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Bordeaux | Regional Report

Bordeaux has long been the most important fine wine region in the world. Its rich heritage, high-quality production, and unmatched ability to cultivate globally-recognised brands have all cemented its position at the pinnacle of the fine wine world. Already in 1787, Thomas Jefferson noted the collectible potential of the region’s top wines.

Bordeaux is, thus, naturally the cornerstone of the wine investment market as we know it today. At its peak in 2010, Bordeaux accounted for a staggering 96% of the fine wine market by value. The First Growths – Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild – drove the lion’s share of that dominance.

Despite the recent broadening of the market, Bordeaux remains the most influential player, with its performance often setting the tone for global fine wine investment.

Our Bordeaux Report delves into the fundamentals of this fascinating region, including the evolution of its investment market, historic performance, and key players.

Discover more about:

  • The First Growths and their second wines
  • En Primeur 
  • Bordeaux’s key appellations
  • Bordeaux’s future in a diversified market
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The evolution of Bordeaux’s vineyard prices: what’s behind the price tag?

  • Vineyard prices in Pauillac have risen over 700% in the last 30 years.  
  • Sauternes has faced a 90% decline during the same period. 
  • Pomerol has significantly outpaced Saint-Émilion, partly due to its compact size and luxury appeal.

The American Association of Wine Economists has released data on the evolution of Bordeaux vineyard prices from 1991 to 2023. Over this period, Bordeaux has become the centrepiece of a thriving, regulated wine investment market.

Global demand for Bordeaux wines has fueled remarkable growth, with top estates achieving iconic status as luxury brands. A 2011 valuation revealed that over 50 of Bordeaux’s leading châteaux belong to the €50 million club, with a combined market value exceeding €15 billion.

In the past two decades, Bordeaux fine wine prices have risen by an average of 200%, accompanied by significant increases in vineyard prices in its most sought-after appellations.

This article delves into the shifting dynamics of Bordeaux’s wine industry, examining their impact on vineyard prices and the contrasting trajectories of key sub-regions like Pauillac, Sauternes, Pomerol, and Saint-Émilion.

 American Association of Wine Economists Bordeaux vineyard prices

Pauillac’s extraordinary growth

Pauillac’s vineyard prices have experienced extraordinary growth over the past three decades, surging by 700.6% from €374,700 per hectare in 1991 to €3 million in 2023. The region is home to the First Growths Lafite Rothschild, Latour, and Mouton Rothschild.

When compared to other regions, Pauillac’s relatively small size – spanning approximately 1,200 hectares under vine – is a key factor contributing to its high vineyard prices. This limited vineyard area, combined with the prestige of its châteaux, creates a scarcity effect that drives up demand and valuation. Despite its compact footprint, Pauillac has managed to consistently dominate the fine wine market.

The rise of Pauillac aligns with the global increase in demand for fine Bordeaux wines, particularly during the 2000s and early 2010s, when new markets like China became major consumers. However, this growth has slowed in recent years. This could stem from market saturation, with collectors shifting their attention to other Bordeaux appellations or entirely different regions such as Burgundy and Champagne. 

The decline of Sauternes

In stark contrast to Pauillac, Sauternes has suffered a decline, losing nearly 90% of its vineyard value since 1991. Once valued at €293,000 per hectare – higher than Saint-Émilion at the time – Sauternes vineyards are now priced at around €30,000 per hectare, according to AAWE. This fall can largely be attributed to waning consumer interest in sweet wines.

The production costs associated with Sauternes, which involve the labour-intensive process of harvesting botrytised (noble rot) grapes further compound the issue. While top producers like Château d’Yquem continue to uphold the region’s reputation, the broader market for Sauternes is facing challenges due to changing consumer preferences.

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion: a tale of two trajectories

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion present an interesting comparison, with Pomerol emerging as a high-growth luxury niche and Saint-Émilion maintaining steady performance. From 1991 to 2023, Pomerol vineyard prices rose by 213.4%, reaching €2 million per hectare, while Saint-Émilion saw only a modest 14.7% increase to €300,000 per hectare. These differences can be explained by several key factors.

  1. Size and scale

Saint-Émilion spans a vast 5,400 hectares, compared to Pomerol’s much smaller 800 hectares. This sheer scale means Saint-Émilion includes a wide range of producers, from elite châteaux like Cheval Blanc and Ausone to lesser-known estates producing more affordable wines. In contrast, Pomerol’s compact size results in a higher concentration of prestigious vineyards, with fewer smaller players to dilute its overall market perception.

  1. Classification systems

Saint-Émilion’s classification system – updated every decade – categorises its estates into tiers such as Premier Grand Cru Classé A and B, and Grand Cru Classé. However, the frequent use of the “Grand Cru” designation (applied to over 60% of the region’s wines) might work against it, and partly diminish the exclusivity of this title.

Conversely, Pomerol lacks any formal classification system, allowing individual estates like Pétrus and Le Pin to dominate through their reputations alone. This lack of stratification has paradoxically bolstered the region’s image as a luxury appellation. Its reputation as a source of small-production, Merlot-dominant wines has further cemented its status as a ‘cult’ appellation among collectors and investors. 

  1. Smaller players and price dilution

Saint-Émilion’s large number of smaller, lesser-known producers contributes to its lower average vineyard price. These producers often operate outside the Grand Cru Classé system, pulling down the overall valuation of the region. In Pomerol, the scarcity of vineyards and the dominance of high-profile estates create a ‘halo effect’ that supports consistently high valuations, even for lesser-known properties.

Implications for the wine investment market

The contrasting trajectories of Bordeaux’s appellations highlight the complexity of the fine wine investment market. Pauillac’s recent plateau demonstrates that even the most prestigious regions are not immune to market saturation, while Pomerol’s steady growth underscores the enduring appeal of scarcity and exclusivity. In contrast, Sauternes illustrates the vulnerability of regions reliant on shifting consumer preferences. However, renewed efforts by producers to embrace sustainability, innovation, and rebranding may help revive interest in sweet wines and mitigate some of these challenges.

Despite fluctuations, Bordeaux’s iconic estates and global reputation remain a cornerstone of the fine wine market. For investors and collectors, navigating the nuanced landscape of vineyard prices and evolving market dynamics will be crucial to securing long-term success in this ever-changing industry.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today

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Older vintages dominate 2024’s best-performing wines

  • The biggest price risers in 2024 reveal a strong preference for older vintages.
  • The best-performing wine came from the Rhône, having risen 80.5% in value year-to-date.
  • Tuscany, Ribera del Duero, Bordeaux and Sauternes also featured in the rankings.

The biggest price risers in 2024 reveal a strong preference for older vintages, underlining the importance of time in achieving wine investment returns.  

The Rhône leads performance

Although Rhône prices declined 9.9% on average this year, the region gave rise to some of the best-performing wines.

Domaine Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée Rouge 2013 led the charge with an impressive 80.5% rise. Other regional standouts, including Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2014 (61.2%) and Château de Beaucastel Rouge 2013 (31.1%), highlighted the enduring demand for Châteauneuf-du-Pape from highly rated mature vintages.

Highlights from Spain and Italy

While the Rhône claims several top spots, other regions also showcase the profitability of mature vintages. From Spain, the 2010 Vega Sicilia Unico achieved a notable 24.9% increase. Known for its high quality and limited production, Vega Sicilia continues to represent Spanish winemaking at its finest, cementing its status as a blue-chip investment wine.

Italy made a strong appearance with the 2014 Fontodi Flaccianello delle Pieve, which has risen 6.8% in value. This Tuscan gem, crafted from 100% Sangiovese, reflects the growing international appeal of Italy’s finest wines. Collectors are increasingly drawn to Italy not only for its iconic producers but also for its remarkable balance of accessibility and age-worthiness.

Top performing wines of 2024

Bordeaux’s resilience

No fine wine discussion is complete without Bordeaux, and 2024 is no exception. While price growth among Bordeaux wines in this dataset may be more modest, the region’s consistency remains its hallmark. The 2013 Ducru-Beaucaillou saw a solid 19.2% increase, while the 2012 Chateau L’Eglise-Clinet also featured among the top performers. 

Two Château Rieussec vintages, the 2015 and 2014, reflected Sauternes’ consistent market performance, although the category is often overlooked.

The allure of maturity

The unifying thread across these top-performing wines is their maturity. Each wine has benefited from time in the bottle, allowing its market value to increase. Mature vintages offer an enticing combination of drinking pleasure and investment potential, a dual appeal that drives demand among collectors and investors alike.

This preference for older wines reflects a broader trend within the fine wine market: a growing appreciation for provenance and readiness to drink. As global markets for fine wine continue to mature, buyers are prioritising wines with a proven track record, both in terms of quality and price appreciation.

What this means for investors

The list of the best-performing wines of 2024 shows the importance of patience and long-term approach when it comes to investing. Additionally, diversification across regions and styles can help mitigate risk and enhance returns.

The performance of these wines provides a clear takeaway: older vintages remain at the forefront of the fine wine market. 

For more read our latest report “Opportunities in uncertainty: the 2024 fine wine market and 2025 outlook”.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Mouton Rothschild: 2022 label and market performance

  • The 2022 Mouton Rothschild label has been revealed. 
  • Mouton Rothschild is the best performing First Growth over the last decade. 
  • The wine has also outperformed the Liv-ex 100 and Bordeaux 500 indices.

Unveiling the 2022 label

Bordeaux First Growth Château Mouton Rothschild revealed its 2022 label design on December 1st.  Created by French artist Gérard Garouste, the original artwork commemorates the 100th anniversary of Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s leadership at the family estate. 

The label showcases the château’s iconic front wall and a grapevine, elegantly framed by a portrait of Philippe de Rothschild and a ram, his signature emblem.

The tradition of artist-designed labels began in 1945, when Baron Philippe de Rothschild marked the end of World War II with a special artwork featuring a ‘V’ for victory, designed by Philippe Jullian.

As previously explored, this practice has significantly enhanced Mouton Rothschild’s collectability, and the wine’s value has typically risen in the month following the label reveal. 

Mouton Rothschild 2022 wine bottle label

Mouton Rothschild: ahead of the pack

While the artist designed labels alone are not the key drivers of Mouton Rothschild’s investment performance, the wine does lead the way among its peers. It is the best performing First Growth over the last decade. 

Mouton Rothschild prices have risen 50.3%, compared to 42.3% for Margaux and 36.9% for Haut-Brion. Both Lafite Rothschild and Latour have increased by close to 30% over the same period.

Bordeaux First Growths Wine chart

From the market’s low in June 2014 to its peak in September 2022, Mouton Rothschild recorded a 76% increase. It was the first First Growth to recover from the correction following the China-driven wine boom. 

During the recent market downturn, Mouton Rothschild has exhibited relative resilience. Prices have fallen 13.8% since its peak. Only Haut-Brion has seen a smaller decline of 13.1%. The biggest faller has been Lafite Rothschild, down 22.8% since September 2022. 

Mouton Rothschild and the broader market

Mouton Rothschild is also nicely positioned in the broader wine investment market. It has outperformed the industry benchmark, the Liv-ex 100 index, which is up 40.9% over ten years. It has also fared better than the Liv-ex 50 (17.5%), which tracks the price movements of the First Growths, and the broader Bordeaux 500 index (27.8%).

Mouton Rothschild performance

Mouton Rothschild has demonstrated consistent strength in the fine wine market, supported by its established history and strategic positioning. The estate’s practice of commissioning artist-designed labels has enhanced its collectability, strengthened by its reputation for quality.

The release of the 2022 label marks another milestone in the estate’s history. Mouton Rothschild’s performance, both in terms of relative resilience during market downturns and long-term growth, highlights its role as a reliable component in a well-diversified wine investment portfolio.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines from the Southwold tasting

  • Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 from the annual Southwold tasting.
  • Martin placed the 2020 vintage ahead of the 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022.
  • With 99 points, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was Martin’s top-scoring wine. 

The annual Southwold tasting presents major critics with the opportunity to blind taste a Bordeaux vintage four years on in peer groups, mostly within appellations. 

Last week, Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 – a vintage ‘born in a tumultuous world,’ due to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, the critic argued that it bestowed ‘Bordeaux-lovers with a bevy of outstanding wines that should stand the test of time.’ 

Neal Martin’s thoughts on Bordeaux 2020

Martin described the dry whites as a ‘little hit-and-miss’ and the Sauternes as ‘very good rather than excellent.’ When it comes to the reds, however, the critic said that they ‘are going to give a great deal of pleasure.’

In terms of vintage comparisons, Martin placed 2020 ahead of 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022, which were more ‘crammed with legends in the making’. He wrote: ‘Perhaps 2020 doesn’t quite possess the vaulting ambition of those two vintages, though in some cases, it surpasses the best of both.’

His favourite appellation was Saint-Julien, which ‘raised the bar with a cluster of outstanding wines.’ The critic argued that this flight ‘solidified 2020 as a bona fide great vintage on the Left Bank.’ He described Margaux as ‘solid,’ with the ‘real superstar’ being the First Growth.

From Saint-Estèphe, Martin highlighted Montrose as ‘the standout of the appellation,’ with the biggest surprise being the 2020 Phélan Ségur, ‘one of the best values given its reasonable price.’

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines

Due to the nature of the Southwold blind tasting – wines grouped by appellation – Martin’s scores were ‘a little lower than when [he] encountered these wines at the end of 2022’.

His top-scoring wine, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, received 99 points. He described it as ‘a fabulous Pauillac that flirts with perfection.’ 

The rest of the wines in the top ten received 98 points. The highest-scored First Growth was Margaux, which the critic claimed was ‘among the greatest wines of the 2020 vintage.’ The ‘captivating’ and ‘mesmerising’ Cheval Blanc also scored among the best wines from the vintage. So did Trotanoy (‘an outstanding Pomerol’), and Canon (‘God made wine so it can taste as good as this’).

Investing in Bordeaux 2020

All of Martin’s top 2020 wines have fallen in value since release, apart from Trotanoy. 

This is partly because of the overall market direction in the last two years, but also due to the availability of older and in some cases higher-rated vintages available at a discount.

As Martin rightly noted, ‘the top wines in this report not only compete against each other, but also with themselves in terms of alternative available vintages.’

The lower-than-average prices at the moment, however, present great buying opportunities, especially for brands with a positive long-term performance. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Bordeaux correction: top wines 20% below their peak

  • Top Bordeaux labels are now approximately 20% below their peaks achieved during the last decade.
  • Lafite Rothschild has been the hardest hit, driven lower by classic vintages such as 2018, 2009 and 2000. 
  • The recent fall in prices has brought many labels back to levels not seen in years.

As recently explored, the fine wine market has been on a downward trend, but what does this mean for individual labels? Today, we turn to Bordeaux’s top names, examining the recent performance of some of the most investable wines in the world.

Bordeaux after the peak

Top Bordeaux labels are now approximately 20% below their peaks, achieved during the last decade. 

Bordeaux wine indices

The First Growths, which often serve as the barometers of the fine wine market, had been riding high, with September 2022 marking a peak in pricing for Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild and Margaux. 

However, since then, the landscape has changed dramatically. Lafite Rothschild, once the shining star, has fallen by 28.6%, the most severe decline among the top names. Margaux and Mouton Rothschild have also taken significant hits, falling by 17.1% and 17.5%, respectively.

On the Right Bank, the situation is no different. Petrus, which peaked in December 2022, has since dropped by 21.4%, while Le Pin, which reached its high in February 2023, has declined by 20.3%. These losses have brought prices to levels last seen several years ago.

First Growths peaked in September 2022, since then:

  • Lafite is down 28.6% 
  • Mouton is down 17.5% 
  • Margaux is down 17.1% 

On the Right Bank:

  • Petrus is down 21.4% since its December 2022 peak
  • Le Pin is down 20.3% since its February 2023 peak

The Lafite fall: a deep dive

Lafite Rothschild – the second most-searched-for wine on Wine-Searcher – has seen the steepest decline since its peak, with prices plummeting 28.6% on average.

Which vintages have contributed to its fall over the last two years? The 2018 (WA 100 points) has been the hardest hit, down 35.9%. The wine was originally released at levels akin to the brand’s bull years, due to high critic scores, but failed to offer the best investment value. The recent price adjustment has made it a more attractive proposition. 

Older vintages that have had more time to grow have similarly fallen in value by over 30%. The classic 2009 Lafite, which boasts 99+ points from Robert Parker himself, is down 31.1% over the last two years. 

The millenial vintage, with a drinking window that extends well into the 2050s, is currently 32.6% below its peak. 

Lafite Rothschild wine vintages performance

Buying levels: back to the square one

The recent fall in prices has brought many labels back to levels not seen in years. Lafite, for example, has returned to its 2016 pricing levels, while Margaux and Mouton are back to 2020. On the Right Bank, Petrus and Le Pin have both returned to their 2021 levels.

While this might raise concerns on the surface, it presents a compelling opportunity. The scale of the correction suggests that Bordeaux wines, while still highly valued, may have been oversold in the last 18 months. 

For those looking to enter or expand their portfolios, this could represent a chance to acquire top-tier wines at a significant discount before prices start to rise again.

As with previous corrections, price declines are often followed by periods of recovery. For wealth managers and clients with a long-term investment horizon, the current situation may be seen as a momentary blip in an otherwise upward trajectory.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Q3 2024 Fine Wine Report

The fine wine market continued its downward trend throughout Q3 2024, but there are reasons for cautious optimism. Our Q3 2024 Fine Wine Report highlights the main themes that shaped the market, from regional performance to specific brand successes, and provides an outlook for the remainder of the year.

Executive summary

  • Since October 2022, fine wine prices have been in consistent decline, with a 4% drop on average in Q3 2024.
  • Bordeaux experienced the steepest fall at 4.4%, while Champagne defied the trend with a modest 0.4% increase last quarter.
  • Steady demand for fine wine continues to suggest a price recovery on the horizon.
  • Certain brands have outperformed the market, including Ruinart, Taittinger, and Château de Beaucastel.
  • Krug Vintage Brut 2004 has been the best-performing wine year-to-date, up 21.6%.
  • This year has already seen several broken auction records, including for high-profile Burgundy, which points to continued interest in fine wine.
  • Nine wines received perfect 100-point scores by Jane Anson in her recent Bordeaux 2009 and 2010 vintage retrospective.
  • France’s 2024 harvest is projected to be down 22% compared to last year, and 15% below the five-year average.
  • Looking ahead to Q4 2024, the market continues to present attractive buying opportunities, especially for investors with a long-term vision.

The trends that shaped the fine wine market

Global market recovery driven by rate cuts

In Q3 2024, global markets showed signs of recovery, bolstered by central banks pivoting towards interest rate cuts as inflation began to ease. Following turbulence in early August, stock markets rebounded, setting new records by the end of the quarter. Central banks, including the US Federal Reserve, the European Central Bank (ECB), and the Bank of England, all shifted their focus from inflation control to stimulating economic growth. The Fed’s September rate cut – the first since 2020 – catalysed a surge in US stocks, and similar moves from other central banks supported this global rebound. Despite lingering concerns about a potential US recession and Japanese market volatility, the overall global outlook improved, with lower rates and better economic conditions presenting growth opportunities.

Fine wine prices fall 4% in Q3

In contrast to the broader economic recovery, the fine wine market remained bearish, with a 4% average drop in prices in Q3. The Liv-ex 100 index saw its steepest fall of the year, down 1.7% in October. Bordeaux led the decline, with a 4.4% drop, although there was a slight uptick in Sauternes prices. Champagne offered a bright spot, rising 0.4% last quarter, with brands like Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Taittinger posting strong returns (over 30% in the last six months). This mixed performance underscores the complexity of the fine wine market, where price movements can vary widely by region and brand.

New fine wine releases beyond Bordeaux

As always, autumn brought the highly anticipated La Place de Bordeaux campaign, with major New World brands such as Almaviva, Seña, and Penfolds Grange releasing their latest vintages. However, this year’s campaign fell flat, with many new releases priced similarly to last year, despite older vintages showing better value and investment potential due to price corrections. Investors may find more favourable opportunities in back vintages that boast higher critic scores at lower prices.

Regional fine wine performance in Q3

The fine wine market has now returned to its 2021 levels, with prices declining across most regions in Q3 2024, except for Champagne, which recorded a modest 0.4% increase.

Bordeaux experienced the most significant drop, falling 4.4%, driven down primarily by the Second Wine 50 index, which plunged 6.6%, and the Right Bank 50 index, down 4.6%. Many wines from the 2019 vintage, which had previously appreciated in value, have now returned to their original release prices.

Despite this trend, Bordeaux is enjoying steady market demand, taking over a third of the market by value. Moreover, Jane Anson recently revisited the 2009 and 2010 vintages, awarding nine wines 100 points – a move likely to stimulate demand and prices.

When it comes to other regions, Italy and Burgundy also saw a 2% drop in Q3. The Rhône was somewhat more resilient, experiencing a smaller decrease of 0.8%.

The best-performing wines

While the broader market continues to face challenges, certain wines buck the trend, reinforcing the importance of strategic, brand-specific investment decisions.

In Q3 2024, some brands have delivered exceptional returns. The table below showcases the best-performing wines year-to-date, with regions like Tuscany and the Rhône dominating the list.

Leading the pack is Krug 2004, which saw an impressive rise of 21.6%, reflecting the continued strength of Champagne in the investment market. Earlier this year, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) rescored the wine, giving it 98 points. He described it as a ‘gorgeous Champagne that is just beginning to enter its first plateau of maturity’.

Close behind is Domaine du Pégau’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2012, which appreciated by 21.2%. Sassicaia 2011 follows with a 21% increase, while its 2015 vintage takes the tenth spot, with a 12.1% rise.

Vega Sicilia Único also features twice with its 2010 and 2011 vintages, demonstrating the increased demand for Spanish wines.

Wines from Bordeaux and the Rhône also make the list, showcasing the diversity of the wine investment market.

The most expensive wines in 2024

The world’s most expensive wines in 2024 are overwhelmingly dominated by Burgundy. At the top of the list is Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, with an average price of £221,233 per case. Following closely is Domaine d’Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, priced at £204,328.

Other notable entries include:

  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru at £141,979.
  • Liber Pater, from Bordeaux, priced at £140,009, stands out as the only non-Burgundy wine in the list.
  • Domaine Leroy, Richebourg Grand Cru, valued at £120,007, further establishes Burgundy’s dominance as a highly collectible wine region.

Burgundy producers such as Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay appear multiple times on the list. The trend reflects how scarcity, reputation, and critical acclaim are key drivers of value, especially as the market for fine wine becomes increasingly selective in uncertain economic times.

Further entries include:

  • Domaine Leroy, Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru at £103,844.
  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru at £93,818.
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Montrachet Grand Cru at £89,529.
  • Domaine Leroy, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru at £81,827.
  • Domaine d’Auvenay, Meursault Premier Cru, Les Gouttes d’Or at £80,715.

This dominance by Burgundy reflects its unmatched status in the global wine market, where scarcity and consistent quality continue to command premium prices.

For more information, visit Wine Track.

Fine wine news

The autumn La Place de Bordeaux release campaign

The 2024 La Place de Bordeaux campaign saw the latest releases from Masseto, Solaia, Seña, Penfolds Grange and many more. However, many of these new vintages were released at the same or slightly higher price levels as last year, despite a general market decline, making them less attractive from an investment perspective.

For instance, Masseto 2021 received a perfect 100-point score from Antonio Galloni but was priced at the same level as last year, with back vintages such as 2017, 2018 and 2019 offering better value. Meanwhile, the 100-point Solaia 2021 was released at a 15.7% premium on the 2020 vintage.

From Chile, the 2022 Seña and Viñedo Chadwick were offered at last year’s prices, but older, higher-scoring vintages such as Seña 2019 and Viñedo Chadwick 2021 remain more affordable. Penfolds Grange 2020 saw a small price increase, yet back vintages like the 100-point 2013 offer greater investment potential. Overall, back vintages, with comparable or higher critic scores, often provide better value for investors looking to capitalise on the current market dip.

Historically low yields in France

The 2024 French wine harvest is projected to be one of the smallest in recent history, with regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux experiencing significant declines due to adverse weather conditions.

Burgundy’s output is projected to be down by 25% compared to 2023, while Bordeaux is facing a 10% drop, resulting in the region’s lowest production volume since 2017.

Historically, such scarcity in Burgundy has driven secondary market price increases, as collectors rush to secure rare wines. However, the economic downturn may temper this trend, making selectivity key for investors. In Bordeaux, while smaller harvests often support price stability for premium wines, the broader market conditions may limit price recoveries, especially for mid-tier labels.

Q4 2024 market outlook

The consistent decline in fine wine prices leaves many wondering when the market will stabilise. Despite this downward trend, several factors point toward potential recovery and attractive buying opportunities in Q4.

Firstly, strong demand for select wines persists, particularly for brands that continue to outperform the market. This year has already seen several broken auction records, including for high-profile Burgundy, which points to continued interest in fine wine.

While the market as a whole is facing challenges, strategic investment in the right wines can still yield impressive returns. Investors looking to capitalise on market lows should consider brands which have consistently shown growth despite broader regional declines.

The global economic backdrop also provides reasons for optimism. Central banks, led by the US Federal Reserve, have shifted towards interest rate cuts which could stimulate further investment in alternative assets like fine wine.

In terms of regional performance, the ongoing declines in key regions may start to stabilise, as already seen in Champagne. Despite a 4.4% drop in Q3, Bordeaux remains a dominant player with one-third of the market share by value. With critics such as Jane Anson awarding nine perfect 100-point scores to Bordeaux wines from the 2009 and 2010 vintages, we may see renewed interest in classic vintages.

In summary, Q4 2024 offers a unique window of opportunity for long-term investors. With the current decline, strategic investments in high-performing brands and undervalued vintages could offer substantial returns on the road to recovery.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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What to expect from the 2024 La Place de Bordeaux campaign?

  • La Place de Bordeaux’s autumn campaign continues to expand, with new entries from Germany, France and the rest of the world.
  • The network offers producers logistics expertise and knowledge of the world’s fine wine markets.
  • Some of the top brands that enjoy sustained demand every year include Californian cult wines Opus One and Promontory, and the Super Tuscans Solaia and Masseto.

Following a mixed 2023 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, which saw many châteaux lowering their prices compared to last year, this autumn will see the annual hors Bordeaux La Place campaign.

As the market for Bordeaux narrows, the system, originally designed purely to sell the wines from the region, continues to expand. However, it’s essential to recognise the challenges that lie ahead.

Current market sentiment

The fine wine market is currently navigating through a period of uncertainty. Economic downturns in key markets like China, where Bordeaux sales have plummeted by two-thirds since their peak in 2017, and the looming threat of a recession in the US, have created a cautious environment. This has significantly impacted confidence in the market, with many stakeholders bracing for a potentially attritional campaign this autumn.

Continued expansion of La Place de Bordeaux

For new producers, the benefits of joining the La Place distribution network are manifold. As Areni put it in a recent article, ‘La Place offers fine wine producers something remarkable: a depth and breadth of fine wine expertise, coupled with a fine-grained knowledge of the world’s fine wine markets and plenty of logistics expertise. La Place also offers prestige, making it highly attractive to many of the world’s fine wine producers’.

According to Mathieu Chadronnier, president of Bordeaux négociant CVBG, ‘We will see more wines from beyond Bordeaux come to La Place. That trend is not going anywhere because the fundamental rationale that fine wine is one single category that embraces regions and countries of origin remains.’

This shift is particularly significant in light of the current market conditions. As Bordeaux faces challenges, the inclusion of international wines has become more crucial, providing a broader range of offerings and catering to an increasingly global market.

New entries on La Place

Ernst Loosen, the renowned Mosel-based producer, is entering La Place for the first time this year with a limited-production wine, Weingut Dr. Loosen, Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben.

Meanwhile, Rheingau Riesling producer Schloss Johannisberg is advancing its strategy to expand the global reach of its premium Rieslings. This autumn, they will introduce Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Goldlack and Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Orangelack Kabinett to a broader international audience using the network’s global reach.

Additionally, Maison Georges Vigouroux will release the first Malbec from Cahors – Château de Haute-Serre Grand Malbec 2022 – through La Place de Bordeaux. This marks the first global ‘icon’ wine from the appellation since phylloxera nearly eradicated the grape variety in France almost 200 years ago.

Top brands to watch

The coming weeks will see the release of the latest vintage from some of the hottest brands, including the Super Tuscans Solaia, Masseto and Bibi Graetz, Californian cult wine Opus One joined by estates such as Inglenook, Joseph Phelps and Promontory, the Chilean Almaviva, Viñedo Chadwick and Viña Seña.

From Australia, Wynns will release the 2021 John Riddoch, Cloudburst its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Malbec 2021, Jim Barry ‘The Armagh’ Shiraz 2021, and Penfolds Bin 169 2022.

France will also see the release of the 2022 vintage of Le Petit Cheval Blanc, Y de Yquem and Château de Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015, and Latour 2009.

The table below shows the performance and price points of some of the top brands released via La Place de Bordeaux every autumn.

La Place brands

Long-term prospects

Although prices for all these brands have fallen in the last year – creating the so called ‘buyer’s market’ – they remain great long term investments. Moreover, the new releases enjoy sustained demand year after year.

The current downturn in the market presents an opportunity for change. This period of uncertainty has led to more informed decision-making, a focus on quality, and a more selective approach to the new releases.

The 2024 La Place de Bordeaux campaign is set to be a dynamic and expansive event, showcasing a diverse array of global wines alongside the region’s traditional offerings. Despite the current challenges, the long-term prospects for La Place are promising, with the potential for significant growth and continued evolution in the years to come.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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The best of Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

  • The best Bordeaux En Primeur releases offered a combination of quality and value. 
  • These are wines with high potential for future price appreciation.
  • Some châteaux have followed the En Primeur golden rule that the new release is the cheapest you can get. 

As this year’s Bordeaux En Primeur campaign draws to an end, we evaluate the best 2023 releases. These wines not only boast high quality, as measured by critic scores, but also offer value when compared to previous vintages. Below are our highlights from an investment perspective. 

Beychevelle 

Chateau Beychevelle En Primeur 2023

In the words of Château Beychevelle’s Philippe Blanc, ‘our golden rule is the En Primeur price is the cheapest you can get’. 

The rule was observed this year, with the 2023 representing the best priced vintage on the market today. 

The wine received 94-96 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous), who said: ‘Beychevelle remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Bordeaux. It is especially classy in this edition.’ 

Meanwhile, the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley (93-94 points) noted that ‘the 2023 Beychevelle has turned out especially well this year, exhibiting a more integrated, seductive style than recent vintages’.

Lafite Rothschild & Carruades de Lafite

Lafite Rothschild Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

For William Kelley, Lafite Rothschild appeared to be ‘the finest of the first growths this year’. The critic awarded it 97-99 points. The wine was launched at an impressive 32% discount on last year, making the new release the most affordable on the market today. Shortly after release, the wine found its way into the secondary market.

Carruades Lafite Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Its second wine also presented an enticing prospect to investors. As well as being the cheapest vintage, the wine was awarded a score of 91-93 from Neal Martin (Vinous), surpassing the 2022, 2016, and 2010. The critic remarked that this is ‘surely one of the best Carruades I have tasted at this stage’.

Mouton Rothschild & Petit Mouton

Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

In much the same vein as Lafite Rothschild, the 2023 Mouton Rothschild is the most affordable vintage available on the market today. Antonio Galloni gave it 96-99 points and declared that it ‘is shaping up to be one of the best wines of the vintage on the Left Bank’.

With 96-98 points from Neal Martin, its score looks set to match the 2022, 2020, 2019, and 2018. Only the 100-point 2016 has the upper hand but comes at a hefty 40% premium. 

Petit Mouton Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Once again, there is outstanding value to be found in the second wine. Petit Mouton 2023 is the best priced vintage available today by a healthy margin. And, according to Galloni, ‘it could easy be a Grand Vin at another address’.

Margaux

Chateau Margaux Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

The highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across major critics, Margaux presented great value.

Galloni awarded it a potentially perfect score of 97-100 points, calling it ‘fabulous, sensual, silky and exceptionally polished’. 

Meanwhile, Martin described it as a ‘quintessential Margaux’, awarding it a score of 97-99 points.

Cheval Blanc

Chateau Cheval Blanc Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

There are few wines that transcend the vintage in 2023, and Cheval Blanc is certainly one of them. 

There were few wines capable of transcending the vintage in 2023, but Cheval Blanc was certainly one of them.

It is the second-highest-scoring Bordeaux 2023 wine across 12 leading critics. Winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet even goes so far as to say that it is superior to the 2022, as does the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley. 

Adding to its appeal is the value it offers. The 2023 is the most affordable option among top vintages. This is one of only two unambiguously ‘prime’ Cheval Blanc vintages available under £5,000 a case.

As these highlights show, there is value to be found during En Primeur with the right analysis tools. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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What is En Primeur? A short guide for wine investors

  • En Primeur is a three-tier system, involving châteaux, négociants, and courtiers.
  • It allows buyers to purchase wines early, while they are still in barrel.
  • It provides an opportunity to secure allocations of highly sought-after wines that might appreciate in value when bottled.

En Primeur, also known as ‘wine futures’, is a practice rooted deeply in the traditions of the French wine market, particularly prominent in Bordeaux. This unique system allows investors and wine enthusiasts to purchase wines early, while they are still in the barrel, well before they are bottled and released on the general market. This method not only provides a fascinating glimpse into the future of wine investment but also plays a critical role in the financial ecosystem of wine production.

Historical context

The concept of En Primeur dates back over 60 years and has its origins in the post-World War II landscape. During this period, French wine producers faced significant financial challenges. To alleviate these pressures, influential wine merchants, known as négociants, began purchasing wine while it was still maturing in barrels. This arrangement allowed them to lock in supplies at a potentially lower cost and gave the châteaux much-needed cash flow to continue operations.

The En Primeur campaign

Traditionally, the En Primeur campaign kicks off in the spring following the harvest. Wine merchants and critics are invited to sample the young, unfinished wines, which are still in the process of aging. Based on these tastings, they make decisions about purchasing the wines, several years before the final product will be ready for consumption.

The price of the wines can be influenced by several factors, including the perceived quality of the latest vintage, historical brand positioning, critic scores, and market conditions. Once the wine is eventually bottled and ready, it is shipped to the buyers, typically between 18 and 24 months after the sale.

Advantages for investors

Investing in En Primeur can offer several benefits. Firstly, it provides an opportunity to secure allocations of highly sought-after wines, which might be difficult to obtain after release due to limited quantities and high demand. Moreover, purchasing wines at this early stage can be cost-effective, as prices for these wines might significantly increase by the time they reach the market, following bottling and release.

Historically, certain vintages have shown high returns. For instance, the 2008 vintage has risen 79% in value on average since release. Such potential for appreciation makes En Primeur an attractive option for investors looking to diversify their portfolios.

Risks and considerations

However, investing in En Primeur is not without risks. The market can be volatile, and there is no guarantee that purchased wines will increase in value. Recent campaigns have seen negative returns in some cases; for instance, the average price of the 2020 vintage is down 10% since release, of the 2017 – 13%. This means that the wines are now cheaper in the physical market.

Economic downturns, changes in consumer taste, and low critic scores can affect the investment’s outcome. Additionally, buyers commit capital upfront without a guarantee of the wine’s quality at bottling.

The cost of participation can also be a barrier. En Primeur often requires purchasing by the case, which can be prohibitive for smaller investors. Furthermore, there are storage costs to consider, as these wines often need to be aged further in suitable conditions before reaching their optimal drinking window, which can span from five to fifty years.

The global influence of Bordeaux En Primeur

Still, the attention that Bordeaux En Primeur commands, and on a global scale, remains unrivalled. No other region attracts the same level of hype among press and trade. This success has inspired similar practices in other wine regions worldwide, including Burgundy, the Rhône Valley, and even non-French regions such as Italy, Spain, and parts of the New World. These regions have adopted the En Primeur model to varying degrees of success, influenced by their specific market demands and the exclusivity of the wines offered.

For buyers to take fill advantage of En Primeur, keen understanding of the wine market and insight into vintage variations is required. As with any investment, potential investors should perform due diligence, consulting with experts and considering their financial position and investment strategy.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.