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Bordeaux En Primeur 2024: critic scores and best releases

  • There have been some notable releases in a quieter En Primeur campaign. 
  • All of the top releases have represented the best entry point into their respective brands in the last decade. 
  • Critics have emphasised selectivity in a challenging vintage.

One month in since the start of the Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur campaign, which seems to be nearing its end, we look at critic scores and price trends to evaluate the best releases.

What the critics are saying

After the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley called Bordeaux 2024 ‘the weakest vintage of the last decade’, other critics have echoed his concerns with greater nuance. 

For Jane Anson, ‘the vintage was better than expected […] and clearly better than, for example, 2013 – and 2021 in the best cases.’

Meanwhile, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) observed: ‘The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.’ His ‘magnificent eight’ were Beychevelle, Clos Puy Arnaud, Cos d’Estournel, Jean Faure, Larcis Ducasse, Lascombes, La Conseillante and Rauzan-Ségla.

Neal Martin concluded his report, arguing that 2024 is ‘the ideal vintage for a reset’. He noted that ‘given the obstacles placed along the growing season, any 2024 that scores above 90 points is a success’. Martin’s highest barrel range was 96-98 points for La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Among the reds, his top wines with 95-97 points were Lafite Rothschild, Trotanoy, Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan.

The state of the market

As Bordeaux continues to lose market share to other regions, and fine wine prices overall are in a correction phase, releasing En Primeur has only worked with heavy discounts. We spoke with leading producers on how they determine their release prices, with strategies ranging from consulting négociants  and importers, and weighing in volumes and vintage quality. 

In his report, Martin speaks of the following reality: ‘There is no saviour riding over the horizon, no emerging country of insatiable Bordeaux-lovers, all against a backdrop of a vine-pull scheme […] and the fact that Bordeaux is wrestling with an image crisis.’ 

The solution? He goes back to the beginning of his career, when ‘off-vintages in the mould of 2024 would be discounted, and […] nobody lost face, including the grandest châteaux, and crucially, it kept the primeur system flowing, bottles passing through the distribution chain to the all-important final consumer’.

Within this context, we look at the releases that have worked so far – where pricing has aligned with trade and consumer expectations, and has offered a window for long-term profitability. 

Best En Primeur releases to date

One of the standout releases of the campaign has been First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild.

The 2024 vintage emerged as the most attractively priced Lafite in recent memory. In fact, only one other vintage from the past 40 years comes within 25% of its release price. Even lower-rated vintages like 2013 and 2007 – both released before the transformative investments that elevated Lafite’s quality – now trade at considerably higher levels.

Much like Lafite, the 2024 Mouton Rothschild represents a rare opportunity. It is the best-priced Mouton vintage currently available on the market. Adjusted for inflation, only one other vintage in the last two decades compares in affordability. 

Moreover, Mouton has been the best-performing First Growth over the last five years, while also being Wine-Searcher’s most searched-for wine globally. 

History shows that these ‘less celebrated’ vintages often outperform their more hyped counterparts. For both Lafite and Mouton, vintages such as 2007, 2008, 2013, and 2014 have significantly outpaced the more acclaimed 2009, 2010, or 2016 in price performance.

Another notable performer is Calon Ségur. While it may have flown slightly under the radar, its 2024 release represents the best entry point into the brand in over a decade. Calon has built a strong reputation among critics, frequently earning 95+ scores from Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Its investment credentials are equally impressive: between 2015 and 2023, Calon prices surged more than 80%. Even with recent market dips, our Calon Ségur index remains 75% higher than it was ten years ago – making it one of Bordeaux’s most dynamic performers.

Looking for more? Read our Bordeaux Regional Report.

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Bordeaux correction: top wines 20% below their peak

Left Bank Bordeaux vineyards
  • Top Bordeaux labels are now approximately 20% below their peaks achieved during the last decade.
  • Lafite Rothschild has been the hardest hit, driven lower by classic vintages such as 2018, 2009 and 2000. 
  • The recent fall in prices has brought many labels back to levels not seen in years.

As recently explored, the fine wine market has been on a downward trend, but what does this mean for individual labels? Today, we turn to Bordeaux’s top names, examining the recent performance of some of the most investable wines in the world.

Bordeaux after the peak

Top Bordeaux labels are now approximately 20% below their peaks, achieved during the last decade. 

Bordeaux wine indices

The First Growths, which often serve as the barometers of the fine wine market, had been riding high, with September 2022 marking a peak in pricing for Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild and Margaux. 

However, since then, the landscape has changed dramatically. Lafite Rothschild, once the shining star, has fallen by 28.6%, the most severe decline among the top names. Margaux and Mouton Rothschild have also taken significant hits, falling by 17.1% and 17.5%, respectively.

On the Right Bank, the situation is no different. Petrus, which peaked in December 2022, has since dropped by 21.4%, while Le Pin, which reached its high in February 2023, has declined by 20.3%. These losses have brought prices to levels last seen several years ago.

First Growths peaked in September 2022, since then:

  • Lafite is down 28.6% 
  • Mouton is down 17.5% 
  • Margaux is down 17.1% 

On the Right Bank:

  • Petrus is down 21.4% since its December 2022 peak
  • Le Pin is down 20.3% since its February 2023 peak

The Lafite fall: a deep dive

Lafite Rothschild – the second most-searched-for wine on Wine-Searcher – has seen the steepest decline since its peak, with prices plummeting 28.6% on average.

Which vintages have contributed to its fall over the last two years? The 2018 (WA 100 points) has been the hardest hit, down 35.9%. The wine was originally released at levels akin to the brand’s bull years, due to high critic scores, but failed to offer the best investment value. The recent price adjustment has made it a more attractive proposition. 

Older vintages that have had more time to grow have similarly fallen in value by over 30%. The classic 2009 Lafite, which boasts 99+ points from Robert Parker himself, is down 31.1% over the last two years. 

The millenial vintage, with a drinking window that extends well into the 2050s, is currently 32.6% below its peak. 

Lafite Rothschild wine vintages performance

Buying levels: back to the square one

The recent fall in prices has brought many labels back to levels not seen in years. Lafite, for example, has returned to its 2016 pricing levels, while Margaux and Mouton are back to 2020. On the Right Bank, Petrus and Le Pin have both returned to their 2021 levels.

While this might raise concerns on the surface, it presents a compelling opportunity. The scale of the correction suggests that Bordeaux wines, while still highly valued, may have been oversold in the last 18 months. 

For those looking to enter or expand their portfolios, this could represent a chance to acquire top-tier wines at a significant discount before prices start to rise again.

As with previous corrections, price declines are often followed by periods of recovery. For wealth managers and clients with a long-term investment horizon, the current situation may be seen as a momentary blip in an otherwise upward trajectory.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The best of Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

Chateau Margaux Cellar
  • The best Bordeaux En Primeur releases offered a combination of quality and value. 
  • These are wines with high potential for future price appreciation.
  • Some châteaux have followed the En Primeur golden rule that the new release is the cheapest you can get. 

As this year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign draws to an end, we evaluate the best 2023 releases. These wines not only boast high quality, as measured by critic scores, but also offer value when compared to previous vintages. Below are our highlights from an investment perspective. 

Beychevelle 

Chateau Beychevelle En Primeur 2023

In the words of Château Beychevelle’s Philippe Blanc, ‘our golden rule is the En Primeur price is the cheapest you can get’. 

The rule was observed this year, with the 2023 representing the best priced vintage on the market today. 

The wine received 94-96 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous), who said: ‘Beychevelle remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Bordeaux. It is especially classy in this edition.’ 

Meanwhile, the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley (93-94 points) noted that ‘the 2023 Beychevelle has turned out especially well this year, exhibiting a more integrated, seductive style than recent vintages’.

Lafite Rothschild & Carruades de Lafite

Lafite Rothschild Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

For William Kelley, Lafite Rothschild appeared to be ‘the finest of the first growths this year’. The critic awarded it 97-99 points. The wine was launched at an impressive 32% discount on last year, making the new release the most affordable on the market today. Shortly after release, the wine found its way into the secondary market.

Carruades Lafite Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Its second wine also presented an enticing prospect to investors. As well as being the cheapest vintage, the wine was awarded a score of 91-93 from Neal Martin (Vinous), surpassing the 2022, 2016, and 2010. The critic remarked that this is ‘surely one of the best Carruades I have tasted at this stage’.

Mouton Rothschild & Petit Mouton

Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

In much the same vein as Lafite Rothschild, the 2023 Mouton Rothschild is the most affordable vintage available on the market today. Antonio Galloni gave it 96-99 points and declared that it ‘is shaping up to be one of the best wines of the vintage on the Left Bank’.

With 96-98 points from Neal Martin, its score looks set to match the 2022, 2020, 2019, and 2018. Only the 100-point 2016 has the upper hand but comes at a hefty 40% premium. 

Petit Mouton Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Once again, there is outstanding value to be found in the second wine. Petit Mouton 2023 is the best priced vintage available today by a healthy margin. And, according to Galloni, ‘it could easy be a Grand Vin at another address’.

Margaux

Chateau Margaux Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

The highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across major critics, Margaux presented great value.

Galloni awarded it a potentially perfect score of 97-100 points, calling it ‘fabulous, sensual, silky and exceptionally polished’. 

Meanwhile, Martin described it as a ‘quintessential Margaux’, awarding it a score of 97-99 points.

Cheval Blanc

Chateau Cheval Blanc Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

There are few wines that transcend the vintage in 2023, and Cheval Blanc is certainly one of them. 

There were few wines capable of transcending the vintage in 2023, but Cheval Blanc was certainly one of them.

It is the second-highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across 12 leading critics. Winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet even goes so far as to say that it is superior to the 2022, as does the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley. 

Adding to its appeal is the value it offers. The 2023 is the most affordable option among top vintages. This is one of only two unambiguously ‘prime’ Cheval Blanc vintages available under £5,000 a case.

As these highlights show, there is value to be found during En Primeur with the right analysis tools. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

Lafite Rothschild
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  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week examining the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we now turn to an important but often overlooked category within Bordeaux wines: second wines. These wines offer investors a compelling balance between brand prestige and affordability, making them increasingly relevant in today’s fine wine market.

This analysis explores what second wines are, how they compare to their Grand Vins, how they are priced, and why their long-term performance makes them attractive within a wine investment portfolio.

What are second wines?

Most leading Bordeaux châteaux – particularly those classified under the 1855 Classification – produce more than one wine per vintage. Alongside the Grand Vin, many estates bottle a second wine (sometimes referred to as a “2nd wine” or “wine or second label”), and a handful may even produce third or fourth wines depending on vineyard size and stylistic goals.

Second wines generally come from:

  • younger vines, which may not yet deliver the depth required for the Grand Vin

  • vineyard parcels that do not fully meet Grand Vin quality in a given year

  • fruit that is stylistically better suited to an earlier-drinking profile

Despite this, second wines often receive the same technical treatment – from vineyard work to vinification – as the flagship label. They may use fruit from the same renowned terroirs, the same cellars, and benefit from the expertise of the same winemaking team.

For investors, this means second wines offer brand access at a significantly lower price, while still carrying the hallmarks of top Bordeaux estates.

Second wines: Pricing and Value Dynamics

Price Comparison: First Growths vs. Second Wines

The average First Growth case price sits around £5,300, reflecting their iconic status within Bordeaux’s hierarchy. In contrast, the average price for a second wine is £1,941 – less than half the price, yet still benefiting from strong brand associations.

This pricing gap offers investors a more approachable entry point to the top tier of growth wines, particularly within Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Pessac-Léognan, where some of the world’s most admired estates are located.

Where prices diverge

Interestingly, the price hierarchy of the Grand Vin does not always replicate itself in the second-wine market.

Second wines prices and scores

For example:

  • Château Latour produces one of the most expensive Grand Vins after Lafite Rothschild.

  • Yet its second wine, Les Forts de Latour, sits mid-range in pricing compared with its peers.

  • Meanwhile, Le Petit Mouton (from Mouton Rothschild) and Carruades de Lafite (from Lafite Rothschild) are priced higher, reflecting exceptionally strong brand demand.

 

Similarly, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion – the second wine of Château Haut-Brion, one of the most historically significant estates in the 1855 classification – remains the most affordable of the second wines despite its pedigree.

This shows that market demand, not just classification, shapes pricing for second wines.

Scores and price-per-point

When examining value for money, score-based metrics offer useful perspective.

  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion holds the lowest price-per-point (£16) among second wines, mirroring Haut-Brion’s reputation for over-delivering relative to price.

  • However, while Haut-Brion Grand Vin scores very highly on the Wine Track Index, Le Clarence’s score is comparatively lower.

This disconnect illustrates a key point: For second wines, price does not always correlate closely with critical ratings.

Instead, a different dynamic typically governs their appreciation.

Second wines behave differently from the Grand Vin

With Grand Vins, price is strongly driven by quality, scores, and global demand.

For second wines, however, the dominant relationship is between price and age. As bottles are consumed and availability reduces, the scarcity effect naturally lifts prices.

In this way, second wines often follow the traditional wine investment ageing curve, appreciating steadily regardless of whether they score as highly as their Grand Vin counterparts.

They also present:

  • brand access for collectors who may be unwilling to open a £500+ bottle

  • earlier drinking windows, which attract both consumers and restaurants

  • strong demand on release, especially for estates like Mouton Rothschild, Haut-Brion, and Lafite Rothschild

Second wines therefore fulfil both a consumption and investment role, ultimately supporting more stable long-term price performance.

Performance of the Bordeaux second wines

Over the past decade, second wines from the top estates in Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, and Pessac-Léognan have shown strong appreciation.

Top performers (10-year performance)

  1. Le Petit Mouton (Mouton Rothschild)
    +111.9% – The strongest performer, reflecting exceptional brand equity and global demand.

  2. Le Clarence de Haut-Brion (Château Haut-Brion)
    +76.2% – Undervalued on release, this wine has delivered impressive mid-term returns.

  3. Carruades de Lafite (Lafite Rothschild)
    +64.7% – One of the most globally recognised second wines, with strong demand across Asia.

  4. Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux (Margaux)
    +63.1% – A consistently sought-after second label with stable year-on-year appreciation.

Second wines performance

These figures highlight how second wines from Bordeaux’s most prestigious châteaux can generate meaningful returns, often outperforming mid-tier Grand Vins and offering a lower-risk route into blue-chip Bordeaux.

Why Bordeaux second wines matter for investors

Second wines sit at the intersection of:

  • prestige (access to top-tier châteaux)

  • affordability (compared to Grand Vins)

  • liquidity (strong global recognition)

  • age-driven price increases (steady appreciation over time)

For investors building a Bordeaux wine portfolio, second wines provide:

  • diversification across vintages and price points

  • exposure to world-class estates without First Growth pricing

  • earlier consumption windows (driving market demand)

  • long-term stability and predictable growth

In short, second wines are one of the most efficient ways to gain exposure to the upper tier of Bordeaux wines while balancing cost and performance.

Final thoughts

Second wines from Bordeaux – whether Les Forts de Latour, Le Petit Mouton, Pavillon Rouge, Carruades de Lafite, or Le Clarence de Haut-Brion – offer compelling value for both collectors and investors. While they may not always achieve the prestige of their Grand Vins, their strong brand associations, increased affordability, and favourable ageing dynamics make them attractive assets within a diversified wine investment strategy.

As global demand continues to grow, particularly for leading estates in the Médoc and Graves, second growth Bordeaux wines and second labels are likely to remain a highly relevant segment of the fine wine market.

FAQ: Second Wines

What are second wines in Bordeaux?

Second wines are wines made by top Bordeaux châteaux using fruit from younger vines or parcels not selected for the Grand Vin.

Are second wines considered good for wine investment?

Yes. Many second growth Bordeaux wines and second labels have demonstrated strong long-term performance.

How do second wines differ from the Grand Vin?

While they come from the same vineyards and winemaking teams, second wines are generally earlier-drinking and less complex. The key difference is selection – the Grand Vin uses only the highest-quality fruit.

Why are second wines cheaper than First Growths?

Price differences reflect hierarchy, brand prestige, and selection. First Growths such as Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, and Haut-Brion command premium pricing due to their status in the 1855 Classification. Their second wines, like Carruades de Lafite or Le Petit Mouton, offer similar pedigree at a fraction of the cost.

Do second wines age well?

Yes, though typically not as long as their Grand Vins. They often reach peak condition earlier, making them attractive for both drinkers and investors.

Which second wines show the best historical performance?

Over the past decade, leading performers include:

  • Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild

  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

  • Carruades de Lafite

  • Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux

These wines have delivered returns between 63% and 112%, depending on estate and vintage.

Are second wines a good entry point for Bordeaux investment?

Absolutely. They offer affordability, strong brand recognition, and proven liquidity, making them one of the most efficient ways to gain exposure to top-tier Bordeaux wines.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Which Bordeaux First Growth has the lowest price per point?

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  • The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on their market price and perceived quality.
  • This article examines the prices per point of the most liquid group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • It also looks at their historic market performances.

The price-per-point metric offers a powerful way to compare wines based on their market price relative to critic quality scores. By dividing the average case price by the average critic score, collectors and investors can identify which wines offer the best value, regardless of prestige or brand strength. This approach is especially insightful when analysing the First Growth Bordeaux châteaux, the most liquid and historically significant group within the wines of Bordeaux.

The First Growths – Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Latour – were formalised in the official Classification of 1855, a system that still shapes global perceptions of quality today. These estates sit at the top of the Bordeaux hierarchy, alongside the region’s premier cru properties, commanding some of the highest prices in the fine wine market. Despite belonging to the same classification, their relative value differs substantially when measured through price per point.

First Growth Bordeaux – price per point

An average case price of £4,429 makes Château Haut-Brion the most affordable of the First Growths. Meanwhile, it has the highest average Wine Track score of 95.9 points. While there is divergence in prices and scores on a vintage-specific level, Château Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point among the First Growths overall.

First Growths average prices and scores

At the other end of the spectrum, Château Lafite Rothschild has the highest price per point of £64, owing to the highest average case price of £6,129 and a Wine Track score of 95.8.

Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Mouton Rothschild sit between these two extremes. Each offers exceptional critic scores and historic vintages, though their price-per-point efficiency varies depending on market cycles, En Primeur release prices, and vintage-specific trading volumes. Investors often compare these cru classé wines not only by absolute cost but by consistency of score relative to long-term performance.

What does this mean for the First Growths’ performance?

Historically, all First Growths have followed similar trajectories in terms of market highs and lows.
Key patterns include:

  • A dramatic surge during the China-led bull market (H1 2011)

  • A deep pullback in the years following

  • A recovery after the Brexit referendum, stabilising at higher levels

  • A recent decline in line with broader fine wine indices

The Liv-ex 50, which tracks the First Growths, is down 15.3% over the past year, mirroring the performance of the broader Liv-ex 1000 index.

Among the individual estates:

  • Lafite Rothschild saw the sharpest rise during the 2011 peak

  • It has also seen the largest recent fall (-19%)

  • Haut-Brion, despite never reaching the same peaks, has been more stable – dipping only 10% in the last year

This relative stability reinforces Haut-Brion’s status as a high-value First Growth brand. Its lower price per point and historically steadier performance make it appealing to collectors seeking reduced volatility without sacrificing Bordeaux pedigree.

First Growths performance

First Growth wines that offer value perform the best

In the case of Haut-Brion, value plays an important role in market performance. POP wines (those with a lower price per point) have outperformed the rest over 15 years. These include vintages 2002, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2019 (the only prime vintage among the POP wines).

The second-best-performing index comprises older ‘prime’ vintages – wines with high scores pre-2000. However, this index has shown higher volatility due to the limited availability and trading volumes of these wines.

The index comprising younger ‘on’ vintages like 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2020 has underperformed the rest of the pack. However, these wines have also had less time in the market and their evolution is yet to be seen.

Haut-Brion vintage performance

Historically, Bordeaux prime vintages often show accelerated growth after 10–15 years in bottle, meaning these more recent releases could see substantial performance shifts as they move further from their en primeur release period.

In conclusion, price per point offers an effective way to assess both value and quality, helping buyers look beyond brand prestige to uncover genuine opportunities. However, investors should also consider:

  • long-term market behaviour

  • storage and provenance

  • volatility of older vintages

  • the impact of global economic cycles

When combined with historical performance analysis, price per point becomes a powerful tool for building a balanced fine wine portfolio – identifying stable performers like Haut-Brion, premium prestige wines like Lafite Rothschild, and long-term growth opportunities across the First Growth category.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Price ratio: comparing regional First Growths

  • We compare the price performance of Château Lafite Rothschild to other regions’ respective ‘First Growths’.
  • The rising ratio highlights the increased value to be had in the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • Today, one can get 29 bottles of Lafite for the price of Romanée-Conti and almost five for Pétrus and Screaming Eagle.

How many bottles of Château Lafite Rothschild can one get for the price of other regions’ respective ‘First’ wines?

With changing market dynamics at play that have seen the balance between Bordeaux and other regions change, we examine the price ratio between some of the most popular investment-grade wines.

Below we compare the performance of the Bordeaux First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild to Burgundy’s highest echelon Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the Super Tuscan Sassicaia, the Right Bank Château Pétrus, the Californian cult wine Screaming Eagle, and the most in-demand Champagne, Dom Pérignon. These are all wines that symbolise and even transcend their geography.  In the same way that Lafite has long been the mainstay of Bordeaux, the other wines are bellwethers for their regions.

The ratio between these wines is somewhat reflective of broader trends within their respective regions. Over the last decade, the ratio has risen consistently, highlighting the increased value to be had in the First Growths, as other regions gather momentum.

How many bottles of Lafite for the price of DRC?

Today, one can get on average 29 bottles of Lafite Rothschild for the price of Romanée-Conti. The ratio has risen considerably since 2013 when one could buy just 14 bottles of Lafite for one DRC. It peaked in December 2022, when it stood at 30:1.

As the chart below shows, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti index hit a record high in December last year. Meanwhile, the Lafite index has not seen any of the price volatility witnessed by DRC. Year-to-date, prices for both labels have dipped but the fall has been sharper for DRC.

The DRC:Lafite price ratio is somewhat reflective of broader trends within their regions. In the last decade, Burgundy emerged as Bordeaux’s main contender. After Bordeaux peaked at the end of the China-led bull market in 2011, buyers started to seek out other corners of the fine wine world and it was Burgundy that attracted the greatest attention. The allure of rarity and quality meant that demand quickly outstripped already tight supply. Prices for Burgundy peaked, while Bordeaux ran quietly in the background.

For Bordeaux, the period between 2013 and 2015 saw contraction at the tail end of the Chinese correction. The market turned again in October 2015, and since then, Lafite Rothschild has been the second-best-performing First Growth, with some vintages doubling in value. However, it has not managed to catch up with Burgundy’s stellar rise.

Left vs Right Bank

It is also interesting to compare performance within Bordeaux’s Left and Right Bank. Today 4.6 bottles of Lafite gets you a bottle of Château Pétrus, up from 3, ten years ago.

As the chart below shows, Lafite and Pétrus have followed a similar trajectory up to September 2021, when prices for the First Growth flattened while Pétrus continued its rise.

Similar to Burgundy, rarity plays a key role in Pétrus’ appeal and investment performance. Pétrus is produced in much smaller quantities (around 3,000 cases per year) compared to Lafite (around 25,000 cases). Despite commanding a higher price tag, the wine has considerably outperformed Lafite in the last decade.

Dom Pérignon vs Lafite Rothschild

Recent years have seen a surge in Champagne’s market share and price performance. This has been reflected in the performance of its most traded label – Dom Pérignon.

Produced in much larger quantities than Lafite and more widely available, Dom Pérignon has started to catch up with the First Growth. In the last decade, the ratio between them has doubled – from 0.2 to 0.4.

Champagne prices, with Dom Pérignon at the helm, have made considerable gains since the early 2020s. In the last decade, our Dom Pérignon index is up 120%, compared to 20% for Lafite.

Sassicaia vs Lafite Rothschild

Similarly, the Super Tuscans have been getting more expensive. The most liquid and heavily traded group of Italian wines, their performance has been further boosted by critical acclaim and brand strength, with Sassicaia at the helm.

The ratio between Sassicaia and Lafite has risen from 0.2 ten years ago to 0.42 today.

As the chart below shows, Sassicaia has seen stable and consistent growth. 2019-2022 was a period of upheaval for the brand, which benefited from excellent vintages that captured investors’ interest.

Screaming Eagle vs Lafite Rothschild

The price ratio between Screaming Eagle and Lafite Rothschild tells a story of increased volatility, which can largely be ascribed to the Californian cult wine. Screaming Eagle has seen bigger price rises, followed by sharper falls.

Today one can now get 4.8 bottles of Lafite for the price of Screaming Eagle, up from 2.7 a decade ago. The ratio peaked in February 2022, when it stood at 5:1.

California has enjoyed serious investment interest which has been reflected in its market share. Today the region holds around 7% of the fine wine trade by value and is the most important New World player.

While Lafite has come to represent better value when compared to other top wines, this is largely due to shifting regional market dynamics. The First Growth continues to entice buyers with brand strength, high-quality releases and returns on investment.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The place of the Bordeaux First Growths in a changing fine wine market

  • Once the dominant force in the fine wine market, the Bordeaux First Growths have lost market share due to its broadening.
  • In the last decade, Château Mouton Rothschild has been the best price performer, up 43.2%.
  • Château Haut-Brion offers the best value, with the highest average critic score and the lowest average price per case.

The Bordeaux First Growths in a broadening market

The Bordeaux First Growths have long been the cornerstone of the fine wine investment market. Back in 2010, they made up close to 90% of all Bordeaux trade by value – at a time, when Bordeaux’s share of the total market stood at 96%.

With the broadening of the market, their share has decreased and they now regularly account for around 30% of all Bordeaux secondary market trade (which itself has fallen below 35% annual average).

This trend was also reflected in the 2022 Power 100 list, which offered a snapshot of the ever-changing landscape of the secondary market. For the first time ever, no Bordeaux wines featured among the top ten most powerful fine wine labels.

Even if trade for these brands remains consistent or increases, the First Growths are facing greater competition. Still, they are among the wines with the greatest liquidity, attracting regular demand and high praise from critics year after year.

First Growths’ price performance

In terms of price performance, the five First Growths have followed a similar trajectory (i.e. rising post-Covid and dipping in the last year in line with the current market reality). The relative outcast has been Château Latour, whose performance was impacted by the decision to leave the En Primeur system in 2012. The wine has been the worst-performing First Growth, up just 17.9% in the last decade.

The best performer has been Château Mouton Rothschild, with an increase of 43.2%. Recent releases have elevated the performance of the brand, like the 2020 vintage, which boasts 100-points from The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley, 99-100 from James Suckling, 98-100 from Jeff Leve and 99 from Antonio Galloni (Vinous). ‘Off’ vintages like 2011, 2013 and 2014, which have greater room to rise, have also fared well over the last five years.

The second-best performer has been Château Margaux, which is also the second most affordable First Growth. Similarly, its biggest price risers have been 2014, 2011 and 2013. Less classical years reveal the strength of these brands, as demand for the First Growths remains consistently high regardless of the vintage.

First Growths’ price and score comparison

The table below shows the average price per case and critic score of the First Growths for vintages since 2000.

Château Haut-Brion tops the list with the highest average score (95.9) and the lowest average price per case (£4,595). With a price per point of £48, the wine seems to offer the best value among the First Growths. Vintages that have received 100-points from The Wine Advocate include 2018 (LPB), 2016 (LPB), 2015 (LPB), 2009 (LPB) and 2005 (RP).

Looking at the average prices, Château Lafite Rothschild stands out as the most expensive of the First Growths. The wine has achieved 100-points from The Wine Advocate for its 2019 (WK), 2018 (LPB), 2010 (LPB) and 2003 (RP) vintages.

In conclusion, the First Growths remain an important part of the changing secondary market, offering brand strength, consistently high quality and stable growth.

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The legacy of the 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification and global rankings

  • The 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification continues to serve as a touchstone that has shaped not only Bordeaux but also global perceptions of what constitutes a ‘fine wine’.
  • Wine-producing regions worldwide have developed their own unique classification frameworks, based on quality, price, and terroir.
  • Wine classifications serve as guides to quality standards, geographical origins, and historical context.

Wine classifications play a vital role in the wine industry. They provide a roadmap to understanding quality, origin, and prestige, offering guidance to consumers, collectors, and investors navigating an increasingly complex global landscape. Among all classification systems, none has shaped the perception of “fine wine” more enduringly than the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Commissioned under Napoleon III, this historic ranking has influenced not only the wines of Bordeaux but also the way quality is defined in wine regions around the world.

While many wine-producing countries have since developed their own approaches, the 1855 hierarchy remains a benchmark – a symbol of excellence that continues to carry weight in the market nearly 170 years later. As the global wine industry has evolved, these classification systems have continued to adapt, offering insight into tradition, terroir, and changing consumer tastes.

The enduring legacy of the 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification

The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was commissioned by Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, a world fair showcasing France’s greatest achievements. The task was assigned to the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, which relied on brokers to organise a ranking of the region’s top wines based on their historical reputation and trading prices – effectively the earliest form of market data-driven classification.

Focusing on the prominent estates of the Left Bank, particularly the Médoc (with the exception of Château Haut-Brion in Graves), the system divided châteaux into five tiers:

  • Premier Cru (First Growth)

  • Deuxième Cru (Second Growth)

  • Troisième Cru (Third Growth)

  • Quatrième Cru (Fourth Growth)

  • Cinquième Cru (Fifth Growth)

The classification also included the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, acknowledging their exceptional global reputation. The top honour in this category went to Château d’Yquem, which was placed alone in the rank of “Premier Cru Supérieur”.

Remarkably, the classification has remained largely unchanged. Its most significant revision occurred in 1973, when Château Mouton Rothschild was elevated from Second Growth to First Growth – a shift famously summed up by Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s quote: “First I am, second I was, Mouton does not change.”

Although revered, the system has also attracted criticism. Critics argue that basing the classification on 19th-century trading prices does not reflect modern winemaking improvements, changes in terroir management, or evolving stylistic preferences. The global wine exchange, Liv-ex, has created a similar classification that uses price alone to determine a hierarchy of the leading fine wine labels in the market.

The economic weight of the 1855 Classification

Today, the five First Growths – Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild º remain among the most recognised wines in the world. Their placement in the classification directly correlates with their position in the market:

  • They dominate indices such as the Liv-ex 50

  • They command significant global demand, particularly in Asia and the US

  • Their brand prestige drives price stability during global economic shifts

  • Their wines are among the most frequently traded worldwide

The classification also influences land values in Bordeaux. Vineyards designated as crus classés hold significantly higher economic value compared with non-classified properties, shaping investment, production decisions, and estate strategy in the Médoc and beyond.

The Saint-Émilion Classification

Bordeaux’s Right Bank offers a completely different approach through the Saint-Émilion Classification, first introduced in 1955. Unlike the 1855 system, Saint-Émilion’s rankings are revised approximately every ten years, giving producers the opportunity to move up or down the hierarchy. Its tiers include:

  • Premier Grand Cru Classé A

  • Premier Grand Cru Classé B

  • Grand Cru Classé

The dynamism of this model fosters competition, encouraging châteaux to innovate, invest in vineyards, and elevate their winemaking standards.

However, the classification has experienced its share of controversy. The most notable recent development was the withdrawal of three top estates – Châteaux Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Angélus – from the classification amid disputes over evaluation criteria. This highlighted the tensions between heritage, modern wine styles, and market realities.

Despite these challenges, the Saint-Émilion system offers a compelling alternative to Bordeaux’s more rigid 1855 structure, showcasing a model that evolves with the industry.

Classifications beyond Bordeaux 

Burgundy’s Cru System: Terroir above all

Burgundy’s classification differs dramatically from Bordeaux’s estate-based approach. Rather than ranking producers, Burgundy organises quality according to vineyard sites, rooted in centuries of understanding terroir:

  • Grand Cru – the most exceptional sites

  • Premier Cru – vineyards offering high-quality and distinctive character

  • Village – wines from specific villages with recognised identity

  • Regional – broader appellations such as Bourgogne AOC

Because vineyard parcels are frequently divided among multiple growers, two bottles from the same vineyard may vary widely depending on the winemaker. This creates a classification system that highlights terroir purity but also introduces complexity for consumers.

Burgundy’s terroir-centric model has deeply influenced New World regions such as Oregon, New Zealand, and Australia, where producers often refer to vineyard “blocks” or “crus” to differentiate their best sites.

Germany’s VDP Classification

Germany’s Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) has developed a quality system inspired partly by Burgundy’s model. Its highest tiers include:

  • Grosse Lage (Great Growth)

  • Erste Lage (First Growth)

These designations highlight vineyards capable of producing world-class Riesling and other varieties. Additional layers address sweetness levels and stylistic diversity within German wine culture.

Italy’s Barolo and Barbaresco Crus

Italy’s famed Barolo and Barbaresco regions utilise an unofficial but widely recognised cru system that distinguishes vineyard sites based on terroir. While not supported by a formal hierarchy, these vineyard names – such as Cannubi, Brunate, and Rabajà – are understood to convey prestige and quality.

In 2010, Barolo introduced the Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (MGA), formalising many of these vineyard distinctions and bringing greater clarity to the region’s terroir identity.

Portugal’s Douro Classification

The Douro region, home of Port wine, boasts one of the world’s earliest classification systems, dating back to 1756 – nearly a century before Bordeaux’s. This system evaluated vineyard sites by potential quality, considering factors such as altitude, soil richness, and slope steepness.

Its long history makes the Douro system a precursor to modern terroir-based classifications that exist across Europe today.

Concluding thoughts

The 1855 Bordeaux Classification stands as one of the most influential frameworks in the history of fine wine. Its impact extends far beyond the Médoc, informing global perceptions of quality and influencing the classification systems that followed. Meanwhile, more dynamic models such as the Saint-Émilion rankings and Burgundy’s Cru system highlight that flexibility and terroir expression also have an important place in the wine world.

From Europe to the New World, classification systems continue to shape how we understand, value, and enjoy wine – serving as both historical artefacts and modern benchmarks in an ever-changing industry.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.