- Major critics have released their ‘Beyond Bordeaux’ reports, accessing the quality and value of this year’s La Place releases.
- Tom Parker MW stated that there were ‘not as many hits as usual’.
- Jane Anson awarded three wines 100-points.
As the La Place de Bordeaux campaign takes centre stage in September, major critics have shared their views on this year’s releases, including Jane Anson (Inside Bordeaux) and Tom Parker MW (JancisRobinson.com).
Both have commented on the quality of the wines but also on their pricing strategies and the value to be found. As discussed last week, a recurring theme in the campaign has been the price increases for the new releases, compared to previous vintages. This has done little to invigorate the market for buying at release for investment.
Tom Parker on the campaign’s ‘ambitious pricing’
In his ‘beyond Bordeaux’ assessment, Tom Parker MW expressed his wary view on the campaign’s strategy and pricing. He wrote that ‘the styles and regions are diverse, and the stories risk being lost in such a compressed release timetable’.
He added that ‘given the ambitious pricing for many of these wines, it is hard to see how they can all be sold through successfully’. Indeed, the campaign’s reception so far has been mediocre.
In terms of overall quality, Parker stated that ‘there were some excellent efforts though perhaps not as many hits as usual’.
Regional observations
Delving into individual regions, Parker noted the Californian producers’ split strategy, with ‘some releasing wines from the complicated 2020 vintage, with others choosing instead to offer museum releases and a few choosing to do both’. One such instance was Opus One, which opted for library release of its 2018 and 2019 vintages.
In terms of the Rhône releases, he observed that ‘Hommage à Jacques Perrin was good rather than great, and newly added and renamed Domaine de la Chapelle (formerly Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle) left a little to be desired in the tricky 2021 vintage’.
For him, ‘Argentina produced two of the most exciting wines’. He awared 18 out of 20 points to Zuccardi’s Finca Canal Uco and 17+/20 for Adrianna Vineyard from Catena Zapata.
Parker also complimented Australian wines which were ‘technically immaculate’ and named Wynn’s John Riddoch ‘a personal favourite’.
His top Italian pick was Masseto (18/20), which he described as ‘almost a guilty pleasure in 2020’ though ‘only for those with the deepest pockets’. Although the wine was released at a 10% premium on last year, the new release still offered value in the context of back vintages.
Jane Anson awards three wines 100-points
Among the releases so far, Jane Anson awarded three wines 100 points – Bibi Graetz Colore 2021, Yjar 2019, and Giaconda Chardonnay 2021. The La Place newcomer Chappellet, Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 received a near-perfect score of 99-points from the critic.
Anson drew attention to Sicily as a region that offers both quality and value, saying that ‘Sicilian reds, as ever, offer some of the best value wines not just of the September Releases, but of the wine industry in general’.
She also acknowledged that ‘there’s no doubt that the wider economic stresses globally are both helping and hurting the September Releases’.
Once again, this highlights the importance of correct pricing in a broadening fine wine market.
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