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The state of the fine wine market so far in 2024

Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet vineyard
  • Fine wine remains a buyer’s market in 2024.
  • Burgundy prices have fallen the most, while Italy has been the most resilient region. 
  • Some wines have outperformed the market, such as L’Église-Clinet 2012.

The fine wine market remains a buyer’s market in 2024. All fine wine regions have experienced declines, with prices for Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne falling the most. 

Still, some wine brands have outperformed the market by far – such as Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, which is up 23% since the beginning of the year.

Regional wine performance so far in 2024

The fine wine market’s downturn has continued into 2024. The broadest measure of the market, the Liv-ex 1000 index, is down 4.9% year-to-date. Within it, Burgundy (-7.0%) and the Rest of the World (-4.8%) sub-indices have fallen the most. 

The Champagne 50 index is also down 4.5%. However, the index rose 0.9% last month, buoyed by Dom Pérignon 2006 and 2012, Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2008 and various vintages of Pol Roger’s Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. 

Liv-ex regional wine indices 2024

As we have previously explored, Italy has been the most resilient fine wine region, down 2.3% year-to-date. Its performance has been stabilised by brands from Piedmont, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco. 

The Rhône 100 index, which has been the perennial underperformer over the long term, has also experienced lesser declines this year, falling just 3.2%. Outside the Liv-ex 1000 index, the California 50 is down 3.8%. 

The biggest risers this year

Despite broader market uncertainties, some brands have risen by close to 30% in value since the beginning of the year (as of August 1st).

With an average case price of £720, Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes Blanc is up 26% this year. It has been followed by a high-profile Burgundy – Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, which has risen 23%. 

The most expensive wine on the rankings, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée Grand Cru, has enjoyed an 11% rise. 

Best performing wine brands H1 2024

The best performing wines

When it comes to the best performing individual wines, Bordeaux leads the way with L’Église-Clinet 2012, up an impressive 38%. It has been followed by Cheval Blanc 1998, up 27%. 

Another top Bordeaux comes fourth – Gruaud Larose 2018 (19%). Sweet Bordeaux also features in the table with two vintages from Suduiraut, 2019 and 2010, and Climens 2015.  

Meanwhile, Champagne’s best performer is the ‘gorgeous’ (AG 98 points) Krug 2004, up 26%. 

Best performing wines H1 2024

While the fine wine market has continued to face declines across most regions in 2024, presenting great opportunities for lower-than-average prices, some wines have shown remarkable resilience. Even in a buyer’s market, excellence prevails.   

For more on the state of the fine wine market, read our latest quarterly report. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The growing importance of sustainability in fine wine investment

  • Sustainability is a major factor influencing investor decisions in the UK.
  • Fine wine producers are embracing sustainable viticulture techniques aimed at reducing their carbon footprint and making a social impact.
  • Fine wine is a forward-thinking sustainable investment choice.

Sustainability is a major factor influencing investor decisions in the UK. Fine wine producers are increasingly embracing sustainable viticulture techniques aimed at reducing their carbon footprint, making fine wine a forward-thinking investment choice.

The evolving landscape of fine wine investment

In recent years, the landscape of fine wine investment has undergone significant changes. Beyond the traditional allure of rarity and prestige, a new motivation is influencing investor decisions in the UK: sustainability.

This shift reflects a broader global trend where environmental, social, and governance (ESG) factors are increasingly shaping investment strategies across various asset classes, including fine wine. Investors are now looking at the environmental impact of their investments, and fine wine is emerging as a preferred choice for those who prioritise sustainability.

UK investors prioritise sustainability

Historically, investing in fine wine has mostly been driven by passion, financial gains, and the status of owning rare vintages from a select few vineyards. 

However, as society becomes more conscious of sustainability issues, there has been increased global demand for sustainable and impactful investing. Fine wine is ideally positioned to benefit from this shift.

Recent research conducted for our 2024 UK Wealth Report found that sustainability has emerged as the most important factor influencing the preferences of both seasoned and novice investors in the fine wine market. 

UK investor motivations 2024

Our 2023 survey found that 56% of investors are attracted to fine wine because it is a sustainable asset class with a low carbon footprint. In 2024, this positive investor sentiment towards fine wine has increased in the UK, with 68% of the survey respondents citing sustainability as their top motivation to invest in fine wine. 

UK investors increasingly recognise the benefits of ethical alignment, accessibility, and financial viability that fine wine brings as an asset.

The benefits of sustainable investing

One of the most compelling selling points of fine wine investment lies in its low-carbon benefits. Many fine wine producers are embracing sustainable viticulture techniques aimed at reducing carbon footprints, as outlined in our Fine Wine Sustainability Report.

Vineyards leading the charge are implementing methods to preserve old vines, adapt to climate change, mitigate environmental impact, and promote biodiversity. These sustainable practices not only benefit the environment but also enhance the quality and longevity of the wine, making it an even more attractive investment.

The expanding appeal of sustainable investing is expected to grow, driven by environmentally conscious investors seeking resilient assets that offer both financial security and ethical value. This trend not only enhances the market appeal of fine wine but also reinforces its status as a forward-thinking investment choice.

A deeper dive into the changing fine wine investment attitudes

For those interested in exploring this trend further, WineCap’s 2024 Wealth Report offers an in-depth look into the top motivations for investing in fine wine, the trends shaping the landscape in the UK, and investor sentiment.

This comprehensive report provides valuable insights for both current and prospective investors, highlighting the growing importance of sustainability in the fine wine market.

Download a complimentary copy of WineCap’s 2024 Wealth Report to gain a deeper understanding of this evolving market and the role of sustainability in shaping its future.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The best of Dom Pérignon: top vintages and investment opportunities

  • Dom Pérignon is one of the most popular wine brands in the world, resonating with drinkers, collectors and investors.
  • This week saw the latest Dom Pérignon vintage release – the 2015. 
  • Dom Pérignon prices have risen on average 90% in the last decade.

Dom Pérignon is one of the most popular wine brands in the world. It consistently ranks in Wine-Searcher’s top five most searched-for wines, and its label resonates with drinkers, collectors and investors alike.

Latest vintage release: Dom Pérignon 2015

This week saw the latest vintage release from the renowned Champagne house – Dom Pérignon 2015, with a recommended retail price of £1,750 per 12×75 case. The wine boasts 96 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous) who said that it ‘shows terrific energy’ and ‘is a fine showing in a vintage that has proven to be tricky’.

Brief history of Dom Pérignon

Dom Pérignon is named after a Benedictine monk, Dom Pierre Pérignon (1638–1715). As a cellar master at the Abbey of Hautvillers in the Champagne region of France, he significantly contributed to the quality and production methods of Champagne, such as blending grapes from different vineyards and improving clarity. Moët & Chandon introduced the Dom Pérignon brand as its prestige cuvée in the 20th century, with the first vintage released in 1921. Since then, the wine has become synonymous with luxury and celebration.

Dom Pérignon investment performance

Dom Pérignon has been one of the most popular Champagne brands for investment for a reason. On average, prices have risen 90% over the last decade. The Dom Pérignon index hit an all-time high in November 2022 (up 136% since June 2014). Prices have since come off their peak making now an opportune time to buy, given the overall upward trend. 

Dom Perignon index

The average Dom Pérignon price per case is £2,260, making it more affordable than other popular investment-grade Champagnes like Krug, Louis Roederer Cristal, Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, Bollinger RD and Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, all the while providing similar returns.

The highest-scoring Dom Pérignon vintages 

The highest-scoring Dom Pérignon vintage from Galloni is the 2008 (98+), which he describes as ‘magnificent’ and a ‘Champagne that plays in three dimensions’.

The 2004 (‘one of my favourite Dom Pérignons’) and 2002 (‘speaks to opulence and intensity’) boast 98-points from the critic. Up next with 97-points is 2012, which he called ‘a dynamic Champagne endowed with tremendous character’, and the ‘beautifully balanced, harmonious’ 2006. 

From Wine Advocate, the top-scoring Dom Pérignon vintages include 1996 (98 pts), 1961 (97 pts), and several vintages scoring 96 points, such as 2008, 2002, 2006, 1976, 1990, 1982, and 2012.

The best value Dom Pérignon on the market today

Dom Perignon prices

The 2004 and 2012 Dom Pérignon vintages are two of the most popular, not least because they offer great value in the context of other vintages. They are two of the most affordable on the market today, while also boasting high scores. The 2004 further benefits from additional time in bottle; however, these earlier vintages are often harder to source than the new releases.

Regardless of the vintage of choice, and whether for investment or collecting, Dom Pérignon remains the pinnacle of the Champagne world. Its strong branding, outstanding quality and investment performance make it a top choice for wine enthusiasts and investors alike.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The best of Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

Chateau Margaux Cellar
  • The best Bordeaux En Primeur releases offered a combination of quality and value. 
  • These are wines with high potential for future price appreciation.
  • Some châteaux have followed the En Primeur golden rule that the new release is the cheapest you can get. 

As this year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign draws to an end, we evaluate the best 2023 releases. These wines not only boast high quality, as measured by critic scores, but also offer value when compared to previous vintages. Below are our highlights from an investment perspective. 

Beychevelle 

Chateau Beychevelle En Primeur 2023

In the words of Château Beychevelle’s Philippe Blanc, ‘our golden rule is the En Primeur price is the cheapest you can get’. 

The rule was observed this year, with the 2023 representing the best priced vintage on the market today. 

The wine received 94-96 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous), who said: ‘Beychevelle remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Bordeaux. It is especially classy in this edition.’ 

Meanwhile, the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley (93-94 points) noted that ‘the 2023 Beychevelle has turned out especially well this year, exhibiting a more integrated, seductive style than recent vintages’.

Lafite Rothschild & Carruades de Lafite

Lafite Rothschild Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

For William Kelley, Lafite Rothschild appeared to be ‘the finest of the first growths this year’. The critic awarded it 97-99 points. The wine was launched at an impressive 32% discount on last year, making the new release the most affordable on the market today. Shortly after release, the wine found its way into the secondary market.

Carruades Lafite Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Its second wine also presented an enticing prospect to investors. As well as being the cheapest vintage, the wine was awarded a score of 91-93 from Neal Martin (Vinous), surpassing the 2022, 2016, and 2010. The critic remarked that this is ‘surely one of the best Carruades I have tasted at this stage’.

Mouton Rothschild & Petit Mouton

Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

In much the same vein as Lafite Rothschild, the 2023 Mouton Rothschild is the most affordable vintage available on the market today. Antonio Galloni gave it 96-99 points and declared that it ‘is shaping up to be one of the best wines of the vintage on the Left Bank’.

With 96-98 points from Neal Martin, its score looks set to match the 2022, 2020, 2019, and 2018. Only the 100-point 2016 has the upper hand but comes at a hefty 40% premium. 

Petit Mouton Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Once again, there is outstanding value to be found in the second wine. Petit Mouton 2023 is the best priced vintage available today by a healthy margin. And, according to Galloni, ‘it could easy be a Grand Vin at another address’.

Margaux

Chateau Margaux Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

The highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across major critics, Margaux presented great value.

Galloni awarded it a potentially perfect score of 97-100 points, calling it ‘fabulous, sensual, silky and exceptionally polished’. 

Meanwhile, Martin described it as a ‘quintessential Margaux’, awarding it a score of 97-99 points.

Cheval Blanc

Chateau Cheval Blanc Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

There are few wines that transcend the vintage in 2023, and Cheval Blanc is certainly one of them. 

There were few wines capable of transcending the vintage in 2023, but Cheval Blanc was certainly one of them.

It is the second-highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across 12 leading critics. Winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet even goes so far as to say that it is superior to the 2022, as does the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley. 

Adding to its appeal is the value it offers. The 2023 is the most affordable option among top vintages. This is one of only two unambiguously ‘prime’ Cheval Blanc vintages available under £5,000 a case.

As these highlights show, there is value to be found during En Primeur with the right analysis tools. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Piedmont on the move: rising stars under £1,000 a case

Piedmont Italy Fine Wine
  • Italy is the best-performing fine wine region year-to-date. 
  • Some Italian brands have recorded positive movement as high as 15% in the last six months.
  • Piedmont’s edge in the fine wine market can be attributed to historical significance, limited production, and an increase in global appreciation. 

Amid economic fluctuations and changing market trends, the wine investment landscape has seen varied performances across regions. However, Italy, and particularly the Piedmont, has stood out for its robustness and resilience, outperforming other regions in maintaining and even enhancing its investment appeal.

Italy’s performance in a bearish market

The Liv-ex Italy 100 sub-index, which tracks the price performance of the top 100 Italian wines, has shown resilience in the current bearish market. While the broader Liv-ex 1000 index, representing a wider range of global wines, has experienced a decline of 5.2% year-to-date, the Italy 100 sub-index has seen a relatively minor decrease of 1.7%. 

This indicates a sustained interest in Italian wines, despite broader market uncertainties. Some Italian brands have even recorded positive movement in the last six months as high as 15%.

The rising stars of Piedmont

A significant contribution to this trend comes from the Piedmont, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco. 

Produttori del Barbaresco, a renowned cooperative known for its high-quality production, has seen impressive gains across a range of its wines. The Rabaja Riserva has risen 15% since the start of the year. The wine has an average case price of £968 per 12×75, and a Wine Track critic score of 94 points. 

From the same producer, the more affordable Ovello Riserva is up 9%, while the Montestefano Riserva is up 8%. 

From Barolo, Cascina Fontana has shown consistent returns. It has appreciated 6% in the last six months and a remarkable 105% over the last decade. The wine’s affordability at £665 average price per case makes it a value-driven choice for investors.

Meanwhile, Elio Grasso’s Barolo Gavarini Chiniera has increased 4% in the past six months and an impressive 110% in the last decade. 

Why Italy, and why now?

The resilience of the Italian wine market, particularly in premium segments like Barolo and Barbaresco, can be attributed to several factors such as historical significance, quality, limited production, and growing global appreciation for the value on offer.

Wines from Piedmont are steeped in history and are globally recognised for their quality and complexity, attracting both connoisseurs and investors.

The limited production and exclusivity of certain labels ensure their demand remains high, even in less favourable economic conditions. While these wines are highly sought-after, the brands above continue to offer value – all being under £1,000 a case despite recent gains.

Finally, Italian wines continue to see growing appreciation in key markets such as the UK, USA and Asia, broadening the investor base.

As we navigate through fluctuating markets, Italy, especially Piedmont, holds firm, demonstrating potential for growth. For investors, Barolo and Barbaresco represent stability, quality, and a legacy that stands resilient against the tides of economic change.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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WineCap’s Head of Content named in Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30

Harper's Wine and Spirit 30 under 30 2024

Harpers Wine & Spirit‘s prestigious 30 under 30 list has been unveiled, showcasing the top talents in the UK wine trade. We are delighted to announce that our Head of Content, Desislava Lyapova, has been included in the rankings. 

The publication received over 100 nominations, ‘with each prospective star deserving recognition’ for their leadership, commitment, communication, innovation, and sustainability initiatives. Jo Gilbert of Harpers noted the industry’s challenges, highlighting the importance of the passion and talent that the nominees bring to their roles.

The judging panel is comprised of esteemed industry figures such as Katy Keating (Flint Wines), Kim Wilson (North South Wines), Michael Saunders (Coterie Holdings), Miles Beale (WSTA), Rachel Webster (WSET), Regine Lee MW (Indigo Wine), and Jo Gilbert (Harpers Wine & Spirit). To make the shortlist, the judges convened over two days in separate groups, with scores averaged out. 

Desislava Lyapova stood out as the only wine investment specialist on this year’s list. During her tenure at WineCap, Lyapova has significantly boosted subscriber numbers through her PR efforts and comprehensive research reports, including those focusing on wealth management in the UK and US.

Desislava Lyapova Harper's Wine and Spirit 30 under 30

On the announcement, Alexander Westgarth, CEO of WineCap, congratulated Lyapova on her achievement:

‘I want to give a huge congratulations to all the winners of the Harpers Wine & Spirit 30 under 30, especially our very own Desislava Lyapova. 

Desi has made a transformational impact at WineCap over the past two years. I can’t imagine anyone else who could have helped us achieve what she has. We are extremely proud to have Desi as a key member of our team.’

Before joining WineCap, Lyapova honed her skills as a Senior Writer at Liv-ex, the global marketplace for the wine trade. At WineCap, she has been pivotal in shaping the editorial direction, producing our Quarterly and Regional reports, leading En Primeur campaigns, and managing freelance and in-house teams, all the while enriching the content of the Academy and News sections.

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Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: an overview of the current campaign

Cos d'estournel bordeaux wines
  • Three weeks into the Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur campaign, we examine the pricing trends of the releases so far.
  • In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.
  • The Bordeaux 2023 vintage is characterised by diverse critic scores and some high achievers.

This year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign kicked off early and rapidly gained momentum. The first 2023 releases landed in the last week of April, shortly after trade professionals had returned from the region and before the publication of most critic reports.

Pricing, as always, remained a central issue. Questions arose about whether châteaux would consider the current market conditions, whether anticipated price reductions would drive interest, and ultimately, whether the Bordeaux 2023 vintage would prove a worthy investment.

Three weeks into the campaign, several major châteaux, including First Growths like Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, and Lafite Rothschild, have already launched their 2023 wines.

With most critic assessments now available and pricing trends becoming clearer, we delve into the details of the campaign so far.

Noteworthy releases

Château Léoville-Las Cases’ 2023 release marked a promising start to this year’s En Primeur. On April 30th, the wine was offered at a 40% discount on the previous year’s release. However, some older vintages still presented better value.

The first ‘great value’ release came from Château Lafite Rothschild in the same week. Its second wine, Carruades de Lafite, represented the lowest priced offering from the estate on the market today, playing on En Primeur’s original premise.

Similarly, Mouton Rothschild and Petit Mouton presented attractive opportunities for investors, released at 34.6% and 25.1% discounts on last year’s offerings respectively.

As a result, Liv-ex reported that both Château Lafite Rothschild 2023 and Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 have made their way onto the secondary market – although they have traded below their original release prices.

In many cases, the current price cuts have highlighted the steady ascent of En Primeur release pricing in recent years.

The average price cuts so far have been 21.5% compared to last year, with reductions ranging from 40% to none. Despite these cuts, many older vintages remain more affordable and often boast similar or better ratings, including those from 2019, 2017, and 2014.

Diverse scores and high achievers

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage has received a wide array of scores from leading critics, demonstrating a spectrum of quality across various appellations and estates.

Château Margaux consistently received high acclaim, with scores of 97-100 from both Antonio Galloni and William Kelley, and 99-100 from James Suckling. Neal Martin rated it as his second- highest wine of the vintage.

Another high achiever, Le Pin, received top marks with a perfect 100 from Peter Moser of Falstaff and 99-100 from Suckling. Château Montrose is also noteworthy, with a barrel range of 97-100 from Kelley and 99-100 from Suckling.

The critical consensus indicates a preference for wines from the Left Bank, which are noted to have fared better overall. The vintage is characterised by wines that lean towards a classic style, marked by their freshness and moderate alcohol content.

Despite the mixed nature of the vintage, there are several standout wines that show considerable promise. These wines are not only great for adding to a collection due to their potential to appreciate in value, but they also offer the kind of quality that makes them worth seeking out for those looking to enjoy fine wines in the years to come.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Jeb Dunnuck on Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Chateau Montrose 2023
  • According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’.
  • He described most wines as ‘ripe yet not massive with more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.
  • Château Montrose received his highest barrel range of 97-100 points.

According to Jeb Dunnuck, ‘2023 is a good to very good, but not a great year for Bordeaux’. In his latest report, the critic delves into the growing season that shaped the vintage, comparisons with previous years, the En Primeur tastings and the current market for buying the new releases. Below we summarise his key findings. 

A heterogeneous vintage

An erratic growing season led to a divergence of styles between sub-regions and even neighbouring châteaux. Bordeaux 2023 witnessed ‘an incredibly successful flowering, huge mildew pressure in the spring, a slightly uninspiring summer that lacked sunlight, sporadic and very localised storms, and a heatwave at the end of August and September that sped up ripening and, according to many, saved the vintage’.

In terms of vintage comparisons, ‘some of the wines have a certain 2019-like sunny, easygoing style, while others can have a cooler, more structured, almost austere profile similar to 2020’. The common themes, according to the critic, are the ‘fully ripe aromatics and more focused, linear profiles on the palate’.

A Left Bank vintage?

Jeb Dunnuck pointed out that ‘at a high level, the Merlot is much riper and more opulent, and the Cabernets are slightly fresher and vibrant’. He suggested that the Left Bank had the upper hand in 2023, saying that ‘while there are unquestionably impressive wines from the Right Bank, the top Médoc and Graves seem to have another level of harmony and overall balance’.

In terms of overall quality and style, Dunnuck argued that Bordeaux 2023 ‘surpasses 2014, 2017, and 2021 yet is a solid step back from the incredible trio of 2018 through 2020, and most likely will be surpassed by 2022 as well’.

Jeb Dunnuck’s favourite Bordeaux 2023 wines

Dunnuck found potential for perfection in three wines, awarding a barrel range of up to 100 points. Château Montrose got his highest score (97-100), and he noted that ‘it has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage’.

Among the First Growths, only Château Margaux came close to perfection, with the critic saying that ‘it is clearly one of the greats in the vintage, and it actually reminds me a touch of the 1996, if not better’.

Regarding the 2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Dunnuck remarked that ‘the overall balance paired with opulence here is something to behold, and it’s incredible to find this level of quality in the vintage’.

Jeb Dunnuck Bordeaux 2023

Should you buy Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur?

Dunnuck outlines four main reasons why you should buy a vintage En Primeur: ‘1) If it is a great vintage; 2) If the wines are expected to increase in price; 3) If quantities are limited; and 4) If you are buying wines in formats other than 750-milliliter bottles’.

He defined 2023 as a ‘a borderline case’. While ‘it’s not a truly great vintage […] there are a handful of gems in the vintage that will rival the best from 2016, 2018, 2019, and 2020,’ the critic said.

In terms of pricing, he observed that it seemed to ‘be coming back to 2019 levels’, still he reckoned that ‘the time of substantial early gains from purchasing En Primeur has largely sailed’.

Our En Primeur offers only highlight wines that present great value for money in the context of the market prices for vintages currently available on the market. These are wines that hold significant potential for future price appreciation, and where the scores match the price. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Mouton Rothschild 2023
  • According to Neal Martin (Vinous), Bordeaux 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage riddled with paradoxes.
  • Only one wine achieved his highest score of 98-100 points – L’Eglise Clinet.
  • Martin suggested that ‘deep [price] cuts’ are needed for the campaign to work.

 Now that the En Primeur campaign has kicked off, critics have started releasing their Bordeaux 2023 in-barrel scores. Vinous recently published Neal Martin’s assessment of this ‘Dalmatian’ vintage, characterised by ‘spots of astounding quality’ but also ‘all manner of shortcomings’ – even in some of the region’s most famous names.

Bordeaux 2023 vintage overview

‘A season riddled with paradoxes,’ Neal Martin described Bordeaux 2023 as a heterogeneous vintage. According to him, it ‘would sit uncomfortably on a mantelpiece alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022’. However, the critic acknowledged that ‘some châteaux pulled out magical wines from their top hat, surpassing those aforementioned years in one or two cases’.

The keyword that defined 2023 is ‘classicism’, meaning ‘lower alcohol levels in the 13-something range,’ without the opulence of previous vintages.

Martin further noted that ‘the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s’. He continued: ‘The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense’.

Overall, Martin claimed that ‘despite the disparity in quality, it cannot be denied that it is bejewelled with a clutch of spellbinding wines’.

Top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wines can be seen in the table below. Only one wine achieved the maximum barrel range of 98-100 points – the 2023 L’Eglise Clinet. Martin said that ‘it’s very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish’.

Three wines received a barrel range of 97-99 points: Margaux, Lafleur and Le Pin. In his tasting note, Martin called the First Growth a ‘quintessential Château Margaux’ but noted that it ‘will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of’.

Regarding Lafleur, he said it was ‘one of the few profound wines this vintage’. He described Le Pin as ‘so pure and refined, it seems to embrace and gently hug the senses’.

En Primeur and the global market

Despite the virtues of the vintage, the question of whether it will present value is pertinent in the current economic climate. For Martin, the ‘newborn wines blink open their eyes to survey a bleak economic landscape and finger-pointing between various factions as to who’s to blame’. He said that ‘deep cuts, not gestures, are the only thing that will open wallets’.

This week’s first releases have seen discounts of up to 40% on last year. However, back vintages of similar quality that remain available for less continue to challenge the En Primeur tradition.

Stay tuned for our analysis of the best value releases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

Bordeaux 2023
  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

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