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Do wine critics still matter in 2025? Bordeaux Diaries Part I

Discover how wine critics influence Bordeaux wine investment in 2025 and whether Robert Parker’s legacy still shapes today’s market.

Provenance, a good vintage, scarcity, and brand are all factors that influence the price of fine wine, and hence the world of wine investment. Another factor that has, traditionally, impacted wine value is the critic. A top score can inspire confidence in the price performance of a wine, while an unfavourable rating can have the opposite effect. 

However, is the role of the wine critic as important as it was in the past? With the retirement of the hegemonic world-renowned wine reviewer, Robert Parker, who helped put Bordeaux, California and the Rhône at the forefront of wine buyers’ minds, and the rise of digital media, what does the future hold?

WineCap met figures from leading Bordeaux estates for their insights into the place of wine criticism in 2025 and the years ahead. In Part I, we discuss the legacy and the evolving role of the wine critic.

  • Robert Parker’s era of singular influence is over – today’s wine criticism is a collective effort.
  • Critics still shape wine investment decisions, but their role is now one of many in a more democratic media landscape.
  • The rise of digital voices and ‘wine educators’ is expanding access and perspective in the fine wine world.

Wine criticism in transition: legacy vs digital influence

Several producers saw formal wine criticism as a keystone of information for customers, but also recognised that it was part of a developing media ecosystem largely because of the impact of the internet.

Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Saint-Émilion

Jean-Luc Thunevin, owner of Château Valandraud, thinks the importance of the traditional wine critic remains important for his château as the legacy of Robert Parker endures.

‘Parker had a hegemonic position; that is, he represented 80% of global influence. Today, in any case, there are collaborators who worked for him, who are very talented and who, two or three years ago, represented Parker’s influence,’ Thunevin told WineCap. ‘We can say that today, when you are a wine merchant, we use five or six major journalists, and we get an idea of what the wine is worth.’

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

‘In terms of the impact of the wine critics on the fame of our wines, we are very respectful of the job of the critics,’ Pierre-Oliver Clouet, technical manager at Château Cheval Blanc, explained. ‘We produce wine, there are wine distributors there to distribute the wine, there are wine collectors that collect the wine, and there are wine critics, who have to critique the wine. So, everybody has their own job in the wine world.’

The vast and varied selection of wine makes the role of the critic key, with Clouet adding that ranking wine estates, vintages, appellations, countries, and regions is important for consumers. 

‘The impact of critics is so important for the final client because the number of wines available on the market is huge. You have to find the critique who has your taste, and you have to follow him or her. This is the job: to help the consumer, to know more about what they’re going to purchase’.

Château Clinet, Pomerol

Ronan Laborde, managing director and owner at Château Clinet, is adamant that professional criticism is still an important fixture in the wine world, but acknowledges that information is more accessible to collectors and laymen alike today than in decades past. ‘We still need wine critique. When Robert Parker was reviewing and ranking, there was less wine criticism, and the web was not so widespread. Nowadays, there continue to be a lot of highly respectable wine critics.’

Laborde added that clients also have opportunities to bolster critic ratings with their own first-hand experience. ‘There are a lot of people who are really interested in wine and have the chance to visit wineries, taste the wines, and import the wines. So, it’s easier nowadays to try and have your own opinion than before. Robert Parker was a reference at the time he was active, but nowadays, it’s more split.’

Wine critique landscape in 2025: complexity and change

Château Margaux, First Growth, Haut-Médoc

Philippe Bascaules, managing director at Château Margaux, had an open-minded perspective on the shifting, changing, landscape of wine critique, not jumping to any conclusive opinion on its direction for the time being.

‘We are in a time when it’s very difficult to know the direction of journalists and social media and all this new communication, and how the consumers will use all of it to buy wine,’ he said. ‘Of course, it used to be so simple. Today, it’s much more complex and I think probably it’s even a good evolution, I would say, because then it can be a little bit more diverse, and everyone can find his own advisor. I think we are in transition and will know later exactly where it will lead and what it will mean.’

Château Coutet, Premier Cru, Sauternes

Other producers echo this sentiment. At Château Coutet, marketing director Aline Baly appreciates the rise of ‘wine educators’ who help spread awareness about lesser-known properties. 

‘In the last decade, we’ve seen a lot of new wine critics, or I also like to call them “wine educators” because they’re helping us get the message out there,’ marketing director Aline Baly told WineCap. ‘Some of the vineyards in this region are very tiny. We can’t be everywhere. We can’t be travelling and opening our wines and describing these wines. So, the wine critics, or wine educators help us get the message out.’

Regarding the growing number of critics, Baly was enthusiastic. ‘There is definitely a change from having very few people who are the spokespeople for all the vineyards in the world to a larger group of individuals who’ve come to visit, who’ve tasted wines and helped us get the message out there.’

Why wine critics still matter: education and expertise

Château Calon-Ségur, Third Growth, Saint-Estèphe

‘At the time of the Primeurs, we host many journalists from France and around the world,’ general director and owner of Château Calon-Ségur Vincent Millet said. ‘Today we have about fifteen journalists who come to taste the Primeurs every year. But what is also interesting is that these are the same journalists who will taste the wines when they are bottled, or a few months after bottling. So, they have a vision of a very young wine and a wine that has been aged in barrels, as well as a few months after bottling.’

This educational insider experience was invaluable for consumers, he added. ‘Today, what is interesting to see is that journalists have a culture of wine, follow the properties, follow the history of the property, and in some ways, these same journalists become true authorities on our wines. Even if we work with the brokers and merchants, the consumer will still look at the notes and comments of these same journalists. It is important for us to be able to explain how we work and what our philosophy is so that journalists can better understand the wines when they taste them’.

From Parker to pluralism: collective influence in wine

Several producers agree: the days of one critic dominating the wine conversation are behind us.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Second Growth, Pauillac

‘I don’t think that we will ever again see one critic have such a completely dominant position as Robert Parker had. It was an accident of history in many ways. He just started at the right time, in 1982, when America was discovering the great wines of Bordeaux, and became accepted as the utterly reliable guide that he was,’ explained Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, owner of Pichon-Baron

‘Today, there are many talented wine tasters and critics, and I think that it’s more of a collective influence. So, there will be perhaps a dozen really major critics who move the market, and I think on a collective basis, this is actually a much healthier thing. I think that for one person to have so much influence was probably slightly unbalanced and dangerous. These days, you can choose, as a consumer, from a number of very good critics and decide which ones you like best and follow them.’

Château La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion

‘The time of the likes of Robert Parker is completely finished,’ said owner of Château La Mondotte Stéphane von Neipperg. ‘Now we will have perhaps five to ten well known wine critics for the consumer. So, it will be a much more open game. Parker was an important guy because he made what makes a good wine understandable for a lot of people. However, it is also good to have different opinions.’

Von Neipperg pointed to the 2021 vintage as an example of how critic viewpoints can vary significantly, supporting his view of the benefits of such diversity. ‘If you read about the ratings of 2021, there were sometimes five to ten points difference for the same wine.’

As Bordeaux and the broader wine world evolve, so too does the role of the critic – moving from singular gatekeeper to a chorus of trusted voices, guiding collectors, investors, and enthusiasts through an increasingly nuanced landscape.

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. 

Start your wine investment journey with WineCap’s expert guidance.

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Bordeaux En Primeur 2024: critic scores and best releases

  • There have been some notable releases in a quieter En Primeur campaign. 
  • All of the top releases have represented the best entry point into their respective brands in the last decade. 
  • Critics have emphasised selectivity in a challenging vintage.

One month in since the start of the Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur campaign, which seems to be nearing its end, we look at critic scores and price trends to evaluate the best releases.

What the critics are saying

After the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley called Bordeaux 2024 ‘the weakest vintage of the last decade’, other critics have echoed his concerns with greater nuance. 

For Jane Anson, ‘the vintage was better than expected […] and clearly better than, for example, 2013 – and 2021 in the best cases.’

Meanwhile, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) observed: ‘The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.’ His ‘magnificent eight’ were Beychevelle, Clos Puy Arnaud, Cos d’Estournel, Jean Faure, Larcis Ducasse, Lascombes, La Conseillante and Rauzan-Ségla.

Neal Martin concluded his report, arguing that 2024 is ‘the ideal vintage for a reset’. He noted that ‘given the obstacles placed along the growing season, any 2024 that scores above 90 points is a success’. Martin’s highest barrel range was 96-98 points for La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Among the reds, his top wines with 95-97 points were Lafite Rothschild, Trotanoy, Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan.

The state of the market

As Bordeaux continues to lose market share to other regions, and fine wine prices overall are in a correction phase, releasing En Primeur has only worked with heavy discounts. We spoke with leading producers on how they determine their release prices, with strategies ranging from consulting négociants  and importers, and weighing in volumes and vintage quality. 

In his report, Martin speaks of the following reality: ‘There is no saviour riding over the horizon, no emerging country of insatiable Bordeaux-lovers, all against a backdrop of a vine-pull scheme […] and the fact that Bordeaux is wrestling with an image crisis.’ 

The solution? He goes back to the beginning of his career, when ‘off-vintages in the mould of 2024 would be discounted, and […] nobody lost face, including the grandest châteaux, and crucially, it kept the primeur system flowing, bottles passing through the distribution chain to the all-important final consumer’.

Within this context, we look at the releases that have worked so far – where pricing has aligned with trade and consumer expectations, and has offered a window for long-term profitability. 

Best En Primeur releases to date

One of the standout releases of the campaign has been First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild.

The 2024 vintage emerged as the most attractively priced Lafite in recent memory. In fact, only one other vintage from the past 40 years comes within 25% of its release price. Even lower-rated vintages like 2013 and 2007 – both released before the transformative investments that elevated Lafite’s quality – now trade at considerably higher levels.

Much like Lafite, the 2024 Mouton Rothschild represents a rare opportunity. It is the best-priced Mouton vintage currently available on the market. Adjusted for inflation, only one other vintage in the last two decades compares in affordability. 

Moreover, Mouton has been the best-performing First Growth over the last five years, while also being Wine-Searcher’s most searched-for wine globally. 

History shows that these ‘less celebrated’ vintages often outperform their more hyped counterparts. For both Lafite and Mouton, vintages such as 2007, 2008, 2013, and 2014 have significantly outpaced the more acclaimed 2009, 2010, or 2016 in price performance.

Another notable performer is Calon Ségur. While it may have flown slightly under the radar, its 2024 release represents the best entry point into the brand in over a decade. Calon has built a strong reputation among critics, frequently earning 95+ scores from Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Its investment credentials are equally impressive: between 2015 and 2023, Calon prices surged more than 80%. Even with recent market dips, our Calon Ségur index remains 75% higher than it was ten years ago – making it one of Bordeaux’s most dynamic performers.

Looking for more? Read our Bordeaux Regional Report.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines from the Southwold tasting

  • Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 from the annual Southwold tasting.
  • Martin placed the 2020 vintage ahead of the 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022.
  • With 99 points, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was Martin’s top-scoring wine. 

The annual Southwold tasting presents major critics with the opportunity to blind taste a Bordeaux vintage four years on in peer groups, mostly within appellations. 

Last week, Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 – a vintage ‘born in a tumultuous world,’ due to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, the critic argued that it bestowed ‘Bordeaux-lovers with a bevy of outstanding wines that should stand the test of time.’ 

Neal Martin’s thoughts on Bordeaux 2020

Martin described the dry whites as a ‘little hit-and-miss’ and the Sauternes as ‘very good rather than excellent.’ When it comes to the reds, however, the critic said that they ‘are going to give a great deal of pleasure.’

In terms of vintage comparisons, Martin placed 2020 ahead of 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022, which were more ‘crammed with legends in the making’. He wrote: ‘Perhaps 2020 doesn’t quite possess the vaulting ambition of those two vintages, though in some cases, it surpasses the best of both.’

His favourite appellation was Saint-Julien, which ‘raised the bar with a cluster of outstanding wines.’ The critic argued that this flight ‘solidified 2020 as a bona fide great vintage on the Left Bank.’ He described Margaux as ‘solid,’ with the ‘real superstar’ being the First Growth.

From Saint-Estèphe, Martin highlighted Montrose as ‘the standout of the appellation,’ with the biggest surprise being the 2020 Phélan Ségur, ‘one of the best values given its reasonable price.’

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines

Due to the nature of the Southwold blind tasting – wines grouped by appellation – Martin’s scores were ‘a little lower than when [he] encountered these wines at the end of 2022’.

His top-scoring wine, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, received 99 points. He described it as ‘a fabulous Pauillac that flirts with perfection.’ 

The rest of the wines in the top ten received 98 points. The highest-scored First Growth was Margaux, which the critic claimed was ‘among the greatest wines of the 2020 vintage.’ The ‘captivating’ and ‘mesmerising’ Cheval Blanc also scored among the best wines from the vintage. So did Trotanoy (‘an outstanding Pomerol’), and Canon (‘God made wine so it can taste as good as this’).

Investing in Bordeaux 2020

All of Martin’s top 2020 wines have fallen in value since release, apart from Trotanoy. 

This is partly because of the overall market direction in the last two years, but also due to the availability of older and in some cases higher-rated vintages available at a discount.

As Martin rightly noted, ‘the top wines in this report not only compete against each other, but also with themselves in terms of alternative available vintages.’

The lower-than-average prices at the moment, however, present great buying opportunities, especially for brands with a positive long-term performance. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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James Suckling’s top wines of 2024

  • American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list.
  • His wine of the year is Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015. 
  • Italy dominates the rankings followed by France and the US.

American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list, along with his wine of the year. The highest accolade went to Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015, which according to the critic, is a classical wine that embodies ‘the greatness of time and place’.

Regional distribution

Suckling and his team tasted and rated over 40,000 different wines over the past twelve months. The majority were from Italy, which accounted for over 9,100 of the reviewed wines, followed closely by France with 9,000, the US with 6,800, Spain – 3,800, Argentina – 2,300, Germany – 2,000, Australia – 1,700, and Chile nearly 1,550. They also tasted wines from other regions worldwide including Greece, Hungary, Canada and Uruguay.

Italy also dominated the list of their favourites, featuring with 26 wines in the top 100, followed by France (18), the United States (15), Germany (12), Argentina (6), Spain (6), Chile (6), Australia (5), Austria (4), South Africa (1) and China (1).

Suckling’s top 10 wines of 2024

James Suckling’s wine of the year is the 2015 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, which he described as ‘full-bodied and elegant on the palate due to ripe, filigree tannins with long acidity and a toasty, savory aftertaste’. He called it ‘one of the great Amarones’ and gave it a 100-point score.

James Suckling top wine scores 2024

The top wines of the year were chosen on the basis of quality, price, and what Suckling calls the “wow factor,” an emotional impact a wine can have on the drinker. Most wines on the list scored between 97 and 100 points, with nine wines priced between $30 and $60 (£23 and £46), emphasising affordability alongside quality. Wines on the list were required to have a minimum production of 5,000 bottles, with a median price below $500 (£385).

Regional standouts

Germany had a standout year in 2023, particularly for its dry Riesling, with the Künstler Riesling Rheingau Hölle GG 2023 ranking second on the list and exemplifying the structured, balanced nature of this vintage.

Austria continued to gain critical recognition, especially for its white wines, with F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Kellerberg 2023 taking the third spot. 

China was also present on the list with Ao Yun Shangri-La 2020, a wine from Moët Hennessy’s Yunnan winery, signaling the country’s growing role in the fine wine market.

Accessibility and value

Suckling noted that many of his favourite wines offer high quality at accessible price points. The focus on value addresses current concerns about the market’s downturn. For example, the wine that took the second spot is priced around $65 (£50), while Italian whites such as the Manincor Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige Tannenberg 2022 are available for approximately $40 (£31).

Emerging trends

Suckling’s report further highlights an increasing interest in German and Austrian wines, especially among younger consumers, due to their quality and value. Events like Suckling’s Great Wines series, held across major cities globally, have drawn over 21,000 attendees this year. With wines from more established to emerging wine regions, Suckling’s 2024 list provides a guide to the critic’s top picks from across the globe.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.