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Bordeaux En Primeur 2024: critic scores and best releases

  • There have been some notable releases in a quieter En Primeur campaign. 
  • All of the top releases have represented the best entry point into their respective brands in the last decade. 
  • Critics have emphasised selectivity in a challenging vintage.

One month in since the start of the Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur campaign, which seems to be nearing its end, we look at critic scores and price trends to evaluate the best releases.

What the critics are saying

After the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley called Bordeaux 2024 ‘the weakest vintage of the last decade’, other critics have echoed his concerns with greater nuance. 

For Jane Anson, ‘the vintage was better than expected […] and clearly better than, for example, 2013 – and 2021 in the best cases.’

Meanwhile, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) observed: ‘The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.’ His ‘magnificent eight’ were Beychevelle, Clos Puy Arnaud, Cos d’Estournel, Jean Faure, Larcis Ducasse, Lascombes, La Conseillante and Rauzan-Ségla.

Neal Martin concluded his report, arguing that 2024 is ‘the ideal vintage for a reset’. He noted that ‘given the obstacles placed along the growing season, any 2024 that scores above 90 points is a success’. Martin’s highest barrel range was 96-98 points for La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Among the reds, his top wines with 95-97 points were Lafite Rothschild, Trotanoy, Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan.

The state of the market

As Bordeaux continues to lose market share to other regions, and fine wine prices overall are in a correction phase, releasing En Primeur has only worked with heavy discounts. We spoke with leading producers on how they determine their release prices, with strategies ranging from consulting négociants  and importers, and weighing in volumes and vintage quality. 

In his report, Martin speaks of the following reality: ‘There is no saviour riding over the horizon, no emerging country of insatiable Bordeaux-lovers, all against a backdrop of a vine-pull scheme […] and the fact that Bordeaux is wrestling with an image crisis.’ 

The solution? He goes back to the beginning of his career, when ‘off-vintages in the mould of 2024 would be discounted, and […] nobody lost face, including the grandest châteaux, and crucially, it kept the primeur system flowing, bottles passing through the distribution chain to the all-important final consumer’.

Within this context, we look at the releases that have worked so far – where pricing has aligned with trade and consumer expectations, and has offered a window for long-term profitability. 

Best En Primeur releases to date

One of the standout releases of the campaign has been First Growth Château Lafite Rothschild.

The 2024 vintage emerged as the most attractively priced Lafite in recent memory. In fact, only one other vintage from the past 40 years comes within 25% of its release price. Even lower-rated vintages like 2013 and 2007 – both released before the transformative investments that elevated Lafite’s quality – now trade at considerably higher levels.

Much like Lafite, the 2024 Mouton Rothschild represents a rare opportunity. It is the best-priced Mouton vintage currently available on the market. Adjusted for inflation, only one other vintage in the last two decades compares in affordability. 

Moreover, Mouton has been the best-performing First Growth over the last five years, while also being Wine-Searcher’s most searched-for wine globally. 

History shows that these ‘less celebrated’ vintages often outperform their more hyped counterparts. For both Lafite and Mouton, vintages such as 2007, 2008, 2013, and 2014 have significantly outpaced the more acclaimed 2009, 2010, or 2016 in price performance.

Another notable performer is Calon Ségur. While it may have flown slightly under the radar, its 2024 release represents the best entry point into the brand in over a decade. Calon has built a strong reputation among critics, frequently earning 95+ scores from Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Its investment credentials are equally impressive: between 2015 and 2023, Calon prices surged more than 80%. Even with recent market dips, our Calon Ségur index remains 75% higher than it was ten years ago – making it one of Bordeaux’s most dynamic performers.

Looking for more? Read our Bordeaux Regional Report.

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Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines from the Southwold tasting

Southwold wine tasting
  • Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 from the annual Southwold tasting.
  • Martin placed the 2020 vintage ahead of the 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022.
  • With 99 points, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was Martin’s top-scoring wine. 

The annual Southwold tasting presents major critics with the opportunity to blind taste a Bordeaux vintage four years on in peer groups, mostly within appellations. 

Last week, Vinous published Neal Martin’s assessment of Bordeaux 2020 – a vintage ‘born in a tumultuous world,’ due to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, the critic argued that it bestowed ‘Bordeaux-lovers with a bevy of outstanding wines that should stand the test of time.’ 

Neal Martin’s thoughts on Bordeaux 2020

Martin described the dry whites as a ‘little hit-and-miss’ and the Sauternes as ‘very good rather than excellent.’ When it comes to the reds, however, the critic said that they ‘are going to give a great deal of pleasure.’

In terms of vintage comparisons, Martin placed 2020 ahead of 2018 but behind 2019 and 2022, which were more ‘crammed with legends in the making’. He wrote: ‘Perhaps 2020 doesn’t quite possess the vaulting ambition of those two vintages, though in some cases, it surpasses the best of both.’

His favourite appellation was Saint-Julien, which ‘raised the bar with a cluster of outstanding wines.’ The critic argued that this flight ‘solidified 2020 as a bona fide great vintage on the Left Bank.’ He described Margaux as ‘solid,’ with the ‘real superstar’ being the First Growth.

From Saint-Estèphe, Martin highlighted Montrose as ‘the standout of the appellation,’ with the biggest surprise being the 2020 Phélan Ségur, ‘one of the best values given its reasonable price.’

Neal Martin’s top-scoring Bordeaux 2020 wines

Due to the nature of the Southwold blind tasting – wines grouped by appellation – Martin’s scores were ‘a little lower than when [he] encountered these wines at the end of 2022’.

His top-scoring wine, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, received 99 points. He described it as ‘a fabulous Pauillac that flirts with perfection.’ 

The rest of the wines in the top ten received 98 points. The highest-scored First Growth was Margaux, which the critic claimed was ‘among the greatest wines of the 2020 vintage.’ The ‘captivating’ and ‘mesmerising’ Cheval Blanc also scored among the best wines from the vintage. So did Trotanoy (‘an outstanding Pomerol’), and Canon (‘God made wine so it can taste as good as this’).

Investing in Bordeaux 2020

All of Martin’s top 2020 wines have fallen in value since release, apart from Trotanoy. 

This is partly because of the overall market direction in the last two years, but also due to the availability of older and in some cases higher-rated vintages available at a discount.

As Martin rightly noted, ‘the top wines in this report not only compete against each other, but also with themselves in terms of alternative available vintages.’

The lower-than-average prices at the moment, however, present great buying opportunities, especially for brands with a positive long-term performance. 

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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James Suckling’s top wines of 2024

James Suckling 2024 top wine Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
  • American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list.
  • His wine of the year is Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015. 
  • Italy dominates the rankings followed by France and the US.

American critic James Suckling has released his top 100 wines of 2024 list, along with his wine of the year. The highest accolade went to Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015, which according to the critic, is a classical wine that embodies ‘the greatness of time and place’.

Regional distribution

Suckling and his team tasted and rated over 40,000 different wines over the past twelve months. The majority were from Italy, which accounted for over 9,100 of the reviewed wines, followed closely by France with 9,000, the US with 6,800, Spain – 3,800, Argentina – 2,300, Germany – 2,000, Australia – 1,700, and Chile nearly 1,550. They also tasted wines from other regions worldwide including Greece, Hungary, Canada and Uruguay.

Italy also dominated the list of their favourites, featuring with 26 wines in the top 100, followed by France (18), the United States (15), Germany (12), Argentina (6), Spain (6), Chile (6), Australia (5), Austria (4), South Africa (1) and China (1).

Suckling’s top 10 wines of 2024

James Suckling’s wine of the year is the 2015 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, which he described as ‘full-bodied and elegant on the palate due to ripe, filigree tannins with long acidity and a toasty, savory aftertaste’. He called it ‘one of the great Amarones’ and gave it a 100-point score.

James Suckling top wine scores 2024

The top wines of the year were chosen on the basis of quality, price, and what Suckling calls the “wow factor,” an emotional impact a wine can have on the drinker. Most wines on the list scored between 97 and 100 points, with nine wines priced between $30 and $60 (£23 and £46), emphasising affordability alongside quality. Wines on the list were required to have a minimum production of 5,000 bottles, with a median price below $500 (£385).

Regional standouts

Germany had a standout year in 2023, particularly for its dry Riesling, with the Künstler Riesling Rheingau Hölle GG 2023 ranking second on the list and exemplifying the structured, balanced nature of this vintage.

Austria continued to gain critical recognition, especially for its white wines, with F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Kellerberg 2023 taking the third spot. 

China was also present on the list with Ao Yun Shangri-La 2020, a wine from Moët Hennessy’s Yunnan winery, signaling the country’s growing role in the fine wine market.

Accessibility and value

Suckling noted that many of his favourite wines offer high quality at accessible price points. The focus on value addresses current concerns about the market’s downturn. For example, the wine that took the second spot is priced around $65 (£50), while Italian whites such as the Manincor Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige Tannenberg 2022 are available for approximately $40 (£31).

Emerging trends

Suckling’s report further highlights an increasing interest in German and Austrian wines, especially among younger consumers, due to their quality and value. Events like Suckling’s Great Wines series, held across major cities globally, have drawn over 21,000 attendees this year. With wines from more established to emerging wine regions, Suckling’s 2024 list provides a guide to the critic’s top picks from across the globe.

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.

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Finding value in the Bordeaux second wines

Lafite Rothschild
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  • The average First Growth case price is £5,300, while second wines come in at £1,941.
  • Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is the most affordable second wine.
  • Le Petit Mouton has been the best performer over the last decade.

Following our article last week, which examined the performance and value of the Bordeaux First Growths, we take a look at the data behind their second wines.

What are second wines?

Most Bordeaux châteaux produce more than one wine each vintage, and some might make three or four. Each château’s second wine draws on the expertise and knowledge that goes into the Grand Vin. Generally, second wines are made with fruit from younger vines, or vines and parcels that are not quite up to the quality of the Grand Vin in any given year.

However, they are often produced using grapes from the same vineyards as the flagship wines, receiving the same technical treatment in both vineyard and winery. Considerably less expensive than their siblings,  second wines represent a particularly attractive and accessible option for investors.

Second wines – at what price?

Second wines prices and scores

White the average First Growth case price is £5,300, second wines come in at less than half the price (£1,941).

Interestingly, prices of the first and the second wine are not always rising in unison. For instance, Château Latour is the second most expensive Grand Vin after Château Lafite Rothschild. Les Forts de Latour, however, sits directly in the middle, with Le Petit Mouton and Carruades de Lafite being pricier.

When it comes to value for money, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has the lowest price per point of £16, similar to its Grand Vin. As examined last week, Château Haut-Brion is the most affordable of the First Growths, while also boasting the highest average Wine Track score. Yet while Le Clarence is also the most affordable of the second wines, its Wine Track score is lower.

But looking purely at scores is not the best indicator of value when it comes to the second wines. Second wines differ from the Grand Vins, as the dominant relationship is between price and age, not price and quality. As time passes, their value rises, following the traditional wine investment dynamic.

Moreover, this group of wines is often bought by collectors and investors as they present access to a brand. Though suitable for aging, these wines are built for earlier consumption, offering an alternative to opening bottles of the Grand Vin as soon as they are delivered.

Performance of the second wines

In the last decade, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild has been the best-performing second wine, up 111.9%.

The most affordable, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, has delivered the second-best returns of 76.2%. It has been followed by Carruades de Lafite (64.7%) and Pavillon Rouge (63.1%).

Second wines performance

WineCap’s independent market analysis showcases the value of portfolio diversification and the stability offered by investing in wine. Speak to one of our wine investment experts and start building your portfolio. Schedule your free consultation today.