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Bordeaux 2022 – what to expect?

The first Bordeaux 2022 En Primeur releases are expected early next month. Ahead of the campaign, we examine the key factors that shaped the 2022 vintage and the current market for Bordeaux.

Vintage overview

Bordeaux 2022 is full of promise. Early critical reports suggest that the winemakers have overcome the challenges of the growing season, characterised by extreme heat and drought, and have achieved quality on par with the recent trilogy of great vintages, namely the 2018, 2019 and 2020.

Rainfall levels in 2022 were similar to one of Bordeaux’s greatest vintages, the 2010, although temperatures were higher last year. According to Bordeaux expert, Jane Anson, this led to ‘small grapes, thick skins, and clear concentration’.

While one might expect to find ripeness and boldness in the wines, the first En Primeur tasting report, published by James Suckling last week, suggested that the winemakers have prioritised freshness and lower alcohol, and that the resultant wines have fine structured tannins. Moreover, the critic noted consistent excellence from bottom to top.

However, the apocalyptic hailstorms in June devastated the crop at some estates but provided needed respite from the heat for others. As such, there will be variation in yields between the chateaux.

In terms of overall volumes, the 2022 vintage sits about 15% below the ten-year average but is up 9% on last year. It is also higher than the low-yielding 2013 and 2017 vintages.

Bordeaux – back in vogue

The 2022 vintage arrives in a market that is experiencing somewhat of a Bordeaux renaissance.

While on the surface Bordeaux might be losing market share to other regions, secondary market reports suggest that trade for the region has continued to increase in absolute terms: close to 50% since 2010.

Bordeaux has come to represent good value for money, in the context of Burgundy’s, and most recently, Champagne’s relentless price rise.

Moreover, as the bedrock of an investment portfolio, Bordeaux continues to offer the best liquidity in the fine wine market. There is consistent demand for the classed growths, across the full spectrum of vintages, both young and mature. As our Q1 report highlighted, some Bordeaux 2011s have broken pricing records since the beginning of the year, spurred by purchasing of ‘rabbit’ vintages for Chinese New Year. Bordeaux proves its relevance again and again.

En Primeur is only one of the ways in which the region cements its place in the world of fine wine. The annual campaign generates considerable attention from trade and critics, the volume and value of wine released is unmatched anywhere in the world, and the best releases offer excellent returns on investment – often at the lowest possible point of entry into a top brand.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

 

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James Suckling releases Bordeaux 2022 report

‘A new benchmark’

James Suckling has released his report on the Bordeaux 2022 vintage ahead of the upcoming En Primeur campaign. The critic claimed that in the 40 years he has tasted Bordeaux in-barrel, he had ‘never come across anything like the 2022 vintage’.

2022 will stay in memory as one of the hottest years on record, featuring severe droughts and heatwaves. Despite the challenges, Suckling suggested that 2022 ‘gives us hope that both man and nature can adapt to these circumstance and produce outstanding wines, both red and white’.

He further observed that dryness and heat no longer mean bold ripeness in the resultant wines. Most winemakers have prioritised freshness and lower alcohol, ‘picking their grapes at optimal ripeness, with this “al dente” fruit giving a crunchy and clean character to the wines, with fine yet structured tannins’.

Suckling found the young wines to be ‘dynamic and fascinating’ and noted that ‘there was high quality from top to bottom’ – a sign of a great vintage.

Top-scoring wines

Suckling found nine candidates for perfection in Bordeaux 2022, awarding them a barrel range of 99-100 points.

Cheval Blanc stood out as his potential ‘wine of the vintage’, which ‘soars to new heights with its brightness and weightlessness’.

The critic was also full of praise for two Sauternes from Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, calling the Crème du Tête ‘magical. The new 1929?’

Only one First Growth made the list, Château Lafite Rothschild, which Suckling described as ‘a classical Lafite that reminds me of something like the 1986 […] but it’s so today with its purity and precision’.

A white wine also featured among the top-scoring – Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux. According to him, this ‘feels like a great Montrachet’ and is ‘one for the cellar’.

The question of pricing

Suckling’s verdict on the 2022 vintage is that the quality of the wines is ‘exceptional’ but ultimately ‘the market will decide’ the success of the new releases. ‘High interest rates, volatile stock prices and recent bank failures’ are some of the factors that will influence purchasing of young Bordeaux.

While the excitement of the new is guaranteed, high release prices might make older vintages look more attractive – especially if they offer value, and faster returns on investment.

 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

 

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Ornellaia’s Axel Heinz to breathe new life into Château Lascombes

Axel Heinz joins Château Lascombes

Longtime director and winemaker at Ornellaia, Axel Heinz, is leaving Tuscany to join the Second Growth Château Lascombes as CEO and bring the estate ‘to its full potential,’ reported The drinks business. After 18 years in Italy, Heinz will join Lascombes in time for the 2023 harvest.

Carlton McCoy, managing partner at Lawrence Family Wine, who own the Margaux property, said that the work Heinz ‘has done while overseeing Ornellaia and Masseto have taken this already heralded estate to new heights’.

Indeed, Ornellaia and Masseto have become established as two of the most prominent Super Tuscans, enjoying continuous demand and steady price appreciation. In 2020, they placed among the top ten most powerful wine brands in the world.

Investment performance of Ornellaia and Lascombes

The appointment of Heinz is intended to breathe new life into Lascombes, which has seen much slower growth than the Super Tuscan. Over the past five years, Lascombes prices have risen just 2.5%, compared to a move of 45% for Ornellaia.

Ornellaia and Lascombes

At present, the 2012 is Lascombes’ highest-scoring vintage, with 94-points from Robert Parker (Wine Advocate). It is also one of the best offerings on the market, together with the less expensive 2011 (RP 93).

With Heinz soon to be at its helm, Lascombes will be an estate to watch; one likely to generate more critical attention, and rising prices.

You can explore the price performance of both estates on Wine Track – our tool, which enables you to identify investment grade wines, spot trends and wine investment opportunities.

Stay tuned – this analysis and more is part of our Q1 2023 report, published next week.

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Latour 2015 Released

Last week we saw the release of the much-anticipated newest vintage of Pauillac’s revered first growth, Château Latour 2015. Having renounced their involvement in the yearly en primeur campaign back in 2012, the acclaimed producer focuses on releasing wines on their own terms after several years of aging, a strategy that reinforces the exclusivity of celebrated vintages such as this. This is the first “prime” vintage of Latour to come onto the market since 2011.

In the years immediately following their withdrawal, trading volumes of Latour on Liv-ex reduced, as was to be expected. However, since new vintages began to release in 2020 trading volumes have increased, with price performance also improving as the greater volumes available leads to more eyes on the brand.

2015 saw excellent conditions thanks to a hot and dry early summer followed by a cooler, damper August shortly after. With healthy, uniform fruit at harvest, critics were quick to declare it as one of the best vintages of the century so far. Adhering neatly to Jancis Robinson’s rule of fives, whereby vintages divisible by five are often of excellent quality, the vintage has shown remarkable tannic structure and power in similar, left-bank wines. Latour 2015, however, offers even greater longevity and will likely develop into a serious wine of quality and value over several decades.

Decanter Bordeaux expert Georgie Hindle rated the vintage at 98 points, describing it as “still youthful and quite serious but there’s something so appealing about it.” As the youngest vintage available on the market, coming in at a price below the much-hyped 2009 and 2010 vintages, Latour 2015 represents a very exciting prospect for investors given its iconic reputation and impressive performance in the past.

As a whole, Bordeaux offers fantastic value this year, considering the rising prices of Burgundy and Champagne, and with new measures coming into effect regarding capital gains tax thresholds, a well-priced vintage such as Latour 2015 that will likely perform well could be an excellent addition to any portfolio.

If you’d be interested in adding Latour 2015 to yours, do not hesitate to get in touch. Keep an eye out for email offers soon.

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Fine Wine as a Wasting Chattel

From April 6, the British government will move to reduce the deficit through a number of measures, including very significant changes to capital gains tax thresholds. However, investors may find that “wasting chattel” investments could be a worthwhile solution to this.

From the new financial year 2023-2024, the threshold for paying capital gains tax (CGT) will be slashed, from £12,300 to £6,000 this year, and then again to £3,000 the following year – a full 75% fall. This added tax burden will inevitably eat into investor returns. However, the category of investments known as “wasting chattel” is exempt from CGT altogether, meaning that any gains made on these investments will allow investors to keep more of their profits.

Wasting chattel investments are assets with a predictable useful life not exceeding 50 years and can include things such as art, furniture, vehicles, and most importantly, fine wine. These may provide investors with a tax-efficient way to profit.

If you’re looking to balance out tax losses and protect your portfolio against inflation, then allocating more of your portfolio to wasting chattels may be a smart move. Collectible assets such as fine wine are often inflation-resistant and have a long history of good returns. They can therefore provide a much-needed buffer against the current economic environment; helping ensure the long-term success of your portfolio and the security of your financial well-being.

In these difficult economic times, adaptability is paramount, and it is essential for investors and portfolio managers to remain flexible by considering all investment tools and vehicles. Wasting chattels kick back against the upcoming tax hits, and can be an excellent option.

If this sounds like something of interest to you, why not schedule a consultation with WineCap? Our wine investment experts would be only too happy to guide you through the process.

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Chinese Wine Imports on the Road to Recovery

Chinese wine imports have begun their revival as borders reopened to international travel following three long years of Covid restrictions that isolated the world’s most densely populated country.

As families reunite and look forward to a much needed period of recovery, the wine trade breathes a collective sigh of relief after surviving 2022, the year that saw the wine industry “hit rock bottom in both import and domestic market[s]”

An article, published by China’s leading wine news site Vino Joy News, examines the potential for a rebound in Chinese wine imports which dropped significantly in 2020 due to the successive lockdowns of the pandemic. The decline in corporate activities and cultural gatherings which usually drive crucial sales peaks saw revenues affected drastically. Experts are positive that the recent lifting of Covid restrictions will rejuvenate the market akin to the swift recovery of the restaurant industry since December’s relaxation of pandemic constraints.

The key factor driving this optimism is the increased demand for better quality wine from China’s increasingly affluent middle class. This is set to be further boosted by the recent relaxation of import tariffs, making wine more affordable for Chinese consumers. This year’s Spring Festival has seen revenues spike which suggests that other events like the Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day will have a similar effect.

Though there is a potential for the relaxation of Chinese food and beverage standards this is unlikely to affect the fine wine market, and overall the long-term outlook for Chinese wine imports remains very promising.

A key indicator of the market’s recovery will be the upcoming Chengdu wine fair in April, an event considered “a bellwether of China’s drinks industry” and likely a strong reflection of the country’s enthusiasm for fine wine.

With any luck, this will be the year that sees this major player in the fine wine market return to form.

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Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle

A number of key critics have delivered their thoughts on the third and final of the vintage triumvirate – Bordeaux 2020. The wines are characterized by lower alcohol levels, tension, and precision as a result of the warm and dry conditions with well-timed rainfall.

As the wines continue to become available in bottle, attentions have refocused on this vintage thanks to the unusual circumstances that surrounded it. With summer ripening and harvest taking place in the thick of the Covid-19 lockdown, restricted access to the estates meant that the growing season and processes took place relatively quietly and without the usual commentary. En primeur tastings were undertaken either remotely, or under tightly controlled conditions.

More recent tastings have revealed, however, that Bordeaux 2020 might be the champion of the three. Antonio Galloni concluded in his report, titled “Saving the Best for Last”, that “2020 is a great modern-day Bordeaux vintage. From the standpoint of both peaks and overall consistency, it surpasses 2018 and 2019.” Neal Martin notes in his report that “Overall, the 2020 vintage delivers the goods. It seals the trio of great Bordeaux vintages, albeit sculpted in a modern style” referencing that of the three vintages that encountered warmer conditions “by 2020, they knew a hell of a lot more than in 2018”.

Both praised Pauillac’s Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild, as well as the “epic” Château Margaux, powerful Montrose, and Pétrus, which Neal Martin proclaimed “an absolute killer”.

Jane Anson was fortunate enough to be one of a handful of people able to experience en primeur in Bordeaux itself. In her Bordeaux 2020 vintage overview she mentions the significance of a more focused year. Where producers could be fully dedicated to winemaking alone, this “allowed estates to put the spotlight on their own processes, and perhaps question certain accepted practices, or double-down on others.”

Anson also notes that Bordeaux 2020 has seen only limited trading so far, but that it is likely to pick up the pace soon as more wines become available.

Bordeaux 2020 looks to be a vintage with a lot to offer, and potentially one of those rare occasions where the third in the series is considered the best. At WineCap, we see excellent performance potential here and will be in touch with new offers on this promising offering soon.

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Antonio Galloni’s 2019 Barolo Report

In his new report reviewing 2019 Barolo releases, Antonio Galloni has showered this “stellar vintage” with praise, noting that even though the summer brought intense heat, opportune rain and instinctive decision-making on the winemakers’ part led to wines that “don’t taste like wines from a warm vintage at all.” Following an inconsistent 2018, this return to form might very well signal a new cycle of strong to exceptional vintages for this storied appellation.

Those who value Nebbiolo’s complexity and finesse will be enthralled by the 2019 Barolo wines and their powerful, tightly-wound structures, which currently have the sort of youthful austerity akin to vintages like 2016, 2005, and 1999.

A relatively dry winter and typically warmer-than-average temperatures marked the start of the year before colder conditions and rainfall saw bud break delayed by two weeks. Though persistent rain threatened a repeat of the previous year, thankfully it turned out to be quite benign. The summer months were met with warmer weather balanced with rainfall and cool nights which led up to an ideal, slightly later harvest.

Among the stars are Vietti, with Barolo Ravera earning 100 points from Galloni, citing its energy and tension as exciting characteristics. Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Riserva Monfortino comes in just behind at 97-99 points showing incredible refinement for its relative youth, and showing plenty of tannin and structure. Also, following the sad passing of Luciano Sandrone, both Barolo Le Vigne and Aleste scored 97 points and were praised for their energy and potential development.

WineCap sees a real opportunity in Italy at the moment and the wines of Piedmont in general. Keep an eye out for offers coming over the next few weeks. Many of these wines are not available yet, but rest assured that when they are, we will be certain to let you know.

Read more about Why Fine Wine Might be a Better Investment Than You Thought.

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Sotheby’s Wine & Spirits Auction Sales Top Record $150 Million in ’22

Fine wine and spirits sales at Sotheby’s hit a record-beating $150 million last year, an increase of 14% compared to the year before. 

69 wine and spirits auctions were held by the top auction house during 2022, which represents 30% more than in 2021. This new record for fine wine and spirits sold at auction doesn’t include private sales and retail sales.

The main revenue source was fine wine: delivering a total of $121 million last year. Spirits also contributed double-digit growth of 15% year-on-year with a total of $29 million, underlining the rising interest in investment-grade whiskies and fine spirits. 

One particular highlight included a unique assortment case of 12 bottles from the 1990 vintage of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti which sold for an estimate-breaking $118,750.

The Macallan The Reach 81 Years Old single malt, an incredibly rare special edition, went on auction in September at Sotheby’s in London. It was the oldest whisky ever to be entered into an auction and sold for £300,000 (or $325,740).

In the US, spirits sales doubled: up from $5 million to $12 million. The key driver can be attributed to a stronger demand for luxury bottles.

Asia remains a key focus for Sotheby’s, with the auction house’s 2023 continued expansion plans in the region. Sales in Asia contribute the most to the house’s total revenue from auctions: $54 million. What’s more, the auction house reported that Asian buyers represented 41% of sales by value in 2022.

Commenting on total sales, Yves de Launay, Head of Auction Sales, said: ‘Overall 2022 saw a very strong performance in a very challenging market.’ ‘Bordeaux and Burgundy clearly led the way with an increasing demand for vintage Champagne and rare wines for other regions such as Tuscany or Rhône. Demand should remain strong for the finest and rarest wines in 2023.’

Read about Christie’s December 2022 London auction that reached over £2.12 million in sales. 

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Champagne Jacquesson Purchased by Pinault Family

François Pinault, owner of Artémis Domaines, has finalised the acquisition of Champagne Jacquesson.

In February last year, Artémis Domaines took control of a minority stake of 33% in Champagne Jacquesson. At the time there was speculation that a full takeover would ensue later in the year. Managing the Dizy-based operation with his brother Laurent since 1990, Jean-Hervé Chiquet has confirmed that the complete takeover happened in December 2022. Chiquet commented: ‘When we bought back Michael Mackenzie’s shares (in the company) at the end of 2020, we started to think about a new partner and found that Artémis Domaines was interested. We started to discuss options with them and agreed on their arrival as a minority shareholder last February.’

‘Since then, we have had time to get to know each other and, as Laurent and I have no successor in our family, we have decided to put Jacquesson in the best hands possible to guarantee its future and to be sure that our dedication to quality will remain or even be improved,’ Chiquet added. Although he and his brother won’t be actively involved in managing the company, ‘we will continue to supply the company with grapes from our own vineyards and I will stay on as a member of the board but without an operational role,’ Jean-Hervé added.

Located in Dizy outside of Epernay, the Jacquesson estate was purchased by Jean-Hervé and Laurent’s father in the 1970s. The estate dates back to the 18th century and Joseph Krug worked there before he founded his own house in 1843. The brothers have shaken up the ‘Brut sans année’ market with the introduction of their Cuvée 700 concept. Their first release – Cuvée 728 – centred on the 2000 harvest and was released in 2004.

Chiquet, who has previously spoken about his and his brother’s approach, said: ‘The Cuvée 700 concept is unique in Champagne and is the opposite of a non-vintage wine. We seek excellence rather than homogeneity, respect for the character of the vintage rather than its denial, and the preference to create a “house style”, the doctrine most other producers in Champagne follow for their non-vintage blends. Our Cuvée 700 is the only blended wine we produce; it is meant to be the expression of a year and thus each year offers a different identity which we recognise by numbering the cuvée.’

Read more about the Pinault family’s 2022 acquisition of Champagne Henriot.