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The evolution of Bordeaux’s vineyard prices: what’s behind the price tag?

Pauillac Bordeaux vineyards
  • Vineyard prices in Pauillac have risen over 700% in the last 30 years.  
  • Sauternes has faced a 90% decline during the same period. 
  • Pomerol has significantly outpaced Saint-Émilion, partly due to its compact size and luxury appeal.

The American Association of Wine Economists has released data on the evolution of Bordeaux vineyard prices from 1991 to 2023. Over this period, Bordeaux has become the centrepiece of a thriving, regulated wine investment market.

Global demand for Bordeaux wines has fueled remarkable growth, with top estates achieving iconic status as luxury brands. A 2011 valuation revealed that over 50 of Bordeaux’s leading châteaux belong to the €50 million club, with a combined market value exceeding €15 billion.

In the past two decades, Bordeaux fine wine prices have risen by an average of 200%, accompanied by significant increases in vineyard prices in its most sought-after appellations.

This article delves into the shifting dynamics of Bordeaux’s wine industry, examining their impact on vineyard prices and the contrasting trajectories of key sub-regions like Pauillac, Sauternes, Pomerol, and Saint-Émilion.

American Association of Wine Economists Bordeaux vineyard prices

Pauillac’s extraordinary growth

Pauillac’s vineyard prices have experienced extraordinary growth over the past three decades, surging by 700.6% from €374,700 per hectare in 1991 to €3 million in 2023. The region is home to the First Growths Lafite Rothschild, Latour, and Mouton Rothschild.

When compared to other regions, Pauillac’s relatively small size – spanning approximately 1,200 hectares under vine – is a key factor contributing to its high vineyard prices. This limited vineyard area, combined with the prestige of its châteaux, creates a scarcity effect that drives up demand and valuation. Despite its compact footprint, Pauillac has managed to consistently dominate the fine wine market.

The rise of Pauillac aligns with the global increase in demand for fine Bordeaux wines, particularly during the 2000s and early 2010s, when new markets like China became major consumers. However, this growth has slowed in recent years. This could stem from market saturation, with collectors shifting their attention to other Bordeaux appellations or entirely different regions such as Burgundy and Champagne. 

The decline of Sauternes

In stark contrast to Pauillac, Sauternes has suffered a decline, losing nearly 90% of its vineyard value since 1991. Once valued at €293,000 per hectare – higher than Saint-Émilion at the time – Sauternes vineyards are now priced at around €30,000 per hectare, according to AAWE. This fall can largely be attributed to waning consumer interest in sweet wines.

The production costs associated with Sauternes, which involve the labour-intensive process of harvesting botrytised (noble rot) grapes further compound the issue. While top producers like Château d’Yquem continue to uphold the region’s reputation, the broader market for Sauternes is facing challenges due to changing consumer preferences.

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion: a tale of two trajectories

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion present an interesting comparison, with Pomerol emerging as a high-growth luxury niche and Saint-Émilion maintaining steady performance. From 1991 to 2023, Pomerol vineyard prices rose by 213.4%, reaching €2 million per hectare, while Saint-Émilion saw only a modest 14.7% increase to €300,000 per hectare. These differences can be explained by several key factors.

  1. Size and scale

Saint-Émilion spans a vast 5,400 hectares, compared to Pomerol’s much smaller 800 hectares. This sheer scale means Saint-Émilion includes a wide range of producers, from elite châteaux like Cheval Blanc and Ausone to lesser-known estates producing more affordable wines. In contrast, Pomerol’s compact size results in a higher concentration of prestigious vineyards, with fewer smaller players to dilute its overall market perception.

  1. Classification systems

Saint-Émilion’s classification system – updated every decade – categorises its estates into tiers such as Premier Grand Cru Classé A and B, and Grand Cru Classé. However, the frequent use of the “Grand Cru” designation (applied to over 60% of the region’s wines) might work against it, and partly diminish the exclusivity of this title.

Conversely, Pomerol lacks any formal classification system, allowing individual estates like Pétrus and Le Pin to dominate through their reputations alone. This lack of stratification has paradoxically bolstered the region’s image as a luxury appellation. Its reputation as a source of small-production, Merlot-dominant wines has further cemented its status as a ‘cult’ appellation among collectors and investors. 

  1. Smaller players and price dilution

Saint-Émilion’s large number of smaller, lesser-known producers contributes to its lower average vineyard price. These producers often operate outside the Grand Cru Classé system, pulling down the overall valuation of the region. In Pomerol, the scarcity of vineyards and the dominance of high-profile estates create a ‘halo effect’ that supports consistently high valuations, even for lesser-known properties.

Implications for the wine investment market

The contrasting trajectories of Bordeaux’s appellations highlight the complexity of the fine wine investment market. Pauillac’s recent plateau demonstrates that even the most prestigious regions are not immune to market saturation, while Pomerol’s steady growth underscores the enduring appeal of scarcity and exclusivity. In contrast, Sauternes illustrates the vulnerability of regions reliant on shifting consumer preferences. However, renewed efforts by producers to embrace sustainability, innovation, and rebranding may help revive interest in sweet wines and mitigate some of these challenges.

Despite fluctuations, Bordeaux’s iconic estates and global reputation remain a cornerstone of the fine wine market. For investors and collectors, navigating the nuanced landscape of vineyard prices and evolving market dynamics will be crucial to securing long-term success in this ever-changing industry.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today

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Q3 2024 Fine Wine Report

The fine wine market continued its downward trend throughout Q3 2024, but there are reasons for cautious optimism. Our Q3 2024 Fine Wine Report highlights the main themes that shaped the market, from regional performance to specific brand successes, and provides an outlook for the remainder of the year.

Executive summary

  • Since October 2022, fine wine prices have been in consistent decline, with a 4% drop on average in Q3 2024.
  • Bordeaux experienced the steepest fall at 4.4%, while Champagne defied the trend with a modest 0.4% increase last quarter.
  • Steady demand for fine wine continues to suggest a price recovery on the horizon.
  • Certain brands have outperformed the market, including Ruinart, Taittinger, and Château de Beaucastel.
  • Krug Vintage Brut 2004 has been the best-performing wine year-to-date, up 21.6%.
  • This year has already seen several broken auction records, including for high-profile Burgundy, which points to continued interest in fine wine.
  • Nine wines received perfect 100-point scores by Jane Anson in her recent Bordeaux 2009 and 2010 vintage retrospective.
  • France’s 2024 harvest is projected to be down 22% compared to last year, and 15% below the five-year average.
  • Looking ahead to Q4 2024, the market continues to present attractive buying opportunities, especially for investors with a long-term vision.

The trends that shaped the fine wine market

Global market recovery driven by rate cuts

In Q3 2024, global markets showed signs of recovery, bolstered by central banks pivoting towards interest rate cuts as inflation began to ease. Following turbulence in early August, stock markets rebounded, setting new records by the end of the quarter. Central banks, including the US Federal Reserve, the European Central Bank (ECB), and the Bank of England, all shifted their focus from inflation control to stimulating economic growth. The Fed’s September rate cut – the first since 2020 – catalysed a surge in US stocks, and similar moves from other central banks supported this global rebound. Despite lingering concerns about a potential US recession and Japanese market volatility, the overall global outlook improved, with lower rates and better economic conditions presenting growth opportunities.

Fine wine prices fall 4% in Q3

In contrast to the broader economic recovery, the fine wine market remained bearish, with a 4% average drop in prices in Q3. The Liv-ex 100 index saw its steepest fall of the year, down 1.7% in October. Bordeaux led the decline, with a 4.4% drop, although there was a slight uptick in Sauternes prices. Champagne offered a bright spot, rising 0.4% last quarter, with brands like Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Taittinger posting strong returns (over 30% in the last six months). This mixed performance underscores the complexity of the fine wine market, where price movements can vary widely by region and brand.

New fine wine releases beyond Bordeaux

As always, autumn brought the highly anticipated La Place de Bordeaux campaign, with major New World brands such as Almaviva, Seña, and Penfolds Grange releasing their latest vintages. However, this year’s campaign fell flat, with many new releases priced similarly to last year, despite older vintages showing better value and investment potential due to price corrections. Investors may find more favourable opportunities in back vintages that boast higher critic scores at lower prices.

Regional fine wine performance in Q3

The fine wine market has now returned to its 2021 levels, with prices declining across most regions in Q3 2024, except for Champagne, which recorded a modest 0.4% increase.

Bordeaux experienced the most significant drop, falling 4.4%, driven down primarily by the Second Wine 50 index, which plunged 6.6%, and the Right Bank 50 index, down 4.6%. Many wines from the 2019 vintage, which had previously appreciated in value, have now returned to their original release prices.

Despite this trend, Bordeaux is enjoying steady market demand, taking over a third of the market by value. Moreover, Jane Anson recently revisited the 2009 and 2010 vintages, awarding nine wines 100 points – a move likely to stimulate demand and prices.

When it comes to other regions, Italy and Burgundy also saw a 2% drop in Q3. The Rhône was somewhat more resilient, experiencing a smaller decrease of 0.8%.

The best-performing wines

While the broader market continues to face challenges, certain wines buck the trend, reinforcing the importance of strategic, brand-specific investment decisions.

In Q3 2024, some brands have delivered exceptional returns. The table below showcases the best-performing wines year-to-date, with regions like Tuscany and the Rhône dominating the list.

Leading the pack is Krug 2004, which saw an impressive rise of 21.6%, reflecting the continued strength of Champagne in the investment market. Earlier this year, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) rescored the wine, giving it 98 points. He described it as a ‘gorgeous Champagne that is just beginning to enter its first plateau of maturity’.

Close behind is Domaine du Pégau’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2012, which appreciated by 21.2%. Sassicaia 2011 follows with a 21% increase, while its 2015 vintage takes the tenth spot, with a 12.1% rise.

Vega Sicilia Único also features twice with its 2010 and 2011 vintages, demonstrating the increased demand for Spanish wines.

Wines from Bordeaux and the Rhône also make the list, showcasing the diversity of the wine investment market.

The most expensive wines in 2024

The world’s most expensive wines in 2024 are overwhelmingly dominated by Burgundy. At the top of the list is Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, with an average price of £221,233 per case. Following closely is Domaine d’Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, priced at £204,328.

Other notable entries include:

  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru at £141,979.
  • Liber Pater, from Bordeaux, priced at £140,009, stands out as the only non-Burgundy wine in the list.
  • Domaine Leroy, Richebourg Grand Cru, valued at £120,007, further establishes Burgundy’s dominance as a highly collectible wine region.

Burgundy producers such as Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay appear multiple times on the list. The trend reflects how scarcity, reputation, and critical acclaim are key drivers of value, especially as the market for fine wine becomes increasingly selective in uncertain economic times.

Further entries include:

  • Domaine Leroy, Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru at £103,844.
  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru at £93,818.
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Montrachet Grand Cru at £89,529.
  • Domaine Leroy, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru at £81,827.
  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Meursault Premier Cru, Les Gouttes d’Or at £80,715.

This dominance by Burgundy reflects its unmatched status in the global wine market, where scarcity and consistent quality continue to command premium prices.

For more information, visit Wine Track.

Fine wine news

The autumn La Place de Bordeaux release campaign

The 2024 La Place de Bordeaux campaign saw the latest releases from Masseto, Solaia, Seña, Penfolds Grange and many more. However, many of these new vintages were released at the same or slightly higher price levels as last year, despite a general market decline, making them less attractive from an investment perspective.

For instance, Masseto 2021 received a perfect 100-point score from Antonio Galloni but was priced at the same level as last year, with back vintages such as 2017, 2018 and 2019 offering better value. Meanwhile, the 100-point Solaia 2021 was released at a 15.7% premium on the 2020 vintage.

From Chile, the 2022 Seña and Viñedo Chadwick were offered at last year’s prices, but older, higher-scoring vintages such as Seña 2019 and Viñedo Chadwick 2021 remain more affordable. Penfolds Grange 2020 saw a small price increase, yet back vintages like the 100-point 2013 offer greater investment potential. Overall, back vintages, with comparable or higher critic scores, often provide better value for investors looking to capitalise on the current market dip.

Historically low yields in France

The 2024 French wine harvest is projected to be one of the smallest in recent history, with regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux experiencing significant declines due to adverse weather conditions.

Burgundy’s output is projected to be down by 25% compared to 2023, while Bordeaux is facing a 10% drop, resulting in the region’s lowest production volume since 2017.

Historically, such scarcity in Burgundy has driven secondary market price increases, as collectors rush to secure rare wines. However, the economic downturn may temper this trend, making selectivity key for investors. In Bordeaux, while smaller harvests often support price stability for premium wines, the broader market conditions may limit price recoveries, especially for mid-tier labels.

Q4 2024 market outlook

The consistent decline in fine wine prices leaves many wondering when the market will stabilise. Despite this downward trend, several factors point toward potential recovery and attractive buying opportunities in Q4.

Firstly, strong demand for select wines persists, particularly for brands that continue to outperform the market. This year has already seen several broken auction records, including for high-profile Burgundy, which points to continued interest in fine wine.

While the market as a whole is facing challenges, strategic investment in the right wines can still yield impressive returns. Investors looking to capitalise on market lows should consider brands which have consistently shown growth despite broader regional declines.

The global economic backdrop also provides reasons for optimism. Central banks, led by the US Federal Reserve, have shifted towards interest rate cuts which could stimulate further investment in alternative assets like fine wine.

In terms of regional performance, the ongoing declines in key regions may start to stabilise, as already seen in Champagne. Despite a 4.4% drop in Q3, Bordeaux remains a dominant player with one-third of the market share by value. With critics such as Jane Anson awarding nine perfect 100-point scores to Bordeaux wines from the 2009 and 2010 vintages, we may see renewed interest in classic vintages.

In summary, Q4 2024 offers a unique window of opportunity for long-term investors. With the current decline, strategic investments in high-performing brands and undervalued vintages could offer substantial returns on the road to recovery.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

Bordeaux 2023
  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.