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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

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Bordeaux 2021 in bottle: Vinous’ top-scoring wines

  • Neal Martin said Bordeaux 2021 shouldn’t be dismissed and identified an ‘overachiever’ among the wines in this challenging vintage.
  • According to Antonio Galloni, the quality is higher on the Left Bank than on the Right Bank.
  • A dry white wine and a Sauternes were the critics’ top-scoring wines from the vintage.

Vinous recently published two separate Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle reports by Neal Martin and Antonio Galloni. In this article, we summarise their views on this polarising vintage.

Why Bordeaux 2021 should not be ignored

In his report, titled ‘2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle’, Neal Martin explained why ‘irrationality tastes good’ and why Bordeaux 2021 shouldn’t be ignored. He said that ‘on paper, a cursory glance at the troubled growing season would make any rational person dismiss its wines’. But the critic argued that they would be wrong.

While Martin awarded few wines more than 95 points, he advised readers against ‘thinking that the 2021 vintage is incapable of giving sensory and intellectual pleasure’.

According to him, advanced technology and refined winemaking made a fundamental difference at the top end, and thus 2021 cannot be compared ‘with off-vintages like 1977, 1992 or arguably even 2013’.

Martin singled out Les Carmes Haut-Brion as an ‘overachiever’ that ‘halts you in your tracks’ and noted that ‘there is a cluster of very strong-performing wines on the Left Bank that merit attention and possess the substance to repay cellaring’. He added that ‘the Right Bank matches the Left Bank, particularly the usual names on the Pomerol plateau […] and likewise those in Saint-Émilion on free-draining limestone soils’.

Similarly, Galloni found ‘a wide range of compelling wines that merit attention’ within the context of a challenging growing season.

‘In many ways, 2021 can be summarized as a year in which classic Bordeaux weather of the past meets the technical know-how of today in both the vineyard and winery,’ the critic argued.

Overall, he said, ‘the quality is higher and more consistent on the Left Bank over the Right Bank, even though at the very top, the best Right Bank wines can only be described as stellar’.

Galloni called Calon Ségur, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Lafite Rothschild, Pichon-Comtesse and Rauzan-Ségla ‘magnificent’, Les Carmes Haut-Brion – ‘majestic’, Vieux Château Certan, Cheval Blanc, Canon, and Lafleur – ‘compelling’. He also made a special mention of the dry white wines, namely Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Haut-Brion Blanc and Domaine de Chevalier Blanc.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2021 wines

Neal Martin Bordeaux 2021 scores

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2021 was a dry white wine, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, while Galloni gave a near-perfect score to a wine from Sauternes – Suduiraut.

Wines that appeared in both critics’ top ten included Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Vieux Château Certan, Lafleur, and Cheval Blanc.

For Galloni, Vieux Château Certan ‘may very well be the wine of the vintage from the Right Bank’, while Martin commented that it ‘transcends the limitations of the growing season’, calling it ‘outstanding’.

Another wine that critics agreed on was Lafleur, which Galloni described as ‘incredibly fascinating’ in 2021, and Neal Martin noted as a ‘strong contender for the wine of the vintage’.

Antonio Galloni Bordeaux 2021 scores

Full report and tasting notes are available on Vinous.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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‘Dragon’ wines for Chinese New Year

  • The Chinese zodiac has historically impacted fine wine demand in Asia.
  • 2024 is the year of the Wood Dragon, with previous vintages under the same sign being 2012, 2000, 1988 and 1976.
  • We examine the best wines from these ‘Dragon’ years and other associated labels.

As the Lunar New Year draws near, that of the Wood Dragon, the fine wine market is feeling the influence of the Chinese zodiac. Historically, the zodiac has had an impact on buying, particularly in Asia, with increased demand for wines from previous vintages carrying the same zodiac sign or those symbolically linked to it. Which will be the trending ‘Dragon’ wines this year?

Past ‘Dragon’ vintages

The last four ‘Dragon’ vintages were 2012, 2000, 1988 and 1976.

2012

In terms of growing season, the most recent 2012 ‘Dragon’ year was challenging in many fine wine producing regions, including Bordeaux and Burgundy, which led to mixed quality. However, it is widely considered as one of the greatest Champagne vintages this century, with Tuscany and the Rhône also excelling in some areas. Famous 100-point (Wine Advocate) wines include M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite from the Rhône (rated by Jeb Dunnuck), L’Eglise-Clinet from Bordeaux (William Kelley), Pingus (Luis Gutiérrez) from Spain and Screaming Eagle (Robert Parker) from California.

2000

The 2000 vintage was brilliant in Bordeaux with many of the wines now reaching maturity. This classic vintage saw Parker award Pavie, La Mission Haut-Brion and Pétrus 100-point scores, with Lafleur receiving the same perfect score from Neal Martin, and Cheval Blanc from Antonio Galloni. The 2000 was also another legendary year for Champagne, with highly rated wines including Krug Clos du Mesnil, Louis Roederer Cristal and Dom Pérignon P2. In Burgundy, the vintage was largely seen as one for early consumption due to low acidity, but many of the wines are now drinking perfectly. The appellations that shone were Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis.

1988

A great year for the sweet wines of Bordeaux, 1988 Sauternes and Barsac have stood the test of time. Initially considered a Right Bank vintage, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (The Wine Independent) recently wrote that wines ‘from Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, and Pessac-Léognan […] should be drunk soon’. 1988 is another vintage to drink soon in Burgundy that produced classic, long-lived wines with good depth of fruit. The year was much more abundant in Chardonnay than in Pinot Noir, and hence better for reds than for whites.

1976

Going back close to 50 years, the 1976 vintage was a mixed bag for much of the wine world. In France, Champagne and Alsace fared better than Bordeaux and Burgundy, and Germany enjoyed a fantastic year. The most significant event was the Judgement of Paris tasting, which put California on the fine wine map. In terms of 100-point wines, Robert Parker’s 1976 favourites were Penfolds Grange and Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline.

Beychevelle – the most famous ‘Dragon’ wine

When it comes to associations, Château Beychevelle is an apt choice for the ‘Dragon’ year as its Chinese name means ‘dragon boat’. The wine’s label also depicts a ship with the head of a griffin. Its 2012 vintage is ‘one of the stars of St. Julien’, according to Parker, who described it as ‘elegant and powerful, rich and intense, but light on its feet’. He recommended drinking it between 2019 and 2051.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Wine Spectator ‘Wine of the Year’ and critics’ top picks

  • Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2018 ranked at Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year.
  • Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration N.26 took the first spot in James Suckling’s annual rankings.
  • Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2018 was Wine Enthusiast’s top cellar recommendation.

On Friday, Wine Spectator announced its ‘Wine of the Year’ – Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2018.

The publication wrote: ‘In the world of wine, a change of ownership or a stylistic paradigm shift can reap huge benefits, but there are always risks. In the case of Argiano, change has paid off in spades, as new owners arrived with a commitment to a return to a more traditional expression of Brunello. Reflecting more than $10 million in investment in the estate over a decade, the stellar quality of Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2018 earns it Wine of the Year honors from Wine Spectator in 2023.’

The wine has enjoyed increased demand after the announcement and has traded at a 45% premium on its Market Price. This is not a new phenomenon. According to Liv-ex, ‘over the last few years, most of the Wine Spectator’s top wines have enjoyed significant trading activity and an uptick in price’.

For instance, the 2018 Wine Spectator’s wine of the year, Sassicaia 2015, has seen its Market Price double from £1,350 per 12×75 to £2,700 after the announcement. Similarly, the 2019 wine of the year – Château Léoville Barton 2016 – enjoyed an immediate price surge.

This year, other investment-grade wines that ranked in the publication’s top ten list include Château Lynch Bages 2020 (3) and Château Pichon Baron 2020 (8).

James Suckling’s top picks for 2023

James Suckling also released his Top 100 World Wines 2023 and Wine of the Year report, giving Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration N.26 the first spot.

The critic said that ‘it’s not just an incredible bottle of Champagne, it’s the best wine we rated this year out of the almost 39,000 reviewed by myself and my team of seven tasters/editors’. This is the ‘the largest number of wines [they] have ever reviewed in a year, beating last year’s record of about 32,000’.

Suckling’s top ten also included the 100-point Seña 2021 (3) and Château Figeac 2020 (4).

Wine Enthusiast’s top cellar selections

Another Brunello di Montalcino stole the spotlight in Wine Enthusiast’s annual rankings. Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2018 was their top cellar recommendation for 2023.

Their report stated: ‘This list represents what’s next in Wine Enthusiast’s Cellar Selections—wines with consistency and structure that aren’t necessarily the biggest and boldest. The number one wine, for example, is Poggio di Sotto’s 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, not the most legendary in its region of Italy but what a wine!’

Their number two wine was Ribera del Duero Vega Sicilia Unico 2012, which they described as ‘a proven collectible’ and a ‘gem’ which ‘represents Spain as an underappreciated wine country full of discoveries’.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.