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Do wine critics still matter in 2025? Bordeaux Diaries Part I

Discover how wine critics influence Bordeaux wine investment in 2025 and whether Robert Parker’s legacy still shapes today’s market.

Provenance, a good vintage, scarcity, and brand are all factors that influence the price of fine wine, and hence the world of wine investment. Another factor that has, traditionally, impacted wine value is the critic. A top score can inspire confidence in the price performance of a wine, while an unfavourable rating can have the opposite effect. 

However, is the role of the wine critic as important as it was in the past? With the retirement of the hegemonic world-renowned wine reviewer, Robert Parker, who helped put Bordeaux, California and the Rhône at the forefront of wine buyers’ minds, and the rise of digital media, what does the future hold?

WineCap met figures from leading Bordeaux estates for their insights into the place of wine criticism in 2025 and the years ahead. In Part I, we discuss the legacy and the evolving role of the wine critic.

  • Robert Parker’s era of singular influence is over – today’s wine criticism is a collective effort.
  • Critics still shape wine investment decisions, but their role is now one of many in a more democratic media landscape.
  • The rise of digital voices and ‘wine educators’ is expanding access and perspective in the fine wine world.

Wine criticism in transition: legacy vs digital influence

Several producers saw formal wine criticism as a keystone of information for customers, but also recognised that it was part of a developing media ecosystem largely because of the impact of the internet.

Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Jean-Luc Thunevin, owner of Château Valandraud, thinks the importance of the traditional wine critic remains important for his château as the legacy of Robert Parker endures.

‘Parker had a hegemonic position; that is, he represented 80% of global influence. Today, in any case, there are collaborators who worked for him, who are very talented and who, two or three years ago, represented Parker’s influence,’ Thunevin told WineCap. ‘We can say that today, when you are a wine merchant, we use five or six major journalists, and we get an idea of what the wine is worth.’

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

‘In terms of the impact of the wine critics on the fame of our wines, we are very respectful of the job of the critics,’ Pierre-Oliver Clouet, technical manager at Château Cheval Blanc, explained. ‘We produce wine, there are wine distributors there to distribute the wine, there are wine collectors that collect the wine, and there are wine critics, who have to critique the wine. So, everybody has their own job in the wine world.’

The vast and varied selection of wine makes the role of the critic key, with Clouet adding that ranking wine estates, vintages, appellations, countries, and regions is important for consumers. 

‘The impact of critics is so important for the final client because the number of wines available on the market is huge. You have to find the critique who has your taste, and you have to follow him or her. This is the job: to help the consumer, to know more about what they’re going to purchase’.

Château Clinet, Pomerol

Ronan Laborde, managing director and owner at Château Clinet, is adamant that professional criticism is still an important fixture in the wine world, but acknowledges that information is more accessible to collectors and laymen alike today than in decades past. ‘We still need wine critique. When Robert Parker was reviewing and ranking, there was less wine criticism, and the web was not so widespread. Nowadays, there continue to be a lot of highly respectable wine critics.’

Laborde added that clients also have opportunities to bolster critic ratings with their own first-hand experience. ‘There are a lot of people who are really interested in wine and have the chance to visit wineries, taste the wines, and import the wines. So, it’s easier nowadays to try and have your own opinion than before. Robert Parker was a reference at the time he was active, but nowadays, it’s more split.’

Wine critique landscape in 2025: complexity and change

Château Margaux, First Growth, Haut-Médoc

Philippe Bascaules, managing director at Château Margaux, had an open-minded perspective on the shifting, changing, landscape of wine critique, not jumping to any conclusive opinion on its direction for the time being.

‘We are in a time when it’s very difficult to know the direction of journalists and social media and all this new communication, and how the consumers will use all of it to buy wine,’ he said. ‘Of course, it used to be so simple. Today, it’s much more complex and I think probably it’s even a good evolution, I would say, because then it can be a little bit more diverse, and everyone can find his own advisor. I think we are in transition and will know later exactly where it will lead and what it will mean.’

Château Coutet, Premier Cru, Sauternes

Other producers echo this sentiment. At Château Coutet, marketing director Aline Baly appreciates the rise of ‘wine educators’ who help spread awareness about lesser-known properties. 

‘In the last decade, we’ve seen a lot of new wine critics, or I also like to call them “wine educators” because they’re helping us get the message out there,’ marketing director Aline Baly told WineCap. ‘Some of the vineyards in this region are very tiny. We can’t be everywhere. We can’t be travelling and opening our wines and describing these wines. So, the wine critics, or wine educators help us get the message out.’

Regarding the growing number of critics, Baly was enthusiastic. ‘There is definitely a change from having very few people who are the spokespeople for all the vineyards in the world to a larger group of individuals who’ve come to visit, who’ve tasted wines and helped us get the message out there.’

Why wine critics still matter: education and expertise

Château Calon-Ségur, Third Growth, Saint-Estèphe

‘At the time of the Primeurs, we host many journalists from France and around the world,’ general director and owner of Château Calon-Ségur Vincent Millet said. ‘Today we have about fifteen journalists who come to taste the Primeurs every year. But what is also interesting is that these are the same journalists who will taste the wines when they are bottled, or a few months after bottling. So, they have a vision of a very young wine and a wine that has been aged in barrels, as well as a few months after bottling.’

This educational insider experience was invaluable for consumers, he added. ‘Today, what is interesting to see is that journalists have a culture of wine, follow the properties, follow the history of the property, and in some ways, these same journalists become true authorities on our wines. Even if we work with the brokers and merchants, the consumer will still look at the notes and comments of these same journalists. It is important for us to be able to explain how we work and what our philosophy is so that journalists can better understand the wines when they taste them’.

From Parker to pluralism: collective influence in wine

Several producers agree: the days of one critic dominating the wine conversation are behind us.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

‘I don’t think that we will ever again see one critic have such a completely dominant position as Robert Parker had. It was an accident of history in many ways. He just started at the right time, in 1982, when America was discovering the great wines of Bordeaux, and became accepted as the utterly reliable guide that he was,’ explained Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Pichon-Baron

‘Today, there are many talented wine tasters and critics, and I think that it’s more of a collective influence. So, there will be perhaps a dozen really major critics who move the market, and I think on a collective basis, this is actually a much healthier thing. I think that for one person to have so much influence was probably slightly unbalanced and dangerous. These days, you can choose, as a consumer, from a number of very good critics and decide which ones you like best and follow them.’

Château La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

‘The time of the likes of Robert Parker is completely finished,’ said owner of Château La Mondotte Stéphane von Neipperg. ‘Now we will have perhaps five to ten well known wine critics for the consumer. So, it will be a much more open game. Parker was an important guy because he made what makes a good wine understandable for a lot of people. However, it is also good to have different opinions.’

Von Neipperg pointed to the 2021 vintage as an example of how critic viewpoints can vary significantly, supporting his view of the benefits of such diversity. ‘If you read about the ratings of 2021, there were sometimes five to ten points difference for the same wine.’

As Bordeaux and the broader wine world evolve, so too does the role of the critic – moving from singular gatekeeper to a chorus of trusted voices, guiding collectors, investors, and enthusiasts through an increasingly nuanced landscape.

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. 

Start your wine investment journey with WineCap’s expert guidance.

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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Burgundy 2022: a promising vintage in a challenging market

  • The 2022 vintage boasts high quality and quantity – ‘the largest crop in 23 years’.
  • It is being launched in a downward market, following ten months of consistent price declines.
  • As demand has tempered and stock has (re-)entered the market, the success of the upcoming releases will largely depend on pricing.

Burgundy’s 2022 vintage is being launched in a downward market, following ten months of consistent price declines. The success of the upcoming releases will largely depend on pricing, but will its quality and quantity have the potential to turn the tables?

Critical opinions on Burgundy 2022

Critic reports thus far have been overwhelmingly positive, applauding both the quality and the quantity of the vintage. 2022 marks the largest crop in 23 years, with some producers seeing double the yields of the previous year. According to Matthew Hayes (JancisRobinson.com), ‘across the whole of Burgundy, 2022 offered a whopping 75.4% more wine (red, white and crémant) compared with 2021’.

Contrary to expectations, the vintage produced wines with typicity, purity, and freshness despite the extreme weather. Hayes commented that ‘2022 was the second-hottest year that the Côte d’Or has endured this century and should logically have followed in the footsteps of the equally stifling solaire years of 2019 and 2020, producing wines with rich, deep fruit profiles and vibrant acidities to ensure long life but […] the wines show a generally impeccable balance of tidy, ripe fruit, discreet acidity and equally (and mostly) refined tannins’.

Hayes revealed that ‘the best-sited and best-rooted vines appeared to have coped well with the heat and in the Côte d’Or the excellence of the top premiers and grands crus shines clearly’.

The prevailing opinion is that 2022 is an excellent year for white wines, reminiscent of 2017 and 2020. Meanwhile, tasting notes from the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits highlighted dense red wines with well-integrated tannins, simultaneously offering elegance and concentration. The wines are expected to be approachable in youth but with significant ageing potential.

However, the market onto which they are released is just as important as the releases themselves.

The current market for Burgundy

In October 2022, the Liv-ex Burgundy 150 index reached an unprecedented peak, marking a staggering 809.4% increase since its inception in December 2003. Twenty years later, Burgundy remains the best-performing fine wine region.

However, since its peak, prices have tumbled 17.4%. This decline has been attributed to various macroeconomic factors that led to a shift in investor sentiment. As the economic landscape became more uncertain, fine wine buyers have grown increasingly risk-averse, causing a contraction in demand for more volatile investments.

This trend was particularly pronounced in Burgundy, which had soared too high across the whole spectrum. At these stratospheric prices, the market saw more sellers than buyers, with investors keen to liquidate their stock. Top-tier Burgundy (re-)entered the market as sellers were looking to make gains.

This perception of increased risk and a preference for stability among investors led to a decrease in Burgundy’s trade share by value. The falling prices further exacerbated this trend.

Burgundy fine wine prices

The market conditions present a challenging backdrop for the high-quality high-quantity Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign. Will the excitement of the new be enough to stimulate demand?

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The role of wine ratings in fine wine investment

  • Wine ratings play a crucial role in wine investment, with high scores from influential critics impacting demand and market value.
  • To use ratings effectively, investors should consider both the initial score and potential for growth.
  • The Wine Track score provides a broader view of a wine’s quality across multiple vintages and publications, helping investors assess wines at a glance.

For many investors, fine wine offers a fascinating, enjoyable, and potentially profitable venture. However, the wine market is highly nuanced, requiring a keen understanding of various factors influencing wine values. One such factor, critical to successful wine investment, is the wine rating system. This score, given by wine critics to a particular bottle or vintage, can dramatically impact its market value and demand.

Wine ratings, typically on a 100-point scale, offer a quantitative measure of the wine’s quality. The ratings of influential critics such as Robert Parker, Neal Martin and Wine Spectator can have a significant impact on the market value of a wine. This is why savvy investors pay close attention to these scores, as they can quickly identify high potential investments.

The power and influence of ratings

However, it’s not enough to simply buy wines with high ratings. The rating system is far more nuanced, with the potential for dramatic shifts in a wine’s rating over time. A wine may be rated in its youth, then again as it matures. In some cases, a wine’s rating may increase as it develops, making it an excellent investment if purchased early. Conversely, a wine that doesn’t mature as expected can see its rating (and value) drop.

How critics have moved the wine market

Some historical examples illustrate the power that critics wield in the wine investment market:

  • Robert Parker and the 1982 Bordeaux vintage: Parker’s high scores for the 1982 Bordeaux wines went against the grain of other critics, and as the wines matured and proved him right, their market values soared.
  • James Suckling and Super Tuscan wines: Suckling’s high scores and positive reviews in the 1980s and 90s for these non-traditional Italian wines helped elevate their status and market prices.
  • Jancis Robinson and Austrian wines: Robinson’s praise for the quality and complexity of wines from Austria increased their international profile and market value.
  • Robert Parker and Napa Valley: Parker’s positive reviews of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends in the 1990s contributed to increased demand and higher prices for these wines.
  • Wines Spectator’s Wine of the Year: Wine Spectator, one of the most influential wine publications globally, selects its “Wine of the Year” based on quality, value, availability, and an X-factor they call “excitement.” The wine usually becomes a hot commodity in the secondary market, breaking all-time trading record within the day of the announcement, like Marques Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 in 2020.

Knowing the critics and selling wine

To use ratings effectively, investors should consider both the initial score and potential for growth. Some wines, especially those from renowned producers in prestigious regions like Bordeaux or Burgundy, are consistently well-rated and have a history of aging well. However, there are also opportunities to find “sleeper” wines – those with moderate initial ratings that improve significantly over time.

A key part of understanding and using wine ratings is understanding the critics. Each has a different palate and preference, and their ratings reflect these tastes. Robert Parker, for instance, was known for favouring bold, robust wines from Bordeaux, California, and the Rhône. However, since Parker’s retirement, the wine criticism landscape has been undergoing a gradual shift, reflecting changing consumer preferences and a growing appreciation for diversity in wine styles, such as lighter and lower-alcohol wines.

The Wine Track score – ratings at a glance

Now it is also possible to access a brand’s average score thanks to the Wine Track score. The Wine Track score provides a broader view of a wine’s quality across multiple vintages, which can be particularly useful for potential investors seeking a more comprehensive evaluation of a wine’s investment potential.

It aggregates multiple wine vintages of a wine to create a score out of 100. It unifies more than 100 wine critics’ scores from 12 global publications that use different methodologies. By providing a combined score, it helps investors assess wines on the fine wine market at a glance.

In conclusion, while wine ratings are not the sole determinant of a wine’s investment potential, they play an integral part in the wine investment strategy. With careful consideration and a well-rounded understanding of the wine market, investors can utilise these ratings to guide their purchases and optimise their portfolios.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.