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Piedmont on the move: rising stars under £1,000 a case

  • Italy is the best-performing fine wine region year-to-date. 
  • Some Italian brands have recorded positive movement as high as 15% in the last six months.
  • Piedmont’s edge in the fine wine market can be attributed to historical significance, limited production, and an increase in global appreciation. 

Amid economic fluctuations and changing market trends, the wine investment landscape has seen varied performances across regions. However, Italy, and particularly the Piedmont, has stood out for its robustness and resilience, outperforming other regions in maintaining and even enhancing its investment appeal.

Italy’s performance in a bearish market

The Liv-ex Italy 100 sub-index, which tracks the price performance of the top 100 Italian wines, has shown resilience in the current bearish market. While the broader Liv-ex 1000 index, representing a wider range of global wines, has experienced a decline of 5.2% year-to-date, the Italy 100 sub-index has seen a relatively minor decrease of 1.7%. 

This indicates a sustained interest in Italian wines, despite broader market uncertainties. Some Italian brands have even recorded positive movement in the last six months as high as 15%.

The rising stars of Piedmont

A significant contribution to this trend comes from the Piedmont, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco. 

Produttori del Barbaresco, a renowned cooperative known for its high-quality production, has seen impressive gains across a range of its wines. The Rabaja Riserva has risen 15% since the start of the year. The wine has an average case price of £968 per 12×75, and a Wine Track critic score of 94 points. 

From the same producer, the more affordable Ovello Riserva is up 9%, while the Montestefano Riserva is up 8%. 

From Barolo, Cascina Fontana has shown consistent returns. It has appreciated 6% in the last six months and a remarkable 105% over the last decade. The wine’s affordability at £665 average price per case makes it a value-driven choice for investors.

Meanwhile, Elio Grasso’s Barolo Gavarini Chiniera has increased 4% in the past six months and an impressive 110% in the last decade. 

Why Italy, and why now?

The resilience of the Italian wine market, particularly in premium segments like Barolo and Barbaresco, can be attributed to several factors such as historical significance, quality, limited production, and growing global appreciation for the value on offer.

Wines from Piedmont are steeped in history and are globally recognised for their quality and complexity, attracting both connoisseurs and investors.

The limited production and exclusivity of certain labels ensure their demand remains high, even in less favourable economic conditions. While these wines are highly sought-after, the brands above continue to offer value – all being under £1,000 a case despite recent gains.

Finally, Italian wines continue to see growing appreciation in key markets such as the UK, USA and Asia, broadening the investor base.

As we navigate through fluctuating markets, Italy, especially Piedmont, holds firm, demonstrating potential for growth. For investors, Barolo and Barbaresco represent stability, quality, and a legacy that stands resilient against the tides of economic change.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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WineCap’s Head of Content named in Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30

Harpers Wine & Spirit‘s prestigious 30 under 30 list has been unveiled, showcasing the top talents in the UK wine trade. We are delighted to announce that our Head of Content, Desislava Lyapova, has been included in the rankings. 

The publication received over 100 nominations, ‘with each prospective star deserving recognition’ for their leadership, commitment, communication, innovation, and sustainability initiatives. Jo Gilbert of Harpers noted the industry’s challenges, highlighting the importance of the passion and talent that the nominees bring to their roles.

The judging panel is comprised of esteemed industry figures such as Katy Keating (Flint Wines), Kim Wilson (North South Wines), Michael Saunders (Coterie Holdings), Miles Beale (WSTA), Rachel Webster (WSET), Regine Lee MW (Indigo Wine), and Jo Gilbert (Harpers Wine & Spirit). To make the shortlist, the judges convened over two days in separate groups, with scores averaged out. 

Desislava Lyapova stood out as the only wine investment specialist on this year’s list. During her tenure at WineCap, Lyapova has significantly boosted subscriber numbers through her PR efforts and comprehensive research reports, including those focusing on wealth management in the UK and US.

Desislava Lyapova Harper's Wine and Spirit 30 under 30

On the announcement, Alexander Westgarth, CEO of WineCap, congratulated Lyapova on her achievement:

‘I want to give a huge congratulations to all the winners of the Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30, especially our very own Desislava Lyapova. 

Desi has made a transformational impact at WineCap over the past two years. I can’t imagine anyone else who could have helped us achieve what she has. We are extremely proud to have Desi as a key member of our team.’

Before joining WineCap, Lyapova honed her skills as a Senior Writer at Liv-ex, the global marketplace for the wine trade. At WineCap, she has been pivotal in shaping the editorial direction, producing our Quarterly and Regional reports, leading En Primeur campaigns, and managing freelance and in-house teams, all the while enriching the content of the Academy and News sections.

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Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: an overview of the current campaign

  • Three weeks into the Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, we examine the pricing trends of the releases so far.
  • In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.
  • The Bordeaux 2023 vintage is characterised by diverse critic scores and some high achievers.

This year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign kicked off early and rapidly gained momentum. The first 2023 releases landed in the last week of April, shortly after trade professionals had returned from the region and before the publication of most critic reports.

Pricing, as always, remained a central issue. Questions arose about whether châteaux would consider the current market conditions, whether anticipated price reductions would drive interest, and ultimately, whether the Bordeaux 2023 vintage would prove a worthy investment.

Three weeks into the campaign, several major châteaux, including First Growths like Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, and Lafite Rothschild, have already launched their 2023 wines.

With most critic assessments now available and pricing trends becoming clearer, we delve into the details of the campaign so far.

Noteworthy releases

Château Léoville-Las Cases’ 2023 release marked a promising start to this year’s En Primeur. On April 30th, the wine was offered at a 40% discount on the previous year’s release. However, some older vintages still presented better value.

The first ‘great value’ release came from Château Lafite Rothschild in the same week. Its second wine, Carruades de Lafite, represented the lowest priced offering from the estate on the market today, playing on En Primeur’s original premise.

Similarly, Mouton Rothschild and Petit Mouton presented attractive opportunities for investors, released at 34.6% and 25.1% discounts on last year’s offerings respectively.

As a result, Liv-ex reported that both Château Lafite Rothschild 2023 and Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 have made their way onto the secondary market – although they have traded below their original release prices.

In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.

The average price cuts so far have been 21.5% compared to last year, with reductions ranging from 40% to none. Despite these cuts, many older vintages remain more affordable and often boast similar or better ratings, including those from 2019, 2017, and 2014.

Diverse scores and high achievers

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage has received a wide array of scores from leading critics, demonstrating a spectrum of quality across various appellations and estates.

Château Margaux consistently received high acclaim, with scores of 97-100 from both Antonio Galloni and William Kelley, and 99-100 from James Suckling. Neal Martin rated it as his second- highest wine of the vintage.

Another high achiever, Le Pin, received top marks with a perfect 100 from Peter Moser of Falstaff and 99-100 from Suckling. Château Montrose is also noteworthy, with a barrel range of 97-100 from Kelley and 99-100 from Suckling.

The critical consensus indicates a preference for wines from the Left Bank, which are noted to have fared better overall. The vintage is characterised by wines that lean towards a classic style, marked by their freshness and moderate alcohol content.

Despite the mixed nature of the vintage, there are several standout wines that show considerable promise. These wines are not only great for adding to a collection due to their potential to appreciate in value, but they also offer the kind of quality that makes them worth seeking out for those looking to enjoy fine wines in the years to come.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Jeb Dunnuck on Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

  • According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’.
  • He described most wines as ‘ripe yet not massive with more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.
  • Château Montrose received his highest barrel range of 97-100 points.

According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’. In his latest report, the critic delves into the growing season that shaped the vintage, comparisons with previous years, the En Primeur tastings and the current market for buying the new releases. Below we summarise his key findings. 

A heterogeneous vintage

An erratic growing season led to a divergence of styles between sub-regions and even neighbouring châteaux. Bordeaux 2023 witnessed ‘an incredibly successful flowering, huge mildew pressure in the spring, a slightly uninspiring summer that lacked sunlight, sporadic and very localised storms, and a heatwave at the end of August and September that sped up ripening and, according to many, saved the vintage’.

In terms of vintage comparisons, ‘some of the wines have a certain 2019-like sunny, easygoing style, while others can have a cooler, more structured, almost austere profile similar to 2020’. The common themes, according to the critic, are the ‘fully ripe aromatics and more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.

A Left Bank vintage?

Jeb Dunnuck pointed out that ‘at a high level, the Merlot is much riper and more opulent, and the Cabernets are slightly fresher and vibrant’. He suggested that the Left Bank had the upper hand in 2023, saying that ‘while there are unquestionably impressive wines from the Right Bank, the top Médoc and Graves seem to have another level of harmony and overall balance’.

In terms of overall quality and style, Dunnuck argued that Bordeaux 2023 ‘surpasses 2014, 2017, and 2021 yet is a solid step back from the incredible trio of 2018 through 2020, and most likely will be surpassed by 2022 as well’.

Jeb Dunnuck’s favourite Bordeaux 2023 wines

Dunnuck found potential for perfection in three wines, awarding a barrel range of up to 100 points. Château Montrose got his highest score (97-100), and he noted that ‘it has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage’.

Among the First Growths, only Château Margaux came close to perfection, with the critic saying that ‘it is clearly one of the greats in the vintage, and it actually reminds me a touch of the 1996, if not better’.

Regarding the 2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Dunnuck remarked that ‘the overall balance paired with opulence here is something to behold, and it’s incredible to find this level of quality in the vintage’.

Jeb Dunnuck Bordeaux 2023

Should you buy Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur?

Dunnuck outlines four main reasons why you should buy a vintage En Primeur: ‘1) If it is a great vintage; 2) If the wines are expected to increase in price; 3) If quantities are limited; and 4) If you are buying wines in formats other than 750-milliliter bottles’.

He defined 2023 as a ‘a borderline case’. While ‘it’s not a truly great vintage […] there are a handful of gems in the vintage that will rival the best from 2016, 2018, 2019, and 2020,’ the critic said.

In terms of pricing, he observed that it seemed to ‘be coming back to 2019 levels’, still he reckoned that ‘the time of substantial early gains from purchasing En Primeur has largely sailed’.

Our En Primeur offers only highlight wines that present great value for money in the context of the market prices for vintages currently available on the market. These are wines that hold significant potential for future price appreciation, and where the scores match the price. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

  • According to Neal Martin (Vinous), Bordeaux 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage riddled with paradoxes.
  • Only one wine achieved his highest score of 98-100 points – L’Eglise Clinet.
  • Martin suggested that ‘deep [price] cuts’ are needed for the campaign to work.

 Now that the En Primeur campaign has kicked off, critics have started releasing their Bordeaux 2023 in-barrel scores. Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of this ‘Dalmatian’ vintage, characterised by ‘spots of astounding quality’ but also ‘all manner of shortcomings’ – even in some of the region’s most famous names.

Bordeaux 2023 vintage overview

‘A season riddled with paradoxes,’ Neal Martin described Bordeaux 2023 as a heterogeneous vintage. According to him, it ‘would sit uncomfortably on a mantelpiece alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022’. However, the critic acknowledged that ‘some châteaux pulled out magical wines from their top hat, surpassing those aforementioned years in one or two cases’.

The keyword that defined 2023 is ‘classicism’, meaning ‘lower alcohol levels in the 13-something range,’ without the opulence of previous vintages.

Martin further noted that ‘the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s’. He continued: ‘The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense’.

Overall, Martin claimed that ‘despite the disparity in quality, it cannot be denied that it is bejewelled with a clutch of spellbinding wines’.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines can be seen in the table below. Only one wine achieved the maximum barrel range of 98-100 points – the 2023 L’Eglise Clinet. Martin said that ‘it’s very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish’.

Three wines received a barrel range of 97-99 points: Margaux, Lafleur and Le Pin. In his tasting note, Martin called the First Growth a ‘quintessential Château Margaux’ but noted that it ‘will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of’.

Regarding Lafleur, he said it was ‘one of the few profound wines this vintage’. He described Le Pin as ‘so pure and refined, it seems to embrace and gently hug the senses’.

En Primeur and the global market

Despite the virtues of the vintage, the question of whether it will present value is pertinent in the current economic climate. For Martin, the ‘newborn wines blink open their eyes to survey a bleak economic landscape and finger-pointing between various factions as to who’s to blame’. He said that ‘deep cuts, not gestures, are the only thing that will open wallets’.

This week’s first releases have seen discounts of up to 40% on last year. However, back vintages of similar quality that remain available for less continue to challenge the En Primeur tradition.

Stay tuned for our analysis of the best value releases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Fine wine market trends amid economic shifts in Q1 2024

The following article is an extract from our Q1 2024 Fine Wine Report which will be published in full later this week.

  • The industry benchmark Liv-ex 100 index fell 1% in Q1 2024, a milder decline than the 4.2% dip at the end of last year.
  • Bond and equity markets rallied in anticipation of interest rate cuts by major central banks.
  • Over the past twenty years, the Liv-ex 1000’s most significant year-on-year dip was only 15%, less severe than that of major stock indices like the S&P 500 (-45%).

After a challenging start to the year, the global economy is showing signs of resilience and potential growth. As we moved past the first quarter of 2024, both bond and equity markets rallied in anticipation of interest rate cuts by major central banks. Notably, sectors like the fine wine market are expected to benefit from these shifts, although the impact has not yet materialised.

The fine wine market in Q1 2024

The industry benchmark, Liv-ex 100 index, saw a modest decline of 1% in Q1 2024, an improvement from the 4.2% dip observed at the end of the previous year. This index experienced a slight drop of 0.3% in January and 1.1% in February but recovered in March with a 0.4% increase, marking its first rise in twelve months. Influential movers included Promontory and Dominus from Napa Valley, Super Tuscan Sassicaia, and Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite this recovery, the fine wine market’s performance still lags behind mainstream financial markets.

Comparing mainstream markets

Mainstream indices such as the Nikkei 225 and the S&P 500 have shown remarkable strength over the past year. Their annual growth from March 2023 to March 2024 ranks in the top 10% of year-on-year periods this century.

However, bond and equity markets experienced heightened volatility at the beginning of the year, due to geopolitical risks like the Middle East conflict and ongoing uncertainty around interest rates. This confluence of factors boosted the safe-haven asset Gold which has extended its run on buying momentum.

Liv-ex 100 vs mainstream markets and Gold

A decade of the Liv-ex 1000 index

Celebrating ten years since its official launch in January 2014, the Liv-ex 1000 index provides two decades of insight into fine wine prices, encompassing a wide range of regions including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône, Italy, and the rest of the world (Spain, Portugal, the USA, and Australia).

Over the past twenty years, while the Liv-ex 1000 has seen 64 year-on-year declines, its most significant drop was only 15%, considerably less severe than that of major stock indices like the S&P 500, which once fell by 45%.

On the upside, the Liv-ex 1000’s best annual performance showed gains of 38%, comparable to those of major indices like the FTSE 100 and the Dow Jones, and its average growth rate of 8.4% is higher than many mainstream markets, only trailing behind the S&P 500.

Liv-ex 1000 vs mainstream markets

As the global markets navigate through turbulent waters, the nuanced performance of the fine wine sector, detailed in our comprehensive Q1 2024 report, continues to offer valuable perspectives on both the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead.

Stay tuned for the full report later this week.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Which Bordeaux First Growth has the lowest price per point?

  • The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on their market price and perceived quality.
  • This article examines the prices per point of the most liquid group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • It also looks at their historic market performances.

Price per point is an indicator of value; it is calculated by dividing the average case price of a given wine by its average critic score. For some wines, prices and points line up. Typically, a 100-point wine will cost more than a 95-point one, though not always. The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on both their market price and perceived quality, offering a nuanced view of their value.

Today we examine the price-per-point ratios of the most liquid and popular group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths. Which Grand Vin has the lowest price per point and thus offers the best value as a brand?

First Growths – price per point

An average case price of £4,429 makes Château Haut-Brion the most affordable of the First Growths. Meanwhile, it has the highest average Wine Track score of 95.9 points. While there is divergence in prices and scores on a vintage-specific level, Château Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point among the First Growths overall.

First Growths average prices and scores

At the other end of the spectrum, Château Lafite Rothschild has the highest price per point of £64, owing to the highest average case price of £6,129 and a Wine Track score of 95.8.

What does this mean for the wines’ performance?

Historically, the First Growths have followed a similar trajectory of highs and lows. They all peaked during the China-led bull market (H1 2011) and experienced a subsequent downfall. Prices started to rise again following the Brexit referendum and have since largely maintained their level. They have fallen in the last year in line with the broader market (the Liv-ex 50 which tracks the First Growths is down 15.3% over one year – the same as the broadest measure, the Liv-ex 1000 index).

First Growths performance

Of the five First Growths, Lafite has risen the most, with our index peaking in February 2011. Recently, however, it has been the biggest faller, dipping 19% in the last year. Haut-Brion, which has been a more modest performer without delivering the same heights, has dipped the least of the First Growths (10%) during the same period. With a more stable market performance, Haut-Brion offers further opportunities for investors and collectors where the price per point remains comparatively low.

Wines that offer value perform the best

In the case of Haut-Brion, value plays an important role in market performance. POP wines (those with a lower price per point) have outperformed the rest over 15 years. These include vintages 2002, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2019 (the only prime vintage among the POP wines).

The second-best-performing index comprises older ‘prime’ vintages – wines with high scores pre-2000. However, this index has shown higher volatility due to the limited availability and trading volumes of these wines.

The index comprising younger ‘on’ vintages like 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2020 has underperformed the rest of the pack. However, these wines have also had less time in the market and their evolution is yet to be seen.

Haut-Brion vintage performance

In conclusion, looking at price per point gives an indication of value and quality. However, historic market performance is telling for investors looking for stability or higher risk and potentially higher rewards.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Ten years on: Neal Martin reviews Bordeaux 2014

  • Neal Martin recently reviewed Bordeaux 2014 ten years on.
  • The critic noted that many of the wines have evolved faster than expected.
  • He declared it a Left Bank vintage and gave his highest score to Mouton Rothschild.

Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2014 following two consecutive tastings, including the annual Southwold 10-years-on event.

Martin’s overall impression was that the wines were ‘more unpredictable than other vintages’, and ones to ‘approach with modest expectations’. For him, many of them deserve drinking in the near future, but some are yet to deliver more.

On the question of Left vs Right Bank, the critic noted that the Left Bank has proven to be more consistent. When it comes to best-performing appellations, his pick was Saint-Julien.

Bordeaux 2014 ageing potential

Ten years on, the 2014 vintage has ‘evolved faster than envisaged’, according to Martin. The critic said that ‘it twinkled brightly in its youth, but many of its alumni were not predisposed toward longevity’. He further noted that ‘it certainly lacks the legs of, say, 2010 or 2016, perhaps even 2012 or 2017’.

Martin singled out wines that still have a life ahead of them and will be ‘intriguing to revisit at 15 years’, including Léoville Poyferré, Mouton Rothschild, Lafleur and Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

Favourite wines

For Martin, the wines that have ‘much more to offer’ and sit ‘up the hierarchy’ were Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Ausone and Pavie. ‘L’Eglise-Clinet, Lafleur and in particular, Vieux Château Certan, excel over in Pomerol, likewise Petrus and Clos l’Eglise,’ the critic added.

However, he warned that ‘none of the aforementioned ranks among their best wines’.

A personal favourite from Pessac-Léognan was Domaine de Chevalier. He also liked Pape-Clément and Haut-Bailly. His top-scoring wines can be seen in the table below.

Neal Martin's top-scoring Bordeaux 2014 wines

Mouton Rothschild received the highest score of 97 points. Martin argued that it was ‘contender for wine of the vintage’ and ‘one of a handful of wines that transcends the limitations of the season, partly due to the skills of former winemaker Philippe Dhalluin’.

The critic also said that ‘the 2014 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is outstanding and performed neck-and-neck with the First Growths’.

Bordeaux 2014 – performance since release

While the vintage may not sit up with the very best like 2010 or 2016, many of the wines offer relative value and a lower-than-average entry point into Bordeaux’s top brands.

Moreover, some have delivered handsome returns since release. Beyond the obvious performers of Carruades de Lafite (208.3%) and Petit Mouton (173.1%) and wines like Figeac (164.5%) which have benefited from changing classification, there is considerable growth to be found in some 2014s. For instance, Beychevelle has risen 165.4%, Calon Ségur – 113.4%, La Conseillante – 93.0%, and Canon-La Gaffelière – 80.3%. To see overall brand performances, visit Wine Track.

Bordeaux 2014 performance since release

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