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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Q1 2024 Fine Wine Report

Our Q1 2024 Fine Wine Report has now been released. The report offers a comprehensive overview of the fine wine market in the last quarter, including the impact of interest rates and geopolitical risks, the best-performing wines and regions, and analysis on the rising popularity of non-vintage Champagne as an investment.

Report highlights:

  • Mainstream markets rallied in Q1 2024, driven by resilient economic growth and expectations for future interest rate cuts by central banks.
  • The first green shoots started to appear in the fine wine market towards the end of Q1.
  • Fine wine prices (Liv-ex 100 index) experienced a smaller decline of 1% in Q1, compared to a fall of 4.2% in Q4 2023.
  • Italian wine enjoyed rising demand amid a flurry of new releases, including the 100-point Sassicaia 2021.
  • A number of Champagne labels that experienced consistent declines last year have started to recover, including Dom Pérignon, Salon Le Mesnil, and Pol Roger.
  • The Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign delivered high quality and quantity, with about 10% of producers reducing pricing year-on-year due to the challenging market environment.
  • China lifted tariffs on Australian wine after more than three years.
  • Critics and trade are now preparing for the 2023 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, which will dominate the news in Q2 2024.

Click below to download your free copy of our quarterly investment report.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Which Bordeaux First Growth has the lowest price per point?

  • The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on their market price and perceived quality.
  • This article examines the prices per point of the most liquid group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • It also looks at their historic market performances.

Price per point is an indicator of value; it is calculated by dividing the average case price of a given wine by its average critic score. For some wines, prices and points line up. Typically, a 100-point wine will cost more than a 95-point one, though not always. The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on both their market price and perceived quality, offering a nuanced view of their value.

Today we examine the price-per-point ratios of the most liquid and popular group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths. Which Grand Vin has the lowest price per point and thus offers the best value as a brand?

First Growths – price per point

An average case price of £4,429 makes Château Haut-Brion the most affordable of the First Growths. Meanwhile, it has the highest average Wine Track score of 95.9 points. While there is divergence in prices and scores on a vintage-specific level, Château Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point among the First Growths overall.

First Growths average prices and scores

At the other end of the spectrum, Château Lafite Rothschild has the highest price per point of £64, owing to the highest average case price of £6,129 and a Wine Track score of 95.8.

What does this mean for the wines’ performance?

Historically, the First Growths have followed a similar trajectory of highs and lows. They all peaked during the China-led bull market (H1 2011) and experienced a subsequent downfall. Prices started to rise again following the Brexit referendum and have since largely maintained their level. They have fallen in the last year in line with the broader market (the Liv-ex 50 which tracks the First Growths is down 15.3% over one year – the same as the broadest measure, the Liv-ex 1000 index).

First Growths performance

Of the five First Growths, Lafite has risen the most, with our index peaking in February 2011. Recently, however, it has been the biggest faller, dipping 19% in the last year. Haut-Brion, which has been a more modest performer without delivering the same heights, has dipped the least of the First Growths (10%) during the same period. With a more stable market performance, Haut-Brion offers further opportunities for investors and collectors where the price per point remains comparatively low.

Wines that offer value perform the best

In the case of Haut-Brion, value plays an important role in market performance. POP wines (those with a lower price per point) have outperformed the rest over 15 years. These include vintages 2002, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2019 (the only prime vintage among the POP wines).

The second-best-performing index comprises older ‘prime’ vintages – wines with high scores pre-2000. However, this index has shown higher volatility due to the limited availability and trading volumes of these wines.

The index comprising younger ‘on’ vintages like 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2020 has underperformed the rest of the pack. However, these wines have also had less time in the market and their evolution is yet to be seen.

Haut-Brion vintage performance

In conclusion, looking at price per point gives an indication of value and quality. However, historic market performance is telling for investors looking for stability or higher risk and potentially higher rewards.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Wine Advocate releases Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

  • Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle.
  • According to the report, the best producers ‘especially those working with the best terroirs […] have produced some excellent wines’.
  • Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and Montrose were the highest-scoring wines of the vintage, receiving 97 points.

Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle based on his tastings, alongside his colleague Yohan Castaing. Kelley’s in-bottle verdict confirms his En Primeur assessment of this variable vintage.

A farmers’ vintage

Kelley wrote that the results were mixed, but ‘the best farmers, especially those working with the best terroirs and armed with the resources to take risks and make a strict selection, have produced some excellent wines’.

2021 is largely seen as a ‘farmers’ vintage’. According to Kelley, ‘the best 2021s are beautiful wines that exemplify how much technical progress Bordeaux has made over the last decade in the vineyards and in the winery’.

He attributes the best results to nurture over nature; however, this ‘doesn’t change the results in the glass’.

Vintage comparisons

Due to the heterogeneous nature of the 2021s, stylistic comparisons with back vintages are harder to make. For Kelley, ‘many wines are supple and charming, reminiscent of a modern-day version of the 1999 vintage: the perfect “restaurant vintage,” if one forgets their price’.

He added that ‘some of the best northern Médoc reds, with their serious, intensely Cabernet Sauvignon-driven personalities, evoke the 1996 vintage; whereas the Right Bank’s best 2021s are more sensual and seductive’.

When it comes to pricing, many 2021s are now available below their release price, making them an attractive investment proposition where quality is high.

The best Bordeaux 2021s

Kelley highlighted Cheval Blanc (97), Figeac (96+), Haut-Brion (97), Léoville-Las Cases (96+) and Montrose (97) as his wines of the vintage.

For Castaing, the 2021 First Growth reflects ‘the timeless elegance of Haut-Brions from cooler years [and] will delight Bordeaux purists’.

When it comes to Cheval Blanc, Kelley revealed that ‘director Pierre-Olivier Clouet even considers it to be superior to the 2020, a preference that I share’. The 2021 is one of the most affordable recent vintages from the estate.

The other highest-scoring wine, Montrose, got Kelley’s ‘nomination for the title of “wine of the vintage” in the Médoc’. The critic said it ‘entirely transcends the limitations of the year’.

Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

Full report and tasting notes are available on the Wine Advocate’s website.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Navigating the 2023 fine wine market: the rise of Bordeaux amid global risk aversion

  • 2023 marks a notable slowdown in the fine wine market, with price corrections shadowing the bullish trends of previous years.
  • Burgundy and Champagne which led the market to its peak in 2022 are suffering the most.
  • Bordeaux has become a beacon for investors, gaining renewed interest due to its stability and reliability.

As the 2023 Liv-ex Power 100 unveils, a significant shift is evident in the fine wine market. This year marks a notable slowdown, with price corrections shadowing the bullish trends of previous years. Amidst this changing landscape, Bordeaux emerges as a beacon for investors, gaining renewed interest due to its stability and reliability. This article delves into the dynamics of the 2023 fine wine market, highlighting the rise of Bordeaux against a backdrop of global risk aversion.

Understanding the 2023 market slowdown

The fine wine market in 2023 has departed from the spirited activity of past years. After prices across many regions reached stellar levels in 2022, 2023 was a year of corrections. Trade by value and volume also fell, according to the 2023 Liv-ex Power 100 report. Despite more wine labels being traded, the overall number of individual wines traded (on a vintage level) has seen a decrease. This trend points towards a strategic shift towards higher quality wine investments, reflecting a more discerning market behaviour.

The softening of the fine wine market in 2023 can be attributed to a range of factors. Economic uncertainties and global financial market fluctuations have instilled a sense of risk aversion among investors. Inflationary pressures and rising interest rates have also played a role, impacting disposable incomes and investment capabilities. This economic climate has prompted a more cautious approach in luxury investments like fine wine. Additionally, changing consumer behaviours and preferences, along with geopolitical tensions and trade disputes, have further contributed to the market’s softening.

Regional patterns in 2023

In 2023, regional patterns in the wine market have become more pronounced. Burgundy and Champagne, which previously led the market to its peak, are now facing significant corrections. Burgundy has seen a reduction in its presence in the Power 100, while the Burgundy 150 index has fallen 15.4% year-on-year. Similarly, Champagne’s market has also softened, with the Champagne 50 index dipping 19.4%.

The rankings reveal a trend towards stability, liquidity, and relative value, which are prominently found in Bordeaux. This region has emerged as a beacon of resilience in the fine wine market, adding five wines to the Power 100 and benefiting from its reputation for consistent quality and reliable investment.

Conversely, California, while losing five wines in the ranking, managed to maintain its trade share, indicating a selective but sustained interest in its wines. This shift reflects a broader market inclination towards established regions and brands, suggesting a cautious approach by collectors and investors in a turbulent market.

As market dynamics evolve, regions like Italy and Spain are gaining traction, with brands like Vietti and Dominio de Pingus showing positive growth, further diversifying the landscape of investment-worthy wines. These regions are increasingly seen as offering valuable investment-worthy wines, attracting attention for their unique qualities and potential for growth.

The most powerful brands of 2023

In the realm of individual brands, certain names have demonstrated remarkable resilience and adaptability amidst the market downturn. Bordeaux’s Château Climens, for instance, has made an impressive leap in the rankings, rising from 353rd place in 2022 to 98th this year. This is a testament to its successful brand repositioning under new ownership.

Similarly, in California, brands like Opus One and Screaming Eagle continue to hold strong positions. Opus One, in particular, has risen dramatically, from 82nd in 2022 to 4th this year, signifying continued interest in top-tier wines from this region despite broader market challenges.

Despite facing a pullback Burgundy still has powerful players like Kei Shiogai, which took the top spot in terms of price performance, with its Market Price rising 185.7% year-on-year.

The strength of these brands lies not just in their historical significance or quality but also in their ability to retain high liquidity and trading volumes, essential in a market that is increasingly focusing on safer investments. This trend suggests that while the market is retracting in some areas, there remains a robust demand for wines that represent the pinnacle of their respective regions.

Adapting to the evolving wine market dynamics

As we navigate through the evolving dynamics of the fine wine market, it is clear that understanding and adapting to these changes is crucial for future investing. The trends of 2023, from the renewed interest in Bordeaux and the resilience of powerful brands, provide valuable insights into the market’s direction.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

 

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Price ratio: comparing regional First Growths

  • We compare the price performance of Château Lafite Rothschild to other regions’ respective ‘First Growths’.
  • The rising ratio highlights the increased value to be had in the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • Today, one can get 29 bottles of Lafite for the price of Romanée-Conti and almost five for Pétrus and Screaming Eagle.

How many bottles of Château Lafite Rothschild can one get for the price of other regions’ respective ‘First’ wines?

With changing market dynamics at play that have seen the balance between Bordeaux and other regions change, we examine the price ratio between some of the most popular investment-grade wines.

Below we compare the performance of the Bordeaux First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild to Burgundy’s highest echelon Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the Super Tuscan Sassicaia, the Right Bank Château Pétrus, the Californian cult wine Screaming Eagle, and the most in-demand Champagne, Dom Pérignon. These are all wines that symbolise and even transcend their geography.  In the same way that Lafite has long been the mainstay of Bordeaux, the other wines are bellwethers for their regions.

The ratio between these wines is somewhat reflective of broader trends within their respective regions. Over the last decade, the ratio has risen consistently, highlighting the increased value to be had in the First Growths, as other regions gather momentum.

How many bottles of Lafite for the price of DRC?

Today, one can get on average 29 bottles of Lafite Rothschild for the price of Romanée-Conti. The ratio has risen considerably since 2013 when one could buy just 14 bottles of Lafite for one DRC. It peaked in December 2022, when it stood at 30:1.

As the chart below shows, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti index hit a record high in December last year. Meanwhile, the Lafite index has not seen any of the price volatility witnessed by DRC. Year-to-date, prices for both labels have dipped but the fall has been sharper for DRC.

The DRC:Lafite price ratio is somewhat reflective of broader trends within their regions. In the last decade, Burgundy emerged as Bordeaux’s main contender. After Bordeaux peaked at the end of the China-led bull market in 2011, buyers started to seek out other corners of the fine wine world and it was Burgundy that attracted the greatest attention. The allure of rarity and quality meant that demand quickly outstripped already tight supply. Prices for Burgundy peaked, while Bordeaux ran quietly in the background.

For Bordeaux, the period between 2013 and 2015 saw contraction at the tail end of the Chinese correction. The market turned again in October 2015, and since then, Lafite Rothschild has been the second-best-performing First Growth, with some vintages doubling in value. However, it has not managed to catch up with Burgundy’s stellar rise.

Left vs Right Bank

It is also interesting to compare performance within Bordeaux’s Left and Right Bank. Today 4.6 bottles of Lafite gets you a bottle of Château Pétrus, up from 3, ten years ago.

As the chart below shows, Lafite and Pétrus have followed a similar trajectory up to September 2021, when prices for the First Growth flattened while Pétrus continued its rise.

Similar to Burgundy, rarity plays a key role in Pétrus’ appeal and investment performance. Pétrus is produced in much smaller quantities (around 3,000 cases per year) compared to Lafite (around 25,000 cases). Despite commanding a higher price tag, the wine has considerably outperformed Lafite in the last decade.

Dom Pérignon vs Lafite Rothschild

Recent years have seen a surge in Champagne’s market share and price performance. This has been reflected in the performance of its most traded label – Dom Pérignon.

Produced in much larger quantities than Lafite and more widely available, Dom Pérignon has started to catch up with the First Growth. In the last decade, the ratio between them has doubled – from 0.2 to 0.4.

Champagne prices, with Dom Pérignon at the helm, have made considerable gains since the early 2020s. In the last decade, our Dom Pérignon index is up 120%, compared to 20% for Lafite.

Sassicaia vs Lafite Rothschild

Similarly, the Super Tuscans have been getting more expensive. The most liquid and heavily traded group of Italian wines, their performance has been further boosted by critical acclaim and brand strength, with Sassicaia at the helm.

The ratio between Sassicaia and Lafite has risen from 0.2 ten years ago to 0.42 today.

As the chart below shows, Sassicaia has seen stable and consistent growth. 2019-2022 was a period of upheaval for the brand, which benefited from excellent vintages that captured investors’ interest.

Screaming Eagle vs Lafite Rothschild

The price ratio between Screaming Eagle and Lafite Rothschild tells a story of increased volatility, which can largely be ascribed to the Californian cult wine. Screaming Eagle has seen bigger price rises, followed by sharper falls.

Today one can now get 4.8 bottles of Lafite for the price of Screaming Eagle, up from 2.7 a decade ago. The ratio peaked in February 2022, when it stood at 5:1.

California has enjoyed serious investment interest which has been reflected in its market share. Today the region holds around 7% of the fine wine trade by value and is the most important New World player.

While Lafite has come to represent better value when compared to other top wines, this is largely due to shifting regional market dynamics. The First Growth continues to entice buyers with brand strength, high-quality releases and returns on investment.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The place of the Bordeaux First Growths in a changing fine wine market

  • Once the dominant force in the fine wine market, the Bordeaux First Growths have lost market share due to its broadening.
  • In the last decade, Château Mouton Rothschild has been the best price performer, up 43.2%.
  • Château Haut-Brion offers the best value, with the highest average critic score and the lowest average price per case.

The Bordeaux First Growths in a broadening market

The Bordeaux First Growths have long been the cornerstone of the fine wine investment market. Back in 2010, they made up close to 90% of all Bordeaux trade by value – at a time, when Bordeaux’s share of the total market stood at 96%.

With the broadening of the market, their share has decreased and they now regularly account for around 30% of all Bordeaux secondary market trade (which itself has fallen below 35% annual average).

This trend was also reflected in the 2022 Power 100 list, which offered a snapshot of the ever-changing landscape of the secondary market. For the first time ever, no Bordeaux wines featured among the top ten most powerful fine wine labels.

Even if trade for these brands remains consistent or increases, the First Growths are facing greater competition. Still, they are among the wines with the greatest liquidity, attracting regular demand and high praise from critics year after year.

First Growths’ price performance

In terms of price performance, the five First Growths have followed a similar trajectory (i.e. rising post-Covid and dipping in the last year in line with the current market reality). The relative outcast has been Château Latour, whose performance was impacted by the decision to leave the En Primeur system in 2012. The wine has been the worst-performing First Growth, up just 17.9% in the last decade.

The best performer has been Château Mouton Rothschild, with an increase of 43.2%. Recent releases have elevated the performance of the brand, like the 2020 vintage, which boasts 100-points from The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley, 99-100 from James Suckling, 98-100 from Jeff Leve and 99 from Antonio Galloni (Vinous). ‘Off’ vintages like 2011, 2013 and 2014, which have greater room to rise, have also fared well over the last five years.

The second-best performer has been Château Margaux, which is also the second most affordable First Growth. Similarly, its biggest price risers have been 2014, 2011 and 2013. Less classical years reveal the strength of these brands, as demand for the First Growths remains consistently high regardless of the vintage.

First Growths’ price and score comparison

The table below shows the average price per case and critic score of the First Growths for vintages since 2000.

Château Haut-Brion tops the list with the highest average score (95.9) and the lowest average price per case (£4,595). With a price per point of £48, the wine seems to offer the best value among the First Growths. Vintages that have received 100-points from The Wine Advocate include 2018 (LPB), 2016 (LPB), 2015 (LPB), 2009 (LPB) and 2005 (RP).

Looking at the average prices, Château Lafite Rothschild stands out as the most expensive of the First Growths. The wine has achieved 100-points from The Wine Advocate for its 2019 (WK), 2018 (LPB), 2010 (LPB) and 2003 (RP) vintages.

In conclusion, the First Growths remain an important part of the changing secondary market, offering brand strength, consistently high quality and stable growth.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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La Place 2023: Critics’ verdict and top-scoring wines

  • Major critics have released their ‘Beyond Bordeaux’ reports, accessing the quality and value of this year’s La Place releases.
  • Tom Parker MW stated that there were ‘not as many hits as usual’.
  • Jane Anson awarded three wines 100-points.

As the La Place de Bordeaux campaign takes centre stage in September, major critics have shared their views on this year’s releases, including Jane Anson (Inside Bordeaux) and Tom Parker MW (JancisRobinson.com).

Both have commented on the quality of the wines but also on their pricing strategies and the value to be found. As discussed last week, a recurring theme in the campaign has been the price increases for the new releases, compared to previous vintages. This has done little to invigorate the market for buying at release for investment.

Tom Parker on the campaign’s ‘ambitious pricing’

In his ‘beyond Bordeaux’ assessment, Tom Parker MW expressed his wary view on the campaign’s strategy and pricing. He wrote that ‘the styles and regions are diverse, and the stories risk being lost in such a compressed release timetable’.

He added that ‘given the ambitious pricing for many of these wines, it is hard to see how they can all be sold through successfully’. Indeed, the campaign’s reception so far has been mediocre.

In terms of overall quality, Parker stated that ‘there were some excellent efforts though perhaps not as many hits as usual’.

Regional observations

Delving into individual regions, Parker noted the Californian producers’ split strategy, with ‘some releasing wines from the complicated 2020 vintage, with others choosing instead to offer museum releases and a few choosing to do both’. One such instance was Opus One, which opted for library release of its 2018 and 2019 vintages.

In terms of the Rhône releases, he observed that ‘Hommage à Jacques Perrin was good rather than great, and newly added and renamed Domaine de la Chapelle (formerly Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle) left a little to be desired in the tricky 2021 vintage’.

For him, ‘Argentina produced two of the most exciting wines’. He awared 18 out of 20 points to Zuccardi’s Finca Canal Uco and 17+/20 for Adrianna Vineyard from Catena Zapata.

Parker also complimented Australian wines which were ‘technically immaculate’ and named Wynn’s John Riddoch ‘a personal favourite’.

His top Italian pick was Masseto (18/20), which he described as ‘almost a guilty pleasure in 2020’ though ‘only for those with the deepest pockets’. Although the wine was released at a 10% premium on last year, the new release still offered value in the context of back vintages.

Jane Anson awards three wines 100-points

Among the releases so far, Jane Anson awarded three wines 100 points – Bibi Graetz Colore 2021, Yjar 2019, and Giaconda Chardonnay 2021. The La Place newcomer Chappellet, Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 received a near-perfect score of 99-points from the critic.

Anson drew attention to Sicily as a region that offers both quality and value, saying that ‘Sicilian reds, as ever, offer some of the best value wines not just of the September Releases, but of the wine industry in general’.

She also acknowledged that ‘there’s no doubt that the wider economic stresses globally are both helping and hurting the September Releases’.

Once again, this highlights the importance of correct pricing in a broadening fine wine market.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

 

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Four key market trends from the 2023 Liv-ex Classification

  • The fine wine market is diversifying, with Argentina and Switzerland making new entries in the 2023 Liv-ex Classification.
  • Bordeaux’s influence is waning, now accounting for less than 30% of wines in the classification, while other regions like Champagne rise in prominence.
  • Internal shifts in Burgundy indicate changing buying preferences, driven by the search for value and stock.

The Liv-ex Classification is a ranking of the world’s leading fine wine labels, based solely on their price. The classification takes into account minimum levels of activity and number of vintages traded over one year to present a more accurate picture of the market today. Like the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, the wines are divided into five tiers (price bands).

The 2023 edition featured 296 wines from nine countries. It presented a broad overview of the state of the secondary market – what is trading, and at what price levels. As the market continues to evolve, we break down four key trends from the 2023 Liv-ex classification.

Continued expansion in the world of fine wine

While the number of wines that qualified for inclusion in the 2023 rankings was lower than in the previous 2021 edition (349) due to changes in the methodology, the fine wine investment market has continued to diversify.

Argentina re-entered the rankings with five wines compared to having just one in 2019. Switzerland also joined the classification for the first time with Gantenbein Pinot Noir. Meanwhile, Spain and Chile saw 40% and 100% respective increases in the number of wines entering.

Regional diversity was particularly noticeable in the second-lowest priced 4th tier (£456-£637 per 12×75), which featured wines from France (24), Italy (16), Portugal (3), Australia (2), Spain (1), the USA (1), and Argentina (1).

Bordeaux among global competitors

It is no secret that Bordeaux’s dominance in the fine wine investment market has been fading since its glory days in 2009-2010. The continued broadening of the market has meant that the region has become one of many players, accounting for under 30% of the wines in the 2023 classification.

This has been further aided by its mediocre price performance relative to other regions. The Bordeaux 500 index has risen just 2.9% over the last two years, compared to a 19% move for its parental Liv-ex 1000 index, and a 36.7% increase for Champagne, which has been the best performer. All considered, Liv-ex wrote that ‘this pattern may well continue in future editions’ as new entrants challenge Bordeaux’s monopoly.

While Bordeaux’s influence wanes, other regions like Champagne are capturing the limelight.

The stellar rise of Champagne prices

Champagne has experienced a significant price surge in recent years, which has been reflected in the global rankings.

The majority of Champagnes (10) in the classification entered the first tier – wines priced above £3,641 per 12×75. The remaining 12 were split between tier 2 (£1,002-£3,640) and tier 3 (£638-£1,001). There were no Champagnes in tiers 4 and 5 (wines below £1,000 per case).

The most expensive Champagne was Jacques Selosse Millésime, with an average trade price of £32,516 per case, followed by Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay (£30,426) and Clos du Mesnil (£17,509). The latter has risen 105% in value over the last five years.

On average, Champagne prices are up 62.8% during this time. They peaked in October 2022, following a year and a half of steady ascent. Since then, the Liv-ex Champagne 50 index has entered a corrective phase – but not significant enough to change the region’s trajectory. Sustained demand has been further buoying its performance.

Internal reshuffling in Burgundy

Burgundy, home to the most expensive wines in the rankings, has been undergoing an internal shift. New entrants have replaced many of the labels in previous editions, signalling changes in buying preferences.

Heightened demand for the region in 2022 led buyers to explore different wines within Burgundy, seeking both value and stock availability. Some of the new entrants in the 2023 classification include Prieuré Roch Ladoix Le Clou Rouge, Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques and Domaine Trapet Père et Fils Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru.

Interestingly, while these new labels have entered the ranking, they seem to have replaced older, perhaps less active, Burgundy labels. Indeed, the overall proportion of Burgundy wines in the classification has remained steady, even as specific labels fall in and out of favour.

As new players emerge and existing ones adapt, one thing is clear: the fine wine market will continue to diversify and evolve, promising a fascinating future for everyone involved.

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