Month: May 2024

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Bordeaux En Primeur 2023: under pressure

Château Beychevelle Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
  • Bordeaux 2023 largely met trade expectations for reduced pricing but only some releases have stood out as offering fantastic value. 
  • Price cuts slowed towards the end of the campaign, from 27.4% average discount in week one, to 23.3% in week four.  
  • Bordeaux’s ability to adapt does not only matter for its short-term sales but also for its long-term relevance in a highly competitive market.

Over the last month, our news coverage centered around the ongoing Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, examining critic scores and the investment potential of the new releases. 

Prior to the start of the campaign, Bordeaux châteaux faced considerable pressure from the trade to reduce release prices. Price cuts of around 30% were expected. In some cases, these expectations were met, with reductions of up to 40%. 

Now that the campaign is coming to a close, we weigh its success, considering the current state of Bordeaux’s investment market. 

En Primeur 2023 – back in vogue?

Critics of En Primeur contend that the system no longer meets buyer expectations, and the 2023 vintage wanted to rise to the challenge of defying the norm.

Partially it did. Wines like Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Petit Mouton, Beychevelle, Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion delivered value and were met with high demand. 

Liv-ex reported immediate trades on its exchange for some of the releases. A developing secondary market is a positive sign for investors, although both Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild 2023 changed hands below their opening levels. 

According to Liv-ex, ‘it is clear there continues to be a market for Bordeaux En Primeur at the right price. What that price is, is perhaps less clear and will not always be agreed upon’.

The En Primeur golden rule  

For investors, an En Primeur release needs to be the most affordable wine among vintages with comparable scores to make sense. Where that isn’t the case, one should be cautious when buying. 

‘Our golden rule is the En Primeur price is the cheapest you can get. You can’t get anything cheaper. Generally speaking, it’s reasonably successful, not to say 100% successful, and then the price goes up.’ – Philippe Blanc, Château Beychevelle

‘En Primeur should be forever the lowest price you can find in your bottle. If you purchase later, it’s going to be more difficult to find and it’s going to be more expensive.’ – Pierre-Olivier Clouet, Château Cheval Blanc

The price decrease trajectory

The average price reduction among the top wines released in the first week of the campaign was 27.4%, going as low as 40% discount on the previous year.

In the fourth week of the campaign, this trajectory of offers slowed down. The average discount was reduced to 23.2%, the most significant being Château La Fleur-Pétrus 2023, down 33.6%, and the least significant, Beychevelle (-11.1%).

However, even though Beychevelle has seen one of the smallest discounts, it has still been one of the best value releases this campaign.

Beychevelle En Primeur 2023 Prices

The Bordeaux market slowdown

The pressure to reduce release pricing was largely owing to the current market environment. 

Over the past two years, Bordeaux prices are down 12%. Over the past five years, Bordeaux is one of the slowest growing markets, up 2.1%, considerably lagging behind Burgundy (25.2%), Italy (31.2%) and Champagne (45.5%). 

The market for top Bordeaux has suffered the most. First Growth prices are down 17.3% in the last two years, and 3.7% in the last five years.

Bordeaux En Primeur 2023 Prices

The region is also losing market share to its contenders. In 2023, Bordeaux accounted for 40% of the trade by value on Liv-ex compared to 60% in 2018.

This is further exacerbated by slowing demand. Liv-ex noted that today ‘there is more than three times as much Bordeaux for sale than the fine wine market is looking to absorb’.

The need to adapt

The 2023 En Primeur campaign has unfolded under the shadow of mounting pressure for Bordeaux to realign with market demands. The campaign highlighted the critical balance Bordeaux must maintain: offering wines at attractive prices for everyone in the chain. 

Successful examples from this year’s campaign, where price cuts coincided with high demand, underscore the potential for Bordeaux to adapt. However, the slower reduction rates towards the campaign’s end and varied responses from buyers reflect the ongoing debate about the optimal pricing strategy.

Ultimately, as Bordeaux grapples with these challenges, the 2023 En Primeur has underscored the importance of responsiveness to market dynamics. The region’s ability to adjust will not only determine its short-term sales but also its long-term relevance in a highly competitive and ever-evolving global wine market.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today. 

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WineCap’s Head of Content named in Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30

Harper's Wine and Spirit 30 under 30 2024

Harpers Wine & Spirit‘s prestigious 30 under 30 list has been unveiled, showcasing the top talents in the UK wine trade. We are delighted to announce that our Head of Content, Desislava Lyapova, has been included in the rankings. 

The publication received over 100 nominations, ‘with each prospective star deserving recognition’ for their leadership, commitment, communication, innovation, and sustainability initiatives. Jo Gilbert of Harpers noted the industry’s challenges, highlighting the importance of the passion and talent that the nominees bring to their roles.

The judging panel is comprised of esteemed industry figures such as Katy Keating (Flint Wines), Kim Wilson (North South Wines), Michael Saunders (Coterie Holdings), Miles Beale (WSTA), Rachel Webster (WSET), Regine Lee MW (Indigo Wine), and Jo Gilbert (Harpers Wine & Spirit). To make the shortlist, the judges convened over two days in separate groups, with scores averaged out. 

Desislava Lyapova stood out as the only wine investment specialist on this year’s list. During her tenure at WineCap, Lyapova has significantly boosted subscriber numbers through her PR efforts and comprehensive research reports, including those focusing on wealth management in the UK and US.

Desislava Lyapova Harper's Wine and Spirit 30 under 30

On the announcement, Alexander Westgarth, CEO of WineCap, congratulated Lyapova on her achievement:

‘I want to give a huge congratulations to all the winners of the Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30, especially our very own Desislava Lyapova. 

Desi has made a transformational impact at WineCap over the past two years. I can’t imagine anyone else who could have helped us achieve what she has. We are extremely proud to have Desi as a key member of our team.’

Before joining WineCap, Lyapova honed her skills as a Senior Writer at Liv-ex, the global marketplace for the wine trade. At WineCap, she has been pivotal in shaping the editorial direction, producing our Quarterly and Regional reports, leading En Primeur campaigns, and managing freelance and in-house teams, all the while enriching the content of the Academy and News sections.

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Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: an overview of the current campaign

Cos d'estournel bordeaux wines
  • Three weeks into the Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, we examine the pricing trends of the releases so far.
  • In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.
  • The Bordeaux 2023 vintage is characterised by diverse critic scores and some high achievers.

This year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign kicked off early and rapidly gained momentum. The first 2023 releases landed in the last week of April, shortly after trade professionals had returned from the region and before the publication of most critic reports.

Pricing, as always, remained a central issue. Questions arose about whether châteaux would consider the current market conditions, whether anticipated price reductions would drive interest, and ultimately, whether the Bordeaux 2023 vintage would prove a worthy investment.

Three weeks into the campaign, several major châteaux, including First Growths like Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, and Lafite Rothschild, have already launched their 2023 wines.

With most critic assessments now available and pricing trends becoming clearer, we delve into the details of the campaign so far.

Noteworthy releases

Château Léoville-Las Cases’ 2023 release marked a promising start to this year’s En Primeur. On April 30th, the wine was offered at a 40% discount on the previous year’s release. However, some older vintages still presented better value.

The first ‘great value’ release came from Château Lafite Rothschild in the same week. Its second wine, Carruades de Lafite, represented the lowest priced offering from the estate on the market today, playing on En Primeur’s original premise.

Similarly, Mouton Rothschild and Petit Mouton presented attractive opportunities for investors, released at 34.6% and 25.1% discounts on last year’s offerings respectively.

As a result, Liv-ex reported that both Château Lafite Rothschild 2023 and Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 have made their way onto the secondary market – although they have traded below their original release prices.

In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.

The average price cuts so far have been 21.5% compared to last year, with reductions ranging from 40% to none. Despite these cuts, many older vintages remain more affordable and often boast similar or better ratings, including those from 2019, 2017, and 2014.

Diverse scores and high achievers

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage has received a wide array of scores from leading critics, demonstrating a spectrum of quality across various appellations and estates.

Château Margaux consistently received high acclaim, with scores of 97-100 from both Antonio Galloni and William Kelley, and 99-100 from James Suckling. Neal Martin rated it as his second- highest wine of the vintage.

Another high achiever, Le Pin, received top marks with a perfect 100 from Peter Moser of Falstaff and 99-100 from Suckling. Château Montrose is also noteworthy, with a barrel range of 97-100 from Kelley and 99-100 from Suckling.

The critical consensus indicates a preference for wines from the Left Bank, which are noted to have fared better overall. The vintage is characterised by wines that lean towards a classic style, marked by their freshness and moderate alcohol content.

Despite the mixed nature of the vintage, there are several standout wines that show considerable promise. These wines are not only great for adding to a collection due to their potential to appreciate in value, but they also offer the kind of quality that makes them worth seeking out for those looking to enjoy fine wines in the years to come.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Jeb Dunnuck on Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Chateau Montrose 2023
  • According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’.
  • He described most wines as ‘ripe yet not massive with more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.
  • Château Montrose received his highest barrel range of 97-100 points.

According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’. In his latest report, the critic delves into the growing season that shaped the vintage, comparisons with previous years, the En Primeur tastings and the current market for buying the new releases. Below we summarise his key findings. 

A heterogeneous vintage

An erratic growing season led to a divergence of styles between sub-regions and even neighbouring châteaux. Bordeaux 2023 witnessed ‘an incredibly successful flowering, huge mildew pressure in the spring, a slightly uninspiring summer that lacked sunlight, sporadic and very localised storms, and a heatwave at the end of August and September that sped up ripening and, according to many, saved the vintage’.

In terms of vintage comparisons, ‘some of the wines have a certain 2019-like sunny, easygoing style, while others can have a cooler, more structured, almost austere profile similar to 2020’. The common themes, according to the critic, are the ‘fully ripe aromatics and more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.

A Left Bank vintage?

Jeb Dunnuck pointed out that ‘at a high level, the Merlot is much riper and more opulent, and the Cabernets are slightly fresher and vibrant’. He suggested that the Left Bank had the upper hand in 2023, saying that ‘while there are unquestionably impressive wines from the Right Bank, the top Médoc and Graves seem to have another level of harmony and overall balance’.

In terms of overall quality and style, Dunnuck argued that Bordeaux 2023 ‘surpasses 2014, 2017, and 2021 yet is a solid step back from the incredible trio of 2018 through 2020, and most likely will be surpassed by 2022 as well’.

Jeb Dunnuck’s favourite Bordeaux 2023 wines

Dunnuck found potential for perfection in three wines, awarding a barrel range of up to 100 points. Château Montrose got his highest score (97-100), and he noted that ‘it has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage’.

Among the First Growths, only Château Margaux came close to perfection, with the critic saying that ‘it is clearly one of the greats in the vintage, and it actually reminds me a touch of the 1996, if not better’.

Regarding the 2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Dunnuck remarked that ‘the overall balance paired with opulence here is something to behold, and it’s incredible to find this level of quality in the vintage’.

Jeb Dunnuck Bordeaux 2023

Should you buy Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur?

Dunnuck outlines four main reasons why you should buy a vintage En Primeur: ‘1) If it is a great vintage; 2) If the wines are expected to increase in price; 3) If quantities are limited; and 4) If you are buying wines in formats other than 750-milliliter bottles’.

He defined 2023 as a ‘a borderline case’. While ‘it’s not a truly great vintage […] there are a handful of gems in the vintage that will rival the best from 2016, 2018, 2019, and 2020,’ the critic said.

In terms of pricing, he observed that it seemed to ‘be coming back to 2019 levels’, still he reckoned that ‘the time of substantial early gains from purchasing En Primeur has largely sailed’.

Our En Primeur offers only highlight wines that present great value for money in the context of the market prices for vintages currently available on the market. These are wines that hold significant potential for future price appreciation, and where the scores match the price. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Mouton Rothschild 2023
  • According to Neal Martin (Vinous), Bordeaux 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage riddled with paradoxes.
  • Only one wine achieved his highest score of 98-100 points – L’Eglise Clinet.
  • Martin suggested that ‘deep [price] cuts’ are needed for the campaign to work.

 Now that the En Primeur campaign has kicked off, critics have started releasing their Bordeaux 2023 in-barrel scores. Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of this ‘Dalmatian’ vintage, characterised by ‘spots of astounding quality’ but also ‘all manner of shortcomings’ – even in some of the region’s most famous names.

Bordeaux 2023 vintage overview

‘A season riddled with paradoxes,’ Neal Martin described Bordeaux 2023 as a heterogeneous vintage. According to him, it ‘would sit uncomfortably on a mantelpiece alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022’. However, the critic acknowledged that ‘some châteaux pulled out magical wines from their top hat, surpassing those aforementioned years in one or two cases’.

The keyword that defined 2023 is ‘classicism’, meaning ‘lower alcohol levels in the 13-something range,’ without the opulence of previous vintages.

Martin further noted that ‘the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s’. He continued: ‘The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense’.

Overall, Martin claimed that ‘despite the disparity in quality, it cannot be denied that it is bejewelled with a clutch of spellbinding wines’.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines can be seen in the table below. Only one wine achieved the maximum barrel range of 98-100 points – the 2023 L’Eglise Clinet. Martin said that ‘it’s very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish’.

Three wines received a barrel range of 97-99 points: Margaux, Lafleur and Le Pin. In his tasting note, Martin called the First Growth a ‘quintessential Château Margaux’ but noted that it ‘will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of’.

Regarding Lafleur, he said it was ‘one of the few profound wines this vintage’. He described Le Pin as ‘so pure and refined, it seems to embrace and gently hug the senses’.

En Primeur and the global market

Despite the virtues of the vintage, the question of whether it will present value is pertinent in the current economic climate. For Martin, the ‘newborn wines blink open their eyes to survey a bleak economic landscape and finger-pointing between various factions as to who’s to blame’. He said that ‘deep cuts, not gestures, are the only thing that will open wallets’.

This week’s first releases have seen discounts of up to 40% on last year. However, back vintages of similar quality that remain available for less continue to challenge the En Primeur tradition.

Stay tuned for our analysis of the best value releases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.