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Bordeaux 2023: navigating climate challenges and market realities

Bordeaux 2023
  • The first Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur releases are expected next week.
  • According to early reports, 2023 is a heterogeneous vintage shaped by climate extremes.
  • The market expects lower release prices that last year, given the broader economic context.

The trade is now in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage En Primeur, and the first releases are expected already next week. The campaign is set to be fast-paced and shorter than usual, and the price forecasts suggest discounts of up to 30% year-on-year.

The vintage is shaping up to be one of measured optimism, tempered by both climate challenges and shifting market dynamics. In the following paragraphs, we delve into what we know so far in terms of quality, volumes and the broader context of Bordeaux 2023 in the global wine market.

A year of extremes

Weather patterns play a significant role in defining a vintage’s potential. According to Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay for the Drinks Business, 2023 was marked by uneven climatic conditions, with a particularly challenging start due to persistent rain and mildew threats. However, a shift in the latter half of the season brought drier, warmer conditions, providing a much-needed respite, and aiding in the maturation process. This dual phase growing season has resulted in a heterogeneous vintage that, while not exceptional, holds the promise of producing some truly outstanding wines.

Gavin Quinney’s comprehensive harvest report further underscores the impact of the weather, noting that despite the high mildew pressure similar to 2018, the consistent warmth towards the end of the season slightly tipped the scale towards better quality. The blend of early challenges and a fortuitous Indian summer echoes the sentiments of resilience and cautious optimism.

Bordeaux 2023 – quality and quantity

Major critics are yet to release their quality assessments after tasting in Bordeaux this month. Initial harvest reports suggest that 2023 is a good but not great year that may fall behind 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but above 2017 and 2021 in terms of quality.

Gavin Quinney wrote that ‘everything points to what might be called a ‘classic’ Bordeaux vintage, one where the better wines show fruit and finesse over structure, richness and power’. He further noted that 2023 was ‘a year for fraîcheur (freshness) and équilibre (balance), brought about by terroir, gentle extraction, slightly lower alcohol and bright acidity’.

However, the varied impact of climate conditions has led to heterogeneity in grape quality, particularly between those estates that successfully managed mildew and those that did not.

When it comes to volumes, the overall production in 2023 was 384 million litres, below 2022 (411) and slightly above 2021 (377). However, this is considerably lower than the annual average of 487 million litres of the previous decade (2011-2020).

And while yields for the most prestigious appellations were comparatively generous, the volume of wine that may come to the market En Primeur might not be. Liv-ex noted that ‘many estates are reducing the amount of wine offered En Primeur in favour of drip-feeding the market with more mature vintages’. The average stock reduction in the already low-quantity 2021 vintage, for instance, was 30%.

The Bordeaux market and the role of En Primeur

The Bordeaux market has witnessed significant fluctuations over the past few years. The Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index is down 13.8% in the past year, with many collectible wines seeing even sharper declines.

This trend underscores a shifting landscape where Bordeaux, despite maintaining a large share of the fine wine market, now competes more directly with other prestigious regions like Burgundy and the Napa Valley.

With the unfolding En Primeur tastings, the system itself faces scrutiny. Historically, En Primeur has offered an advantageous opportunity for all involved. While this system has benefited from ensuring early cash flow for producers and allowing buyers to secure potentially valuable wines at favourable prices, recent trends show a misalignment in pricing strategies. Recent back vintages are often available in the market at prices equal to or lower than release, raising questions about the future of the system.

Bordeaux 2023 – pricing and investment potential

Given the backdrop of a declining market and the historical data suggesting that many wines do not immediately appreciate in value post-release, pricing will be a crucial factor for the 2023 vintage. Industry insiders and potential investors will be looking closely at how châteaux price their offerings, seeking a balance between fair value and market dynamics. The hope is that producers will heed the market’s call for more reasonable pricing to reinvigorate interest in En Primeur purchases.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Burgundy 2022: a promising vintage in a challenging market

  • The 2022 vintage boasts high quality and quantity – ‘the largest crop in 23 years’.
  • It is being launched in a downward market, following ten months of consistent price declines.
  • As demand has tempered and stock has (re-)entered the market, the success of the upcoming releases will largely depend on pricing.

Burgundy’s 2022 vintage is being launched in a downward market, following ten months of consistent price declines. The success of the upcoming releases will largely depend on pricing, but will its quality and quantity have the potential to turn the tables?

Critical opinions on Burgundy 2022

Critic reports thus far have been overwhelmingly positive, applauding both the quality and the quantity of the vintage. 2022 marks the largest crop in 23 years, with some producers seeing double the yields of the previous year. According to Matthew Hayes (JancisRobinson.com), ‘across the whole of Burgundy, 2022 offered a whopping 75.4% more wine (red, white and crémant) compared with 2021’.

Contrary to expectations, the vintage produced wines with typicity, purity, and freshness despite the extreme weather. Hayes commented that ‘2022 was the second-hottest year that the Côte d’Or has endured this century and should logically have followed in the footsteps of the equally stifling solaire years of 2019 and 2020, producing wines with rich, deep fruit profiles and vibrant acidities to ensure long life but […] the wines show a generally impeccable balance of tidy, ripe fruit, discreet acidity and equally (and mostly) refined tannins’.

Hayes revealed that ‘the best-sited and best-rooted vines appeared to have coped well with the heat and in the Côte d’Or the excellence of the top premiers and grands crus shines clearly’.

The prevailing opinion is that 2022 is an excellent year for white wines, reminiscent of 2017 and 2020. Meanwhile, tasting notes from the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits highlighted dense red wines with well-integrated tannins, simultaneously offering elegance and concentration. The wines are expected to be approachable in youth but with significant ageing potential.

However, the market onto which they are released is just as important as the releases themselves.

The current market for Burgundy

In October 2022, the Liv-ex Burgundy 150 index reached an unprecedented peak, marking a staggering 809.4% increase since its inception in December 2003. Twenty years later, Burgundy remains the best-performing fine wine region.

However, since its peak, prices have tumbled 17.4%. This decline has been attributed to various macroeconomic factors that led to a shift in investor sentiment. As the economic landscape became more uncertain, fine wine buyers have grown increasingly risk-averse, causing a contraction in demand for more volatile investments.

This trend was particularly pronounced in Burgundy, which had soared too high across the whole spectrum. At these stratospheric prices, the market saw more sellers than buyers, with investors keen to liquidate their stock. Top-tier Burgundy (re-)entered the market as sellers were looking to make gains.

This perception of increased risk and a preference for stability among investors led to a decrease in Burgundy’s trade share by value. The falling prices further exacerbated this trend.

Burgundy fine wine prices

The market conditions present a challenging backdrop for the high-quality high-quantity Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign. Will the excitement of the new be enough to stimulate demand?

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The role of wine ratings in fine wine investment

  • Wine ratings play a crucial role in wine investment, with high scores from influential critics impacting demand and market value.
  • To use ratings effectively, investors should consider both the initial score and potential for growth.
  • The Wine Track score provides a broader view of a wine’s quality across multiple vintages and publications, helping investors assess wines at a glance.

For many investors, fine wine offers a fascinating, enjoyable, and potentially profitable venture. However, the wine market is highly nuanced, requiring a keen understanding of various factors influencing wine values. One such factor, critical to successful wine investment, is the wine rating system. This score, given by wine critics to a particular bottle or vintage, can dramatically impact its market value and demand.

Wine ratings, typically on a 100-point scale, offer a quantitative measure of the wine’s quality. The ratings of influential critics such as Robert Parker, Neal Martin and Wine Spectator can have a significant impact on the market value of a wine. This is why savvy investors pay close attention to these scores, as they can quickly identify high potential investments.

The power and influence of ratings

However, it’s not enough to simply buy wines with high ratings. The rating system is far more nuanced, with the potential for dramatic shifts in a wine’s rating over time. A wine may be rated in its youth, then again as it matures. In some cases, a wine’s rating may increase as it develops, making it an excellent investment if purchased early. Conversely, a wine that doesn’t mature as expected can see its rating (and value) drop.

How critics have moved the wine market

Some historical examples illustrate the power that critics wield in the wine investment market:

  • Robert Parker and the 1982 Bordeaux vintage: Parker’s high scores for the 1982 Bordeaux wines went against the grain of other critics, and as the wines matured and proved him right, their market values soared.
  • James Suckling and Super Tuscan wines: Suckling’s high scores and positive reviews in the 1980s and 90s for these non-traditional Italian wines helped elevate their status and market prices.
  • Jancis Robinson and Austrian wines: Robinson’s praise for the quality and complexity of wines from Austria increased their international profile and market value.
  • Robert Parker and Napa Valley: Parker’s positive reviews of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends in the 1990s contributed to increased demand and higher prices for these wines.
  • Wines Spectator’s Wine of the Year: Wine Spectator, one of the most influential wine publications globally, selects its “Wine of the Year” based on quality, value, availability, and an X-factor they call “excitement.” The wine usually becomes a hot commodity in the secondary market, breaking all-time trading record within the day of the announcement, like Marques Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 in 2020.

Knowing the critics and selling wine

To use ratings effectively, investors should consider both the initial score and potential for growth. Some wines, especially those from renowned producers in prestigious regions like Bordeaux or Burgundy, are consistently well-rated and have a history of aging well. However, there are also opportunities to find “sleeper” wines – those with moderate initial ratings that improve significantly over time.

A key part of understanding and using wine ratings is understanding the critics. Each has a different palate and preference, and their ratings reflect these tastes. Robert Parker, for instance, was known for favouring bold, robust wines from Bordeaux, California, and the Rhône. However, since Parker’s retirement, the wine criticism landscape has been undergoing a gradual shift, reflecting changing consumer preferences and a growing appreciation for diversity in wine styles, such as lighter and lower-alcohol wines.

The Wine Track score – ratings at a glance

Now it is also possible to access a brand’s average score thanks to the Wine Track score. The Wine Track score provides a broader view of a wine’s quality across multiple vintages, which can be particularly useful for potential investors seeking a more comprehensive evaluation of a wine’s investment potential.

It aggregates multiple wine vintages of a wine to create a score out of 100. It unifies more than 100 wine critics’ scores from 12 global publications that use different methodologies. By providing a combined score, it helps investors assess wines on the fine wine market at a glance.

In conclusion, while wine ratings are not the sole determinant of a wine’s investment potential, they play an integral part in the wine investment strategy. With careful consideration and a well-rounded understanding of the wine market, investors can utilise these ratings to guide their purchases and optimise their portfolios.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.