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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

Bordeaux 2023
  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The importance of wine storage

wine storage
  • Storage is arguably the most important factor in preserving the quality of a fine wine and is thus fundamentally linked to its value as an investment.
  • A well-documented history of storage and ownership can significantly increase a wine’s value, serving as proof of its authenticity and condition.
  • Storing wine in-bond has multiple benefits, including deferred taxes, easier international trading and guaranteed provenance.

Wine storage has undergone significant transformation over the years, evolving from traditional cellars in private homes to sophisticated, climate-controlled facilities that cater to the needs of serious collectors and investors. The way wine is stored can greatly impact its quality, and by extension, its value as an investment.

Why is wine storage important

A large part of fine wine’s performance as an asset is down to its ability to improve as it ages. If the quality increases in time, so does its value.

Storage is arguably the most important factor in preserving the quality of a wine. If a bottle is stored improperly, the opposite can happen. Fluctuating temperatures, exposure to sunlight, vibrations and humidity can all degrade the quality of the wine and lead it to lose its value.

By storing your assets in professional dedicated wine storage facilities, you can guarantee that when the time comes to sell, it will be in the best possible condition. This will give the final consumer confidence that the wine is of the expected quality, defending its future value.

The evolution of wine storage solutions

Historically, wine storage was the domain of underground cellars, designed to provide the cool, stable temperatures and humidity levels that wine needs to age gracefully. These cellars, often part of private homes in wine-producing regions, set the standard for ideal wine storage conditions: darkness, consistent temperature around 12-14°C (55-57°F), and relative humidity around 60-70%.

In recent decades, technology has revolutionised wine storage. Climate-controlled wine cabinets and refrigeration units can replicate the conditions of a traditional cellar, making it possible to store wine in any environment. Innovations such as dual-zone temperature controls, UV-protected glass doors, and vibration reduction technology have further enhanced the ability to preserve wine at optimal conditions.

Moreover, professional wine storage facilities offer a level of sophistication and security beyond what most private cellars can provide. These facilities are equipped with state-of-the-art climate control systems, backup power sources to protect against outages, and high-security measures to guard against theft. They also offer inventory management services, ensuring that wines are stored properly and can be easily accessed or audited by their owners.

For investors, the use of such facilities can enhance the value of their collection, as provenance – the history of wine’s ownership and storage – becomes increasingly important in the secondary fine wine market.

The role of provenance in wine investment

Provenance is a critical factor in the wine investment market. A well-documented history of storage and ownership can significantly increase a wine’s value, serving as proof of its authenticity and condition. Professional storage facilities often provide detailed records that can be invaluable in establishing provenance, making wines stored in these conditions more desirable to collectors and investors alike.

In contrast, wines stored in private cellars may lack comprehensive records, potentially diminishing their market value, regardless of their quality or rarity.

In-bond storage

Bonded status is what unlocks the secondary market for fine wine.

Storing wine in-bond means that the wine is kept in a secure warehouse under government supervision without the payment of duty or tax. For wine investors, this presents a significant advantage, as it allows for the storage of wine without the financial burden of taxes until the wine is either sold or removed for personal consumption. Typically, wines can be stored in-bond at their point of entry into a country or transferred to a bonded warehouse specifically designated for wine storage. The wines stored in-bond are trade-ready; they sit within the secondary market ecosystem and can be made immediately available for sale and collection.

Implications for wine investment

The ability to store wine in-bond has several implications for investors.

Deferred taxes: Investors can defer tax payments, improving cash flow and reducing initial investment costs. This is particularly beneficial for wines intended for resale, as the duty and VAT (value-added tax) are only paid if and when the wine enters the domestic market.

International trading: In-bond storage facilitates easier trading of wine on an international scale. Wines can be bought and sold multiple times while still in-bond, without incurring tax liabilities until they are finally withdrawn for consumption. This can significantly enhance the liquidity of wine investments.

Provenance and condition: Bonded warehouses are not only secure but are also designed to provide optimal storage conditions, similar to professional wine storage facilities. The rigorous documentation and oversight in these warehouses ensure the provenance and condition of the wine, crucial factors in maintaining and enhancing its value.

Market value: Wines stored in-bond are often more attractive to buyers, especially in international markets. The assurance of proper storage conditions and the ease of transfer without immediate tax implications make these wines more desirable, potentially increasing their market value.

Storing wine with WineCap

WineCap use London City Bond’s newest storage facility, Drakelow. Three and a half miles of tunnels were blasted out of solid rock, as part of the lavish refurbishment of this former nuclear bunker, which started operating as a dedicated wine storage facility in 2023. Highly secure with entirely natural permanent temperature control supported by the latest dehumidification equipment, Drakelow is the natural choice for maturing reserves.

Every wine in our storage facility gets its own unique identification number (UIDS), thus ensuring that each case has clear ownership.

The practice of storing wine in-bond in bonded warehouses represents a critical aspect of the wine investment landscape. As the wine market continues to mature, the importance of professional storage and provenance documentation is likely to grow, influencing both the strategies of investors and the broader dynamics of wine collecting and investing. Whether opting for a meticulously maintained home cellar or entrusting a collection to a professional storage facility, understanding the impact of storage on wine’s quality and value is essential for any serious wine investor.

Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Assessing the Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign

Burgundy 2022
  • Burgundy prices continued to spiral downwards in January, falling 3.7%.
  • This created a challenging backdrop for the unfolding Burgundy 2022 campaign, which saw about 10% of producers reduce pricing year-on-year.
  • The current market dynamics offer investors a unique window to enrich their collections with both new gems and proven performers.

Burgundy took the spotlight at the beginning of the year with the unfolding 2022 En Primeur campaign. Already in our Q4 2023 report, we questioned the potential of the new releases to stimulate an otherwise dormant market. On the one hand, there was the excitement of the new mixed with high quality and quantity playing to the campaign’s advantage; on the other, much depended on pricing.

Market conditions and pricing challenges

Burgundy prices continued to spiral downwards in January, with the Liv-ex Burgundy 150 index starting the year with a 3.7% decrease. To say that this created a challenging backdrop for the new releases would be an understatement. Prices at release had to come down.

And partially they did. According to Liv-ex, about 10% of the top producers ‘lowered their prices year-on-year’. However, ‘about 40% raised their prices, even if only modestly’. Thanks to greater quantities, allocations were mostly restored.

Burgundy 2022 – ‘a treasure trove’

As the first releases landed, Burgundy 2022 enjoyed a positive reception from critics and trade. Neal Martin (Vinous) advised that ‘if your favourite growers’ price tags seem fair, then I would not hesitate diving in’. He described the 2022 vintage as ‘Burgundy’s latest trick: a treasure trove of bright ‘n bushy-tailed whites and reds in a season that implied such wines would be impossible, wines predestined to give immense drinking pleasure’.

Investment perspective and older vintages

However, prices for older vintages remain under pressure, creating buying opportunities for already physical and readily available wines. For instance, three of Burgundy’s outstanding long-term wine performers have all seen dips between 15% and 10% in the last year. Over the last decade, however, DRC Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault Blochet is up 388%; Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares – 339%, and Armand Rousseau Chambertin – 279% on average.

Burgundy wines performance

Meanwhile, the Burgundy 150 index has decreased 16% in the last year. Still, the overall long-term index trajectory remains upwards, as the chart below shows.

Burgundy index

Searching for value

The current market dynamics offer investors a unique window to enrich their collections with both new gems and proven performers across older physically available vintages.

When it comes to the latest, the Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign presents a complex tapestry of quality, quantity, and pricing amidst challenging market conditions. Despite initial price pressures, the adjustments made by producers and the positive critical reception underscore the potential of the new releases. Neal Martin’s endorsement further elevates the vintage, suggesting that for the discerning buyer, Burgundy 2022 provides not just immediate drinking pleasure but also long-term investment opportunities.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.