, we’ve seen a lot of new wine critics, or I also like to call them “wine educators” because they’re helping us get the message out there,’ marketing director Aline Baly told WineCap. ‘Some of the vineyards in this region are very tiny. We can’t be everywhere. We can’t be travelling and opening our wines and describing these wines. So, the wine critics, or wine educators help us get the message out.’

Regarding the growing number of critics, Baly was enthusiastic. ‘There is definitely a change from having very few people who are the spokespeople for all the vineyards in the world to a larger group of individuals who’ve come to visit, who’ve tasted wines and helped us get the message out there.’

Why wine critics still matter: education and expertise

Château Calon-Ségur, Third Growth, Saint-Estèphe

‘At the time of the Primeurs, we host many journalists from France and around the world,’ general director and owner of Château Calon-Ségur Vincent Millet said. ‘Today we have about fifteen journalists who come to taste the Primeurs every year. But what is also interesting is that these are the same journalists who will taste the wines when they are bottled, or a few months after bottling. So, they have a vision of a very young wine and a wine that has been aged in barrels, as well as a few months after bottling.’

This educational insider experience was invaluable for consumers, he added. ‘Today, what is interesting to see is that journalists have a culture of wine, follow the properties, follow the history of the property, and in some ways, these same journalists become true authorities on our wines. Even if we work with the brokers and merchants, the consumer will still look at the notes and comments of these same journalists. It is important for us to be able to explain how we work and what our philosophy is so that journalists can better understand the wines when they taste them’.

From Parker to pluralism: collective influence in wine

Several producers agree: the days of one critic dominating the wine conversation are behind us.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

‘I don’t think that we will ever again see one critic have such a completely dominant position as Robert Parker had. It was an accident of history in many ways. He just started at the right time, in 1982, when America was discovering the great wines of Bordeaux, and became accepted as the utterly reliable guide that he was,’ explained Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Pichon-Baron. 

‘Today, there are many talented wine tasters and critics, and I think that it’s more of a collective influence. So, there will be perhaps a dozen really major critics who move the market, and I think on a collective basis, this is actually a much healthier thing. I think that for one person to have so much influence was probably slightly unbalanced and dangerous. These days, you can choose, as a consumer, from a number of very good critics and decide which ones you like best and follow them.’

Château La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

‘The time of the likes of Robert Parker is completely finished,’ said owner of Château La Mondotte Stéphane von Neipperg. ‘Now we will have perhaps five to ten well known wine critics for the consumer. So, it will be a much more open game. Parker was an important guy because he made what makes a good wine understandable for a lot of people. However, it is also good to have different opinions.’

Von Neipperg pointed to the 2021 vintage as an example of how critic viewpoints can vary significantly, supporting his view of the benefits of such diversity. ‘If you read about the ratings of 2021, there were sometimes five to ten points difference for the same wine.’

As Bordeaux and the broader wine world evolve, so too does the role of the critic – moving from singular gatekeeper to a chorus of trusted voices, guiding collectors, investors, and enthusiasts through an increasingly nuanced landscape.

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. 

Start your wine investment journey with WineCap’s expert guidance.

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Bordeaux En Primeur 2024: critic scores and best releases

  • There have been some notable releases in a quieter En Primeur campaign. 
  • All of the top releases have represented the best entry point into their respective brands in the last decade. 
  • Critics have emphasised selectivity in a challenging vintage.

One month in since the start of the Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur campaign, which seems to be nearing its end, we look at critic scores and price trends to evaluate the best releases.

What the critics are saying

After the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley called Bordeaux 2024 ‘the weakest vintage of the last decade’, other critics have echoed his concerns with greater nuance. 

For Jane Anson, ‘the vintage was better than expected […] and clearly better than, for example, 2013 – and 2021 in the best cases.’

Meanwhile, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) observed: ‘The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.’ His ‘magnificent eight’ were Beychevelle, Clos Puy Arnaud, Cos d’Estournel, Jean Faure, Larcis Ducasse, Lascombes, La Conseillante and Rauzan-Ségla.

Neal Martin concluded his report, arguing that 2024 is ‘the ideal vintage for a reset’. He noted that ‘given the obstacles placed along the growing season, any 2024 that scores above 90 points is a success’. Martin’s highest barrel range was 96-98 points for La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Among the reds, his top wines with 95-97 points were Lafite Rothschild, Trotanoy, Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan.

The state of the market

As Bordeaux continues to lose market share to other regions, and fine wine prices overall are in a correction phase, releasing En Primeur has only worked with heavy discounts. We spoke with leading producers on how they determine their release prices, with strategies ranging from consulting négociants  and importers, and weighing in volumes and vintage quality. 

In his report, Martin speaks of the following reality: ‘There is no saviour riding over the horizon, no emerging country of insatiable Bordeaux-lovers, all against a backdrop of a vine-pull scheme […] and the fact that Bordeaux is wrestling with an image crisis.’ 

The solution? He goes back to the beginning of his career, when ‘off-vintages in the mould of 2024 would be discounted, and […] nobody lost face, including the grandest châteaux, and crucially, it kept the primeur system flowing, bottles passing through the distribution chain to the all-important final consumer’.

Within this context, we look at the releases that have worked so far – where pricing has aligned with trade and consumer expectations, and has offered a window for long-term profitability. 

Best En Primeur releases to date

One of the standout releases of the campaign has been First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild.

The 2024 vintage emerged as the most attractively priced Lafite in recent memory. In fact, only one other vintage from the past 40 years comes within 25% of its release price. Even lower-rated vintages like 2013 and 2007 – both released before the transformative investments that elevated Lafite’s quality – now trade at considerably higher levels.

Much like Lafite, the 2024 Mouton Rothschild represents a rare opportunity. It is the best-priced Mouton vintage currently available on the market. Adjusted for inflation, only one other vintage in the last two decades compares in affordability. 

Moreover, Mouton has been the best-performing First Growth over the last five years, while also being Wine-Searcher’s most searched-for wine globally. 

History shows that these ‘less celebrated’ vintages often outperform their more hyped counterparts. For both Lafite and Mouton, vintages such as 2007, 2008, 2013, and 2014 have significantly outpaced the more acclaimed 2009, 2010, or 2016 in price performance.

Another notable performer is Calon Ségur. While it may have flown slightly under the radar, its 2024 release represents the best entry point into the brand in over a decade. Calon has built a strong reputation among critics, frequently earning 95+ scores from Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Its investment credentials are equally impressive: between 2015 and 2023, Calon prices surged more than 80%. Even with recent market dips, our Calon Ségur index remains 75% higher than it was ten years ago – making it one of Bordeaux’s most dynamic performers.

Looking for more? Read our Bordeaux Regional Report.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines from the Southwold tasting

Southwold wine tasting
  • Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 from the annual Southwold tasting.
  • Martin placed the 2020 vintage ahead of the 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022.
  • With 99 points, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was Martin’s top-scoring wine. 

The annual Southwold tasting presents major critics with the opportunity to blind taste a Bordeaux vintage four years on in peer groups, mostly within appellations. 

Last week, Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 – a vintage ‘born in a tumultuous world,’ due to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, the critic argued that it bestowed ‘Bordeaux-lovers with a bevy of outstanding wines that should stand the test of time.’ 

Neal Martin’s thoughts on Bordeaux 2020

Martin described the dry whites as a ‘little hit-and-miss’ and the Sauternes as ‘very good rather than excellent.’ When it comes to the reds, however, the critic said that they ‘are going to give a great deal of pleasure.’

In terms of vintage comparisons, Martin placed 2020 ahead of 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022, which were more ‘crammed with legends in the making’. He wrote: ‘Perhaps 2020 doesn’t quite possess the vaulting ambition of those two vintages, though in some cases, it surpasses the best of both.’

His favourite appellation was Saint-Julien, which ‘raised the bar with a cluster of outstanding wines.’ The critic argued that this flight ‘solidified 2020 as a bona fide great vintage on the Left Bank.’ He described Margaux as ‘solid,’ with the ‘real superstar’ being the First Growth.

From Saint-Estèphe, Martin highlighted Montrose as ‘the standout of the appellation,’ with the biggest surprise being the 2020 Phélan Ségur, ‘one of the best values given its reasonable price.’

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines

Due to the nature of the Southwold blind tasting – wines grouped by appellation – Martin’s scores were ‘a little lower than when [he] encountered these wines at the end of 2022’.

His top-scoring wine, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, received 99 points. He described it as ‘a fabulous Pauillac that flirts with perfection.’ 

The rest of the wines in the top ten received 98 points. The highest-scored First Growth was Margaux, which the critic claimed was ‘among the greatest wines of the 2020 vintage.’ The ‘captivating’ and ‘mesmerising’ Cheval Blanc also scored among the best wines from the vintage. So did Trotanoy (‘an outstanding Pomerol’), and Canon (‘God made wine so it can taste as good as this’).

Investing in Bordeaux 2020

All of Martin’s top 2020 wines have fallen in value since release, apart from Trotanoy. 

This is partly because of the overall market direction in the last two years, but also due to the availability of older and in some cases higher-rated vintages available at a discount.

As Martin rightly noted, ‘the top wines in this report not only compete against each other, but also with themselves in terms of alternative available vintages.’

The lower-than-average prices at the moment, however, present great buying opportunities, especially for brands with a positive long-term performance. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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James Suckling’s top wines of 2024

James Suckling 2024 top wine Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
  • American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list.
  • His wine of the year is Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015. 
  • Italy dominates the rankings followed by France and the US.

American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list, along with his wine of the year. The highest accolade went to Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015, which according to the critic, is a classical wine that embodies ‘the greatness of time and place’.

Regional distribution

Suckling and his team tasted and rated over 40,000 different wines over the past twelve months. The majority were from Italy, which accounted for over 9,100 of the reviewed wines, followed closely by France with 9,000, the US with 6,800, Spain – 3,800, Argentina – 2,300, Germany – 2,000, Australia – 1,700, and Chile nearly 1,550. They also tasted wines from other regions worldwide including Greece, Hungary, Canada and Uruguay.

Italy also dominated the list of their favourites, featuring with 26 wines in the top 100, followed by France (18), the United States (15), Germany (12), Argentina (6), Spain (6), Chile (6), Australia (5), Austria (4), South Africa (1) and China (1).

Suckling’s top 10 wines of 2024

James Suckling’s wine of the year is the 2015 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, which he described as ‘full-bodied and elegant on the palate due to ripe, filigree tannins with long acidity and a toasty, savory aftertaste’. He called it ‘one of the great Amarones’ and gave it a 100-point score.

James Suckling top wine scores 2024

The top wines of the year were chosen on the basis of quality, price, and what Suckling calls the “wow factor,” an emotional impact a wine can have on the drinker. Most wines on the list scored between 97 and 100 points, with nine wines priced between $30 and $60 (£23 and £46), emphasising affordability alongside quality. Wines on the list were required to have a minimum production of 5,000 bottles, with a median price below $500 (£385).

Regional standouts

Germany had a standout year in 2023, particularly for its dry Riesling, with the Künstler Riesling Rheingau Hölle GG 2023 ranking second on the list and exemplifying the structured, balanced nature of this vintage.

Austria continued to gain critical recognition, especially for its white wines, with F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Kellerberg 2023 taking the third spot. 

China was also present on the list with Ao Yun Shangri-La 2020, a wine from Moët Hennessy’s Yunnan winery, signaling the country’s growing role in the fine wine market.

Accessibility and value

Suckling noted that many of his favourite wines offer high quality at accessible price points. The focus on value addresses current concerns about the market’s downturn. For example, the wine that took the second spot is priced around $65 (£50), while Italian whites such as the Manincor Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige Tannenberg 2022 are available for approximately $40 (£31).

Emerging trends

Suckling’s report further highlights an increasing interest in German and Austrian wines, especially among younger consumers, due to their quality and value. Events like Suckling’s Great Wines series, held across major cities globally, have drawn over 21,000 attendees this year. With wines from more established to emerging wine regions, Suckling’s 2024 list provides a guide to the critic’s top picks from across the globe.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux En Primeur 2023: under pressure

Château Beychevelle Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
  • Bordeaux 2023 largely met trade expectations for reduced pricing but only some releases have stood out as offering fantastic value. 
  • Price cuts slowed towards the end of the campaign, from 27.4% average discount in week one, to 23.3% in week four.  
  • Bordeaux’s ability to adapt does not only matter for its short-term sales but also for its long-term relevance in a highly competitive market.

Over the last month, our news coverage centered around the ongoing Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, examining critic scores and the investment potential of the new releases. 

Prior to the start of the campaign, Bordeaux châteaux faced considerable pressure from the trade to reduce release prices. Price cuts of around 30% were expected. In some cases, these expectations were met, with reductions of up to 40%. 

Now that the campaign is coming to a close, we weigh its success, considering the current state of Bordeaux’s investment market. 

En Primeur 2023 – back in vogue?

Critics of En Primeur contend that the system no longer meets buyer expectations, and the 2023 vintage wanted to rise to the challenge of defying the norm.

Partially it did. Wines like Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Petit Mouton, Beychevelle, Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion delivered value and were met with high demand. 

Liv-ex reported immediate trades on its exchange for some of the releases. A developing secondary market is a positive sign for investors, although both Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild 2023 changed hands below their opening levels. 

According to Liv-ex, ‘it is clear there continues to be a market for Bordeaux En Primeur at the right price. What that price is, is perhaps less clear and will not always be agreed upon’.

The En Primeur golden rule  

For investors, an En Primeur release needs to be the most affordable wine among vintages with comparable scores to make sense. Where that isn’t the case, one should be cautious when buying. 

‘Our golden rule is the En Primeur price is the cheapest you can get. You can’t get anything cheaper. Generally speaking, it’s reasonably successful, not to say 100% successful, and then the price goes up.’ – Philippe Blanc, Château Beychevelle

‘En Primeur should be forever the lowest price you can find in your bottle. If you purchase later, it’s going to be more difficult to find and it’s going to be more expensive.’ – Pierre-Olivier Clouet, Château Cheval Blanc

The price decrease trajectory

The average price reduction among the top wines released in the first week of the campaign was 27.4%, going as low as 40% discount on the previous year.

In the fourth week of the campaign, this trajectory of offers slowed down. The average discount was reduced to 23.2%, the most significant being Château La Fleur-Pétrus 2023, down 33.6%, and the least significant, Beychevelle (-11.1%).

However, even though Beychevelle has seen one of the smallest discounts, it has still been one of the best value releases this campaign.

Beychevelle En Primeur 2023 Prices

The Bordeaux market slowdown

The pressure to reduce release pricing was largely owing to the current market environment. 

Over the past two years, Bordeaux prices are down 12%. Over the past five years, Bordeaux is one of the slowest growing markets, up 2.1%, considerably lagging behind Burgundy (25.2%), Italy (31.2%) and Champagne (45.5%). 

The market for top Bordeaux has suffered the most. First Growth prices are down 17.3% in the last two years, and 3.7% in the last five years.

Bordeaux En Primeur 2023 Prices

The region is also losing market share to its contenders. In 2023, Bordeaux accounted for 40% of the trade by value on Liv-ex compared to 60% in 2018.

This is further exacerbated by slowing demand. Liv-ex noted that today ‘there is more than three times as much Bordeaux for sale than the fine wine market is looking to absorb’.

The need to adapt

The 2023 En Primeur campaign has unfolded under the shadow of mounting pressure for Bordeaux to realign with market demands. The campaign highlighted the critical balance Bordeaux must maintain: offering wines at attractive prices for everyone in the chain. 

Successful examples from this year’s campaign, where price cuts coincided with high demand, underscore the potential for Bordeaux to adapt. However, the slower reduction rates towards the campaign’s end and varied responses from buyers reflect the ongoing debate about the optimal pricing strategy.

Ultimately, as Bordeaux grapples with these challenges, the 2023 En Primeur has underscored the importance of responsiveness to market dynamics. The region’s ability to adjust will not only determine its short-term sales but also its long-term relevance in a highly competitive and ever-evolving global wine market.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today. 

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Jeb Dunnuck on Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Chateau Montrose 2023
  • According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’.
  • He described most wines as ‘ripe yet not massive with more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.
  • Château Montrose received his highest barrel range of 97-100 points.

According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’. In his latest report, the critic delves into the growing season that shaped the vintage, comparisons with previous years, the En Primeur tastings and the current market for buying the new releases. Below we summarise his key findings. 

A heterogeneous vintage

An erratic growing season led to a divergence of styles between sub-regions and even neighbouring châteaux. Bordeaux 2023 witnessed ‘an incredibly successful flowering, huge mildew pressure in the spring, a slightly uninspiring summer that lacked sunlight, sporadic and very localised storms, and a heatwave at the end of August and September that sped up ripening and, according to many, saved the vintage’.

In terms of vintage comparisons, ‘some of the wines have a certain 2019-like sunny, easygoing style, while others can have a cooler, more structured, almost austere profile similar to 2020’. The common themes, according to the critic, are the ‘fully ripe aromatics and more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.

A Left Bank vintage?

Jeb Dunnuck pointed out that ‘at a high level, the Merlot is much riper and more opulent, and the Cabernets are slightly fresher and vibrant’. He suggested that the Left Bank had the upper hand in 2023, saying that ‘while there are unquestionably impressive wines from the Right Bank, the top Médoc and Graves seem to have another level of harmony and overall balance’.

In terms of overall quality and style, Dunnuck argued that Bordeaux 2023 ‘surpasses 2014, 2017, and 2021 yet is a solid step back from the incredible trio of 2018 through 2020, and most likely will be surpassed by 2022 as well’.

Jeb Dunnuck’s favourite Bordeaux 2023 wines

Dunnuck found potential for perfection in three wines, awarding a barrel range of up to 100 points. Château Montrose got his highest score (97-100), and he noted that ‘it has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage’.

Among the First Growths, only Château Margaux came close to perfection, with the critic saying that ‘it is clearly one of the greats in the vintage, and it actually reminds me a touch of the 1996, if not better’.

Regarding the 2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Dunnuck remarked that ‘the overall balance paired with opulence here is something to behold, and it’s incredible to find this level of quality in the vintage’.

Jeb Dunnuck Bordeaux 2023

Should you buy Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur?

Dunnuck outlines four main reasons why you should buy a vintage En Primeur: ‘1) If it is a great vintage; 2) If the wines are expected to increase in price; 3) If quantities are limited; and 4) If you are buying wines in formats other than 750-milliliter bottles’.

He defined 2023 as a ‘a borderline case’. While ‘it’s not a truly great vintage […] there are a handful of gems in the vintage that will rival the best from 2016, 2018, 2019, and 2020,’ the critic said.

In terms of pricing, he observed that it seemed to ‘be coming back to 2019 levels’, still he reckoned that ‘the time of substantial early gains from purchasing En Primeur has largely sailed’.

Our En Primeur offers only highlight wines that present great value for money in the context of the market prices for vintages currently available on the market. These are wines that hold significant potential for future price appreciation, and where the scores match the price. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Mouton Rothschild 2023
  • According to Neal Martin (Vinous), Bordeaux 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage riddled with paradoxes.
  • Only one wine achieved his highest score of 98-100 points – L’Eglise Clinet.
  • Martin suggested that ‘deep [price] cuts’ are needed for the campaign to work.

 Now that the En Primeur campaign has kicked off, critics have started releasing their Bordeaux 2023 in-barrel scores. Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of this ‘Dalmatian’ vintage, characterised by ‘spots of astounding quality’ but also ‘all manner of shortcomings’ – even in some of the region’s most famous names.

Bordeaux 2023 vintage overview

‘A season riddled with paradoxes,’ Neal Martin described Bordeaux 2023 as a heterogeneous vintage. According to him, it ‘would sit uncomfortably on a mantelpiece alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022’. However, the critic acknowledged that ‘some châteaux pulled out magical wines from their top hat, surpassing those aforementioned years in one or two cases’.

The keyword that defined 2023 is ‘classicism’, meaning ‘lower alcohol levels in the 13-something range,’ without the opulence of previous vintages.

Martin further noted that ‘the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s’. He continued: ‘The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense’.

Overall, Martin claimed that ‘despite the disparity in quality, it cannot be denied that it is bejewelled with a clutch of spellbinding wines’.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines can be seen in the table below. Only one wine achieved the maximum barrel range of 98-100 points – the 2023 L’Eglise Clinet. Martin said that ‘it’s very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish’.

Three wines received a barrel range of 97-99 points: Margaux, Lafleur and Le Pin. In his tasting note, Martin called the First Growth a ‘quintessential Château Margaux’ but noted that it ‘will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of’.

Regarding Lafleur, he said it was ‘one of the few profound wines this vintage’. He described Le Pin as ‘so pure and refined, it seems to embrace and gently hug the senses’.

En Primeur and the global market

Despite the virtues of the vintage, the question of whether it will present value is pertinent in the current economic climate. For Martin, the ‘newborn wines blink open their eyes to survey a bleak economic landscape and finger-pointing between various factions as to who’s to blame’. He said that ‘deep cuts, not gestures, are the only thing that will open wallets’.

This week’s first releases have seen discounts of up to 40% on last year. However, back vintages of similar quality that remain available for less continue to challenge the En Primeur tradition.

Stay tuned for our analysis of the best value releases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Ten years on: Neal Martin reviews Bordeaux 2014

Bordeaux
  • Neal Martin recently reviewed Bordeaux 2014 ten years on.
  • The critic noted that many of the wines have evolved faster than expected.
  • He declared it a Left Bank vintage and gave his highest score to Mouton Rothschild.

Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2014 following two consecutive tastings, including the annual Southwold 10-years-on event.

Martin’s overall impression was that the wines were ‘more unpredictable than other vintages’, and ones to ‘approach with modest expectations’. For him, many of them deserve drinking in the near future, but some are yet to deliver more.

On the question of Left vs Right Bank, the critic noted that the Left Bank has proven to be more consistent. When it comes to best-performing appellations, his pick was Saint-Julien.

Bordeaux 2014 ageing potential

Ten years on, the 2014 vintage has ‘evolved faster than envisaged’, according to Martin. The critic said that ‘it twinkled brightly in its youth, but many of its alumni were not predisposed toward longevity’. He further noted that ‘it certainly lacks the legs of, say, 2010 or 2016, perhaps even 2012 or 2017’.

Martin singled out wines that still have a life ahead of them and will be ‘intriguing to revisit at 15 years’, including Léoville Poyferré, Mouton Rothschild, Lafleur and Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

Favourite wines

For Martin, the wines that have ‘much more to offer’ and sit ‘up the hierarchy’ were Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Ausone and Pavie. ‘L’Eglise-Clinet, Lafleur and in particular, Vieux Château Certan, excel over in Pomerol, likewise Petrus and Clos l’Eglise,’ the critic added.

However, he warned that ‘none of the aforementioned ranks among their best wines’.

A personal favourite from Pessac-Léognan was Domaine de Chevalier. He also liked Pape-Clément and Haut-Bailly. His top-scoring wines can be seen in the table below.

Neal Martin's top-scoring Bordeaux 2014 wines

Mouton Rothschild received the highest score of 97 points. Martin argued that it was ‘contender for wine of the vintage’ and ‘one of a handful of wines that transcends the limitations of the season, partly due to the skills of former winemaker Philippe Dhalluin’.

The critic also said that ‘the 2014 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is outstanding and performed neck-and-neck with the First Growths’.

Bordeaux 2014 – performance since release

While the vintage may not sit up with the very best like 2010 or 2016, many of the wines offer relative value and a lower-than-average entry point into Bordeaux’s top brands.

Moreover, some have delivered handsome returns since release. Beyond the obvious performers of Carruades de Lafite (208.3%) and Petit Mouton (173.1%) and wines like Figeac (164.5%) which have benefited from changing classification, there is considerable growth to be found in some 2014s. For instance, Beychevelle has risen 165.4%, Calon Ségur – 113.4%, La Conseillante – 93.0%, and Canon-La Gaffelière – 80.3%. To see overall brand performances, visit Wine Track.

Bordeaux 2014 performance since release

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Wine Advocate releases Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

Bordeaux 2021
  • Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle.
  • According to the report, the best producers ‘especially those working with the best terroirs […] have produced some excellent wines’.
  • Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and Montrose were the highest-scoring wines of the vintage, receiving 97 points.

Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle based on his tastings, alongside his colleague Yohan Castaing. Kelley’s in-bottle verdict confirms his En Primeur assessment of this variable vintage.

A farmers’ vintage

Kelley wrote that the results were mixed, but ‘the best farmers, especially those working with the best terroirs and armed with the resources to take risks and make a strict selection, have produced some excellent wines’.

2021 is largely seen as a ‘farmers’ vintage’. According to Kelley, ‘the best 2021s are beautiful wines that exemplify how much technical progress Bordeaux has made over the last decade in the vineyards and in the winery’.

He attributes the best results to nurture over nature; however, this ‘doesn’t change the results in the glass’.

Vintage comparisons

Due to the heterogeneous nature of the 2021s, stylistic comparisons with back vintages are harder to make. For Kelley, ‘many wines are supple and charming, reminiscent of a modern-day version of the 1999 vintage: the perfect “restaurant vintage,” if one forgets their price’.

He added that ‘some of the best northern Médoc reds, with their serious, intensely Cabernet Sauvignon-driven personalities, evoke the 1996 vintage; whereas the Right Bank’s best 2021s are more sensual and seductive’.

When it comes to pricing, many 2021s are now available below their release price, making them an attractive investment proposition where quality is high.

The best Bordeaux 2021s

Kelley highlighted Cheval Blanc (97), Figeac (96+), Haut-Brion (97), Léoville-Las Cases (96+) and Montrose (97) as his wines of the vintage.

For Castaing, the 2021 First Growth reflects ‘the timeless elegance of Haut-Brions from cooler years [and] will delight Bordeaux purists’.

When it comes to Cheval Blanc, Kelley revealed that ‘director Pierre-Olivier Clouet even considers it to be superior to the 2020, a preference that I share’. The 2021 is one of the most affordable recent vintages from the estate.

The other highest-scoring wine, Montrose, got Kelley’s ‘nomination for the title of “wine of the vintage” in the Médoc’. The critic said it ‘entirely transcends the limitations of the year’.

Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

Full report and tasting notes are available on the Wine Advocate’s website.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The place of the Bordeaux First Growths in a changing fine wine market

  • Once the dominant force in the fine wine market, the Bordeaux First Growths have lost market share due to its broadening.
  • In the last decade, Château Mouton Rothschild has been the best price performer, up 43.2%.
  • Château Haut-Brion offers the best value, with the highest average critic score and the lowest average price per case.

The Bordeaux First Growths in a broadening market

The Bordeaux First Growths have long been the cornerstone of the fine wine investment market. Back in 2010, they made up close to 90% of all Bordeaux trade by value – at a time, when Bordeaux’s share of the total market stood at 96%.

With the broadening of the market, their share has decreased and they now regularly account for around 30% of all Bordeaux secondary market trade (which itself has fallen below 35% annual average).

This trend was also reflected in the 2022 Power 100 list, which offered a snapshot of the ever-changing landscape of the secondary market. For the first time ever, no Bordeaux wines featured among the top ten most powerful fine wine labels.

Even if trade for these brands remains consistent or increases, the First Growths are facing greater competition. Still, they are among the wines with the greatest liquidity, attracting regular demand and high praise from critics year after year.

First Growths’ price performance

In terms of price performance, the five First Growths have followed a similar trajectory (i.e. rising post-Covid and dipping in the last year in line with the current market reality). The relative outcast has been Château Latour, whose performance was impacted by the decision to leave the En Primeur system in 2012. The wine has been the worst-performing First Growth, up just 17.9% in the last decade.

The best performer has been Château Mouton Rothschild, with an increase of 43.2%. Recent releases have elevated the performance of the brand, like the 2020 vintage, which boasts 100-points from The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley, 99-100 from James Suckling, 98-100 from Jeff Leve and 99 from Antonio Galloni (Vinous). ‘Off’ vintages like 2011, 2013 and 2014, which have greater room to rise, have also fared well over the last five years.

The second-best performer has been Château Margaux, which is also the second most affordable First Growth. Similarly, its biggest price risers have been 2014, 2011 and 2013. Less classical years reveal the strength of these brands, as demand for the First Growths remains consistently high regardless of the vintage.

First Growths’ price and score comparison

The table below shows the average price per case and critic score of the First Growths for vintages since 2000.

Château Haut-Brion tops the list with the highest average score (95.9) and the lowest average price per case (£4,595). With a price per point of £48, the wine seems to offer the best value among the First Growths. Vintages that have received 100-points from The Wine Advocate include 2018 (LPB), 2016 (LPB), 2015 (LPB), 2009 (LPB) and 2005 (RP).

Looking at the average prices, Château Lafite Rothschild stands out as the most expensive of the First Growths. The wine has achieved 100-points from The Wine Advocate for its 2019 (WK), 2018 (LPB), 2010 (LPB) and 2003 (RP) vintages.

In conclusion, the First Growths remain an important part of the changing secondary market, offering brand strength, consistently high quality and stable growth.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.