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Cautious optimism for Australian wine amid tariff review

  • Australia and China have agreed to a suspension of their ongoing dispute over the steep tariffs imposed on Australian wine since November 2020.
  • The tariffs had a profound impact on demand and price performance of Australian wine.
  • Australia’s best price performers have risen over 40% in value in the last year.

Australian wine tariffs under review

In a significant shift that could redefine trade relations between Australia and China, the two nations have agreed to a suspension of their ongoing dispute over the steep tariffs imposed on Australian wine since November 2020. This development comes ahead of Australian Prime Minister Anthony Albanese’s forthcoming trip to Beijing, marking a potential thaw in the trade tensions that have severely impacted Australia’s wine industry.

While the Chinese government has consented to an expedited five-month review of the punitive duties, which have plummeted Australia’s wine exports from over $1 billion to a mere $12 million, there remains a cautious optimism. Despite this progress, industry experts predict that even if the tariffs are promptly revoked, the Australian wine sector, which has undergone substantial restructuring in response to the lost Chinese market, would still require approximately two years to recuperate and effectively redistribute its current surplus.

Impact on Australia’s wine investment market

The Chinese tariffs, ranging from 180% to 200% on Australian wine imports, had a profound impact on Australia’s budding secondary market. The country has historically been the second most important fine wine player from the New World after the U.S., enjoying greater demand than South Africa, Chile or Argentina.

After a record-breaking year of trade in 2020, Australia’s investment market shrank in 2021. The number of different Australian wines traded on Liv-ex declined 32.2% year-on-year, as demand decreased.

Fewer wines from Australia made it into the rankings of the most powerful brands in the world. Australia’s leading label, Penfolds Grange, dropped in the 2021 Power 100 rankings, from fifth in 2020 to 45th place in 2021. In last year’s edition of the rankings, the wine fell further – from 45th to 55th place, while Henschke exited altogether. Part of the reason is that Penfolds has historically been heavily reliant on the Chinese market. In an attempt to rebuilt tariff-hit business, earlier this year Treasury Wine Estates, owner of Penfolds, announced the introduction of its first China-sourced premium wine.

Australian wine price performance

Since the tariff introduction, prices for some of the top wines have dipped, creating pockets of opportunity. For instance, the average price of Henschke Hill of Grace is down 4% in the last year; similarly, Penfolds Bin 707 is down 9%. While their trajectories are different, the long-term growth trend remains, with over 90% rise in the last decade.

Some Australian brands have seen impressive price performance despite the ongoing trade tension. The table below shows the five best performers on Wine Track in the last year, which have risen between 31% and 41% on average. Clarendon Hills Brookman Syrah leads the rankings, with an average price per case of £1,042. Two Hands Aphrodite has been the second-best performer, up 39%.

The cautious optimism for Australian wine will likely affect its secondary market performance. As demand rises, so will prices. It remains to be seen if a potential tariff suspension will bring back the momentum to a region that has quietened down in the last three years but nonetheless remains an important New World representative.

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Penfolds Innovates New French-Australian Blend

The innovative Australian producer Penfolds is pushing winemaking boundaries even further with its soon-to-be-released wine that is a blend of Bordeaux and Australian grapes.

‘Penfolds II Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2019’ blends Bordeaux-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes with Shiraz from South Australia. The project was brought to fruition through Penfold’s partnership with Thiénot, a Champagne house that owns Dourthe in Bordeaux.

Peter Gago, Penfolds’ chief winemaker, was delighted at a press conference in London with the imminent release of the new project, but highlighted the logistical problems in shipping a container of French wine to Australia where it was blended with the Shiraz. Both components were from the 2019 vintage, although the Shiraz was six months older due to its grapes having been harvested from vineyards located in the southern hemisphere.

Penfolds’ aim was to make wines sourced from around the world in its ‘house style’. Gago added that the key to making the wines was to have ‘ripe tannins from the start’. 

The wine is being released this month under the label ‘FWT’ (French Winemaking Trial), along with another expression that’s a Bordeaux blend which also forms part of the ‘Collection’. The objective behind this activity is to expand the Penfolds range while keeping its signature character.

Gago commented on this new release, saying: ‘it is done through the Penfolds lens: we are not saying the wine is better, but done in the Penfolds way.’

This is just the beginning of the pioneering Australian brand breaking new ground. One interesting future project would be a blend of Australian Shiraz with Syrah grapes from the Northern Rhône, as the Rhône is the original heartland of Syrah, better known as Shiraz in the New World. Gago confirmed that we might not have too long to wait as a ‘project with the Rhône Valley’ is in the pipeline. 

There’s certainly a lot going on at Penfolds and we’re excited to learn what the next new innovative launch looks like.

Read more about Penfolds’ recent made in China project here.

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Penfolds to Produce Special Made-in-China Bottling

Penfolds is Treasury Wine Estates’ most iconic brand. Its most sought-after bottling is undoubtedly ‘Grange’ which is revered by wine lovers and collectors the world over and has received a wealth of 100 point scores, rave reviews and awards since its first official vintage in 1960.

China is an important market for Treasury Wine Estates and its Penfolds wines are in high demand. However, due to the eye-wateringly high tariffs (up to 200%) that were imposed by Beijing in November 2020, its exports to the country are down by 26%. 

In order to supply its wines to China as smoothly as possible in future, Treasury Wine Estates has found a way to bypass the tariffs: by growing grapes and making wines domestically to create ‘Penfolds China’. The international drinks company has been experimenting with viticulture in the western province of Yunnan in the Ningxia and Shangri-la regions and is happy with the results of its ‘primarily Cabernet-based’ wines so far, as Chief Executive Officer Tim Ford commented: ‘China is an emerging fine winemaking region and we’re confident we can produce a premium Chinese Penfolds that maintains the distinctive Penfolds house style and uncompromising quality’.

Penfolds is expected to release this new wine in the second half of 2022 and each bottle will reach between A$30 – A$50, as reported by Bloomberg.

This isn’t the first time that Penfolds has looked to foreign shores in order to push winemaking boundaries. It launched Penfolds California last year, with a series of wines made in Napa from Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. ‘Quantum’, its top cuvée, was released at £545, 10% higher than Grange in the UK. Interestingly, its parent company has also acquired vineyard holdings in Champagne and Bordeaux.

All eyes are sure to be on China, Champagne and Bordeaux over the coming months and years as the fine wine world waits to see which other innovative and ground-breaking wines Penfolds releases from both established and emerging wine regions.