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What makes a great vintage?

  • Grape quality and winemaking are central to vintage calibre.
  • The importance of the vintage varies according to the region.
  • An ‘average’ vintage can also increase in value.

‘A year of extremes’, ‘good yields’, ‘a cool start and wet finish’, ‘poor’, ‘outstanding’. These are typical phrases that describe the character of a particular vintage – but how do they, ultimately, translate into quality? Anyone interested in wine investment needs to be aware of the vintage impact on price and performance.

This article explores the factors that shape a ‘great vintage’ – from vineyard conditions to winemaking methods. Key figures at Bordeaux estates also weigh in with their comments on their preferred vintages from their châteaux. 

What does vintage mean?

The vintage indicates the year grapes were harvested. The wine made from such fruit reflects the weather conditions that the vine growth cycle experienced. Features like terroir and winemaking methods also impact the quality and character of a wine. However, winemakers often comment that wine is made in the vineyard meaning that the condition of the fruit is the dominant factor in a wine’s profile, cellar-worthiness and, ultimately, value. 

Is vintage always important?

The vintage year is of vital importance in some regions but of little significance in others. This depends on the local climate. 

If a climate features variable weather conditions each season, the resulting wine will display different traits every year. For example, in one particular year, grapes could contain higher or lower acidity than in previous vintages, more or less fruit concentration, or different sugar levels. Such factors affect the quality and identity of the wine, its age-worthiness, its valuation and the potential for this valuation to grow.

Regions where weather conditions are inconsistent year-on-year include Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône Valley, Napa Valley, Tuscany, and parts of Australia. This is why vintages from these areas frequently feature in discussion on drinkability, ageing potential and wine investment opportunities.

In places where climate and weather are more stable and wine character more uniform, vintage is, generally, less important. Such wine-producing countries and regions include Argentina, Chile, Spain, parts of California and New Zealand.

What factors influence a vintage’s quality?

The natural factors that contribute to the quality of a particular vintage include optimal weather conditions. Throughout the growth cycle of the vine, a balance of adequate rainfall, warm and dry conditions during the growing season, and cool nights aid the development of quality fruit. This means that the harvested berries contain an ideal balance of acidity, sugars, and tannic potential for the style of wine being made. Extremes like frost, hail, heatwaves and heavy rain can negatively impact the delicate equilibrium of these features, influencing the calibre of the wine. 

On the occasions when all environmental conditions line up harmoniously, the result is exceptional fruit and what is often referred to as a ‘legendary’, ‘exceptional’ or ‘outstanding’ vintage. Such years are rare and, therefore, memorable with resulting wines much sought after. 

The human influence on vintage quality encompasses a wide spectrum of vineyard practices that are utilised whenever necessary to mitigate unfavourable weather. Skilled vineyard management includes:

  1. Protection against frost with vineyard heating strategies.
  2. Organic and/ or biodynamic practices that can affect wine quality and potential.
  3. Disease pressure tackling to help prevent damaging vine ailments like rot or mildew.
  4. Hydric stress or excess rainfall management implemented at key stages to ensure balanced grape flavour concentration.
  5. Canopy management and foliage thinning to enhance grape quality.
  6. Timely harvest for optimal flavour and ripeness balance.

These vineyard approaches are the outcome of years, decades and even centuries of vinicultural experience and constitute part of the heritage of each wine region, adding to a vintage’s esteem and worth. Winemaking expertise similarly contributes to enhancing the value of a vintage.

Can vintage value evolve?

In wine investment, the value of a vintage is not necessarily fixed. While great vintages tend to enjoy ongoing value growth, other years can also display value development potential.

In short, while vintage is an anchor for a wine’s value in regions where it is a factor, it does not bear the sole influence on valuation. Other important determinants include:

  • Provenance
  • Age-worthiness
  • Producer/ winemaker/ brand reputation
  • Critic scores
  • Storage conditions 
  • Scarcity
  • Market trends

The Bordeaux perspective

WineCap asked Bordeaux winemakers which of their own vintages they would purchase and why. The replies illustrated some of the elements that make a great vintage.

Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, co-owner and CEO of Château Angelus spoke of cellaring potential. ‘I would get a 2016,’ she said. ‘It is an incredible vintage, particularly for its depth, its complexity, and 100 years plus aging potential’.

Nicolas Audebert, winemaker and General Manager of Second Growth Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux mentioned how a vintage with a small crop led to an unexpectedly notable wine. ‘The concentration, the roundness, juiciness and intensity of the fruit in the 2018 is fantastic. It is a little bit outside of the classic, elegant style of Rauzan and Margaux, but so interesting in the reflection of the climate we had that year’.

Aline Baly, co-owner of Château Coutet, in the Barsac appellation highlighted excellent conditions and vineyard management for her choice: ‘The 2009 vintage is a combination of exceptional weather and exceptional work in the vineyard’.

For General Manager of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, Château La Dominique, Gwendoline Lucas, provenance and reputation were key to her vintage selection. ‘That would be 2019, because it’s the first vintage we created with Yann Monties, the technical director and also it is the 50th vintage for the Fayat family because they bought the château in 1969. So it is a very good vintage in terms of quality, but also full of history’.

Rarity and value-for-money drove the choice for Stéphane von Neipperg, owner of Château La Mondotte, a Premier Grand Cru Classé house in Saint Emilion. ‘It is very difficult to find 2009 of La Mondotte, but a very outstanding vintage if you want to invest in it in the future. Also, it is not so expensive’. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux winemakers reveal their top vintages for investment

WineCap has spoken with key figures from leading Bordeaux estates on their wine investment preferences. They share their thoughts about where they would invest €10,000 today.

  • Vintage quality is cited as the main driver of choice.
  • There is a variety of investment-worthy vintages across the region.
  • All interviewees chose vintages younger than 2015. 

Château Clinet, Pomerol – 2020 vintage

‘If I had €10,000 to spend on a vintage of Château Clinet for collecting, that would probably be the 2020 vintage’, said Ronan Laborde, Managing Director and owner of the house. ‘The 2020 vintage is a wine with a lot of qualities. It is very smooth, highly complex and has lot of vibrating intensity.’ 

Laborde said that, in terms of recent vintages, it was probably the one he was most proud of and recognised that 2020 had been highly supported by great weather conditions – plus ‘sometimes you have luck on your side’. ‘When I taste the wine now, I say, wow, it is the one I would like to invest for collection,’ he told WineCap.

The 2020 vintage was an illustration of how optimal weather conditions throughout the growing season and harvesting support excellent wine quality. The wine received 94 points from Neal Martin and 95 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous), who called it ‘hugely impressive, as it was from barrel’. Jeb Dunnuck awarded it 98 points, naming it ‘one of the finest Pomerols in the vintage’. The wine has fallen 13.5% in value since release. On a brand level, Clinet has enjoyed a 47% increase in the last decade

Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac – vintage diversity

Justin Tesseron, co-owner of Château Pontet-Canet had a more philosophical approach, emphasising ‘vertical’ cellaring for variety and value growth potential. ‘I would buy wine for every occasion…wine to drink now…wine to keep. I would buy wine for the future generations,’ he told WineCap.

‘But I think what is good in wine is to have one vintage for every kind of occasion. So, I would not spend €10,000 on one vintage. I would buy maybe the last ten vintages or similar.’

The majority of the last decade of Bordeaux vintages fell into ‘excellent’ and ‘legendary’ categories with 2015, 2016 and 2018 in Pauillac particularly notable years. When it comes to value and growth potential, the 2014, 2017 and 2020 vintages stand out. Prices for Pontet-Canet are up 11% in the last five years, and 28% over the last decade.

Château Troplong Mondot, Saint-Émilion – 2015 & 2019 vintages

For Ferréol du Fou, Commercial Director and Sales Manager of the château, dividing such a sum between collectible and ready-to-drink wines and among several vintages would be the best approach. 

‘If you have to invest, then invest in 2015,’ he said. ‘It still has a very good price and it will increase in the future, I’m sure. It is a huge vintage’. 

At the ten-year mark, critics have started to re-taste the 2015 vintage. The 2015 Troplong-Mondot currently sits 6.8% below its release price. For Antonio Galloni, it was ‘one of the stars of the vintage’ and ‘a viscerally exciting, resonant wine’. When writing for the Wine Advocate, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW gave it 96-points and said: ‘This pedal-to-the-metal beauty is the ultimate indulgence for the hedonists!’

Ferréol du Fou also advised buying the 2019 vintage for investment, released during Covid: ‘It is first of all an amazing vintage. Plus it is one of the cheapest vintage from Bordeaux and Troplong Mondot’. ‘So this is the one you have to invest as soon as possible to make sure to have first few bottles in your cellar and to feel that you have landed a good deal,’ said Fou. 

The wine is currently available 15.0% below its release price and remains one of the most undervalued Troplong-Mondot vintages in the market today. On average, prices for the brand have risen 49% in the last decade.

Château Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac – 2019 vintage

Nicolas Glumineau, CEO and winemaker at Château Pichon Comtesse did not hesitate in his selection of an investment-friendly vintage. ‘I would have the 2019 Pichon Comtesse,’ he said.

Pichon Comtesse 2019 was one of only two wines during the En Primeur campaign to receive a potential perfect score from Vinous’s Neal Martin (98-100). The critic claimed that ‘you are not looking at a modern day 1982 or 2016, but something even better and more profound’. Upon tasting in bottle, Martin gave it 99 points, calling it ‘stunning’ and noting that ‘the nose reminds [him] of Latour’. Galloni was also full of praise: ‘One of the most elegant Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande I can remember tasting’. 

The vintage also presents great investment value. It is one of the best priced vintages, along with the lower-scoring 2014 and 2017. 

Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe – 2020 vintage

With €10,000, Basile Tesseron, General Manager of Lafon-Rochet, would invest in a relatively recent vintage. ‘I would buy 2020 for keeping,’ he told WineCap.

The wine received 96 points from Antonio Galloni, who called it ‘superb’ and ‘one of the classiest, more refined Saint-Estèphes’. Neal Martin (93 points) also agreed that it was ‘excellent’.

The 2020 vintage has fallen in value since release and sits below the brand’s average price. Our Lafon-Rochet index is up 57% in the last decade.

Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estèphe – 2016, 2018 & 2020 vintages

Charles Thomas, Commercial Director of Cos d’Estournel admitted that he did not see wine as an asset class but rather a product to be enjoyed with friends. ‘But if I had to, obviously I would take 2016, 2018 and 2020’.

Of these three vintages, only the 2016 is currently more expensive than at release, up 10.5%. The wine boasts three 100-point scores from Neal Martin, James Suckling and Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW. Meanwhile, the 2020 Cos d’Estournel is currently down 34.4% since release, and the 2018 – 43.8%. 

The brand’s value has risen 39% in the last decade. 

See also our Bordeaux I Regional Report

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: an overview of the current campaign

  • Three weeks into the Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, we examine the pricing trends of the releases so far.
  • In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.
  • The Bordeaux 2023 vintage is characterised by diverse critic scores and some high achievers.

This year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign kicked off early and rapidly gained momentum. The first 2023 releases landed in the last week of April, shortly after trade professionals had returned from the region and before the publication of most critic reports.

Pricing, as always, remained a central issue. Questions arose about whether châteaux would consider the current market conditions, whether anticipated price reductions would drive interest, and ultimately, whether the Bordeaux 2023 vintage would prove a worthy investment.

Three weeks into the campaign, several major châteaux, including First Growths like Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, and Lafite Rothschild, have already launched their 2023 wines.

With most critic assessments now available and pricing trends becoming clearer, we delve into the details of the campaign so far.

Noteworthy releases

Château Léoville-Las Cases’ 2023 release marked a promising start to this year’s En Primeur. On April 30th, the wine was offered at a 40% discount on the previous year’s release. However, some older vintages still presented better value.

The first ‘great value’ release came from Château Lafite Rothschild in the same week. Its second wine, Carruades de Lafite, represented the lowest priced offering from the estate on the market today, playing on En Primeur’s original premise.

Similarly, Mouton Rothschild and Petit Mouton presented attractive opportunities for investors, released at 34.6% and 25.1% discounts on last year’s offerings respectively.

As a result, Liv-ex reported that both Château Lafite Rothschild 2023 and Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 have made their way onto the secondary market – although they have traded below their original release prices.

In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.

The average price cuts so far have been 21.5% compared to last year, with reductions ranging from 40% to none. Despite these cuts, many older vintages remain more affordable and often boast similar or better ratings, including those from 2019, 2017, and 2014.

Diverse scores and high achievers

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage has received a wide array of scores from leading critics, demonstrating a spectrum of quality across various appellations and estates.

Château Margaux consistently received high acclaim, with scores of 97-100 from both Antonio Galloni and William Kelley, and 99-100 from James Suckling. Neal Martin rated it as his second- highest wine of the vintage.

Another high achiever, Le Pin, received top marks with a perfect 100 from Peter Moser of Falstaff and 99-100 from Suckling. Château Montrose is also noteworthy, with a barrel range of 97-100 from Kelley and 99-100 from Suckling.

The critical consensus indicates a preference for wines from the Left Bank, which are noted to have fared better overall. The vintage is characterised by wines that lean towards a classic style, marked by their freshness and moderate alcohol content.

Despite the mixed nature of the vintage, there are several standout wines that show considerable promise. These wines are not only great for adding to a collection due to their potential to appreciate in value, but they also offer the kind of quality that makes them worth seeking out for those looking to enjoy fine wines in the years to come.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The impact of Mouton Rothschild’s artist labels on market value

  • This Friday will see the artist label announcement of Château Mouton Rothschild’s 2021 vintage.
  • Over the last ten vintages, the average price increase in the month following the announcement has been 5%, signalling a potential investment opportunity.
  • The 2000 vintage illustrates the power of the special label, perfectly weathering market downturns.

Every year, Château Mouton Rothschild commissions a different artist to produce the label for their Grand Vin. The tradition began in 1945 when Baron Philippe de Rothschild decided to celebrate the end of World War II by creating a special label featuring a ‘V’ for victory, designed by Philippe Jullian. Since then, the list of alumni has included the likes of Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Andy Warhol, David Hockney, Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor, Lucien Freud, and Wassily Kandinsky. This Friday will see the label reveal of the 2021 vintage.

How has the label announcement impacted prices?

Over the years, this innovative approach has turned the Mouton Rothschild labels into a fusion of fine art and fine wine, making each bottle a highly desirable collector’s item. What’s more, prices for Mouton Rothschild have consistently increased in the month following the announcement.

The increase averages just under 5% over the last ten vintages. The 2012 vintage, with a label by Miquel Barcelo, rose the most, up 14.9%, followed by the Xu Bing’s 2018, up 12.6%. Last year’s label reveal of the 2020 vintage drove prices 8.6% higher in a month. There has been only one exception to this pattern with the 2015 vintage, down 4.3%. However, the wine is still up 11% since release.

In the last decade, prices for the brand, represented by our Mouton Rothschild index, have risen 44% on average.

Which are the best value labels today?

While there is a strong investment case for the Grand Vin, which vintages offer the best value today? The 2020 boasts 100-points from The Wine Advocate and is 13% cheaper than the other 100-point 2016 vintage. Its price rose 8.6% after the label announcement, which was designed by Peter Doig.

The 2021 is the most affordable recent release with a current Market Price of £4,400 per 12×75. However, given the trend of price rises post-announcement, one can expect potential changes.

Otherwise, buyers might wish to look back at the 2019 vintage, which received 100-points from Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (The Wine Independent) and 97 points from Neal Martin (Vinous). The wine’s label, ‘The solar iris of Mouton’, was created by Olafur Eliasson.

The case of the 2000 vintage

If there is one special bottle that illustrates the power of art driving prices, it is that of the 2000 vintage. The bottle itself features an intricate gold engraving of the famous ram (Mouton) of the Rothschild coat of arms and stands out for its elegance and symbolic significance.

Mouton Rothschild 2000 weathered the Bordeaux market downturn of 2011-2014, when prices for the other First Growths fell sharply. The label continued to enjoy heightened demand in the Asian market, which only increased in 2015 – the year of the sheep, according to the Chinese zodiac. The wine has risen close to 750% in value since its release – an investment case that speaks for itself.

The innovative tradition of artist-designed labels by Château Mouton Rothschild not only merges the worlds of fine art and winemaking but also significantly elevates the market value, making them coveted treasures for collectors and investors alike.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.