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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Mouton Rothschild 2023
  • According to Neal Martin (Vinous), Bordeaux 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage riddled with paradoxes.
  • Only one wine achieved his highest score of 98-100 points – L’Eglise Clinet.
  • Martin suggested that ‘deep [price] cuts’ are needed for the campaign to work.

 Now that the En Primeur campaign has kicked off, critics have started releasing their Bordeaux 2023 in-barrel scores. Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of this ‘Dalmatian’ vintage, characterised by ‘spots of astounding quality’ but also ‘all manner of shortcomings’ – even in some of the region’s most famous names.

Bordeaux 2023 vintage overview

‘A season riddled with paradoxes,’ Neal Martin described Bordeaux 2023 as a heterogeneous vintage. According to him, it ‘would sit uncomfortably on a mantelpiece alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022’. However, the critic acknowledged that ‘some châteaux pulled out magical wines from their top hat, surpassing those aforementioned years in one or two cases’.

The keyword that defined 2023 is ‘classicism’, meaning ‘lower alcohol levels in the 13-something range,’ without the opulence of previous vintages.

Martin further noted that ‘the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s’. He continued: ‘The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense’.

Overall, Martin claimed that ‘despite the disparity in quality, it cannot be denied that it is bejewelled with a clutch of spellbinding wines’.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines can be seen in the table below. Only one wine achieved the maximum barrel range of 98-100 points – the 2023 L’Eglise Clinet. Martin said that ‘it’s very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish’.

Three wines received a barrel range of 97-99 points: Margaux, Lafleur and Le Pin. In his tasting note, Martin called the First Growth a ‘quintessential Château Margaux’ but noted that it ‘will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of’.

Regarding Lafleur, he said it was ‘one of the few profound wines this vintage’. He described Le Pin as ‘so pure and refined, it seems to embrace and gently hug the senses’.

En Primeur and the global market

Despite the virtues of the vintage, the question of whether it will present value is pertinent in the current economic climate. For Martin, the ‘newborn wines blink open their eyes to survey a bleak economic landscape and finger-pointing between various factions as to who’s to blame’. He said that ‘deep cuts, not gestures, are the only thing that will open wallets’.

This week’s first releases have seen discounts of up to 40% on last year. However, back vintages of similar quality that remain available for less continue to challenge the En Primeur tradition.

Stay tuned for our analysis of the best value releases.

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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

Bordeaux 2023
  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

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Fine wine market trends amid economic shifts in Q1 2024

Fine wine market

The following article is an extract from our Q1 2024 Fine Wine Report which will be published in full later this week.

  • The industry benchmark Liv-ex 100 index fell 1% in Q1 2024, a milder decline than the 4.2% dip at the end of last year.
  • Bond and equity markets rallied in anticipation of interest rate cuts by major central banks.
  • Over the past twenty years, the Liv-ex 1000’s most significant year-on-year dip was only 15%, less severe than that of major stock indices like the S&P 500 (-45%).

After a challenging start to the year, the global economy is showing signs of resilience and potential growth. As we moved past the first quarter of 2024, both bond and equity markets rallied in anticipation of interest rate cuts by major central banks. Notably, sectors like the fine wine market are expected to benefit from these shifts, although the impact has not yet materialised.

The fine wine market in Q1 2024

The industry benchmark, Liv-ex 100 index, saw a modest decline of 1% in Q1 2024, an improvement from the 4.2% dip observed at the end of the previous year. This index experienced a slight drop of 0.3% in January and 1.1% in February but recovered in March with a 0.4% increase, marking its first rise in twelve months. Influential movers included Promontory and Dominus from Napa Valley, Super Tuscan Sassicaia, and Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite this recovery, the fine wine market’s performance still lags behind mainstream financial markets.

Comparing mainstream markets

Mainstream indices such as the Nikkei 225 and the S&P 500 have shown remarkable strength over the past year. Their annual growth from March 2023 to March 2024 ranks in the top 10% of year-on-year periods this century.

However, bond and equity markets experienced heightened volatility at the beginning of the year, due to geopolitical risks like the Middle East conflict and ongoing uncertainty around interest rates. This confluence of factors boosted the safe-haven asset Gold which has extended its run on buying momentum.

Liv-ex 100 vs mainstream markets and Gold

A decade of the Liv-ex 1000 index

Celebrating ten years since its official launch in January 2014, the Liv-ex 1000 index provides two decades of insight into fine wine prices, encompassing a wide range of regions including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône, Italy, and the rest of the world (Spain, Portugal, the USA, and Australia).

Over the past twenty years, while the Liv-ex 1000 has seen 64 year-on-year declines, its most significant drop was only 15%, considerably less severe than that of major stock indices like the S&P 500, which once fell by 45%.

On the upside, the Liv-ex 1000’s best annual performance showed gains of 38%, comparable to those of major indices like the FTSE 100 and the Dow Jones, and its average growth rate of 8.4% is higher than many mainstream markets, only trailing behind the S&P 500.

Liv-ex 1000 vs mainstream markets

As the global markets navigate through turbulent waters, the nuanced performance of the fine wine sector, detailed in our comprehensive Q1 2024 report, continues to offer valuable perspectives on both the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead.

Stay tuned for the full report later this week.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

Lafite Rothschild
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  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

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Which Bordeaux First Growth has the lowest price per point?

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  • The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on their market price and perceived quality.
  • This article examines the prices per point of the most liquid group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths.
  • It also looks at their historic market performances.

Price per point is an indicator of value; it is calculated by dividing the average case price of a given wine by its average critic score. For some wines, prices and points line up. Typically, a 100-point wine will cost more than a 95-point one, though not always. The price-per-point metric allows for a comparison of wines based on both their market price and perceived quality, offering a nuanced view of their value.

Today we examine the price-per-point ratios of the most liquid and popular group of wines – the Bordeaux First Growths. Which Grand Vin has the lowest price per point and thus offers the best value as a brand?

First Growths – price per point

An average case price of £4,429 makes Château Haut-Brion the most affordable of the First Growths. Meanwhile, it has the highest average Wine Track score of 95.9 points. While there is divergence in prices and scores on a vintage-specific level, Château Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point among the First Growths overall.

First Growths average prices and scores

At the other end of the spectrum, Château Lafite Rothschild has the highest price per point of £64, owing to the highest average case price of £6,129 and a Wine Track score of 95.8.

What does this mean for the wines’ performance?

Historically, the First Growths have followed a similar trajectory of highs and lows. They all peaked during the China-led bull market (H1 2011) and experienced a subsequent downfall. Prices started to rise again following the Brexit referendum and have since largely maintained their level. They have fallen in the last year in line with the broader market (the Liv-ex 50 which tracks the First Growths is down 15.3% over one year – the same as the broadest measure, the Liv-ex 1000 index).

First Growths performance

Of the five First Growths, Lafite has risen the most, with our index peaking in February 2011. Recently, however, it has been the biggest faller, dipping 19% in the last year. Haut-Brion, which has been a more modest performer without delivering the same heights, has dipped the least of the First Growths (10%) during the same period. With a more stable market performance, Haut-Brion offers further opportunities for investors and collectors where the price per point remains comparatively low.

Wines that offer value perform the best

In the case of Haut-Brion, value plays an important role in market performance. POP wines (those with a lower price per point) have outperformed the rest over 15 years. These include vintages 2002, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2019 (the only prime vintage among the POP wines).

The second-best-performing index comprises older ‘prime’ vintages – wines with high scores pre-2000. However, this index has shown higher volatility due to the limited availability and trading volumes of these wines.

The index comprising younger ‘on’ vintages like 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2020 has underperformed the rest of the pack. However, these wines have also had less time in the market and their evolution is yet to be seen.

Haut-Brion vintage performance

In conclusion, looking at price per point gives an indication of value and quality. However, historic market performance is telling for investors looking for stability or higher risk and potentially higher rewards.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Ten years on: Neal Martin reviews Bordeaux 2014

Bordeaux
  • Neal Martin recently reviewed Bordeaux 2014 ten years on.
  • The critic noted that many of the wines have evolved faster than expected.
  • He declared it a Left Bank vintage and gave his highest score to Mouton Rothschild.

Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2014 following two consecutive tastings, including the annual Southwold 10-years-on event.

Martin’s overall impression was that the wines were ‘more unpredictable than other vintages’, and ones to ‘approach with modest expectations’. For him, many of them deserve drinking in the near future, but some are yet to deliver more.

On the question of Left vs Right Bank, the critic noted that the Left Bank has proven to be more consistent. When it comes to best-performing appellations, his pick was Saint-Julien.

Bordeaux 2014 ageing potential

Ten years on, the 2014 vintage has ‘evolved faster than envisaged’, according to Martin. The critic said that ‘it twinkled brightly in its youth, but many of its alumni were not predisposed toward longevity’. He further noted that ‘it certainly lacks the legs of, say, 2010 or 2016, perhaps even 2012 or 2017’.

Martin singled out wines that still have a life ahead of them and will be ‘intriguing to revisit at 15 years’, including Léoville Poyferré, Mouton Rothschild, Lafleur and Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

Favourite wines

For Martin, the wines that have ‘much more to offer’ and sit ‘up the hierarchy’ were Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Ausone and Pavie. ‘L’Eglise-Clinet, Lafleur and in particular, Vieux Château Certan, excel over in Pomerol, likewise Petrus and Clos l’Eglise,’ the critic added.

However, he warned that ‘none of the aforementioned ranks among their best wines’.

A personal favourite from Pessac-Léognan was Domaine de Chevalier. He also liked Pape-Clément and Haut-Bailly. His top-scoring wines can be seen in the table below.

Neal Martin's top-scoring Bordeaux 2014 wines

Mouton Rothschild received the highest score of 97 points. Martin argued that it was ‘contender for wine of the vintage’ and ‘one of a handful of wines that transcends the limitations of the season, partly due to the skills of former winemaker Philippe Dhalluin’.

The critic also said that ‘the 2014 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is outstanding and performed neck-and-neck with the First Growths’.

Bordeaux 2014 – performance since release

While the vintage may not sit up with the very best like 2010 or 2016, many of the wines offer relative value and a lower-than-average entry point into Bordeaux’s top brands.

Moreover, some have delivered handsome returns since release. Beyond the obvious performers of Carruades de Lafite (208.3%) and Petit Mouton (173.1%) and wines like Figeac (164.5%) which have benefited from changing classification, there is considerable growth to be found in some 2014s. For instance, Beychevelle has risen 165.4%, Calon Ségur – 113.4%, La Conseillante – 93.0%, and Canon-La Gaffelière – 80.3%. To see overall brand performances, visit Wine Track.

Bordeaux 2014 performance since release

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Green shoots in the fine wine market

  • Green shoots are starting to appear in the fine wine market after a year of consistent declines.
  • On a regional level, prices for Champagne and Italian wine rose last month.
  • We highlight individual brands that have shown positive performances over the last three months.

Green shoots are starting to appear in the fine wine market after a year of consistent declines. The industry benchmark, the Liv-ex 100 index, has been on a freefall since March 2023, dipping 14.6% during this time. Meanwhile, the broader Liv-ex 1000 index has fallen 15.3%.

But the market is now showing modest signs of recovery. In February, the Champagne 50 index rose for the first time in 18 months (1% MoM). The Italy 100 index also went up in December last year, and again in February amid a flurry of new releases.

Green shoots generally refer to signs of growth during a downturn. These are especially visible in regional performances.

Looking at individual wines, there are more reasons for cautious optimism. Leading brands from Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, Tuscany and Piedmont have been trending upward over the last three months.

Champagne bounces back

For instance, a number of Champagnes have risen between 2% and 7% since the end of last year, including Dom Pérignon (2%), Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru (4%), Pol Roger (6%) and Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé (7%). By contrast, many of these wines were on a downward trend six months ago. Although they have made only small gains, it looks as if tables have started to turn.

Italy’s resilient performance

This theme can also be observed in Italy. From Tuscany, Ornellaia has risen 3% in the last three months, while Antinori’s Guado Al Tasso is up 2%. Even bigger moves have been made by some Piedmont brands, like Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva up 7%. Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo and Vietti Barolo Brunate have increased by 3% and 2% respectively. As examined last week, recent high-quality Italian releases have stimulated demand and secondary market activity for the region.

Bordeaux and the search for value

In Bordeaux, value has proven to be key. Popular wines beyond the First Growths and the top names have enjoyed price appreciation. These include Château Malescot St. Exupéry (3%), Château Gruaud Larose (2%) and Château La Gaffelière  (2%). The average case price of these wines comfortably sits below £750.

Burgundy’s return to stability

Burgundy, which has fallen the most of all regions, also seems to be making a comeback with some high-flyers. Among them are Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (12%) and Maison Louis Jadot Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaux Monts (7%).

While the general theme of the market continues to be one full of buying opportunities at cheaper-than-average prices, recent signs of growth suggest that a slow and steady recovery might soon be underway for some regions.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Italian wine enjoys demand amid new releases

  • New releases from Italy have led to increased secondary market activity for the region.
  • Italian fine wine prices rose in February with some wines enjoying double-digit returns.
  • The 100-point Sassicaia 2021 has traded with a premium since its release last month.

Italian wine is currently in the spotlight amid a flurry of new releases, including the high-quality Brunello 2019 vintage and the 2021 vintage of the Super Tuscans Sassicaia and Ornellaia.

Brunello 2019 enters the market

The 2019 Brunello vintage is shaping up to be exceptional, potentially surpassing the subsequent vintages of 2020, 2021, and 2022, which were characterised by significantly higher temperatures. In terms of quality, critics have placed it on par with 2016, 2010 and 2006.

While Brunello may not dominate the fine wine market as prominently as the Super Tuscans, it has potential for attractive investment returns, especially from producers like Biondi Santi, Poggio di Sotto, and Casanova di Neri. These wines often come at more appealing price points compared to their counterparts.

For instance, Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino has risen 73% in value over the last five years, outperforming the likes of Sassicaia and Masseto. Poggio di Sotto’s performance has been equally impressive, rising 187% in the last decade, while Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova has been up 126%. At the top end, the more expensive and highly sought-after Soldera Casse Basse has returned 237% over the same period.

The historic performance of these brands strengthens the case for buying in vintages where the quality is high, and where the releases offer relative value.

Super Tuscan releases

In the world of fine wine, the most talked about Italian releases have been Sassicaia and Ornellaia 2021.

Ornellaia 2021 was released at £1,850 per 12×75, the same price as the 2020 release. At this price, the wine is the most expensive recent vintage on the market since 2016. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) awarded it 99-points and said that it ‘captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast’. Meanwhile, Monica Larner (Wine Advocate) gave it 96-points and described it as ‘a very open-knit and exuberant Tuscan red’.

Ornellaia

Sassicaia 2021 was released last month at £2,500 per case, up 4.2% on the 2020‘s release price. The wine has since traded at a premium on the secondary market. It received 100-points from Monica Larner who called it ‘a quintessential Sassicaia that represents the excellence of the vintage and also respects the unique taste profile of this distinguished Tuscan blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc’. Galloni gave it 98+ points and noted that it was ‘one of the best young Sassicaias I can remember tasting’. ‘In a word: magnificent’, said the critic.

Sassicaia

Italy gathers momentum

Recent releases have stimulated the secondary market for Italian wine. The region has been the best performing fine wine market segment over the last two years, as well as in the last few months. In February, the Liv-ex Italy 100 index posted a modest rise of 0.1%, but some vintages of Fontodi Flaccianello delle Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale, Tignanello and Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva enjoyed double-digit returns.

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Bordeaux 2021 in bottle: Vinous’ top-scoring wines

  • Neal Martin said Bordeaux 2021 shouldn’t be dismissed and identified an ‘overachiever’ among the wines in this challenging vintage.
  • According to Antonio Galloni, the quality is higher on the Left Bank than on the Right Bank.
  • A dry white wine and a Sauternes were the critics’ top-scoring wines from the vintage.

Vinous recently published two separate Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle reports by Neal Martin and Antonio Galloni. In this article, we summarise their views on this polarising vintage.

Why Bordeaux 2021 should not be ignored

In his report, titled ‘2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle’, Neal Martin explained why ‘irrationality tastes good’ and why Bordeaux 2021 shouldn’t be ignored. He said that ‘on paper, a cursory glance at the troubled growing season would make any rational person dismiss its wines’. But the critic argued that they would be wrong.

While Martin awarded few wines more than 95 points, he advised readers against ‘thinking that the 2021 vintage is incapable of giving sensory and intellectual pleasure’.

According to him, advanced technology and refined winemaking made a fundamental difference at the top end, and thus 2021 cannot be compared ‘with off-vintages like 1977, 1992 or arguably even 2013’.

Martin singled out Les Carmes Haut-Brion as an ‘overachiever’ that ‘halts you in your tracks’ and noted that ‘there is a cluster of very strong-performing wines on the Left Bank that merit attention and possess the substance to repay cellaring’. He added that ‘the Right Bank matches the Left Bank, particularly the usual names on the Pomerol plateau […] and likewise those in Saint-Émilion on free-draining limestone soils’.

Similarly, Galloni found ‘a wide range of compelling wines that merit attention’ within the context of a challenging growing season.

‘In many ways, 2021 can be summarized as a year in which classic Bordeaux weather of the past meets the technical know-how of today in both the vineyard and winery,’ the critic argued.

Overall, he said, ‘the quality is higher and more consistent on the Left Bank over the Right Bank, even though at the very top, the best Right Bank wines can only be described as stellar’.

Galloni called Calon Ségur, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Lafite Rothschild, Pichon-Comtesse and Rauzan-Ségla ‘magnificent’, Les Carmes Haut-Brion – ‘majestic’, Vieux Château Certan, Cheval Blanc, Canon, and Lafleur – ‘compelling’. He also made a special mention of the dry white wines, namely Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Haut-Brion Blanc and Domaine de Chevalier Blanc.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2021 wines

Neal Martin Bordeaux 2021 scores

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2021 was a dry white wine, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, while Galloni gave a near-perfect score to a wine from Sauternes – Suduiraut.

Wines that appeared in both critics’ top ten included Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Vieux Château Certan, Lafleur, and Cheval Blanc.

For Galloni, Vieux Château Certan ‘may very well be the wine of the vintage from the Right Bank’, while Martin commented that it ‘transcends the limitations of the growing season’, calling it ‘outstanding’.

Another wine that critics agreed on was Lafleur, which Galloni described as ‘incredibly fascinating’ in 2021, and Neal Martin noted as a ‘strong contender for the wine of the vintage’.

Antonio Galloni Bordeaux 2021 scores

Full report and tasting notes are available on Vinous.

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Wine Advocate releases Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

Bordeaux 2021
  • Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle.
  • According to the report, the best producers ‘especially those working with the best terroirs […] have produced some excellent wines’.
  • Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and Montrose were the highest-scoring wines of the vintage, receiving 97 points.

Wine Advocate has released William Kelley’s report on Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle based on his tastings, alongside his colleague Yohan Castaing. Kelley’s in-bottle verdict confirms his En Primeur assessment of this variable vintage.

A farmers’ vintage

Kelley wrote that the results were mixed, but ‘the best farmers, especially those working with the best terroirs and armed with the resources to take risks and make a strict selection, have produced some excellent wines’.

2021 is largely seen as a ‘farmers’ vintage’. According to Kelley, ‘the best 2021s are beautiful wines that exemplify how much technical progress Bordeaux has made over the last decade in the vineyards and in the winery’.

He attributes the best results to nurture over nature; however, this ‘doesn’t change the results in the glass’.

Vintage comparisons

Due to the heterogeneous nature of the 2021s, stylistic comparisons with back vintages are harder to make. For Kelley, ‘many wines are supple and charming, reminiscent of a modern-day version of the 1999 vintage: the perfect “restaurant vintage,” if one forgets their price’.

He added that ‘some of the best northern Médoc reds, with their serious, intensely Cabernet Sauvignon-driven personalities, evoke the 1996 vintage; whereas the Right Bank’s best 2021s are more sensual and seductive’.

When it comes to pricing, many 2021s are now available below their release price, making them an attractive investment proposition where quality is high.

The best Bordeaux 2021s

Kelley highlighted Cheval Blanc (97), Figeac (96+), Haut-Brion (97), Léoville-Las Cases (96+) and Montrose (97) as his wines of the vintage.

For Castaing, the 2021 First Growth reflects ‘the timeless elegance of Haut-Brions from cooler years [and] will delight Bordeaux purists’.

When it comes to Cheval Blanc, Kelley revealed that ‘director Pierre-Olivier Clouet even considers it to be superior to the 2020, a preference that I share’. The 2021 is one of the most affordable recent vintages from the estate.

The other highest-scoring wine, Montrose, got Kelley’s ‘nomination for the title of “wine of the vintage” in the Médoc’. The critic said it ‘entirely transcends the limitations of the year’.

Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle scores

Full report and tasting notes are available on the Wine Advocate’s website.

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